Compressor after cooler

[AP514]

hum...still looking at the Cx cooler for my 60 Gal Husky(reviews say it gets hot)
I just got it from HDepot...thinking a longer run of Braded ss line might help with temps going into the cooler. I was looking at this CX cooler. I am going to give them a call to see what the temp rating is on this one. http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...roduct_Code=OC-248-25-AN10&Category_Code=RDOC

 

[Chadwilliam1]

put a fan on it.

 

[AP514]

put a fan on it.

Well, I will put a fan on it and I know this is an older thread but....

If reading through this thread you will see the CX cooler listed gave out. (due to high heat melting the solder joints going into Cooler).

I have been thinking that the 2 coolers are about the same..same solder used also...

Anyone have some Ideas on what types of good lines I can us from the pump to the cooler ?

REMEMBER Im on a shoe string budget

 

[LG63]

Anyone have some Ideas on what types of good lines I can us from the pump to the cooler ?

REMEMBER Im on a shoe string budget

Ebay is a good source for all metal braided lines. My advice on the budget is to wait until you have the money to do it right. Air-to-air coolers are available thru Zoro for under $200 if you catch one of their 25% off deals.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

My advice on the budget is to wait until you have the money to do it right. Air-to-air coolers are available thru Zoro for under $200 if you catch one of their 25% off deals.

Link please.

 

[LG63]

Link please.

The first three in listed in this table: Zoro

Edit: I messed up the link, you'll need to hit the Clear Selection button on the table.

 

[brianpgriset]

I used copper with no issues yet. Also as mentioned, Alan's CX cooler did fail but mine is still kicking. The major difference is my compressor is two state and discharge temps don't get as high. That said, I'd agree with LG63, get the one from Zoro.

I would've but I wasn't Zoro aware at the time I made it.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

The first three in listed in this table: Zoro

Edit: I messed up the link, you'll need to hit the Clear Selection button on the table.

Thanks

 

[AP514]

Well, that AKG cooler has no real INFO on it...I have looked and it does not state any place the BTU's it will remove.
Also it is kind of WONKY in the Sizes 16 x 5...and at $170 bucks thats my whole budget..


Still hope'n for a few replys.....
The Deisl oil cooler one $139...
and Ebay for Fans

I have time so I will look for a deal....

 

[72Anthony]

Well, that AKG cooler has no real INFO on it...I have looked and it does not state any place the BTU's it will remove.
Also it is kind of WONKY in the Sizes 16 x 5...

See the attached sheet directly from AKG Thermal Systems.

The unit is rated for at:
5 deg F approach temperature at 18 SCFM
15 deg F approach temperature at 35 SCFM

The approach temperature is the difference above ambient. So, if it is an ambient temperature of 95 deg F, flowing 18 SCFM, the outlet of the aftercooler will be 95 + 5 = 100 deg F.

Unless you are running more than 10 HP, you will be fine. These things are purpose built (max pressure of 250 psig, max temperature of 400 deg F, and have 1" NPT connections).

I wonder if these are the same aftercoolers supplied on the "fully packaged" units from Quincy, IR, etc?

 

[AP514]

No just running a small 60Gal Husky single stage....

The oil cooler is out....they will not tell me if i can use it for Air...(the standard CYA...not made for that APP.)

 

[AP514]

Well, just scored a ebm papst fan off of EBAY for $35...(now for the COOLER) It has a broken start Capasitor (where it mounts)but still works

http://www.newark.com/ebm-papst/w2e...K9799?ost=EBM+PAPST+W2E250-HJ32-01+AXIAL+FAN,

 

[AP514]

OK got a Few questions
1) about Isolating my Tank from the main plumbing I plan on putting in the shop..............

what type of line do you guys use ? 1/2 Braided line ?? hydro line ?? any thoughts on this ?

2) im looking into the B&M cooler that Lametec was using....wonder if it is still working for him ?

 

[lametec]

My cooler setup is still working without any problems at all.

 

[AP514]

My cooler setup is still working without any problems at all.

