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Compact Table Top Drill Press Recommendations

MDSPHOTO

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Nov 10, 2011
Messages
2,396
Location
Oz
Looking for recommendations for a compact table top drill press. My primary use will be for reaming golf clubs using the jig shown in the attached image. My workshop has a low sloped ceiling so my max height is around 28" from the bench, so that I can switch the belts around when needed. I looked at the HF ones, but there are as many bad reviews as there are good ones. Would like new or used recommendations under $500, if possible.

As always, thanks for the expert advice.
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PBCampbell

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Feb 2, 2009
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WV
Reaming Golf club heads (smh). I have to think you intend to start up a business and if so you'll need to step up your budget. By the way the price for that jig seems ridiculous. Bench top Drill presses are going to spin too fast I think for a tapered reamer. I'd guess you need to be looking at a small machinist mill, which would still be too tall most likely for your space. what does your Pro shop have for this?
Maybe post up some specs on the reamer, operational rpm's, tapered or straight. What are the clubs made of? There are some machinist's that post here who could offer some better advice than I.
 

RoninB4

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Looking for recommendations for a compact table top drill press.
-What have you been looking at so far besides Horrible Freight? Is there anything in your area location?

Where is OZ?

Will you be using a tapered or straight reamer? Taper reamers behave differently than straight reamers in that the entire flute is engaged per the depth. Straight reamers have back clearance so only the tip is engaged in cutting. With either you'll want a drill press that spins slower than what most drill press speeds are and can absorb the vibration that will likely be present. You haven't stated the target RPM, material being cut, or the size of the hole so I can't compute the RPM you'll need. Carbide can spin/cut at faster speeds but can also be susceptible to excessive chatter from a less than rigid machine spindle. This can micro-fracture the cutting edges enough to ruin it.

What do I recommend? Nothing brand new that $500 will get you unless you know what reamer would be best (spiral, reverse spiral, or straight?) and how to compensate for the inadequacies of a brand new $500 Chinese made drill press. An older drill press with more mass than the one in the photo will be a better candidate, so would a small tabletop mill if there's enough spindle travel. However, even a small mill having more mass will likely not be perpendicular to the table in one or more axis. This will require tramming the head and most small mills can only be squared in one axis, leaving the other out of square. How square (perpendicular) do you want this to be? If it's slightly off will your customers be happy with this?

I'm not trying to be a jerk here. I'm trying to caution you against spending a lot of money and not getting something that will get the job done with a minimum of fuss. To give good advice you need to provide some answers to ALL the questions I've asked because all the answers make a difference whether you know this or not. It's ok not to know everything I've asked, just post what you do/don't know and what your research has told you.
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
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7,380
Location
Spokane, WA
No idea what is readily available in OZ.

IMHO, the best small benchtop DP ever is the old Delta Homecraft 11" #645. It is twice the machine of today's Chicom big box offerings. I've been using one in my basement shop for fifty years and it's still like new. I just measured and it's 33" tall. The head can be lowered on the column or the column could be shortened as required

If precise speed control is important, a VFD would be my choice.

jack vines
 

MattGarage

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Joined
Mar 14, 2023
Messages
185
Location
So Cal
That's not a drill press.

This is a drill press.

With apologies but you know the Aussie has to receive some Crocodile Dundee flak


big-press-jpg.jpg
 
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M

MDSPHOTO

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
2,396
Location
Oz
Reaming Golf club heads (smh). I have to think you intend to start up a business and if so you'll need to step up your budget. By the way the price for that jig seems ridiculous. Bench top Drill presses are going to spin too fast I think for a tapered reamer. I'd guess you need to be looking at a small machinist mill, which would still be too tall most likely for your space. what does your Pro shop have for this?
Maybe post up some specs on the reamer, operational rpm's, tapered or straight. What are the clubs made of? There are some machinist's that post here who could offer some better advice than I.
Actually, we've been in business for 6 years and have a fully functional shop with all the equipment except a drill press.
 
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M

MDSPHOTO

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
2,396
Location
Oz
-What have you been looking at so far besides Horrible Freight? Is there anything in your area location?

Where is OZ?

Will you be using a tapered or straight reamer? Taper reamers behave differently than straight reamers in that the entire flute is engaged per the depth. Straight reamers have back clearance so only the tip is engaged in cutting. With either you'll want a drill press that spins slower than what most drill press speeds are and can absorb the vibration that will likely be present. You haven't stated the target RPM, material being cut, or the size of the hole so I can't compute the RPM you'll need. Carbide can spin/cut at faster speeds but can also be susceptible to excessive chatter from a less than rigid machine spindle. This can micro-fracture the cutting edges enough to ruin it.

What do I recommend? Nothing brand new that $500 will get you unless you know what reamer would be best (spiral, reverse spiral, or straight?) and how to compensate for the inadequacies of a brand new $500 Chinese made drill press. An older drill press with more mass than the one in the photo will be a better candidate, so would a small tabletop mill if there's enough spindle travel. However, even a small mill having more mass will likely not be perpendicular to the table in one or more axis. This will require tramming the head and most small mills can only be squared in one axis, leaving the other out of square. How square (perpendicular) do you want this to be? If it's slightly off will your customers be happy with this?

