Compressed Air Setup help

[brianflorida2024]

I am in the process of setting up a small at home business doing Cerakote (kinda like paint, but more for spraying firearms ect). This is the compressor I have and how someone I hired set it up. Not sure if he even did it correctly, kinda felt like he was on some drugs or something.



So the compressor has a quick release on the left side for the sand blast cabinet and then the blue piping goes into the attic and then about 40 feel later ends up in a room where the spray booth will be. The attic and the room where the compressor is, is not AC'd. I live in hot Florida so I am concerned that I will be spraying some water.

So as you can see in the photo, it looks like he installed a regulator. I gave him the box which contained

(1/2 in. NPT Deluxe FRL trio is a filter, regulator and lubricator all in 1. The filter comes with an automatic overnight drain, which will operate whenever liquid accumulates in the filter bowl. The regulator is the relieving type, which will exhaust air downstream when pressure rises above the maximum preset pressure. The drip type lubricator allows for precise setting. This pre-assembled unit has polycarbonate bowls with metal bowl guards, which includes a pressure gauge and 40 mic filter element. Offers a maximum of 250 psi and 100 SCFM. ) COULDNT POST Home Depot Link

this but he said I didn't need the other pieces. Not sure if he was right or not.

But I guess my primary question is.... What will I need to add to make sure there is no water/humidity in my lines when I am sandblasting or spraying (40') away?


I appreciate any help or advice you can give.

 

[brianflorida2024]

 

[pattenp]

 

[Hohn]

You need a desiccant dryer as a minimum. Also, for spraying you do NOT want a lubricator, the oil will contaminate your Cerakote work. Lubricators are only for dedicated air runs that will only feed air tools with motors in them. I generally recommend skipping lubricators entirely for all home use and just use air tool oil in tools as you use them.

Many "filters" in compressed air systems will remove water-- that is, LIQUID water. But most of the water in your air lines, especially closer to the compressor, is in the form of vapor and cannot be removed by a coalescing process.

This is why a coalescing filter is best located as close downstream to the point of use as possible. That gives maximum time for the vapor to cool and condense and lets the filter actually remove the water.

That said, you won't get dry air from these style filters even under ideal conditions. They just can't do it and aren't intended to. You need a desiccant dryer at a minimum, or a refrigerated dryer at best.

The latter works just like your home dehumidifier-- pass the air over a cold coil and condense out as much moisture as possible.

For best air dryness, get a refrigerated air dryer and plumb a desiccant cartridge downstream of that.

EDIT: also, if you read the instructions that came with that Milton-appearing regulator, it will tell you that you need a filter upstream of that regulator to protect it.

For your uses, the sequence IMO should be coalescing filter-->> regulator-->>refrigerant dryer-->>desiccant cartridge-->> final particle filter.

Ideally, you'd park most of that hardware far downstream and away from the compressor. This accomplishes several things:
1) makes your coalescing filter more effective at water removal
2) Makes the line losses less (most of your air plumbing is pre-regulator
3) Gives more precise pressure control by putting the regulator nearest the point of use. (and avoids the situation where your 120psi regulator won't go high enough to offset line loss on a long run with a high demand tool).

 

[Citation]

I would suggest adding an after cooler with water tap in between the pump and tank. An after cooler will drop air temperature before the air goes into the tank. Dropping the temp will help condense the water which is then trapped by a filter before it goes into the tank. It's better for tank life and will reduce the load on any down stream drying systems.

 

[Hohn]

I would suggest adding an after cooler with water tap 3 between the pump and tank. An after cooler will drop air temperature before the air goes into the tank. Dropping the temp will help condense the water which is then trapped by a filter before it goes into the tank. It's better for tank life and will reduce the load on any down stream drying systems.

Agree, the best way to address water is as much prevention as you can. Keep it from the air inlet. If you can't do that, keep it out of the tank. If you can't do that, keep it out of the lines. If you can't do that, keep it out of the tool. And if you can't do that, you need to find a way to do it.

 

[Stuart in MN]

What does the other end of the air line system look like in the spray room? In addition to what others have said I'd include a drip leg and a drain valve there.