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Compression - Show Off Your Compressor

customcabinetpro

New member
Joined
Dec 16, 2011
Messages
4
Next find was this monster:

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Quincy QE-10. Has a two stage 6x3.25x4 pump and a 10 hp, 3 phase motor. Saw it running life was good...

Until I found out that while my breaker box says it is 3 phase, it was actually rewired to be single phase.

So i'm wondering, do I ditch it or how can I make it run on single phase? I have heard of people doing motor and pulley swaps. Can anyone shed some light on how to determine proper rpm, pulley size and where to get a pulley. According to what I've found, that pump has an rpm range of 400-1070. Obviously I won't get as much cfm, but with a smaller motor and lower rpm, this thing may purr like a kitten.
Hi, nice find. Its good that you found the min-max rpm rating because determining the actual current rpm is pretty easy. Measure the pulley diameters and subtract 0.35 (this will give you actual pitch diameter for the typical B size belt). Take the motor rpm and multiply it times motor pulley diameter (remember to subtract 0.35 from the diameter), then divide that number by the compressor flywheel diameter (remember to subtract 0.35 from the diameter) and you now have the pump rpm.

Example: If the motor pulley diameter is 6.00" minus the pitch of 0.35" = 5.65", the compressor flywheel is 16.00" minus the pitch of 0.35" = 15.65.

Motor RPM: 1725

1725 x 5.65=9746.25 / by 15.65=622.76 RPM

If you do decide to replace the 3 phase motor with a single phase motor its a good idea to get one with a 1.15 service factor which will allow it to pull 15% over the FLA rating amps. Typically these motors also have a class F insulation as well which allows them to run hotter.

I just put a new Baldor (L1410T) 5 hp on mine.

Good luck.
 
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super-six

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
77
Location
Brookville, Ohio
Eaton Compressor, pictured when new. 60 gallon tank, 220 volt, single stage. I bought it new about 5 years ago.

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Car Collector Chronicles

Active member
Joined
Dec 14, 2012
Messages
35
Location
SE Wisconsin
Mine is a Porter-Cable, 5 H.P., 60 gal., single stage, 220 V upright. It is plumbed using black pipe. I have drops on all 3 walls of the garage, and 50 ft. reel.

My only complaint is the noise. If I had it to do over, I would put the compressor in a separate box, outside the garage.
 

Chevy72pu

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
304
Location
Sandersville, GA
For what I do in my shop this one is sufficient. I guess if I ever start painting or doing other major jobs I will want to upgrade. Added the drain extension after seeing a thread on this site.
 

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TOOL_MONGER

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2012
Messages
182
Location
So. Dak.
Mine is a bit of an antique. 80 gallon kellogg american 321. I got it from my father-in-law when he bought a bigger one for his body shop about 15 years ago... Ive had new brushes put in the ancient century motor (1/2hp) but thats all I've done to it besides change the oil... It seems to have survived the fire and I would like to restore it back to the original color...
 

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gapfast

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Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
213
For what I do in my shop this one is sufficient. I guess if I ever start painting or doing other major jobs I will want to upgrade. Added the drain extension after seeing a thread on this site.

Looks good to me!! I like the hose reel
 

gapfast

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Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
213
Soon to be a rebuilt devilbiss 432:thumbup:
 

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MrKona

Active member
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
34
Here's mine the day I brought it home... Single cylinder Saylor Beall with a 30 gallon tank, 1/2 HP Baldor motor. Tank was manufactured in 1984. I just changed the oil and it runs great. I'd eventually like to find something bigger.
 

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alberto

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Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
756
Here's mine the day I brought it home... Single cylinder Saylor Beall with a 30 gallon tank, 1/2 HP Baldor motor. Tank was manufactured in 1984. I just changed the oil and it runs great. I'd eventually like to find something bigger.

I'm looking at one just like this. Do you mind if I ask you how much you paid for this one? I just want to see of the one I'm looking at is fairly priced. I think it is, but it's hard to find comparables for these Saylor Beal's
 

HD FLHX

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Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
After 15yrs I just recently upgraded to a two-stage. The old one was a BelAire 6hp 60 gallon single stage. The new is a Quincy 5hp 60 gallon two-stage


IMG_20121215_191144_929.jpg
 

J Persons

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
640
Location
Louisiana
I know the single stage compressors usually have a max limit of about 110 PSI and the two stage are about 175 PSI, and most all my air tools use 90 PSI. What is the advantage of the higher pressure two stage compressors when it has to be regulated down to 90 PSI?
 

HD FLHX

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
1,100
Location
Central Iowa
I know the single stage compressors usually have a max limit of about 110 PSI and the two stage are about 175 PSI, and most all my air tools use 90 PSI. What is the advantage of the higher pressure two stage compressors when it has to be regulated down to 90 PSI?


Higher CFM at 100psi which means they keep up with air tools that drink air ie...DA's, grinders, blast cabinets. They also recover faster so they wont run as much.
 
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1Garageman

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Joined
May 12, 2009
Messages
4,417
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Here.s mime doubled up 3 cyl.s sitting on a 60 gal tank with another 40 gal mounted on the wall . small tank on the left side is an air dryer .

Could you put some more pictures up show this off? I'd like to see some pictures taken further away. This sounds really neat. I'd love to add another tank to my compressor. Thanks:beer:
 

Iroc-Z

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Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
720
Location
New Germany, MN
I know the single stage compressors usually have a max limit of about 110 PSI and the two stage are about 175 PSI, and most all my air tools use 90 PSI. What is the advantage of the higher pressure two stage compressors when it has to be regulated down to 90 PSI?

Also allot of people run pressure on there air tools above 90 psi. I keep my shop line pressure at 120 psi. Compressor pumps up to 155 psi.
 
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slopdog

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Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
162
Location
prince edward island , canada
Could you put some more pictures up show this off? I'd like to see some pictures taken further away. This sounds really neat. I'd love to add another tank to my compressor. Thanks:beer:

Hello 1Garageman . sorry for the delay . Last summer i added a small lean style addition to my shop ( 8 ft x 6 ft ) compressor is in a 4 ft x 6 ft part of that . sandblasting cabinet is set up in the remainder of space . This makes it hard to get a better picture ( bigger ) However i can tell you that the extra tank is just a 40 gallon propane tank with brackets welded to the side . bolted up high on the wall with lag bolts .




If you have any question . I.ll be happy to answer .:beer:
 

cj2025

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Pleasanton, CA
Hi All,
I'm new to this forum but found it while trying to investigate this new compressor I just bought. I purchased this old 5hp (Baldor installed in 2010), 220/1, 60 gal Kellogg unit to replace an oil-less 30 gal CH that I have in my garage. I want to run a blast cabinet and so I needed to get something bigger. I'm a total nooby to compressors but I'm into machinery and machining and so I think I am getting up to speed rather quickly. I actually met this guy who had told me he had a Quincy for sale, well it ended up being this beast and I'm trying to identify exactly what make it really is (the model plate has been removed). I have spoken with the boys over at air compressor equipment and they think it's an old 352 (yeah the 7.5-10HP units, however they have like a 21.25" flywheel and mine is only 17.25"). The only issue I have is that they don't believe me when I tell them there isn't a FPT port for the HP unloader. I sent them pictures and everything but they tell me I'm just missing it and unless someone plug welded the port and ground it to perfection before it's last paintjob, there is no port. What I want to know is, can I tie the HP unloader into the HP exhaust tube which supplies the tank? This way it would see the pressure on a start and be "unloaded" by the pressure switch when it opened the circuit (I'm just asking as I'm not sure)? Maybe I'm on one but I would like to get this thing identified and figured out ASAP so I can run the compressor and sleep at night. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks all!
-CJ
 

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cj2025

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Pleasanton, CA
I actually think this may be a 331TV but even those seem to have an unloader on the right hand side at the top of the head. hmmmmmm......
 

cj2025

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Pleasanton, CA
Thanks, yes I have been on this page quite a few times. I am cerain it is a 331 now but I'm just entirely not sure how the unloader on the front of the oil housing hooks up to the head.
 

quarterhalfman

New member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
1
I have a 331 which has a port beside of the exhaust which you dont have. You will have to run a 1/4 copper pipe to the elbow on side then to the check valve going into the tank and it will have to have a 1/4 inch threaded hole above the valve which is inside the tank I think.
 

cj2025

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Pleasanton, CA
Hey thanks quarterhalf.
So I just wanted to go over this one more time with some different options.
1. Run 1/4 copper line from the elbow threaded into the front of the oil pump and tee into connection between the 3/4 exhaust port and the tank supply line. Reference Picture 1.
2. Run 1/4 copper line from the same elbow and tee into the 1/4 port in the check valve and the line to the pressure switch. Reference pictures 2 and 3.
3. Run 1/4 copper line from the elbow and tee in closer to the pressure switch. Reference picture 4.
I'm aiming at the first option since it seems like most of the models actually tie in relatively close to there anyways. Also the 1/4 adapter from tubing to pipe thread isn't anything special is it, it's just a plain old thru adapter right?
Thanks!
-CJ
 