I'm not trying to be a jerk here. I'm trying to caution you against spending a lot of money and not getting something that will get the job done with a minimum of fuss. To give good advice you need to provide some answers to ALL the questions I've asked because all the answers make a difference whether you know this or not. It's ok not to know everything I've asked, just post what you do/don't know and what your research has told you.
Looked at HD & Lowes and scouted CL & FB marketplace, but don't know what brands to avoid or investigate. We now reside in central Georgia. Not sure which style the golf club reamers fall into, but the majority of operation will be boring out hosels from .355 to .370. Most golf clubs are steel, but will sometimes need to drill out broken shafts, both steel & graphite. I dont know of any pro shops that use mills, most have a drill press to complete these tasks.
 
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rancherbill

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Oct 18, 2007
Messages
5,334
Location
Foothills County, Alberta, Canada
I bought a used Taiwan drill press that had a hard life in a cabinet shop. I put new bearings in the column, replaced the v-belts with link-belt and got a high quality chuck. It is now really good to use. There are no vibrations and the holes are perfect. The initial price was cheap maybe $100 and the upgrade parts were $120 ( most was the chuck)


It is better that anything in a big box store. It is better than what you will find in most stores for commercial trades.
 

Ricky Joe

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Sep 15, 2013
Messages
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Roanoke, Va.
This might be a good choice. 30” from the base to the top of the spindle. It is a Rockwell.
 

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uart

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Nov 17, 2011
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Australia
Where is OZ?
Yeah, I was thinking Australia. We often write Oz as like phonetic for the Aus in Aussie, but we definitely don't have any Harbor Freight stores here.

We now reside in central Georgia. Not sure which style the golf club reamers fall into, but the majority of operation will be boring out hosels from .355 to .370.
So can we assume that you'll be using something like the following:
reamer golf club.jpg

I've not done a lot of reaming, and only by hand, so not an expert here, but I'm pretty sure that low operating speed would be a feature that you want to look for. Low cost 12 speed presses can often get down to around 250 RPM or so. Hopefully some others here can give you an idea of what machining speed you should be looking at with the type of reamer shown above.
 
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RoninB4

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Jul 22, 2020
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Actually, we've been in business for 6 years and have a fully functional shop with all the equipment except a drill press.
-Not sure what "fully functional" means, perhaps functional enough to work on golf clubs. What I'd suggest will depend upon the level of work you want to set for your customers. If you want to offer garage hobby shop level of service that's one level. Offering a professional level of service to expensive clubs dictates another level of service. Not knowing your clientele, I can't estimate what their expectations would be. Were it me or a semi-professional golfer, if I saw somebody attempting to work on an expensive club head with a drill press I'd brand them as hacks. That's what some of the pro shops use? That's because they're hacks with machines that don't know any better. There are a lot of people that think they're machinists just because they're not bleeding at the end of the day. I'm not the last word on machining but do have 35+ years of shop and design experience. I'm not advocating a spending spree, I'm trying to get a good understanding of your operation so I can give you proper advice. No point in going butterfly hunting with a mallet any more than using amateur methods for professional grade workmanship.

Looked at HD & Lowes and scouted CL & FB marketplace, but don't know what brands to avoid or investigate. We now reside in central Georgia.
-That's ok to view what's readily available but HD & Lowe's only carry light duty, low quality drill presses. I looked at several models (4) on their website and think none of them are what I'd use for reaming an expensive part. Since you're now in Georgia (you should have stated this earlier) there are likely greater options than OZ. CL and FB are good to keep checking but there are machinery dealers that carry used industrial grade machinery that's still in good condition, none of my machinery was purchased new. Sometimes you have to look for a few weeks and be willing to drive an hour or two to get it.
Not sure which style the golf club reamers fall into,
-The type of reamer is all about what type of hole needed to fit the replacement shaft to. Is the end of the shaft (that goes into the club head) a tapered fit or is it a constant diameter? What type of hole do you need for fitment? Are you altering the replacement shaft to fit the club head or altering the club head to fit the shaft?
but the majority of operation will be boring out hosels from .355 to .370.
-Not to be overly critical here but boring is a different type of operation than merely drilling/reaming. Drilling means lining up the prospective hole location and having a go at it. The drill can wander, deflect, and end up off location from where you intended it to be. This is especially true if the hole has a broken shaft still in the hole, the hole isn't exactly aligned (critical process) with the drill axis, or there's trouble with cutting the club head material. Under certain conditions you can drill a hole out of center or end up breaking out the side of the club. Both will be noticeable to the customer. A reamer will tend to follow the hole even if it's off location. That's just the nature of drilling regardless of what anybody says. The fixture for holding the club head also makes a difference but that's a different discussion. The unguided fixture in the photo is questionable and may not produce the results you want. Under some circumstances I can see it failing you and ruining the club head.

Boring uses a different method, usually a single cutting edge tool is used instead of a drill bit. It will make an exact hole size exactly where you decide it should be. It doesn't deflect or wander like a drill bit, gives more accurate results, but is a more involved method. Both methods are appropriate, you have to know when to use which one for good results.

I'll say it again, light duty hobby shop equipment can produce decent results if you know how to compensate for the inadequacies of the equipment. You also stand a chance or ruining expensive club heads now and then by using hobby grade equipment. Just because some of the Pro shops use hobby grade equipment doesn't mean they're producing professional results. None of the pro shops use a mill because they probably don't know how to use one. Your expectations for the type of business you want to run are entirely up to you. Expensive equipment doesn't guarantee professional results either. Spend time to understand the process before you spend your money. Want more details? Post more details. Have questions? Ask questions.
 
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flippin

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May 24, 2010
Messages
740
Location
Montreal - Ottawa
Don't let the overall height be a big concern. Cutting the main column to height can be done. I have the same issue and have cut down both of my drill presses to fit under a shelf.
 
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