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Compressed air dryer layout

bob_mp

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Messages
65
Location
Bay Area, CA
Gentlemen,
I'm looking to add an air dryer in the shop and would appreciate suggestions and feedback on my proposed solution.

Some background...

I have a new Quincy 5 HP 80 gallon, 2 stage compressor. I'm looking to get dry air for my MQL (minimum quantity lubrication) system for my mill and lathe. I have tried a Home Depot water separator/coalescing filter at the output of the compressor. What I'm finding is that there's enough moisture in the compressed air to cause rusting of both the parts as well as the vises on the mill.

I'm thinking of getting a refrigerated air dryer and have some questions on layout. The shop is temperature controlled. The relative humidity is about 40%. I plan on leaving the air compressor powered on at all times.

It's not unusual that the MQL system is running for many hours in a day, so the dessicant route doesn't seem attractive. I'll also use the air for the tool changer on my mill and air tools.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. The compressor will have an an electronic drain controlled by a timer.

2. The output of the compressor would pass through 3/4" K copper lines, brazed with silver solder, about 20' and into a moisture separator (I'm considering the one from Tsunami). The idea is to let the air cool to make it easier to remove the moisture.

3. The output of the moisture separator would pass through a coalescing filter and then go into the air dryer, something like a Hankinson HPR15.

4. The output of the air dryer would go through a high efficiency coalescing filter and a regulator to set the pressure to about 120 psi. The output of this will be run to the various point in the shop.

5. I'll add slope on the lines, drip legs, etc.

6. At the point of use, I'll add a regulator to get down to the desired pressure.

Thoughts?

Questions:

1. Would it make sense to move the regulator to the output of the compressor to minimize the mechanical stresses in the lines associated with the associated with the pressure changes? Something tells me that if I did this, the regulator would be dealing with a lot of water.

2. Should I be using black pipe instead of copper (type K)?

I appreciate the help,
Bob
 
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metaldad

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Aug 2, 2011
Messages
7,732
Location
nw indiana
reduce pressure, after moisture/particulate removal.
copper is easier than pipe.
timed blowdown of tank is good, not necessary, if you are diligent with manual blowdown
drip legs, with a blowdown, is good.
sloped lines, toward drips, good.
 
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B

bob_mp

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Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Messages
65
Location
Bay Area, CA
Thanks metaldad; copper it is.

For the drip legs, I was thinking of the pneumatic float type drains along the following lines. Do these tend to leak or require a lot of maintenance?

Thanks
Bob
 

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pcmeiners

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Aug 13, 2009
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7,825
Location
In the only town in Pennsylvania, Bloomsburg.
You should have a decent air cooler, drip leg and coalescent filter in front of the air dryer which would remove approx. 70% of the moisture, and contaminants. Would also cool the air to near ambient, for a more temperature efficient feed to the air dryer. 20 foot of copper pipe will not do it if the compressor is used continuously for any length of time.


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=556948&highlight=db1290


float valves work OK, you can purchase spares on Ebay, avoid drip legs or filters with plastic bowls if possible.
 
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