Compressor air line organization/connector question

[DerStig]

I have a Husky 175 psi 30 gal compressor (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-30...table-Electric-Air-Compressor-C303H/206532808). It comes with 2 x 1/4" quick connectors and a regulator.

I have an HD9 4 post lift and RJ45 rolling jack both of which requires airline (1/4" connect). They also require regulator/filter/lubricator.

I want to organize the connections in and out of the compressor. The question I have is whether I should have a 3/8" of everything with 1/4" conversion here and there or just use 1/4" all around.

The compressor's existing quick connects are 1/4". HD9's airline inlet and RJ45's inlet are 1/4" as well. The tire inflator/gauge I bought for $50 (which is very high quality) is also 1/4". I have no air tools at the moment, I will get a nail gun/wrench at some point. My compressor pushes about 5.1 CFM@90 psi.

If I should use 3/8" hoses the questions I have are as follows:

- Should I continue using the quick connects on the compressor as 1/4" and convert them or get rid of them and replace them with 3/8" quick connects.
- Is having converters everywhere going to be an issue (HD9 and RJ45 as well as my tire inflator/gauge are all 1/4"). I have to go from 1/4 to 3/8 hose to 1/4 back again.

I'm not sure how to best organize this. I'm guessing a permanent line from the compressor to the filter/lubricator (which will be mounted on the 4 post lift by the power unit) is necessary. From that point on, I need something that will give me 3-4 different lines. 1 will go to the HD9 itself for safety locks, 1 will go to RJ45, 1 will probably be roller thing that I attach to the ceiling for inflating tires etc. I just cannot figure what I need to buy and what's the best way.

Thanks for your help

 

[md21722]

1/4" NPT fittings is pretty much standard for air tool fittings until you get up to the big ones, like 3/4" impact wrenches where it changes to 3/8" NPT.

1/4" air hose is for small brad nailers, 3/8" air hose is standard for pretty much everything, until you get up to the big tools, like 3/4" impact wrenches where you'd use 1/2" air hose.

Bottom line, use 1/4" air fittings & 3/8" hose. Don't be too picky about it, but don't buy couplers from Hazard Freight.

 

[DerStig]

1/4" NPT fittings is pretty much standard for air tool fittings until you get up to the big ones, like 3/4" impact wrenches where it changes to 3/8" NPT.

1/4" air hose is for small brad nailers, 3/8" air hose is standard for pretty much everything, until you get up to the big tools, like 3/4" impact wrenches where you'd use 1/2" air hose.

Bottom line, use 1/4" air fittings & 3/8" hose.

Hang on, I thought 3/8" air line required 3/8" fittings, I guess i m completely clueless

 

[md21722]

Hang on, I thought 3/8" air line required 3/8" fittings, I guess i m completely clueless

Almost all 1/4" hose will have 1/4" NPT ends.

Most 3/8" hose will have 1/4" NPT ends. Almost all you find in the store will be this way.

1/2" hose will have 3/8" or 1/2" NPT ends.

If you take a trip down to your local hardware store, farm store, what have you, they will have everything you need. Even if you don't plan on buying it there, it will give you an idea... The hardware stores will have 1/4" air hose for the roofers. Don't buy it. I suggest buying GOOD rubber air hose or Flexzilla type. Skip the PVC. It never lays flat on the floor and is a trip hazard. Plus it doesn't do well in weather extremes.

You can get complicated and buy 3/8" air hose with 3/8" NPT fittings .. but its not needed. Why go through the hassle when professional mechanics have used what I'm suggesting for decades without issues...

 

[DerStig]

Almost all 1/4" hose will have 1/4" NPT ends.

Almost all 3/8" hose will have 1/4" NPT ends.

1/2" hose will have 3/8" or 1/2" NPT ends.

Understood.

Should I be getting a regulator/filter/lubricator that is 3/8" or 1/4"? I m guessing 1/4"?