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jrsulo

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
746
Location
New Jersey
Hey thanks quarterhalf.
So I just wanted to go over this one more time with some different options.
1. Run 1/4 copper line from the elbow threaded into the front of the oil pump and tee into connection between the 3/4 exhaust port and the tank supply line. Reference Picture 1.
2. Run 1/4 copper line from the same elbow and tee into the 1/4 port in the check valve and the line to the pressure switch. Reference pictures 2 and 3.
3. Run 1/4 copper line from the elbow and tee in closer to the pressure switch. Reference picture 4.
I'm aiming at the first option since it seems like most of the models actually tie in relatively close to there anyways. Also the 1/4 adapter from tubing to pipe thread isn't anything special is it, it's just a plain old thru adapter right?
Thanks!
-CJ

Looks to me that the original unloader was a centrifical unloader off the pump....also the pressure switch has been changed to one that is now the unloader,,,,,,,,same thing i had to do to my 1959 curtis as no parts made anymore !!
 

cj2025

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Pleasanton, CA
I've never used a rotary before but it sounds like its too good to be true, IR rotary for $700, I'd jump on that. Too bad I don't live in Portland anymore.
 

Tim The Tool Man

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
1,520
Location
Lehigh Valley, PA
Hi All,
I'm new to this forum but found it while trying to investigate this new compressor I just bought. I purchased this old 5hp (Baldor installed in 2010), 220/1, 60 gal Kellogg unit to replace an oil-less 30 gal CH that I have in my garage. I want to run a blast cabinet and so I needed to get something bigger. I'm a total nooby to compressors but I'm into machinery and machining and so I think I am getting up to speed rather quickly. I actually met this guy who had told me he had a Quincy for sale, well it ended up being this beast and I'm trying to identify exactly what make it really is (the model plate has been removed). I have spoken with the boys over at air compressor equipment and they think it's an old 352 (yeah the 7.5-10HP units, however they have like a 21.25" flywheel and mine is only 17.25"). The only issue I have is that they don't believe me when I tell them there isn't a FPT port for the HP unloader. I sent them pictures and everything but they tell me I'm just missing it and unless someone plug welded the port and ground it to perfection before it's last paintjob, there is no port. What I want to know is, can I tie the HP unloader into the HP exhaust tube which supplies the tank? This way it would see the pressure on a start and be "unloaded" by the pressure switch when it opened the circuit (I'm just asking as I'm not sure)? Maybe I'm on one but I would like to get this thing identified and figured out ASAP so I can run the compressor and sleep at night. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks all!

-CJ

I recently rebuilt my American Kellogg 340TV and yours has a similar, if not identical crank case but a completely different head. Might be a 331?

Anyhow as for your unloader, just tee into the line going into your tank. I see it looks new and may have been replaced and the tee was possibly eliminated at that time. My unloader in located in the head at the second stage compression valve where the tank fill tube is located so tapping into that line will have the same effect.

Edit: I see additional info was added in a subsequent post and it looks like you have an updated pressure switch with a built in unloader. So just ignore this post!!!

View media item 25608
 
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cj2025

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Pleasanton, CA
Hey thanks for the info Tim. I'm going to tee into the line as indicated and rerun the line to the pressure switch as well, because whoever made the radius in the existing line definitely did it by hand to the point where it almost looks pinched.
-CJ
 

ToocoolZ28

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
100
Location
Mid Tenn
So I just purchased a new CH 80 gal 5hp single stage. I am not sure I understand the check valve recommendation. As the tank is under pressure, what value is the check valve on the tank outlet? I have not hooked up or plumbed mine in yet, so am wondering if this is something I need to worry about?

Also, manual says not to mount compressor on the wood shipping material. Unit is an upright, so fairly tall. My garage floor is roughed in for in floor heat, so do not really want to start poking holes in it. I was planning on using 4x4 wood material, with 1/2 plywood on top to make a solid wood pad to mount it on.

Manual says should be mounted on concrete. I plan to use rubber mounts for vibration, and have a 3/4 hydraulic rubber hose to tie it to piping system to isolate for vibration.

I guess one option if concrete is the best option would be to poor a pad on top of the floor, say 3" thick and attach to that. Wondering if any issues for raised pad to adhere to existing floor, which is about 3 months old and has been sealed.

Thanks
I have an IR 5 hp 80 gallon 2 stage that has been sitting on the shipping pallet that it came with for 5 years. Never had any problems with it. The papers that came with it also said it had to be hard wired, I put a pigtail for a dryer on it and plugged it in. Again no problems.
 
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