Compressor Air Dryer Question

[bford]

Hey guys,

I have a question about air dryers for compressors. Seems like these things cost a lot of money and for somebody like that don't actually use my air tools everyday/for a living, what is the next best setup for cheap that I can build?

I mean do I really have to have one? I know it will be a must have if I decide to use my compressor for painting and such as so there wouldn't be water particles while spraying.

Thanks.

Ford

 

[Rated ///M]

I built a condenser of sort out of 2" galvanized pipe about 18" long... The air will compress in your 1/2" lines, then expand rapidly in the 2" section and drop out a lot of its moisture... Then just put a nice water separator at your hose connection and you'll be find with regular tools.

I pull about 2-3 ounces of water out of my "condenser" daily when using air tools regularly.

 

[bford]

I built a condenser of sort out of 2" galvanized pipe about 18" long... The air will compress in your 1/2" lines, then expand rapidly in the 2" section and drop out a lot of its moisture... Then just put a nice water separator at your hose connection and you'll be find with regular tools.

I pull about 2-3 ounces of water out of my "condenser" daily when using air tools regularly.

can you show me a picture of how you did it?

My idea was that to maybe make a "portable" dryer system that I can basically hook up to the quick connect outlet of the air compressor (where you would normally hookup the hose that runs into the air tool), run the drying filters and stuff in series, and at the very end, have another quick connect for the air hose that would run into the air tool.

I don't know if that is basically how all these work or is there more to it than that? Reason why I'd like to do it this way is that I have a roll around air compressor and I'd like the system to be portable and easy to install (it will basically be like an air tool if you know what im saying since it will connect to the quick connect from the compressor)

 

[Falcon67]

If it's a smaller 120V compressor, you'll need a pretty decent water trap because they make water like an ozark spring. And it will affect your tools.

 

[bford]

If it's a smaller 120V compressor, you'll need a pretty decent water trap because they make water like an ozark spring. And it will affect your tools.

yeah its an older 120v SpeedAir Horizontal 20gal Compressor

 

[stonesfan68]

You can eliminate a lot of moisture by using a moisture separator and coalescing filter. I'd recommend getting industrial quality equipment like Hankison or Ingersoll-Rand. Install them directly after the compressor tank.

 

[Rated ///M]

This should give you a good idea...

 

[bford]

Hey Rated, where do you connect the hose that would eventually go to the air tool in use? Is it at the bottom of that air dryer? Looks to be the brass quick connect with a yellow switch?

 

[Rated ///M]

Hey Rated, where do you connect the hose that would eventually go to the air tool in use? Is it at the bottom of that air dryer? Looks to be the brass quick connect with a yellow switch?

its unfinished there... That actually went into 1/2" black pipe that I plumbed to multiple locations in my garage...

The other side ran over to my air dryer... which surprisingly isn't totally complete yet either...

 

[nickleone]

Try this:
http://tinyurl.com/lfo8wpj

Similar to what was used when in a past life I assembled compressor packages.

Nick

 

[bford]

I think I see what your saying now rated, so that valve on the bottom of that galvanized piece that you made is where water would accumulate and you would open the valve to release all the water/moisture accumulated - so the quick connect piece for the hose is on the top of that galvanized piece.

 

[EOC_Jason]

This is about as cheap of a refrigerated dryer as you can get, unless you can find one cheaper on CL...

http://www.harborfreight.com/compressed-air-dryer-40211.html

Your other option would be to run enough line to cool the air coming out of your tank, then put a moisture separator and coalescing filter... An easy way to do that would be to go to HD or Lowes and get a long coil of copper tubing. You can uncoil it some and have a fan blowing on it to help bring down the air temp.

But in all honestly, seeing as how you have only a 20 gallon unit, watch CL and get a 60 or 80 gallon setup first.

 

[zcar751]

I built one out of copper and connected it to the compressor with a flexible hose. Uses the same theory as Rated by slowing down the air and giving it more surface area to cool with. I also put a 5 gallon portable tank in the loop before the copper cooler as a cooling trap. I don't get any water/moisture at the tool now were before you would have thought the air hose was tied to the water main.

