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Completed Epoxy Project

woodee

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Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Messages
86
Location
Illinois
I hope this helps someone else who is researching flooring options and can learn from my mistakes when applying epoxy: I'll post these in sections to make it easier to read.

I purchased my home with a 680 sq ft garage a few months ago and one of the first things I did was buy epoxy from Daich Coatings (a Canadian company). I had purchased direct from Daich because I used their Rollerock product on my outdoor patio at the previous home and was very impressed with it and I was already aware of the poor reputation of big box store products. The Daich Daihard 100 (also called Beauti-Tone 100 in Canada) is a 100% solids kit and is very reasonably priced. Each kit comes with an etching powder, 2 part product mix for up to 250 sq ft, flakes, and paint stick. I ordered 4 kits since I planned on doing my stem walls and garage steps.

While waiting for the weather to change, I began researching how best to apply epoxy and came across this site. Had I known then what I know now I probably would have just bought a full inclusive kit from one of the vendors here given the known reputations and the follow up support of the products.
I did learn however the importance of grinding over etching, use of a primer, and why it’s a good idea to use a UV topcoat. Daich did not recommend a primer as they state their product is self-priming and said a topcoat was unnecessary for most residential uses. Still I ended up ordering Devoe WB primer and the Norkan HPU 747 urethane topcoat. Yes…I mixed manufacturers. After all this, I later found out Daich does make a water based primer, urethane coating, polyaspartic coating, and even has some optional colors and chips. You just have to go to the commercial version of the website and select heavy duty use. https://www.daichcoatings.com/industrial-floor-coatings.html

I knew I wanted some flake on the floor, but I didn’t like the blue/black/white flake that came with my kits, so I ordered 10 lbs. of 1/8” gray/white flakes. I wanted to make sure I spread out the flakes as equally as possible for uniformity so I assigned each square on the slab with a number with painters tape on the wall, marked the flake buckets with their corresponding number, and divided the flakes based on the percentage of square footage.
 
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woodee

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Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Messages
86
Location
Illinois
My first job was to repair the one medium size crack (about 1/16” wide and 2 feet long), and the few hairline cracks around the perimeter. I used the Rustoleum repair kit to fill those and it was very easy for the minor amount of work I had to do.

There are only a couple rental places in my area that rent grinders (none of the local big box) so pricing was a little high. I was able to rent a Husqvarna P280 with inserts and the attached vacuum system for about $260 over a weekend. At first I was extremely frustrated with the grinder, as each time I turned it on, it would only last 2 minutes before popping my circuit breaker. I finally figured out if I started it while lifted off the floor and let it get up to speed before slowly engaging the floor it worked just fine. The resistance from a dead start was causing the issue (hope this helps someone else). Also I recommend using a heavy gauge extension cord (I used a 12/3 cord).

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The grinding looked good and the attached vacuum did an awesome job of collecting the dust, or at least keeping it from going airborne. I also used a 4 inch cup to grind the steps and perimeter. Wow did that make a dusty mess!!! It was only then I realized how well the rental vac did at collecting the dust (definitely worth it).

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After grinding I vacuumed the floor using the rental vac floor attachment, but there was still a fine layer left behind so I began mopping. Apparently there was too much dust left for the mop, so I had to get out the hose and that seemed to finally get most of it. I began noticing numerous tiny pit holes from the aggregate and my OCD made me fill those in with the epoxy filler (see my other crazy thread).

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I did another rinse, this time using my pressure washer. I also noticed there were some random areas that the grinder did not seem to really get to (low spots). I decided just to be safe and use some etching solution and deck brushed the floor. Another pressure wash rinse and more tiny holes to fill. Meanwhile I kept watching the forecast for temperature, rain, humidity and wind speed/direction (I live next to an open field so west winds can cause dust to blow in my garage). Everything was aligning...or so I thought.

After 24 hours I gave it another dry mopping to pick up any other dust residue and waited another 24 house before sweeping one last time and taping the walls/doorways.
 
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woodee

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Jan 19, 2019
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Illinois
The primer was tinted a very light gray so it was very easy to see. I only primed the floor and left the stem walls bare since I didn’t know how far the product would have gone. Good thing too, because I ended up using all of it. The primer showed the scarring I left when I grinded and the small holes I didn’t patch also began to appear, but otherwise it almost looked good as a finish coat.

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woodee

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Jan 19, 2019
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Illinois
After drying for about 6 hours I was ready to apply my epoxy coat. I had 4 cans of the Daich product which “should” cover up to 1,000 square feet. Given that I only had just under 700 sq ft, I felt confident in my plan to apply the epoxy to the stem walls first.
First I mixed all 4 cans of part A in a 5 gallon bucket and mixed them with a drill mixer to make sure the color was uniform. Then I poured the Part B into a gallon mixing bucket, before adding ¾ gal of the premixed Part A. I hand stirred the mixture for a few minutes and began using a 3 inch brush and 3 inch roller to cover the stem walls.
After the stem walls I had at least ½ gallon of he first mix remaining so I started my first square. I poured out the mix, spread with the squeegee, and backrolled using crosshatching, before adding the flakes. I redid this process for all 7 “squares” on the slab, mixing new 1 gal buckets as needed until I was done (about 2 hours by myself). I had just enough product to finish with no extra.

I was hoping the epoxy would be dried to start the topcoat by 12 hours….but…as I approached the 24 hour mark, one half of the floor was still tacky and I began finding “soft” spots in other areas of the garage. I waited, and waited, and waited, after a few days I came to the conclusion something had gone terribly wrong. 90-95% of the floor was cured and looked great, but there remained several wet and/or tacky areas.

