I've had very good luck with Hitachi (now Metabo HPT) miter saws. I've got a 8 1/2 slider as a lightweight jobsite saw that I use mostly for hardwood flooring and baseboard. 10 inch slider in the shop. They are both dead accurate and cheaper than similiar Dewalt or Makita saws. I'm very happy with both.
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Compound Slider...or Not....
- Thread starter ddawg16
- Start date
Toolfool
Well-known member
During almost 35 years in carpentry I've used several different brands and models of mitre saws. My favorites have become the Dewalts. I have a 10" compound, a 12" compound and a 12" slider. If I could only have one saw it would be the Dewalt 12" compound. My first one was stolen (along with routers, drills, etc. from a jobsite) and I replaced it with the same model.
Just found this older article, but it ref some footprint dims for sliders.
most these saws require 30"+ from front of bench to wall and
footprint of 43 1/2" for the Ridgid
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/tool-test-12-in-sliding-compound-miter-saws/
Thanks for that.....interesting what they say about the Makita blade
By the looks of it your miter saw will be stationary and you have a table setup for it. Measure the Dewalt DW779/780 to make sure you have the required depth to make it work. Looking at your table setup it looks like you will need to move it out away from the wall close to 12" if not more to fit the slider from Dewalt.
Measure the Bosch to see how much less depth it will take up, as it can be put up tight against the wall. If its going to be stationary, weight is of zero concern and I would go as far as to say if you want any equipment to be as accurate and repeatable as possible, NEVER move it.
All of the posts I have seen take their personal needs into account, but totally disregard the pics the OP posted. Apples and oranges comparisons imho.
Accurate on all points....
I'm leaning towards setting it up so it never moves....and keeping the Ryobi for portable tasks....
Some how I have the impression that table saws and RAS have a different rake to the blade to prevent the RAS from self feeding. Something to check out.
lg
no neat sig line
larry_g is exactly, right. Different blades for table saw and sliding compound miter saws. At 10" the 'grab' is less pronounced than on a 12" saw. I now wonder if one reason those old radio arm saws got such a bad reputation is because we were all putting table saw blades on them!!!:
http://carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/saw-tip-angles.html
https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Saw_Blade_Rake_Negative_or_Positive.html
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larry_g is exactly, right. Different blades for table saw and sliding compound miter saws. At 10" the 'grab' is less pronounced than on a 12" saw. I now wonder if one reason those old radio arm saws got such a bad reputation is because we were all putting table saw blades on them!!!:
https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Saw_Blade_Rake_Negative_or_Positive.html
Learn something every day.............damn....I love this group
^^^ Uh yes sir, I learned about this very issue from this site : ) I paid the extra dollars for a negative angle blade on my 12" saw and immediately was able to keep my cuts smoother and straighter on the line because the wood stays put. I don't even use the clamp any more. When I was young I used to love how a RAS would eat its way through 2X stock. Like woody woodpecker.
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