To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Compressor aftercooling

Albiemanmike

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
138
Location
CT.
I know it has been beaten to death on here but I have been doing a lot of research recently about this and want to fabricate something to take care of the excessive moisture in my compressed air system. I don't have a piping system in my small garage which is only about 500 sq. ft. or so. It isn't small but it isn't really big enough to warrant a full blown piping system as i only run one hose off of the compressor to run anything air powered. Prior to finding all these threads about compressed air systems I had no idea of the complexity of these systems and as such the way I have my system setup it is no wonder I have a water problem.

I have an older 80 ga. Devilbiss 6.5 hp. 2 stage compressor which is no longer made. I just received a new Condor pressure switch/magnetic starter which has solved my pressure switch problems that was causing the compressor to not shut off and also the switch leaked. I found out from the company I got my new switch from that the switch on my compressor was a light duty item and wasn't designed to handle the 220v. current causing the switch contacts to weld together and not shut off. Thank god for the safety pressure relief valve. So I installed the pressure switch and now I am moving on to thinking about how best to fabricate some type of cooling arrangement for the air coming from the pump to the tank. I have read till I am crossed eyed all the things guy's have done and most of the ideas are ingenious.

I am trying to do this on a budget and not spend hundreds of dollars on this system. I liked the idea of using an automotive condenser but fear that it may cause to much of a restriction in the air flow. The aftermarket aftercoolers are just too rich for my taste although that would be ideal. So next I looked at an aftermarket oil cooler like the ones used here http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40753&highlight=compressor+air+condensate These are nice solutions but all of the ones I could find on Ebay were close to $100. Does anyone have a source for an inexpensive oil cooler type cooler good for this application? My plan is to come out of the compressor head route to the cooler then out of the cooler down to some type of drain trap setup. I will plumb off of the drain trap setup above the actual trap and route that line back up to the compressor tank. Then my air comes out of the tank through a ball valve then to a combination pressure regulator/water filter and off of that to my air hose to feed my tools.

Do you think that a setup such as this will be sufficient enough to remove the majority of the water I am getting in my air line? I am also thinking about putting an auto drain on the trap coming off of the cooler output but there again we are talking significant money to purchase a good auto drain valve but I think that is somewhat mandatory for this setup. I have the HF auto drain plumbed to the bottom of my tank but I don't think it is really draining enough moisture to be of any benefit as it only opens for a second or two.

I was thinking maybe you could fabricate some type of DIY cooler using black pipe and fittings? Does anyone think that making something like that resembling and oil cooler without the fins would cool the air enough to condense the water vapor into a liquid? I was thinking this might be be a low cost way to have an aftercooler type cooler? Just some things that have been bouncing around in my knoggin'. Any input good or bad is highly appreciated.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

bsaint

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
5,109
Location
Manchester, CT
This is what I just finished up today.

20130309180138762.jpg
 
OP
A

Albiemanmike

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
138
Location
CT.
This is what I just finished up today.

Thanks for the reply BSaint I didn't think anyone was going to chime in. I finally got finished with my setup today as well. I purchased a used AC condenser from a Ford Explorer. I plumbed it all with 1/2" copper tubing and compression fittings with a drip leg off of a T-Fitting that comes off the output of the condenser the other leg of the T-Fitting goes back to the compressor tank. At the bottom of the drip leg I installed a ball valve so that I can drain it while in use. I would love to plumb a timed auto drain off of the ball valve but those darn things cost a fortune so that will have to wait a while. I also got my new pressure switch/magnetic starter adjusted it cuts out at 150 psi and I have not figured out the cut in as of yet as I didn't really use the compressor for anything today after getting everything setup and checked for leaks. I think the factory cut-in/cut out was 145/175 but I didn't want it that high as my safety relief valve is 175 psi and I wanted the cut in to be about 110-120 which it should be close to that given the differential at 150 psi cut out.
 

bsaint

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
5,109
Location
Manchester, CT
Thanks. It works fantastic, but I am concerned about the inlet fitting. For some reason the 1" fittings on the cooler are small, there the solder on the elbow is filling a large gap. (And no its not x ftg) The top isnt an issue because its room temperature after filling 60 gallons from empty, but the bottom is blistering hot. Ive had issues in the past at car washes where the solder has blown out and that was on tight fitting fittings (also 95/5 which I used here.) But since this was on a 175# machine and running non-stop, I figured I'd be ok with my 125# setup. So I have to run it some more to find out for sure. Right now it doesnt run enough for some constant heat. If I did it over or had to fix it, I'd remove the fitting and braze it on with refrigerant rods.

You can't see if but there is angle iron that it attaches too to center the cooler within the flywheel. Its also important to leave a gap big enough to change belts. It also runs so quiet, its unbelievable.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
A

Albiemanmike

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
138
Location
CT.
Thanks. It works fantastic, but I am concerned about the inlet fitting. For some reason the 1" fittings on the cooler are small, there the solder on the elbow is filling a large gap. (And no its not x ftg) The top isnt an issue because its room temperature after filling 60 gallons from empty, but the bottom is blistering hot. Ive had issues in the past at car washes where the solder has blown out and that was on tight fitting fittings (also 95/5 which I used here.) But since this was on a 175# machine and running non-stop, I figured I'd be ok with my 125# setup. So I have to run it some more to find out for sure. Right now it doesnt run enough for some constant heat. If I did it over or had to fix it, I'd remove the fitting and braze it on with refrigerant rods.

You can't see if but there is angle iron that it attaches too to center the cooler within the flywheel. Its also important to leave a gap big enough to change belts. It also runs so quiet, its unbelievable.

I wouldn't think that the heat would be too much of an issue as the temps I have seen posted have not been any higher than 300-350 deg. at the pump output and I don't believe that is hot enough to cause any issue with the joints but correct me if I am wrong as this is all new too me with the compressed air systems. My DIY hack using an AC condenser seems to be working well and there doesn't seem to be much in the way of restriction issues that is noticeable. I have not used it a ton since i finished it last week been working on building a storage cabinet lately but I will see how well it work the next long sand blasting session when the pump tends to run a lot. I did notice that it seems to have more air capacity than before and possibly that is due to the reduced air temps going into the tank?
 

alan camby

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
1,566
Location
South of Indianapolis, Indiana
Mr. Bsaint
Looks very nice.
If I was going to be critical, I would have placed the outlet at the bottom of the cooler and the inlet at the top. To me, the cooler looks like it might be a water trap.

I am curious as to what the encoder looking thing is on the back of the drive motor?
 

bsaint

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
5,109
Location
Manchester, CT
Mr. Bsaint
Looks very nice.
If I was going to be critical, I would have placed the outlet at the bottom of the cooler and the inlet at the top. To me, the cooler looks like it might be a water trap.

I am curious as to what the encoder looking thing is on the back of the drive motor?

Thanks man. I did bottom to top because heat rises. The best efficiency is bottom to top. On the other hand you're right about the water trap, the bottom fitting should have been a T, but most commercial models we sold for Champion didn't have a drain so I didnt change it here. If I push water, its not a big deal, I have a air dryer.

It is a Danaher encoder. Thats a 3 hp motor believe it or not. Got a great deal on an inverter duty hostile rated 3 hp motor.
 

jimgerken

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
23
BSAINT, if you are still monitoring, what is that core from, is it air conditioning or some kind of oil cooler, or what? Brand and source please. Looks real good to me.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom