composite steel decking

[wssix99]

^ That looks great. A few things to plan for as you get ready to build the cross section:

- Bearing area of the steel on the concrete core will be critical, so you may have to work around the vertical rebar that would keep you from getting that bearing.
- The first set of blocks you pour on top of the slab are challenging and will be difficult (just like the first course you put on the foundation) and I imagine they will have to be well glued. I expect Amvic will tell you to put tape over the block edges to keep spatter from spoiling the "lego" nubs, but floating the floor could also mess them up; causing a problem for putting that critical first course of block down. From my experience, I'd suggest getting some sacrificial "Height Adjusters" to put on the nubs to not only protect them from splatter but physical damage during placing and floating of the floor.
- You won't get the bearing of the steel decking perfectly flat. We were able to float these areas (for us - it was where our wood floor trusses sat on ledges) to within 1/4" of each other. At first, I thought this would be a problem for your application but now that I think about it - I guess not. Even if you get a little bit of wave in the steel deck, you'll just make up for it when you float the floor! (I went to an area of the house where we don't have any ceiling to take a picture of the ledge and show the shimming we had to do to illustrate this but... it turns out this are is one of the areas we got perfect and we have no shims!)


The area where I think you'll be pioneering here is blocking under the steel deck before your floor pour. You'll need to put foam blocks under the ridges in the steel so that the concrete you pour in to the wall cavity at the edges of the floor doesn't flow back under the steel and in to the space below. I would think spray foam would be too messy and hard to control (it could take up structural space underneath the floor, also) but if you could cut trapezoidal blocks and glue them in, that might be the easiest way. If you take a piece of decking (making a cutting tool) and heat it up with a torch, you may even be able to use it like a heat knife to cut perfect sections of Styrofoam for the blocking.

 

[Firebrick43]

Didn't realize there was height adjusters but went and looked and they do offer them. Don't know if they have them for the for the newer 3.30 forms however but we will see when I talk to my builder next week.

The deck manufacture has steel angle to keep concrete from going under the deck. They also offer a foam rubber piece that is the shape of the corrugations but the salesman referred to it as birdstop and didn't seam to keen for recommending it to retain the hydraulic pressure of the concrete. The engineer was I concerned about concrete making it under those two inches horizontally as it will be a cold joint anyways and the rebar L's on 1' centers and vertical rebar are what matters to tie everything together. He seemed perfectly content with spray foam. A few test sprays should tell me if I am adding to little or much.

A cold chisel could easily lop off any that peeks out from under the corrugations.

I thought about cutting in the shape but quickly discounted that as I have had to match similar shapes in past fabrications at work and found it very frustrating in the accuracy needed let lone over 100' of wall.

On a further note, excavation is the begin the 19th. I will strip the top soil this week

 

[wssix99]

Didn't realize there was height adjusters but went and looked and they do offer them. Don't know if they have them for the for the newer 3.30 forms however but we will see when I talk to my builder next week.

We found these very versatile and used them for a ton of off-label purposes. Our mason orders a big bundle for every project just to have them around - just in case.

Even if they don't match your updated insulation, the old-style parts should still lock in to your nubs, so you can still make use of the plain height adjusters for construction purposes.

The deck manufacture has steel angle to keep concrete from going under the deck. They also offer a foam rubber piece that is the shape of the corrugations but the salesman referred to it as birdstop and didn't seam to keen for recommending it to retain the hydraulic pressure of the concrete. The engineer was I concerned about concrete making it under those two inches horizontally as it will be a cold joint anyways and the rebar L's on 1' centers and vertical rebar are what matters to tie everything together. He seemed perfectly content with spray foam. A few test sprays should tell me if I am adding to little or much.

That's great. The rubber would probably hold if it's thick enough and if the spray foam adheres to it. (That's probably the big challenge.)

Foam-only should work, although you'll need to get a good technique down do you don't end up thin at the edges and poofy in the middle.

A cold chisel could easily lop off any that peeks out from under the corrugations.

I totally forgot that a heat knife with a straight edge would trim this stuff up perfectly along the deck edge after it cures.

... I feel a tool purchase coming on!!! You will definitely need your own heat knife package, even if your contractor comes with one. It's a must-have for any ICF building owner and will become a maintenance tool at some point. These take some lead time to get and most places gouge you on the price.

