paul2112
Well-known member
Isn't that for a oil level sight glass???
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
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jshsharp03
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- Nov 21, 2012
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New guy here. First post. My small setup that I finished today. (I need to run the orange hose under the tank I know.) I took the picture as soon as everything tested out ok. Picked this up at Tractor Supply yesterday for $369. It will do everything that I want it to.
https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/559415_4610876871866_619461373_n.jpg
https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/559415_4610876871866_619461373_n.jpg
hecanpickit
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- Mar 13, 2013
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What size & type is the orange hose? i am looking to do something similar.
jshsharp03
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- Nov 21, 2012
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It was like $12 at Lowes, 3/8 inch, and is 50 feet long. I left it curled up behind the compressor in hopes that maybe it will cool down the air before it reaches the water filter
The only short pieces that I could find was on Amazon. Search: "GOODYEAR 46511 3/8-Inch by 6-Feet"Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Harbor Freight doesn't list them on their website but I found some short air hoses in the store (I think they were $7.99). Like the galvanized pipe in my system, these hoses and quick connects are half-inch so they don't restrict flow very much. This setup allows me to easily bypass the Motorguard filter:It was like $12 at Lowes, 3/8 inch, and is 50 feet long. I left it curled up behind the compressor in hopes that maybe it will cool down the air before it reaches the water filter
For size comparison, the couplers on the outside are 1/4-inch, the next ones in are 3/8-inch and the ones in the center are 1/2-inch:
Winmon
Well-known member
Just got my new Champion VR5-8 Advantage (5hp/80 gal.) delivered and set into it's shed. Still have to get some plumbing work done along with getting the wiring to it before I can fire it up, I can't wait...
Vent fan..
Inlet air vent and filter...
Vent fan..
Inlet air vent and filter...
Nice Champion, I need to add an automatic drain.
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alxdgr8
Well-known member
Been needing to upgrade compressors as my 26 gallon Speedaire doesn't work too well with a 90lb pressure pot sandblaster 
Found a 2-stage RAND 4000 80 gallon 5hp compressor for cheap on craigslist. Guy said the Champion motor was acting up and gave me another "5hp" motor (smaller frame AO Smith, but still quoted for ~5hp, we'll see) that was tested working. Plan to strip it and repaint it. Going to completely redo the wiring too.
Found a 2-stage RAND 4000 80 gallon 5hp compressor for cheap on craigslist. Guy said the Champion motor was acting up and gave me another "5hp" motor (smaller frame AO Smith, but still quoted for ~5hp, we'll see) that was tested working. Plan to strip it and repaint it. Going to completely redo the wiring too.
I have been working with a craftman 33 gallon on a fleet of 14 trucks....
I orderd a DV Sytems(DEVAIR) TAPV 5052 3phase .
its here.....
3phase 200v
19.1CFM@175psi
Seems to have the new style cast iron intercooler also
I orderd a DV Sytems(DEVAIR) TAPV 5052 3phase .
its here.....
3phase 200v
19.1CFM@175psi
Seems to have the new style cast iron intercooler also
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SUNBURNTsnype
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Messages
- 41
What is a good size and pressure for automotive shop tools and paint guns? would I be able to get by with a small 30 gallon, or would I need something like an 80 Gal?
The answer to the question of what is best for automotive shop tools and paint guns (and practically every other possible need for compressed air) doesn't depend on the size of the tank in terms of gallons, nor on the amount of pressure in terms of PSI.
There are small compressors that claim 400 PSI output, but they have no flow capacity.
There are huge compressors that with 80 gallon tanks, but they have anemic pumps with no flow capacity.
Air FLOW is what drive tools and atomizes paint. FLOW is expressed in terms of CFM (cubic feet per minute) , or SCFM (where S denotes Standardized CFM, based on a commonly agreed to condition of measurement).
The most useful metric to size up air compressor needs is CFM/SCFM. This matters the most. Everything else is a secondary consideration... not trivial... but secondary.
The tank size is more relevant to mitigate the air pump's duty cycle rating. The tank also serves as an expansion chamber to help condensate drop out suspension in the heated freshly compressed air.
The pressure is more relevant to how much air can be stuffed into said tank, again to mitigate pump cycling. Most air tools operate at 90 psi. There isn't much need to have pressures higher than 125 psi in any automotive application. The 175 psi two stage compressors help extend the pump cycling by cramming more air into the tank at higher pressures, which buffers the time between pump cycles as intermittent tool demand can be satisfied a little bit longer with the extra air that was crammed into the tank at higher pressure. But any continuous demand, like painting a large project, or running a D/A sander, grinder, or blasting cabinet, will quickly consume the stored air and kick the pump back on and running.