Great.....Im going to pull the Trigger on the B&M oil cooler. I called them and confirmed that the cooler can take hight temps. "oven brazed construction" the site said and the tech guy said temps can get up into the 700F range. So, IM good with that...really only think my max temp will be in the lower 330F. B&M- MED COOLER #70266

Still looking for a flex/braided line to go from Tank to my hard copper Shop lines (for Vibration).....ANY help/links would be great

 

[buening]

I used a hydraulic hose from my local Rural King store for the flex line between my tank and the iron piping on the walls. I bought a 3' or 4' hose so that I could pull my compressor out and sweep under it or work on it.

 

[HAP]

TP Tools has what you need. I got my SS braided line there.

R,
HAP

Great.....Im going to pull the Trigger on the B&M oil cooler. I called them and confirmed that the cooler can take hight temps. "oven brazed construction" the site said and the tech guy said temps can get up into the 700F range. So, IM good with that...really only think my max temp will be in the lower 330F. B&M- MED COOLER #70266

Still looking for a flex/braided line to go from Tank to my hard copper Shop lines (for Vibration).....ANY help/links would be great

 

[p1mlb03]

Great.....Im going to pull the Trigger on the B&M oil cooler. I called them and confirmed that the cooler can take hight temps. "oven brazed construction" the site said and the tech guy said temps can get up into the 700F range. So, IM good with that...really only think my max temp will be in the lower 330F. B&M- MED COOLER #70266

Still looking for a flex/braided line to go from Tank to my hard copper Shop lines (for Vibration).....ANY help/links would be great

I had a hydro line made at a local supply house. See post #21 last pic for ref.

 

[AP514]

Well, now I am looking to figure out some type of RELAY to work w/ my 110v fan. So when compressor runs the fan will too.

Im looking at maybe a tank PSI switch that has 2 independent contacts.
1 to hook up the 230v for compressor and the other for the 110v for the fan.
OR
Some type of contact relay...

any suggestions and or Links ??

 

[COSMOS]

I cheated and tapped into the starter switch for my cooling fans. I also have switch mounted in the starter switch for off and on so I do not have to use the disconnect.

See post 1829

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4901

 

[AP514]

I cheated and tapped into the starter switch for my cooling fans. I also have switch mounted in the starter switch for off and on so I do not have to use the disconnect.

See post 1829

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4901

So I am still looking for some help on what type of relay or set up I can use.....I have the 230v hard wired to my compressor...I can pull a 115v from an outlet very close to the compressor.. OR a Pressure switch that has an extra set of contactors.
I will keep searching

 

[AP514]

update..Im just going to run a 10/3 MC to a cut-off box next to my compressor..Can not seem to get any MC in 10/3 Stranded(10ft) to run from cut-off box to compressor. So I guess I will run some type of power cord (10/3(4wire)) to the pressure switch. still holding out hope I can find a short run of MC 10/3

 

[Durka]

So why are you guys screwing with after coolers ? You guys hate Stainless or Black iron that much ? After coolers at the compressor rob SCFM's and promote pressure loss.

Perhaps some are mixing aftercoolers up with intercoolers?

With Black Iron or Stainless, 95% of your vapor is taken care within the first 8' and dumped to a cleanout, -when plumbed correctly of course.

I guess if you have a production line in your garage, it may come in handy with high demand from a weak system.The only type of sweat joints allowed professionally are with Silver solder,- for low pressure air anyway. That's what these type of compressors are considered to be, "low pressure" (case your unaware).

I guess I don't see why someone would go through that much trouble vs a much simpler way that has proven itself over and over again,- since way back when ?

All you really need is a desiccant membrane @ station end with the correct plumbing. That's to catch the 5% of air born moisture that may still remain in the lines, supposedly. Very low maintenance that way as well. After two years and many paint jobs, my desiccant still hasn't needed to be recharged.

Just curious about how all this got started, I guess. (?)

 

[HAP]

So why are you guys screwing with after coolers ? You guys hate Stainless or Black iron that much ? After coolers at the compressor rob SCFM's and promote pressure loss.

Perhaps some are mixing aftercoolers up with intercoolers?

With Black Iron or Stainless, 95% of your vapor is taken care within the first 8' and dumped to a cleanout, -when plumbed correctly of course.

I guess if you have a production line in your garage, it may come in handy with high demand from a weak system.The only type of sweat joints allowed professionally are with Silver solder,- for low pressure air anyway. That's what these type of compressors are considered to be, "low pressure" (case your unaware).

I guess I don't see why someone would go through that much trouble vs a much simpler way that has proven itself over and over again,- since way back when ?

All you really need is a desiccant membrane @ station end with the correct plumbing. That's to catch the 5% of air born moisture that may still remain in the lines, supposedly. Very low maintenance that way as well. After two years and many paint jobs, my desiccant still hasn't needed to be recharged.

Just curious about how all this got started, I guess. (?)

Well, I guess you've got it all figured out for MI.
Why didn't we just ask you from the start???

 

[Durka]

Thanks for the confirmation

Thought I was missing something. Wouldn't be the first time.

 

[nine4gmc]

So why are you guys screwing with after coolers ? You guys hate Stainless or Black iron that much ? After coolers at the compressor rob SCFM's and promote pressure loss.

Perhaps some are mixing aftercoolers up with intercoolers?

With Black Iron or Stainless, 95% of your vapor is taken care within the first 8' and dumped to a cleanout, -when plumbed correctly of course.

I guess if you have a production line in your garage, it may come in handy with high demand from a weak system.The only type of sweat joints allowed professionally are with Silver solder,- for low pressure air anyway. That's what these type of compressors are considered to be, "low pressure" (case your unaware).

I guess I don't see why someone would go through that much trouble vs a much simpler way that has proven itself over and over again,- since way back when ?

All you really need is a desiccant membrane @ station end with the correct plumbing. That's to catch the 5% of air born moisture that may still remain in the lines, supposedly. Very low maintenance that way as well. After two years and many paint jobs, my desiccant still hasn't needed to be recharged.

Just curious about how all this got started, I guess. (?)

Pics of your system?

 

[AP514]

Yes, DURKA show us your great system.....

 

[buening]

Durka is simply stating the iron or copper pipe system going to your drops is removing the moisture for you due to the large surface area of the piping. This drops the air temps which condenses the water vapor before it reaches your paint gun. An after cooler (cooler between the tank and the pipe network) alone has a much smaller surface area than the total pipe surface area, but will drop temps down to ambient quicker than just piping. An intercooler, however, drops the temps before the air hits the tank. It installs between the pump and the tank, and helps minimize the moisture going into the tank by condensing some of the water and catching it prior to going into the tank. This results in longer tank life, typically. Unless you are dropping the temps below ambient, you really aren't gaining much by having a cooler in the system beside moisture being removed earlier in the system. Aftercoolers with a good fan has the potential to drop temps below ambient depending on your tank size and CFM being used.

Thats my take on it though

BTW, I wanna see pics of a stainless air network!

 

[HAP]

Durka is simply stating the iron or copper pipe system going to your drops is removing the moisture for you due to the large surface area of the piping. This drops the air temps which condenses the water vapor before it reaches your paint gun. An after cooler (cooler between the tank and the pipe network) alone has a much smaller surface area than the total pipe surface area, but will drop temps down to ambient quicker than just piping. An intercooler, however, drops the temps before the air hits the tank. It installs between the pump and the tank, and helps minimize the moisture going into the tank by condensing some of the water and catching it prior to going into the tank. This results in longer tank life, typically. Unless you are dropping the temps below ambient, you really aren't gaining much by having a cooler in the system beside moisture being removed earlier in the system. Aftercoolers with a good fan has the potential to drop temps below ambient depending on your tank size and CFM being used.

Thats my take on it though

BTW, I wanna see pics of a stainless air network!

Pretty sure most understand this concept. We all seem to have our own version of systems due to the high cost of an add-on store bought unit.

R,
HAP

 

[AP514]

Well, it has been awhile...finally getting my Cooler installed this weekend. (if life does not get in the way.......)

1) I went with a Ebm-Papst FAN....http://www.onlinecomponents.com/ebm-papst-w2e250hj3201.html?p=12104374. Got it off Ebay (see post #212 this thread)
2) Got my wiring from C/B to compressor done and Disconnect installed. http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260373
some pics

 

[AP514]

Continued from above
I ran 4 wires..the neutral is for the Fan and will pull power from 1 leg of the Compressor at the pressure switch(that way fan comes on with Compressor.Also going to change out the wire nut for a Ground Bar. http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260373
some pics

 

[AP514]

Worked on intercooler Saturday...got the mount made up and the Fan mounted. Got a few wires to run but almost ready to test the Fan. pic 9 shows the C/B Box for my Fan Fuse (3.2a)

 

[Buddy Boy]

Hey AP514, Your after cooler is coming along very nicely...It Looks Great.

Keep up the good work.

Take Care

 

[f575gtc]

Does a 2 Stage need this? The pump I just bought has two coolers on it before exiting the pump...

 

[AP514]

Does a 2 Stage need this? The pump I just bought has two coolers on it before exiting the pump...

Lets see a picture of it ?

 

[f575gtc]

Well its a cast iron finned chamber between the first and 2nd piston and another one exiting the 2nd piston. They are small so I doubt they will cool much.

Any updates on the CXracing cooler? My pump has 3/4 NPT outlets so going to an 1/2 inch cooler won't be a good idea.

Instead of running through an intercooler, can't you run the outlet of the pump into a iron pipe T and make a 1 inch diameter drip leg with another outlet out the top of the pipe so as the pump's air hits the open space it expands and cools down before going into the tank?

Or would the bigger size decompress the air too much before entering the tank? Almost like the franzinator, but before the tank, not after it.

 

[AP514]

Well here we are my final pictures of my INTERCOOLER..Works great. Compressor System rocking now..can sandblast the pool chairs and table this winter then prime and paint..Woot

got the T6-6061 Aluminum from Ebay..3/8 X .028 thick but plenty for only 150 PSI max... http://www.ebay.com/usr/themetalmerchant_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2754
I asked for the lenght I wanted and they set up a EBAY bid just for me..


figure I got $180 into the Intercooler part of the build.(the cooler was the big purchase at around $90ish)

 

[Buddy Boy]

I'm Glad it's working great for you...It sure looks good. It gives me something to look forward to. I'm still behind you on my intercooler build but I'm very happy with what I have to date. AP514, Thanks for your help it is appreciated.

I would also like to thank all the people in the Compressor and After Cooler sections
Because just by reading and looking at the pictures. My After Cooler wouldn't be in process. This wouldn't be possible with out all you folks. I am mechanically inclined but I just had no idea that it went this deep. I am very happy that I am able to do this to prolong the life of my compressor and the bonus is having dry air right from the beginning of my system.

I really could have used a welder for this project but I guess this is something else I have to look forward to.

So thank you all very much,
Buddy

 

[mark52621]

Durka is simply stating the iron or copper pipe system going to your drops is removing the moisture for you due to the large surface area of the piping. This drops the air temps which condenses the water vapor before it reaches your paint gun. An after cooler (cooler between the tank and the pipe network) alone has a much smaller surface area than the total pipe surface area, but will drop temps down to ambient quicker than just piping. An intercooler, however, drops the temps before the air hits the tank. It installs between the pump and the tank, and helps minimize the moisture going into the tank by condensing some of the water and catching it prior to going into the tank. This results in longer tank life, typically. Unless you are dropping the temps below ambient, you really aren't gaining much by having a cooler in the system beside moisture being removed earlier in the system. Aftercoolers with a good fan has the potential to drop temps below ambient depending on your tank size and CFM being used.

Thats my take on it though

BTW, I wanna see pics of a stainless air network!

You are 99% there. Here is just a little clarification.

An intercooler is between stages of compression in the compressor. These are the finned pipes between pistons on two stage compressors. They drop air temperature some but not enough to remove moisture.

An aftercooler can be before or after the tank, but is always after and separate from the compressor.

Air cooled aftercoolers can only go to ambient temperature not below. To get dew points below ambient you need desiccant-water-refridgerated cooler.

In the summer in Iowa metal piping isn't enough. Without some sort of aftercooler I will be blowing water out of my air tools. I'm sure the further south you go the worse it is.

 

[AP514]

You are 99% there. Here is just a little clarification.


Air cooled aftercoolers can only go to ambient temperature not below. To get dew points below ambient you need desiccant-water-refridgerated cooler.

I Disagree...(Ambient or close is fine) My cooler is getting a **** load of water out.

Sorry but the reason I built this Cooler system is to NOT pay $500 buck for a Refer system....Im $300 bucks ahead..Woot


P.S. still no pic's of your system...wonder why