I found that this place had the best place on the Wind-Lock knife kit I wanted and then I found some other accessories at other places for better prices. (like long lengths of heating element that I could custom bend blades out of) http://store.buildblock.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=539AD76564A541D588AA9239FFF75D0B

On a further note, excavation is the begin the 19th. I will strip the top soil this week

Good luck. I wish you a smooth dig!

 

[Firebrick43]

Did you hot knife all the wiring in? I was thinking of using an electric chainsaw as many do. May just use the stihl, but my mom may not like the smell of 2 stroke exhaust as much as I do.

 

[wssix99]

Did you hot knife all the wiring in?

Oh, yes. Although our electrician used the knife mostly. They had a ball with it and thought it was the neatest thing! (I did all of the low voltage and used it for that.) I also used the knife for a lot of the custom ICF block work we did. (We had to make some custom profiles for curved wall brick ledge block, etc. and other things that don't come from the manufacturer.)

I was thinking of using an electric chainsaw as many do. May just use the stihl, but my mom may not like the smell of 2 stroke exhaust as much as I do.

I've never heard of this. While it may build your future skills as an ice sculptor, I would go with the heat knife - you can dial in the temperature and bend the elements to make it a precision/surgical instrument and preserve as much insulation in the wall as possible.

^ We also have to run conduit and use metal boxes here, so the precision is also necessary to support that. I imagine you'd also want that for setting your boxes. You'll want to make sure the foam between them and the concrete core is precise. (I can't imagine doing the electrical boxes with any type of saw.)

 

[Firebrick43]

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Footers done!! Mountain of dirt in the front yard. Been installing sump pit and two quad axles of number 8's, probably need a third

 

[Firebrick43]

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Pumping the basement walls

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After the walls are done

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One piece 49' beam just set in place, like a glove. The excavator operator was really good.

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This is a beam and legs for around the stair opening. Welded it up today. Sort of tricky to carry around by the old 2020 John deere. Since the excavator is gone had to use the tractor to set it in the hole. careful planing paid off and it went into the base ment without a hitch, well except I ran the tractor out of gas while I had 4' left to lower with the come along. But I got it off before the loader drifted down to much. One can see the steel deck pan of to the left. It was delivered the other day and will start being put in place as soon as this beam gets welded to the main beam.

 

[wssix99]

Very nice!!! How did your beam pockets go? (For the steel beam.)

How did you end up attaching that beam to the wall? I see that you formed out the beam pockets during your pour. Do they sit on a plate or does it just bear on the concrete?

 

[readhead]

If the deck is cut within 1/2" or so no stop is necessary. Notching the deck with a torch for the rebar is fast and easy. After the deck is in place stuff fiberglass insulation in the gaps under the deck. As you know it doesn't take much to stop the flow of mud.

No caps on the rebar? That one is personal for me since I was on a job where a coworker died when he fell on a piece of bar.

 

[Firebrick43]

Beam pocket went great. Cast it 3/4 deeper than needed and bolted 5/8" all thread to the form. Sort of a pain to rip the forms out but the were well formed with no voids. I was anticipating shims but a 3/4" plate worked well. The beam fit perfectly, one piece of the all thread had been displaced slightly and had to be bent straight about a 1/4". Floor guy kept looking at my walls and said they had never seen icfs nor many formed walls so straight without bulges. They had mostly seen fox blocks with homemade bracing however. As a plus they have done composite decks in commercial construction in the past and didn't bat an eye at doing the pour for me. Many contractors here don't know what I am even talking about

Redhead. I am very aware of the rebar and its dangers. Remember however it's impossible to get to the top of the wall at this point. As the deck goes on what verticals that don't get bent will get a cap

 

[Firebrick43]

Sorry for cutting my reply short, helper showed up to help move the stair opening beam.

Thanks for the fiberglass idea. Originally was think of expanding foam but the idea of holding it together and the mess if it over expanded was worrying me.

Was going to notch with my fathers old stihl demo saw(which he graciously permanently loaned me) but I have a torch as well.

 

[readhead]

Are you going to shore the middle of those spans? It looks like that is around 4" or 5" conform deck. Is it a single span or does it break in the middle? Either way that is going to be a lot of weight and deflection.

 

[Orange65]

Looking at your cross section of the floor, I am surprised at the location of the steel rebar. I assume that he is expecting the decking to work as a tension member at the bottom because the top of the concrete will be in compression, the bottom will be in tension.

