Compressor after cooler

[p1mlb03]

I just installed an 80gal 5hp(Baldor) Kellog American compressor in my shop. It produces 20cfm @ 100psi. I'm in the process of designing the plumbing and was thinking of building some type of after cooler. After looking around on the net I ran across this unit from Grainger for $105. My compressor seems to fall within the specs of this unit and for $105 I don't think I could build something for less. Anyone own or have knowledge of this unit? Pros cons, thoughts? Thanks, Mike


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...eumatics-_-Air Compressor Accessories-_-5Z757

 

[bgott]

$105 is awfully cheap. I'd like to put my hands on one before I committed. It might be worth paying the restocking fee just to look at one up close. If it is a quality piece it would be well worth the money.

 

[Mickey O]

The thing sounds like it was made for your compressor, buy it and install it. Choose where you install it carefully, it will heat the area where it's installed, great in the winter, not so great in the summer. Maybe a duct to the outside for the summer.

 

[bmwpower]

Wow that looks nice. And it has a built in fan. I wonder how loud it is? Is there a drain on it to drain all the water it collects?

In case the item goes bye-bye from their site...

Grainger Item # 5Z757
Price (ea.) $105.45
Brand THERMAL TRANSFER
Mfr. Model # UPA-20-81405
Ship Qty. 1
Sell Qty. (Will-Call) 1
Ship Weight (lbs.) 24.35
Usually Ships** While Stock Lasts
Catalog Page No. 3253
Country of Origin USA

 

[lametec]

This is just an aftercooler. It doesn't collect the water. You'll need a drain to collect/drain the water as it exits the cooler. This can be as easy as a drip leg with a ball valve, or an auto-drain of sorts.

I built my own using an oil cooler, a 220V fan and an auto-drain. I spent about $130 ($30 of it being for the auto drain), so this is definitely a good deal.

Regular price on this cooler is $450.

Product info from the mfg: http://www.thermaltransfer.com/pdf/series-refs/UPA-Series.pdf

 

[p1mlb03]

I called and ordered the unit from Grainger this AM. It is a discontinued item, they found 1 up in the NE. They are shipping it direct to my house for a total of $123, not bad. She did mention that there was one out in Calif if anyone is interested. My compressor is install under a 8 x 20 shed roof off the back of my home shop. The aftercooler will get installed beside the compressor so noise is not an issue for this install. I saw that unit for $105 an I thought I can't go wrong, not a big gamble at all.
Thanks for the replies, Mike

 

[bmwpower]

I called and ordered the unit from Grainger this AM. It is a discontinued item, they found 1 up in the NE. They are shipping it direct to my house for a total of $123, not bad. She did mention that there was one out in Calif if anyone is interested. My compressor is install under a 8 x 20 shed roof off the back of my home shop. The aftercooler will get installed beside the compressor so noise is not an issue for this install. I saw that unit for $105 an I thought I can't go wrong, not a big gamble at all.
Thanks for the replies, Mike

Please post picts when you get it and/or install it.

 

[lametec]

The only noise that will be coming from it is fan noise, so negligible compared to the compressor.

 

[Shocker]

Can't beat that. In for one.

 

[Vinko]

Nice. Don't think it would work for my Saylor Beall 120 gal. with 7.5hp (also a Baldor), but still looking for deals.

 

[p1mlb03]

I received the aftercooler today. It is a well built unit, made in the USA to boot. I'm going to try and start the install today or tomorrow. Thinking about suspending it from overhead with the included leg kit or build a cradle threaded rod type device to support it. (note: Cooling fins in front view pic look like they are bent, they are not, I guess it's the reflection from flash)

Since the inlet / outlet are on the same side would you guys mount it on it's side so that the inlet is at the top and outlet at the bottom to aid in the draining? The Catalog pic shows the fittings one on top and one on the bottom which makes more sense to me. If I mount it as designed both fittings will be at the top, I would think that water could/would be trapped in the cooler this way. Any thoughts , Ideas?
Thanks, Mike

 

[txz28]

Since the inlet / outlet are on the same side would you guys mount it on it's side so that the inlet is at the top and outlet at the bottom to aid in the draining? The Catalog pic shows the fittings one on top and one on the bottom which makes more sense to me. If I mount it as designed both fittings will be at the top, I would think that water could/would be trapped in the cooler this way. Any thoughts , Ideas?
Thanks, Mike

I would probably mount it so the inlet and outlet were on the bottom. The the outlet can drain to whatever collection method you have (oversized pipe with a drain valve would be good). The inlet can drain back into the compressor tank or leave a valve to manually drain it. Take a look and pick the direction with the least potential for pockets that cannot drain.

You do not want the water to leave a pocket in the cooler itself (or anywhere else in a metal piping system) so that it cannot be drained. You can have two problems with water pockets. First you can have accelerated corrosion leading to premature failure in the area with water pockets. Second, it depends where you live, you could also have a freezing problem with an outdoor mounting as you described. I would probably not have problem two here in southeast Texas very often.

 

[lametec]

I would mount it vertically so that the inlet is on top, outlet on bottom. This is how I mounted mine.

Since mine is inline between the pump and tank, it's was important to make sure there's no way water could drain back to the pump. I figured having the intake on top would be the easiest way to assure that didn't happen. It also made for the neatest pipe routing.

 

[p1mlb03]

Thanks for the suggestions fellows...
Lametec, I found the pics of your setup, I like the idea of cooling prior to the tank. I read your comment about your fan starting with the compressor. The fan motor on my cooler is duel voltage and my Compressor has a mag starter. Could you tell me how to wire that setup? The 230v wire diagram on the motor has:
Black - Line
White - Line
Blue / red - INS
Orange - INS
Green - Grnd
I assume the blue / red and orange are for switching (IDK what INS stands for) and would be connected to the pressure switch some way. Also, are you pushing the air back across the compressor or are you pulling it?
Attached your pics for others to ref.
Thanks, mike

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I would not attempt to use the magnetic starter to supply power to the fan of the cooler. The starter has a heater element that is sized to the motor, and is designed so the heater will overheat and trip off the motor if there is an overload. It simulates an overheated motor. If you tap the fan power off of the starter, you will probably overload the heater and have it tripping off. Doing this also leaves the fan circuit essentially unprotected, as the only circuit breaker is the big one, 40 or 50 amps, whatever you are using, and if the small wires to the fan or the fan motor itself burns up, the breaker may not trip. The fan need circuit protection sized to it.

A better idea is that the pressure switch usually has two sets of contacts, and you are only using one set. You could run a circuit thru the other set to either switch the power to the fan on and off (powering the fan from another source, but thru the pressure switch contacts) or use the extra contacts to operate a relay that powers the fan.

Charles

 

[lametec]

Not sure what INS means, but usually when switching voltages on motors you have to join some of the wires together.

Here's a pic for illustration (note, not for your motor, just to show what I mean):

If you post a picture of the label on your fan we might be able to tell you how to wire it.

As for running the fan through the mag starter, it only draws just over 1 amp, so I would give it a try. I doubt it would cause any tripping issues. You can add an inline 5A fuse to protect the fan.

I mounted my fan so that the air blows away from the compressor. I didn't want to blow hot air across the motor and pump. In actual use, though, there's very little hot air coming from the fan. Only the very top of the cooler gets warm, and the rest is pretty much room temp.

 

[norry]

Oh, this sounds awesome. No more routing the air hose through a garbage can filled with ice water! Already have a moisture separator and all... thanks Grainger, and thanks, OP!

 

[bmwpower]

This is how it's installed according to their site:

Not sure I agree with that, but...

Digging deeper into their site...if it's mounted verticle, put the inlet/outlet facing down as someone said before....

http://www.thermaltransfer.com/pdf/series-refs/UPA-Series.pdf

 

[p1mlb03]

Thanks guys,
I think I figured the wiring out today. I went to Ace Hardware and picked up the wiring supplies this afternoon. I built a hanger for the cooler out of some angle and then welded the included legs on the hanger and made some brackets that will allow me to bolt the cooler from the rafter over the compressor, that way the cooler will be isolated from the vibration (that will put the cooler at about the same height as the pump on the compressor) I'm going to the local industrial hose shop and get them to build a couple flex lines to run from the compressor to the cooler and back to the tank. I will post some pics of the final install when it is complete. Then I will move on to plumbing the shop.

 

[Shocker]

Pics please!

 

[p1mlb03]

Well I finally finished the cooler install as well as plumbing the shop. I'm happy with the results, it looks good and no leaks at all. Pressure tested at 175psi for several days, gauge never moved, thought for sure I would have to fix at least one leak. Anyway, I built a hanger for the cooler so I could hang it from the rafter of the lean to so there would be little vibration running through the cooler. I used 3/4 braided SS lines to plumb the cooler with a 3/4 Dixon water separator with auto drain (part # F74G-6A-MB)on the exit of the cooler to remove most water prior to the tank. (thanks to Lametech for the idea) I picked up the 240v for the fan off of the contactor in the mag starter so the fan will cycle with the compressor. The fitting on the inlet side of the cooler gets too hot to touch. The oulet side is cold to the touch, I don't have an I/R temp gun so I dont have the numbers. I used 1" hydro line for the flex line between the compressor and the 1" copper line into the shop. Ran the 1" through the garage and used 1/2" to the drops with cutoff valves at each; brazing each joint in the system. Also installed a multistage filter / dryer / reg (the unit HTP sells. Just FYI, the catalog shows a 1Qt dryer but now they are 2qt for the same price, $330) to support plasma, painting and blasting. I did not hard pipe the filter setup so I could easily move it to another drop or take it offsite with my plasma. I found a brand new Norgren FRL on CL for $20. I set it up the same way so I can move it to where ever I'm working, It will never have any oil in it, that is for sure. I guess I could take the oiler off, but I don't think it is hurting anything as long as it is oil free. I think I read on the 'show your compressor' thread someone making a comment to the affect that plumbing a compressor will cost as much or more then the compressor. They are 100% correct, it will cost more then you think. I know I could have done it much cheaper without the cooler and all the extra lines and fittings but it only hurts for little while, til the next project comes along. All in all, I think I have a good setup that can provide more clean, dry, oil free air then I will need, which was the goal from the start. I've already had a wimp compressor, so I knew from the start that any compressor that I bought would have more capacity then I think I will ever need, 20cfm @ 100psi should do anything I will ever need or want to do.

 

[p1mlb03]

Here is a couple shots of the hanger I made for the cooler:

Here is the dryer set up from HTP: (An yes I have already replaced the under sized mounting hardware; all I had at midnight )

 

[brokenknee]

No longer available

 

[p1mlb03]

Re: No longer available

Yeah I know, I called Grainger and the lady looked on the system and found one on the shelf in another state. Shipped direct to the house for $123.

 

[brokenknee]

Looks like you got a great deal. I see it was originally listed for $450

 

[p1mlb03]

A couple more

 

[p1mlb03]

Re: Compressor after cooler

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looks like you got a great deal. I see it was originally listed for $450


I don't think I would have paid 450 for it. I would have made something that would do the job for less then 450, but for 105 plus ship I couldn't have made anything for less then that.

 

[luvmyhondas]

sweet setup. I burnt the SHYT out of myself on the outlet side of my compressor once.

 

[p1mlb03]

I thought I would share my method of moving a 530lb compressor. Don't recall ever seeing anyone use this method. The compressor was mounted on the factory skid. I needed to move it from my shop to the lean to out behind the garage. That meant moving it over grass, soft ground. I went to the rental store and looked around and saw a piano dolly, took a closer look and thought this would do the trick. Worked out great, I moved it by myself from the garage to the lean to. Just needed the dolly and 2 sheets of OSB/plywood to roll t on a a few ratchet straps to hold the dolly in place. Two or four people could use this to pick the whole thing up with the handles. If you are ever looking for an easy way to move / roll a compressor or other heavy machine on a skid this could be the ticket.

 

[Shocker]

Looks great. So, the fan comes on when the compressor turns on? Could that be wired on a compressor without a mag starter?

 

[p1mlb03]

Looks great. So, the fan comes on when the compressor turns on? Could that be wired on a compressor without a mag starter?

Yes the fan cycles with the compressor, you should be able to set it up without the mag starter. I think Lametec's setup does not have a mag starter and he has his wired to cycle with the compressor. Early in this thread, Charles posted a suggestion to create a circuit though the pressure switch using the second set of contacts. The fan motor on my setup is duel voltage, so I wanted to use the 240v setup. Charles suggested that I not use the starter to operate the motor due to the heater element, which makes sense. However, I picked up the power from the contactor which is upstream from the element. (see pic of mag starter a few posts up) I have run the compressor through many cycles in use and testing without any problems.

 

[Shocker]

Alrighty, sounds easy enough. I do have another question.

I have the same unit that you have (thanks for showing it!). For cooling the air, wouldn't you want the fan to be running while using the tools instead of just when the compressor comes on?