 

[bford]

zcar, Thanks for the pics. So in this edited pic, do I have this right? OR do I have this backwards?

Sorry for all the questions guys, I'm just trying to figure out how all these work and maybe design something for my own need without having to buy an actual air dryer unit (i don't have the money and space for it)

 

[Mr onetwo]

Do a search for "Franzinator"

 

[EOC_Jason]

zcar, Thanks for the pics. So in this edited pic, do I have this right? OR do I have this backwards?

I *think* you have it backwards, but I'll wait for the OP to chime in...

 

[Notch1988]

zcar, Thanks for the pics. So in this edited pic, do I have this right? OR do I have this backwards?

Sorry for all the questions guys, I'm just trying to figure out how all these work and maybe design something for my own need without having to buy an actual air dryer unit (i don't have the money and space for it)

Ideally you want the air coming in on the bottom right corner and the air going out on the top left corner. That way the air can't "short circuit" and take the shorter path. The way this one is setup most of the air will go across the top section making the rest of it less effective.

 

[Sureshot]

I built one out of copper and connected it to the compressor with a flexible hose. Uses the same theory as Rated by slowing down the air and giving it more surface area to cool with. I also put a 5 gallon portable tank in the loop before the copper cooler as a cooling trap. I don't get any water/moisture at the tool now were before you would have thought the air hose was tied to the water main.

Do the antlers and skull plate help?

Seriously I wonder if a person made something similar but in a series of "H" tied together at the top and bottom. That way you would speed up and slow down the air stream several times and avoid the short circuiting effect. Would need a drain on each tie section then.

To the op. I think it depends on where you live as well. I don't have a dryer but do get some moisture in my 3/4" copper lines on occasion. I have bottom drains in the line though.

 

[zcar751]

Your diagram is correct. While Notch is basically correct about the possible short circuiting my original design had the system set up horizontally instead of vertically but space was an issue. The reality is that when the air hits the tee it will go in both directions and as it seeks the path of least resistance the air will change velocities causing temperature changes and moisture to drop out of the air. When I move it in a couple of weeks I will change the orientation so that the drain will be the input and the input will be the drain.

 

[bford]

Thanks. From all these designs you guys showed me, and those I've seen from research, it seems to be always designed with long pipes..I know that is because you need the surface area to cool the air down but what is the bare minimum you can get away with?

 

[kazlx]

There are too many variables for that. A lot of it depends on where you are. Air in Florida takes a little more work than in Arizona...

 

[bford]

There are too many variables for that. A lot of it depends on where you are. Air in Florida takes a little more work than in Arizona...

Thanks. That's what I figured. I guess it will be just trial and error if I wanted to do the bare minimum way. And then when winter comes I'd be screwed again lol.

 

[kazlx]

Might want to consider a Motorguard M30 on the tail end. If you build a condenser setup that's a good way to cap it off.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Thanks. From all these designs you guys showed me, and those I've seen from research, it seems to be always designed with long pipes..I know that is because you need the surface area to cool the air down but what is the bare minimum you can get away with?

That is a loaded question. It all depends on your average ambient temp vs the air temp coming out of your compressor and also how much air you are flowing through.

I seem to recall reading that you should have about 25ft of line between your compressor and your first drop for adequate temperature drop.

 

[Fixnair]

Cheapest way to get dry air is to cool it. Installing an aftercooler immediately after the pump,sized appropriately will remove about 60% of the moisture. Be sur to drain yout tank often. For the do it yourselfer an old refrigeration condenser from an old car mounted in front of the flywheel will go a long way towards dry air. To further dry it you need to run it through a chemical bed or use mechanical refrigeration. With refrigeration you can get it down to 35* dew point. Chemically you can get it down to -40* Dewpoint is the temperature at which more water apor will condense. As long as the temp. of your compressed air stays above the Dewpoint it will be dry.