 

[wssix99]

Looking at your cross section of the floor, I am surprised at the location of the steel rebar. I assume that he is expecting the decking to work as a tension member at the bottom because the top of the concrete will be in compression, the bottom will be in tension.

By its nature, that's how composite decking works. The pan handles the tension, just like rebar would in a reinforced beam.

That is a lot of rebar for the ICF walls. I expect some will get bent down to tie the floor in and others will stay straight to tie in to the rebar for the next section of wall?

 

[Firebrick43]

Are you going to shore the middle of those spans? It looks like that is around 4" or 5" conform deck. Is it a single span or does it break in the middle? Either way that is going to be a lot of weight and deflection.

Yes, I am going to shore between spans. The deck is Nucore 3vli in 18 gauge thickness. On a double span(one continuous pan 27' long but broke up into to sections 13'1" and 12'3") such as mine its actually rated at 14 feet and some odd inches. The engineer on record states that the shoring is not necessary but i wanted there to reduce belly in the pan. The shoring will actually be made just like a 2x4 stud wall, 16" on center, and will be disassembled and the studs reused for the interior walls on the upper floor later on.



the vertical rebar in the basement walls is 2' on center and I think 105" long which is just an inch shy of the top of the wall. This was done to make pumping and floating the top of the wall easier. Then 156 4' pieces were wet set about 1' on center 24" deep. This only took 5 mins or so for two of us. 3 pieces will be bent over the deck with 1 (every four feet) sticking up. These are to tie the floor to the walls. The fourth vertical piece will have a 4
foot piece bent 90 and tied to tie in the upper walls. The upper walls only need rebar 4' on center and 3/8 vs 1/2 for the basement.

 

[Firebrick43]

Steel decking is down and pour stop around stair opening welded in.

The 1/2 rebar bent down over the edge was REAL fun. Puddle welding went very fast.

now for the pex, wire, and mid span shoring walls and we are ready to pour!

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[readhead]

Well done. Might want to put a guardrail around that opening. Had a finisher fall through an opening like that at one of our jobs. Messed him pretty good. Of course the lawyers came after me because we made the hole. I promptly replied with a copy of my contract with the GC noting that temporary guardrails were not my responsibility. Got a call the day after the fall from the GC to install guardrails. At that point we were done with the job. I politely declined. Never heard anything after that.

 

[KDXSR5]

Subscribed to see your future progress. Goodluck on the build!

 

[Firebrick43]

View media item 65002Puddle welds

View media item 65003dont know why its side ways but here is some penetrations for the bath, and vents for the sewer line and radon vent

View media item 65007Dont know if this is right but i added these osb plates to hold the pvc pipe tight so it cant be knocked askew during the pour

 

[Firebrick43]

Another plate to support a floor drain
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shoring walls for the pour, will be removed after curing and reused for partition walls upstairs

 

[Ironcrow]

Jesus! Is that a guy trying to claw his way out?!

 

[Ironcrow]

Oh, never mind. It's just a glove.

 

[Firebrick43]

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Deck was poured yesterday! Pour went well (mentally stressful for me however!) with minimal problems. only issues were with the truck drivers, one was stuck momentarily due to not listening and another wasn't paying attention and was literally an inch from putting the front wheel in the hole and would have if the finishers were not paying attention and yelled at him. The yard is a mess!

 

[Firebrick43]

Finally got some pre pour pics off the Dslr

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[wssix99]

My wife asked how this is going today. There were two reasons behind her question:
- She/we are curious how the envelope went as the cold weather descended on the Midwest the other week.
- She blogged religiously for the first two weeks of our construction and then dropped off to nothing for years after that. (Things get crazy when the days shorten and the cold weather comes!)

If you get a minute, we'd love to see a picture, even if you don't have time to post a detailed update. We hope all is well and that you've had time to have a great holiday!

 

[Firebrick43]

We might be pouring the walls for the garage and upper level Wednesday. Weather and ice had ground progress to a halt. A lot was completed yesterday.

Will get some pictures tomarrow or Tuesday.

 

[Firebrick43]

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The the pour was interesting to say the least.

So Monday i was mostly done with the block but had not really got much of the wood bracing on. I was depressed as I was going to miss a pour date again, mud was every where and I was just a slogging zombie.

Called the salesman/contractor and asked if I could hire him and his hired man for the day. Since their main business is excavation and it was a quagmire around here they could come down Tuesday and help. The three of us finished everything by 4pm and made final arrangements with the pumper and concrete plant for Wednesday at 1:30

Due to colder temps I used 4500 psi concrete for the extra cement creates extra heat. Heated water to a 3" slump and water reducers to a 6" slump to pump. The salesman helped with the pour(part of the cost of the forms) and he always uses 3500 mix with no water reducers. He really liked how this mix flowed and worked. We did have some push out at the bottom of the garage door apron but it was 37 degrees so it was not stiffening up real fast.

About the end of the first truck we were filling below some window frames and when we started again the pumper wouldn't stroke. By now we had two trucks waiting with concrete and a third on the way and the pump wouldn't work. I was freaking out. The driver being new didn't know what to do but called a coworker. The trucks systems were computer controlled and behind a panel was a screen with a code saying the hydraulics were overheating. The fan was not coming on for whatever reason. He sprayed every thing down with water and got it cool enough to work again.

Temp was 37 degrees. Any way with frequent spraying the truck made it through the rest of the pour without any more trouble other than he was a little green and the man running the hose was not real happy with his jerking of the boom at times. The truck was there medium size pump with a 70' reach, parked in the center of the house it was just big enough.

They finished all the pumping and were cleaning out when the hyd pump housing cracked. But all the concrete was were it was where it was supposed to be so I was relived even if there was some oil on the drive.

I decided to use embedded truss bracket/hurricane straps and between the time straightening the walls with the braces and setting them some were difficult. We were using a laser level to set the height but due to the concrete getting stiff I decided that I may need to shim the trusses up slightly (1/4" or less) later so we just embedded them into the premarked spots.

I did also decide to not use a concrete header over the garage door openings. I left an area on the top row of blocks cut back to set a header/beam across the openings.

I was also going to do 6 small windows in the garage high up(12x18) but for the ease of pour and lack of a view out from them anyhow, I am going to put in a skylight tube through the roof.

Every thing is arrow straight. The garage end is just under 1/2" wider than the other end 80' away but the basement was to. I have seen much worse on most wood houses.

Right now I am relived that most of the concrete work is done now and before any more super cold weather hits. I am really happy with the salesman/contractor for the amvic forms and the forms themselves. The system is strong(no bulges or blowouts) and allows for very little waste. If your interested and in central indiana I will give you his contact information.

one thing I did not think about is I have tried to heat the basement to work down there during inclement weather. The still exposed top surface of the composite deck overhead is such a heat sink that I couldn't raise the temp inside much with a 22000 btu heater to melt the ice off of it a week ago. Wasn't bad as no wind but wasn't tee shirt comfortable either.

 

[Firebrick43]

I also want to say something about the skill level required. I have never hired a contractor (other than to finish concrete slabs) in my life. Dad and Grandpa were handy and I have built a house and several out buildings.

The ICF basement, being rectangular and simple in lay out is well within the skill range of an experience DIY. Some newer houses with weird 6" off sets in foundations and such will complicate matters greatly.

The composite deck is beyond alot of even many pro contractors skill.No contractors I have met even knew what I was talking about. It took extreme research and persistence and a good deal of already owned equipment to make it happen in my case. (Thank you especially to READHEAD, WSSIX99,and Ironcrow) I feel it was worth it in the end but it was difficult. The ICF contractor actually wants to do a deck with the composite steel deck to gain experienced and asked if I could consult. I let him have the extra sheet of decking I had.

The top walls I am sort of mixed on. I could do it again, now that I know what I know, but at least get some help from the pro if you do a top level icf. The extra bracing and complexity of windows and doors requires some what different thinking. That one day of help from my contractor was a life saver.

 

[KDXSR5]

That you for the update, it is much appreciated.

 

[wssix99]

The composite deck is beyond alot of even many pro contractors skill.No contractors I have met even knew what I was talking about.

Great job! You are definitely pioneering. In addition to many contractors being shy of doing these things for the first time and taking on the risk, I've also found that often times, it's faster to do it yourself than to take the time to design everything out so a newbie can be educated or understand the plan.

 

[wssix99]

What a deal with the pumper truck. I'm a big advocate of conveyer trucks in stead - wherever possible. Unfortunately, I don't see many people who even know what they are or are willing to learn how to use them.