Does the charge in the tank drop in temp quickly enough to no be a problem after the cooler/water filter?

Does having the fan on the cooler run at the time of compression enough to cool the charge to allow water removal at the filter right after the cooler?

Thanks!

 

[p1mlb03]

I have the same unit that you have (thanks for showing it!). For cooling the air, wouldn't you want the fan to be running while using the tools instead of just when the compressor comes on?
--------------------------------
The way I have mine plumbed the air exits the pump, enters the cooler to be cooled, exits the cooler and hits the water separator and on to the tank. So to answer your question, no, in my case the air has already been cooled and most moisture removed prior to going in the tank. (it will not pass through the cooler again, so the fan running will not make any diff) It leaves the tank cool and will pass through my multistage filter dryer for the final conditioning. I also have drops that do not pass through the dryer for general use, blow guns , tires, etc. You can plumb it so the air exits the tank then through the cooler and on to your filters, in which case you would want to run the fan while using tools. I wanted to get rid of most of the water prior to going to the tank, and I wanted the fan operation to more automated so that I do not have to deal with turning it on an off, it's up to you how you want it to operate.
-------------------------------

Does the charge in the tank drop in temp quickly enough to no be a problem after the cooler/water filter?

This cooler seems to be very efficient, you can not touch the inlet side after a couple cycles and the outlet side is cold. I want to get a hold of a temp gun so I can see the swing.

---------------------------------

Does having the fan on the cooler run at the time of compression enough to cool the charge to allow water removal at the filter right after the cooler?

Yes, I have watched my filter's auto drain spit out the water during the cycling. What ever uncondensed moisture makes it past the first sperator, will have to pass through another set of filters and then to the dryer which will remove any uncondensed moisture.

Hope that helps, post up some pics of your setup once you get it installed

 

[Shocker]

Ok, now I get it! Thanks for the detailed info. I still need to get my compressor and plumb the lines! I grabbed up the cooler due to it's low cost.

I am on the prowl for a nice compressor now. Hopefully I will find a great unit like other on the board have.

 

[p1mlb03]

Ok, now I get it! Thanks for the detailed info. I still need to get my compressor and plumb the lines! I grabbed up the cooler due to it's low cost.

I am on the prowl for a nice compressor now. Hopefully I will find a great unit like other on the board have.

If your looking for a compresor I would do my best to stay away from the china stuff. If you look, you can find US made equipment, that you can buy every part for, for about what they want for a new cheap under powered china compressor,that has odd ball threads on fittings,cheap electric motors, and no place to buy parts. Also, I would look for a 2 stage compressor (Not the same as 2 cyl) that will produce more air then you think you willl need. You will be much happier down the road if you wait for the right deal on the right compressor. Good luck finding what you want...

 

[lametec]

This cooler seems to be very efficient, you can not touch the inlet side after a couple cycles and the outlet side is cold. I want to get a hold of a temp gun so I can see the swing.

I measured the intake temperature (on the outside surface of the inlet of the cooler) to be over 310°F using an infrared thermometer. The outlet temperature measured the same way never went above 96°F. That's a drop of 214°F. Ambient temperature was about 86°F.

 

[p1mlb03]

I measured the intake temperature (on the outside surface of the inlet of the cooler) to be over 310°F using an infrared thermometer. The outlet temperature measured the same way never went above 96°F. That's a drop of 214°F. Ambient temperature was about 86°F.

Wow, that is alot, 214* drop is nice. I know the top of my tank use to get hot before I installed the cooler, now it is nice and cool. I may break down an get an I/R temp gun. I have a digital thermometer with a probe that I use for my Big Green Eggs (Smokers). I may try that just to see what I get.
Thanks again Lametec for your help on this project, it turned out great.

Mike

 

[Shocker]

Roger that advice there p1mlb03. I am leaning towards the CH 80 gallon at Lowes.

 

[cj8lvr]

I called Grainger and they're all gone...nationwide.
Any ideas on an alternative but similar design AND PRICE?

 

[lametec]

What I did:

B&M model 70266 automotive oil cooler ($75 @ Amazon.com)
EBM Pabst model W2E250-HL06-01 230V AC fan ($25 @ eBay)
Wilkerson model X01-04-M00 automatic drain ($30 @ eBay)
Misc fittings and pipe $? (already had 'em laying around)

Since the auto-drain isn't included in the Grainger cooler, you could say I have $100 into a similar cooler.