Apparently in my efforts to not create bubbles in mixing, my hand stirring didn’t sufficiently mix the product. Additionally I made the mistake of trying to get all of the product out of the bucket (I should have read the fine print). Daich was good about it and sent 4 more kits at cost and free shipping. The good news is that while waiting for the replacement product to arrive I did get the walls painted.
 
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woodee

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Illinois
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In the mean time I spent the next couple of weeks, scraping, scraping, scraping, scraping. Every time I thought I got all the spots I would find another. The uncured areas were typically the consistency of chewing gum, which made it even harder to remove, even with a couple of scrapers as they would gum up. I did find that using the scrapers in combinations with Xylol and denatured alcohol to wipe the spots worked best, and it allowed the remaining material surrounding the spots to finally dry out and cure. However, in some areas the scraping created “divots” in the epoxy surface that I hoped would eventually be smoothed out with sanding.

GALLERY]


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woodee

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Jan 19, 2019
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Illinois
After scraping, I rented a floor scrubber from Menards and bought a box of 100 grit sanding discs from Amazon. The cured epoxy was tough as nails. Even after sanding for over 3 hours it really held its shine. But after 2 full solvent wipes with a microfiber mop and denatured alcohol it was dull and finally prepped enough for the new topcoat.
Now my problem was weather. Every day of the 10 day forecast was 90+ degrees with chance of rainstorms, and the evenings dropped to low 70’s with 90%+ humidity. Given that it was the middle of Summer, I knew it would remain that way for several more weeks. I had half the garage scattered about our house so my wife would have killed me if I waited another month!

SO I picked the best 3 day forecast I could and went for it. This time I used the double bucket method (triple bucket counting resin mixture), and used a drill mixer at each stage, changing out paddles I know it was overkill but I did not want to do this again). Application went smooth but the product goes on thick which makes it harder to spread evenly with a notched squeegee. I also only used about 4 lbs. of the 1/8” flakes this time (10 lbs was heavy coverage and I wanted it closer to medium coverage). I left the garage cracked overnight and ran the risk of rain getting in, which it did but only after it was already cured (whew!). By morning the epoxy looked perfect, almost like glass and it leveled most of the low areas from scraping the first coating.

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woodee

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Jan 19, 2019
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86
Location
Illinois
After about 24 hours, I applied the HPU 747 with Shark Grip even though there was potential for rain again (which of course it did while I was ¾ of the way through the application). At this point I didn’t care if it resulted in a cloudy appearance as long as it cured hard. The good news was, the brief rain and subsequent humidity didn’t really affect the curing process and it was glossy and dry to the touch by 4 hours and looked good by morning.

The Shark grip really does add a lot of texture, but it takes away the shiny, glassy, smooth finish. I had to weigh the benefits of a fancy shiny floor versus dislocating my knee again by walking on slick wet surfaces.

I added some ¼” backer rod to the control joints, taped, and filled the with Sikaflex to keep out the crud.

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woodee

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Jan 19, 2019
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Location
Illinois
The end result was exactly what I wanted, even if it took an extra 4 weeks and cost more money because of my mistake. Thanks to everyone here who provided advice on doing the repair and application process!

Final thoughts:
• The Daich coatings are very reasonably priced for a 100% solids. The only thing I don’t like is that they almost discourage grinding, priming, or adding a topcoat for residential uses. Based on how hard it was for me to sand the finish the first time, I think it will be VERY durable.
• The amount of coverage they quote is probably for the thinnest possible layer. I ordered enough for up to 1000 sq ft and I still had to stretch it a bit. I was VERY glad I used primer first.
• To flake or not to flake? GO FLAKES! I wanted something subtle and went with the gray/white smaller 1/8” flakes and it was perfect for me. The smaller flakes do seem to float and pool together during the curing process so it is probably best as either a full coverage, or light to medium coverage.
• I mixed manufacturers and it turned out ok, but I don’t think I would risk doing that again.
• I know others have had issues with the Color Chips/Norkan HPU 747, but I think it turned out great, despite a few visible roller marks.

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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
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Central Maine
Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm sure it will be helpful to others. Congrats on your new floor. It really does look great.
 

Arkive

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Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
46
Location
Attached 3-car (1400 sqft)
I'm closing in on my DIY epoxy job and this post was extremely thorough and helpful. Thanks, and great floor. I'm quite envious, mostly of the fact that you're done :)
 

cash68

Keeper Of Rotor Hill
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
979
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Only thing I would add is to use a dehumidifier before putting the coats down, AFTER mopping. I know you 'let it dry a few days', but imho using machines that are literally designed to make things as dry as possible helps a lot.
 

Vdrsnk

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Illinois
That looks great! You had a lot of hard work in there, but the end result sure looks like it was well worth it. I really like the flake choice you made. I am currently trying to decide on colors for my floors.
 

san-bruno-garage

New member
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Jun 23, 2020
Messages
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Location
Quebec
I know this is an older post, but thanks for the writeup, this is helping a lot for a similar project of my own. I had a couple questions:

I made the mistake of trying to get all of the product out of the bucket (I should have read the fine print)

Do you mean that when pouring the product, you shouldn't pour it all? I'm not sure what's wrong with trying to get it all out of the bucket.

This time I used the double bucket method (triple bucket counting resin mixture)

Do you mean that you just mixed one "kit" (Part A + Part B) at a time and poured them individually instead of premixing all "Part A"s?

Not sure if you still visit this forum to answer these questions, but thanks nonetheless!
 

spectrum1c

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Joined
Nov 19, 2016
Messages
26
Wow, thanks for the great write-up!

Also curious on what you mean by not pouring out all the product out of the bucket?
 
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