I did also decide to not use a concrete header over the garage door openings. I left an area on the top row of blocks cut back to set a header/beam across the openings.

I forget if we discussed garage door track mounting? Have you figured that out? That was a total ***** for me. (I had to carve/grind out concrete to make it happen - so if you need to do the same, I recommend planning to do that sooner than later. It makes a real mess...

We are also pioneering here - you are the only other person I've ever heard of doing an ICF garage. None of the sales or masonry folks associated with my build had any idea of how to finish the opening for the door attachment and the standard specs that the block manufacturer gives don't work with a radiant floor. (Using the manufacturer spec - I would have had radiant floor space exposed outside the door and in the element$.)

I was also going to do 6 small windows in the garage high up(12x18) but for the ease of pour and lack of a view out from them anyhow, I am going to put in a skylight tube through the roof.

You were in my ICF garage ventilation thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5963689

^ I think you could end up with the same problem. (retaining too much heat in the summer) After going through this experience, I really wish I had operable windows in the garage to help ventilate the space in the summer. (I already have venting - just not enough!) We don't get a lot of sunlight - so I'm finding that I really don't need or use my windows for light. (I need/use my electric lights 100% of the time and they far outperform anything the windows can provide for light.) So you might want to consider venting windows up there or allowing for carpentry that will allow for future installation of high vents.

I did a similar thing in one of my bays. I have two bays 8X8 and one bay 8X12. The City requires me to have industrial fireproofing if any bays are over 8 feet tall, so I framed in the top 4 feet of the tall bay for now. If I ever need a taller bay in the future, I can eat the added expense then. (That will probably never happen, though - I chose 8 foot wide bays for energy efficiency, but they are impractically narrow. If I ever need to bring something in that is over 8 feet tall, it will probably be near impossible to get its width through the 8 foot wide opening.)

one thing I did not think about is I have tried to heat the basement to work down there during inclement weather. The still exposed top surface of the composite deck overhead is such a heat sink that I couldn't raise the temp inside much with a 22000 btu heater to melt the ice off of it a week ago. Wasn't bad as no wind but wasn't tee shirt comfortable either.

This is going to get a lot better once you get the roof on. Plastic over the windows, plywood over the garage doors, and a single construction heater should keep the entire place t-shirt warm! Gotta love ICF!

 

[Ironcrow]

I forget if we discussed garage door track mounting? Have you figured that out? That was a total ***** for me. (I had to carve/grind out concrete to make it happen - so if you need to do the same, I recommend planning to do that sooner than later. It makes a real mess...

I dropped J bolts through holes drilled in the Vulcraft decking before the pour. Welded bracketry holds the garage door tracks up. The garage door surround is similarly poured in place around a metal 4x12 rectangular tubing with, again welded metal brackets. And, yes, the typical garage door man is without a clue; he's expecting to lag into wood... I hung the doors myself.

 

[Firebrick43]

What a deal with the pumper truck. I'm a big advocate of conveyer trucks in stead - wherever possible. Unfortunately, I don't see many people who even know what they are or are willing to learn how to use them.

we actually have one in town. I asked about it and was told it works great for basement but not upper levels?? What I was told from an employee of the complany that owns it



I forget if we discussed garage door track mounting? Have you figured that out? That was a total ***** for me. (I had to carve/grind out concrete to make it happen - so if you need to do the same, I recommend planning to do that sooner than later. It makes a real mess...I don't think we discused it nor have I thought about it. They upper header is going to be wood. Not sure really where you had to grind??

We are also pioneering here - you are the only other person I've ever heard of doing an ICF garage. None of the sales or masonry folks associated with my build had any idea of how to finish the opening for the door attachment and the standard specs that the block manufacturer gives don't work with a radiant floor. (Using the manufacturer spec - I would have had radiant floor space exposed outside the door and in the element$.)




You were in my ICF garage ventilation thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5963689

^ I think you could end up with the same problem. (retaining too much heat in the summer) After going through this experience, I really wish I had operable windows in the garage to help ventilate the space in the summer. (I already have venting - just not enough!) We don't get a lot of sunlight - so I'm finding that I really don't need or use my windows for light. (I need/use my electric lights 100% of the time and they far outperform anything the windows can provide for light.) So you might want to consider venting windows up there or allowing for carpentry that will allow for future installation of high vents.
I remeber the conversation and have thought alot about it. I am probably not going to pour the slab till spring. More than likely put tubing in it but I am not sure I will heat it. I will probably only park wifes and mothers car in the garage. I have a 32x60 pole building for a shop. I would like to work in the garage in the winter(don't heat pole building except when I am in it) but moving tools back and forth between buildings would be a pain

I have also planned for easy addition of a mini split and a whole house fan in the ceiling. I think you couldn't because of a room over the garage?

I did a similar thing in one of my bays. I have two bays 8X8 and one bay 8X12. The City requires me to have industrial fireproofing if any bays are over 8 feet tall, so I framed in the top 4 feet of the tall bay for now. If I ever need a taller bay in the future, I can eat the added expense then. (That will probably never happen, though - I chose 8 foot wide bays for energy efficiency, but they are impractically narrow. If I ever need to bring something in that is over 8 feet tall, it will probably be near impossible to get its width through the 8 foot wide opening.)




This is going to get a lot better once you get the roof on. Plastic over the windows, plywood over the garage doors, and a single construction heater should keep the entire place t-shirt warm! Gotta love ICF!

I will put windows in as soon as the roof is on. Cant wait.

I am also thinking about swinging carrage doors and ice melt tubing in the apron

 

[wssix99]

I don't think we discussed it nor have I thought about it. They upper header is going to be wood. Not sure really where you had to grind??

I would plan all that out now before you put the header in. You'll want to plan the placement and firing of that header for how you are going to situate the doors.

I do remember Ironcrow's doors now - he has metal wrapping the opening and can attach to that. You have a situation similar to what I ended up with - plain ICF. The only difference I had was that we ripped the wooden bucks to sit inside the block instead of capping over the end. (You'll need to think about this and decide if you want to keep it that way or rip it down some. If you need to rip it, I imagine that will be much easier before you build higher.)

You have the first problem I had: the interior surface to mount the garage door tracks to is foam, which won't work. You could probably put a 2X6 over top of that, with one end tying into your buck, but that will cause your door to project in to the room by 4-6". (1.5" for the 2X6, and then another several inches for the tracks and door that sit inbound of the wall.) You'd also need a plastic tie in the block not too far away from the end to support the other side of the 2X6.

The second problem I had was that my radiant slab was poured up to the ICF block wall. Since the garage door sits inbound of the wall, going with the wood-over-ICF method would have caused part of my radiant floor exposed to the outside 24X7, which I don't want for energy efficiency reasons.

So, I carved out the foam around the edges so I could tapcon a 2X6 to the concrete around the opening. This works out so the door sits right at the edge of my poured slab. The downside is that when the foam is cut away from the wall like that, ridges are left where the concrete interlocks with the block. I had to use a chipper to blast out those raised ridges and then go over everything with a diamond grinding disk to make it all flat before attaching the 2X6.

I have also planned for easy addition of a mini split and a whole house fan in the ceiling. I think you couldn't because of a room over the garage?

I can put in a mini-split, but I'd most likely go with a second geothermal heat pump because I have a lot of excess capacity on my well, especially in the summer.

I'll be doing more testing in the coming summer, but I think that with a programmable differential temperature control for my ventilation fan, I can use the mass walls to keep things cool enough where the garage will always be under 85 degrees - and that's only for the worst two months of the year. For the other months where the nights are in the 70's, I should be able to keep things much cooler with a "smart" fan. (We'll see - I may still have to give up and go with active cooling, but if I can get by just as well with a fan and the mass walls - I want to do that! I know I can keep the garage comfortable for 10+ months, so even if things are still warm; I don't know if I can justify the expense of air conditioning for a space I'm not in all the time.)

 

[Firebrick43]

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Some updates. Setting trusses

View media item 689735/8 Osb going on

View media item 68976 Synthetic underlayment. Really great stuff. Got all but on run on and had to go get more the next morning. It was sprinkling pretty good when I put the last strip on and had as much traction as when it was dry. Next day there was 60 mph winds and no tears or leaks. Felt would have been shredded. Brand was raptor.

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Basement pic with support walls disassembled

I probably will end this thread here as most of it is about a house and not a garage. Also most of the work from here on out is more typical.

I will start a ICF garage thread as developments happen.