So it all boils down to the air demand that the bare pump can put out without any buffering tank at all. You probably want as much CFM as you can afford.
But affordability isn't just measured with the initial cost of the compressor. There is the cost of the energy to run the compressor. High CFM pumps need more energy to run.
Home machine shop hobbyists that use compressed air in CNC machines with constant demand over long milling processes tend to prefer rotary screw compressors, which can be more efficient at constant air supply at lower pressures (typically 110 psi, not more than 150 psi).
Industrial and commercial settings have 3 phase power, which is more efficient for electrical motors. Most homes do not have 3 phase power in the neighborhood. Rural areas like farms do for well pumps, and those types farm owners leverage their 3 phase service with 3 phase compressors that consume less current.
So it boils down to a balance. Most small auto shops or serious home enthusiasts who are limited to single phase 230V electricity service find the balance lies with a 17 CFM pump consuming about 20 amps of continuous running current with a 5 HP true running horsepower motor turning at 1725 RPM driving a two stage pump spinning at about half that speed buffered by an 80 gallon tank cramming air in at 175 psi. Notice that tank size and pressure is listed last in this description, as they are the least important.
A step above that, within the reaches of single phase 230 volt service, would be a 24-25 CFM pump consuming about 30 amps of current with a 7.5 HP true running horsepower motor turning at 3450 RPM spinning a two stage pump at about 1,500 RPM buffered by an 80 or a 120 gallon tank at 175 psi.
There are 7.5 HP motors that turn 1725 RPM, and 25 CFM pumps that spin at 800 RPM... but if the pump is splash lubricated, make sure that the pump manufacturer approves the lower spinning RPM, as the pump's lubrication can depend on the agitation rate of the splash paddles in the sump.
There are small compressors that claim 400 PSI output, but they have no flow capacity.
There are huge compressors that with 80 gallon tanks, but they have anemic pumps with no flow capacity.
Air FLOW is what drive tools and atomizes paint. FLOW is expressed in terms of CFM (cubic feet per minute) , or SCFM (where S denotes Standardized CFM, based on a commonly agreed to condition of measurement).
The most useful metric to size up air compressor needs is CFM/SCFM. This matters the most. Everything else is a secondary consideration... not trivial... but secondary.
The tank size is more relevant to mitigate the air pump's duty cycle rating. The tank also serves as an expansion chamber to help condensate drop out suspension in the heated freshly compressed air.
The pressure is more relevant to how much air can be stuffed into said tank, again to mitigate pump cycling. Most air tools operate at 90 psi. There isn't much need to have pressures higher than 125 psi in any automotive application. The 175 psi two stage compressors help extend the pump cycling by cramming more air into the tank at higher pressures, which buffers the time between pump cycles as intermittent tool demand can be satisfied a little bit longer with the extra air that was crammed into the tank at higher pressure. But any continuous demand, like painting a large project, or running a D/A sander, grinder, or blasting cabinet, will quickly consume the stored air and kick the pump back on and running.
So it all boils down to the air demand that the bare pump can put out without any buffering tank at all. You probably want as much CFM as you can afford.
But affordability isn't just measured with the initial cost of the compressor. There is the cost of the energy to run the compressor. High CFM pumps need more energy to run.
Home machine shop hobbyists that use compressed air in CNC machines with constant demand over long milling processes tend to prefer rotary screw compressors, which can be more efficient at constant air supply at lower pressures (typically 110 psi, not more than 150 psi).
Industrial and commercial settings have 3 phase power, which is more efficient for electrical motors. Most homes do not have 3 phase power in the neighborhood. Rural areas like farms do for well pumps, and those types farm owners leverage their 3 phase service with 3 phase compressors that consume less current.
So it boils down to a balance. Most small auto shops or serious home enthusiasts who are limited to single phase 230V electricity service find the balance lies with a 17 CFM pump consuming about 20 amps of continuous running current with a 5 HP true running horsepower motor turning at 1725 RPM driving a two stage pump spinning at about half that speed buffered by an 80 gallon tank cramming air in at 175 psi. Notice that tank size and pressure is listed last in this description, as they are the least important.
A step above that, within the reaches of single phase 230 volt service, would be a 24-25 CFM pump consuming about 30 amps of current with a 7.5 HP true running horsepower motor turning at 3450 RPM spinning a two stage pump at about 1,500 RPM buffered by an 80 or a 120 gallon tank at 175 psi.
There are 7.5 HP motors that turn 1725 RPM, and 25 CFM pumps that spin at 800 RPM... but if the pump is splash lubricated, make sure that the pump manufacturer approves the lower spinning RPM, as the pump's lubrication can depend on the agitation rate of the splash paddles in the sump.
Here's mine
It's 5 hp (25a @240v), 1725 rpm motor, 1000 rpm pump putting out 16cfm/90 psi. It has head unloaders connected to a pilot valve so it can run in a continuous mode.
Here's my attempt to control the moisture from the heat when I'm using the media blaster
There are six runs of 3/4" copper at 7' length each, each slightly slanted to drain to the bottom pipe which ends with a drip loop and ball valve for draining.
Works very well.
Trublue
It's 5 hp (25a @240v), 1725 rpm motor, 1000 rpm pump putting out 16cfm/90 psi. It has head unloaders connected to a pilot valve so it can run in a continuous mode.
Here's my attempt to control the moisture from the heat when I'm using the media blaster
There are six runs of 3/4" copper at 7' length each, each slightly slanted to drain to the bottom pipe which ends with a drip loop and ball valve for draining.
Works very well.
Trublue
Trey T
Well-known member
That's my favorite pump. I think that's the most efficient pump ever design and made in USA, bar-none! I think it's the king of all 5-HP pump, even better than the most recognized Quincy 325.
Just got my new Champion VR5-8 Advantage (5hp/80 gal.) delivered and set into it's shed. Still have to get some plumbing work done along with getting the wiring to it before I can fire it up, I can't wait...
......
pepi
Well-known member
Here is a shot of old blue lives outside. The two other shots are of an HF auto drain, I have used this auto drain for 5 years. Recently is started to leak, so I got this new one 10 beans.
As all know HF's QC varies from one production run to the next, and of course it did. The first one ran @ 175 tank pressure, the paper work says no worky above 100 psi. New valve new run no worky above 100 psi, so you can see I installed a regulator before the auto drain valve ........ Problem solved. Another side note for anyone interested is using this auto drain kit notice I used about a foot of the plastic line and the rest copper. This fixes another problem the plastic line supplied can melt and blow off. This did happen to be a few years back FYI.
View attachment 251989
As all know HF's QC varies from one production run to the next, and of course it did. The first one ran @ 175 tank pressure, the paper work says no worky above 100 psi. New valve new run no worky above 100 psi, so you can see I installed a regulator before the auto drain valve ........ Problem solved. Another side note for anyone interested is using this auto drain kit notice I used about a foot of the plastic line and the rest copper. This fixes another problem the plastic line supplied can melt and blow off. This did happen to be a few years back FYI.
View attachment 251989
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Mr onetwo
Well-known member
I just scored this compressor for $100 and 2 hours road time.It's an italian made 2 stage Sanborn B6000 pump,7.5 HP Westinghouse HE motor on an Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon tank.28CFM @ 100PSI and 24CFM @ 175PSI.Not bad IMHO!
The plan is to put the tank up in the air over my current setup and mount the pump/motor on a wheeled cart and plug it into my existing system in tandem when I want to sand blast.Will give me a total of almost 40CFM.
.Not bad IMHO! The plan is to put the tank up in the air over my current setup and mount the pump/motor on a wheeled cart and plug it into my existing system in tandem when I want to sand blast.Will give me a total of almost 40CFM.Attachments
I took an 8 gallon wheelbarrow compressor and made a 30 galllon compressor. The belt guard is home made. 15 cfm at 175 psi. It is constant run or start-stop. I had to make it small because I don't have much room in my shed for it to fit in.
Attachments
37ford4dr
Well-known member
Estate Sale Score
I scored this devilbis 2 weeks ago at an estate sale it was actually my neighbor and i had 1st dibs before the sale picked it up for $450 and still had original oil in it and air filter and neither one really needed changing but i did, the black max i cleaned up and sold on craigslist 2 days later for $450
I scored this devilbis 2 weeks ago at an estate sale it was actually my neighbor and i had 1st dibs before the sale picked it up for $450 and still had original oil in it and air filter and neither one really needed changing but i did, the black max i cleaned up and sold on craigslist 2 days later for $450
Attachments
1Garageman
Well-known member
Re: Estate Sale Score
Great deal!!!
Great find with an air compressor that puts out 17.4 SCFM @ 100PSI.
The price you paid for it, and the price you sold yours for
Great deal!!!
Great find with an air compressor that puts out 17.4 SCFM @ 100PSI.
The price you paid for it, and the price you sold yours for
I'm kind of learning as I go, but I know I'd like to have a sandblasting/powdercoating setup in my basement in the next 6 months or so. A good compressor is the foundation to sandblasting and a home shop in general, so I'm starting there.
Any opinions on this 80 gallon 18 cfm single phase? Is he asking too much?
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/3796502292.html
Any opinions on this 80 gallon 18 cfm single phase? Is he asking too much?
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/3796502292.html
Same here in Louisiana, but I'm going to try a coalescing filter and a home made desiccant dryer to trap the moisture.
DirtRoad
Well-known member
Husky from Home Depot, LOVE IT
Thanks to a member i was able to add solberg mufflers. Went from 68DB to 63db.
Thanks to a member i was able to add solberg mufflers. Went from 68DB to 63db.
mayday0017
Well-known member
Got my new compressor all together and tested it out last night.
Speedaire (Champion) 1WD61 compressor - Champion RV-15B pump with Dayton 7.5hp motor. Lucked out like it was ment to be... Bought the compressor with broken pump for $150 and found a brand new old stock exact part number pump for $350. So $500 for a 2002 Champion compressor rebranded by Grainger as Speedaire.
Very happy with how quiet it is, 0 to 175 psi in 8 min, and 145-175 in under 3 minutes. It should last me a lifetime and hopefully I can sell my Craftsman 80gal 5hp unit that I bought 8ish months ago for what I paid for this one.
View media item 30740
Speedaire (Champion) 1WD61 compressor - Champion RV-15B pump with Dayton 7.5hp motor. Lucked out like it was ment to be... Bought the compressor with broken pump for $150 and found a brand new old stock exact part number pump for $350. So $500 for a 2002 Champion compressor rebranded by Grainger as Speedaire.
Very happy with how quiet it is, 0 to 175 psi in 8 min, and 145-175 in under 3 minutes. It should last me a lifetime and hopefully I can sell my Craftsman 80gal 5hp unit that I bought 8ish months ago for what I paid for this one.
View media item 30740
oldguard
Member
My new NAPA compressor is quite the upgrade from my first I bought new from sears, a 4hp 20gal back in 1982. A home use 5hp 60gal with a cfm of 17 is very good for my little shop. Years ago I figured out a cool little helper as well, I drilled two holes in the side of my icebox and put in a coiled up 3/8 copper roll 25' long. I used compression fittings and attatched one end to mu compressor and the other to my filter drier and then to the wall air line, really simple and NO moisture in the line. Only drawback if you will is that on a long hard day of air use, the fridge is trying to keep it cool and the beer tends to get just a little iced by days end!
HAP
Well-known member
My new NAPA compressor is quite the upgrade from my first I bought new from sears, a 4hp 20gal back in 1982. A home use 5hp 60gal with a cfm of 17 is very good for my little shop. Years ago I figured out a cool little helper as well, I drilled two holes in the side of my icebox and put in a coiled up 3/8 copper roll 25' long. I used compression fittings and attatched one end to mu compressor and the other to my filter drier and then to the wall air line, really simple and NO moisture in the line. Only drawback if you will is that on a long hard day of air use, the fridge is trying to keep it cool and the beer tends to get just a little iced by days end!
Just curious where your condensed water accumulates or gets drained?
R,
HAP
oldguard
Member
As it comes out of the copper coil, I have my filter drier regulator combo there, never a hint past it. I have a 2 liter bottle on the bottom of filter drier to catch the moisture so I don't have a mess on the floor.
danny_barkley
Well-known member
Awesome Deal!
94m5
Member
Just got ahold of my Grandpa's old Kellogg 321. Not sure on CFM output, but after I finish rebuilding the pump (and the spare unit as well) It'll serve me for a LONG time.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Man, one of these days it would be nice to upgrade from my cheap-o Craftsman to a nice Kellogg American or Saylor Beall....
Jim Johnstone
Well-known member
Just got ahold of my Grandpa's old Kellogg 321. Not sure on CFM output, but after I finish rebuilding the pump (and the spare unit as well) It'll serve me for a LONG time.
Sooooo you wanna sell me the spare unit? I would love to get 321 pump. Very nice machines.
Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2
Here is my Saylor Beall. I got it off eBay and have been cleaning it up over the past few weeks. I put a new 7.5 HP single phase motor on it and am currently waiting for a new check valve to show up. The tank is in good shape and the pump looks to be in good shape also. Should be a great unit when I'm done.
JACC0811
Member
fury9
Well-known member
Just got ahold of my Grandpa's old Kellogg 321. Not sure on CFM output, but after I finish rebuilding the pump (and the spare unit as well) It'll serve me for a LONG time.
I have a working 321tv pump and an OLD 2hp motor in good working condition if you're interested, can pm pics depending on pump rpm cfm is around 8-10