I was going to get one of these:https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...aps,k:air+filter+regulator+lubricator+1/4+NPT

 

[LennyTheLizard]

In my shop, I use the Rapid air system attached to my compressor. You can find it on sale frequently at Northern Tool. Makes it handy to have multiple "drops" around the shop and built in water drains. I suggest a "Master" air regualtor filter close to the compressor, and then a small auxilary regulator that can be connected on end of air line for "choking" down the pressure for special jobs when needed.

I wouldn't add the lubricator at all. I would only put a couple drops of oil in the air tool when needed, rather than taking the chance of supplying lubricated air to something that doesn't need it (Airing tires, Air blow gun, painting (NEVER!))

 

[DerStig]

I am considering either

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057D8LX8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JHP6QW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[md21722]

Honestly I think its best to put the regulator/filter at point of use and have a high (unregulated) PSI coupler and a regulated coupler at each work area. Air cools as it gets farther down the line, so the filter as far away from the compressor will have the best chance and collecting the most water...

 

[md21722]

I am considering either

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057D8LX8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JHP6QW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another gotcha!

While you generally run 3/8" air hose from the regulator to the tool... the actual plumbing through the shop should be more like 1/2" or 3/4" line. I use 1/2" filters/regulators like the Milton 1108.

 

[DerStig]

Another gotcha!

While you generally run 3/8" air hose from the regulator to the tool... the actual plumbing through the shop should be more like 1/2" or 3/4" line. I use 1/2" filters/regulators like the Milton 1108.

I m very confused

Just tell me what to buy I thought I was supposed to get 3/8" air hose and 1/4" everything else

 

[md21722]

Can you upload a picture of your shop with the compressor & lift shown?

The advice I was giving above was for the couplers & hose size to your tools.

In my cases the compressor is off in a corner of the shop so you don't have to next to the noise, then hard line is run to the points of use. At the lift you have one two drops from the ceiling. One in the front to supply air to the lift itself, and another in the back mounted roughly around where your hands would be if they were at your side. That's where you connect your 25' air hose to work on the vehicle with impact wrench, etc.

Then you might have a hose reel mounted to a wall or ceiling by the garage door, if you wanted some air outside the shop, etc. Some people will even put a hole through the shop wall so there's a coupler outside, so they can work outside and keep the shop door closed.

All of these lines between the compressor & "point of use" should be 1/2" - 3/4" black iron, copper, or Rapid Air type.

 

[DerStig]

Can you upload a picture of your shop with the compressor & lift shown?

The advice I was giving above was for the couplers & hose size to your tools.

In my cases the compressor is off in a corner of the shop so you don't have to next to the noise, then hard line is run to the points of use. At the lift you have one two drops from the ceiling. One in the front to supply air to the lift itself, and another in the back mounted roughly around where your hands would be if they were at your side. That's where you connect your 25' air hose to work on the vehicle with impact wrench, etc.

Then you might have a hose reel mounted to a wall or ceiling by the garage door, if you wanted some air outside the shop, etc. Some people will even put a hole through the shop wall so there's a coupler outside, so they can work outside and keep the shop door closed.

All of these lines between the compressor & "point of use" should be 1/2" - 3/4" black iron, copper, or Rapid Air type.

Right now its not so much of a shop just a garage. I have a compressor (which has wheels and I can move it around) in one corner and the 4 post lift. They are probably 6-8 ft from each other.

When you say these lines should be black iron etc, that sounds like too much work for me and to be honest I want to have flexibility. I dont want to cut those pipes etc and tomorrow I need to move the compressor and it becomes a problem.

I looked into the rapid air type hose I m guessing this is the one you can cut to your length which is great.

Isnt 1/2" or 3/4" a lot? Why should the filter/regulator piece have to be that big?

Also what hoses (brand) or reel do you recommend?

I am never going to have a proper wood working shop here. Its mainly going to be DIY projects here and there and my space is very limited (small old house from 1950s). The only thing I care about is I dont want to buy hoses/connectors or other equipment that will not handle the load in the future. I want to buy something decent once and not worry about upgrade. That being said, I dont see myself using the air anything other than 4 post lift, rolling jack, inflating tires or balls, impact wrench and maybe a nail gun. This is also why I went and bought an oilless portable compressor (but has decent psi and capacity) but not a belt driven 60 gal expensive unit.

 

[tjdux]

Plumbing shop air lines is very much opinion and most people do it their own way. There are many variables to consider and a few fact/myth/specialist applications. One important thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that if your needs change, air lines are generally pretty easy to adjust as well.

A general concept is to run hars lines from a stationary compressor to main usage points in the shop then run rubber hose from there.

For the air tools and equipment you mentioned you probably dont need anything crazy big. I would look at 3/4 inch aluminum wrapped pex, black or galvanized steel pipe, or copper for hard lines. Also thr quick connect piping is good stuff too. If yoi think somday you may use really big air tools plumb everything bigger with 1 inch line but its likey overkill. Heck 3/4 is probably overkill and 1/2 would do but bigger never hurts anything but $.

The idea behind hard lines is to leave your big heavy compressor in one spot permently. Run the hard main lines out to heavy use areas. In your case a hard line to the ceiling hose reel, one to the 4 post lift, one to the general area you will be using the air powered jack, one near the workbenchnor area you will be using the framing nailer, and i like one near the garage door to easily acess something outside on the driveway. Pending on how big or small the shop you have is you may need more or less. My advice for you is a do more than you think you need. You already need air for the lift and then a second line for an impact. Same thing often happens in woodworking where i use 1 line for nailer and another for a stapler.

To plumb hard line to rubber hose is simple. Without being able to see a photk of your space i can only guess at how to plumb it but basically most shops run air main lines on or near the ceiling and then drop them down the walls. You run hard line down to a comfortable or nessary height. I go aboit waist high if there are no obstructions. Use a tee fitting and then a reducer or reducing bushing that ends out in 1/4 npt out of the 90 degree side of the tee. From the downhill sode of the tee extend the pipe 12 inches and have a water dump valve. Even with a water seperator moisture can still get into the lines. Into that 1/4 npt install a female quick connect. That is the basic recipe for a drop. From there get good rubber hose to run along to where you need to use the tools.

Samething here as with pipe size. They make bigger connectors but 1/4 is standard, cheapest and easy. You could do it all 3/8 or 1/2 now and spend more but based on your tools you dont need to. If someday you really move to really huge tools if you plumb with 3/4 all you need to change then is the 3/4 to 1/4 reducers and upgrade to bigger quick connects.

If money is no object I would get pex. It is easy to work with but the tools required are not cheap. Even the fittings ate reusable. For air lines a special pex tubing is required. It has an aluminum foil lining inside of it. Its easy to find and i would recomend a google search to read up on it.

If your poor broke PVC can be used for airlines but not recomended. It can only hold so much psi and the hotter it gets the less psi it handles. Also If it gets hit hard while under pressure it can rupture and explode sending out shapnel. That being said many people do use it for air (including me) but recomend it especally since your compressor is pretty high rated. (Mine is luck to hit 120psi)

Another post mentioned regulators at each drop. I completely agree with this. Instead of having one connection point per drop consider adding another tee and having one connection with a regulator to reduce pressure right there and another thats running full blast. This way you dont have to go clear to the compressor to adjust pressure. Also it allows you to run muktiple pressures at the same time.

For example you may have a car on the lift needing full pressure and also try to use a 3/8 drive impact needing say 50-60 psi. If you regulate down for the impact the lift may fail and kill you. If you run multiple regulators you can safely have both.

Im sure i missed some things here but i hope this helps explain some of it. Post some pics and we may be able to help more. Good luck.

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[DerStig]

Plumbing shop air lines is very much opinion and most people do it their own way. There are many variables to consider and a few fact/myth/specialist applications. One important thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that if your needs change, air lines are generally pretty easy to adjust as well.

A general concept is to run hars lines from a stationary compressor to main usage points in the shop then run rubber hose from there.

For the air tools and equipment you mentioned you probably dont need anything crazy big. I would look at 3/4 inch aluminum wrapped pex, black or galvanized steel pipe, or copper for hard lines. Also thr quick connect piping is good stuff too. If yoi think somday you may use really big air tools plumb everything bigger with 1 inch line but its likey overkill. Heck 3/4 is probably overkill and 1/2 would do but bigger never hurts anything but $.

The idea behind hard lines is to leave your big heavy compressor in one spot permently. Run the hard main lines out to heavy use areas. In your case a hard line to the ceiling hose reel, one to the 4 post lift, one to the general area you will be using the air powered jack, one near the workbenchnor area you will be using the framing nailer, and i like one near the garage door to easily acess something outside on the driveway. Pending on how big or small the shop you have is you may need more or less. My advice for you is a do more than you think you need. You already need air for the lift and then a second line for an impact. Same thing often happens in woodworking where i use 1 line for nailer and another for a stapler.

To plumb hard line to rubber hose is simple. Without being able to see a photk of your space i can only guess at how to plumb it but basically most shops run air main lines on or near the ceiling and then drop them down the walls. You run hard line down to a comfortable or nessary height. I go aboit waist high if there are no obstructions. Use a tee fitting and then a reducer or reducing bushing that ends out in 1/4 npt out of the 90 degree side of the tee. From the downhill sode of the tee extend the pipe 12 inches and have a water dump valve. Even with a water seperator moisture can still get into the lines. Into that 1/4 npt install a female quick connect. That is the basic recipe for a drop. From there get good rubber hose to run along to where you need to use the tools.

Samething here as with pipe size. They make bigger connectors but 1/4 is standard, cheapest and easy. You could do it all 3/8 or 1/2 now and spend more but based on your tools you dont need to. If someday you really move to really huge tools if you plumb with 3/4 all you need to change then is the 3/4 to 1/4 reducers and upgrade to bigger quick connects.

If money is no object I would get pex. It is easy to work with but the tools required are not cheap. Even the fittings ate reusable. For air lines a special pex tubing is required. It has an aluminum foil lining inside of it. Its easy to find and i would recomend a google search to read up on it.

If your poor broke PVC can be used for airlines but not recomended. It can only hold so much psi and the hotter it gets the less psi it handles. Also If it gets hit hard while under pressure it can rupture and explode sending out shapnel. That being said many people do use it for air (including me) but recomend it especally since your compressor is pretty high rated. (Mine is luck to hit 120psi)

Another post mentioned regulators at each drop. I completely agree with this. Instead of having one connection point per drop consider adding another tee and having one connection with a regulator to reduce pressure right there and another thats running full blast. This way you dont have to go clear to the compressor to adjust pressure. Also it allows you to run muktiple pressures at the same time.

For example you may have a car on the lift needing full pressure and also try to use a 3/8 drive impact needing say 50-60 psi. If you regulate down for the impact the lift may fail and kill you. If you run multiple regulators you can safely have both.

Im sure i missed some things here but i hope this helps explain some of it. Post some pics and we may be able to help more. Good luck.

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Thank you sir for detailed advice. I will come back with more questions after some googling and come up with a list of things I think I should buy

 

[tjdux]

Thank you sir for detailed advice. I will come back with more questions after some googling and come up with a list of things I think I should buy

Hey no problem. Happy to help

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[stingry]

Right now its not so much of a shop just a garage. I have a compressor (which has wheels and I can move it around) in one corner and the 4 post lift. They are probably 6-8 ft from each other.

I dont see myself using the air anything other than 4 post lift, rolling jack, inflating tires or balls, impact wrench and maybe a nail gun .[/QUOTE

With the requirements that you specify in the above statement, I think that you are way overthinking this!! Put the regulator/filter on the compressor and then tee the line with two 1/4" female quick connects. Run two 3/8" hoses from there, one to the lift locks and another to use for an air gun or the RJ45 jack. Put 1/4"male quick connects on the jack, lock release and any other air consuming tools that you may have. This setup will serve you well for what you need. If you ever expand to a larger shop and want to expand your air delivery system. all the components will be useable with an expanded, more sophisticated system. Most of the advice given above is good but more suited to larger shops. As far as a pressure regulator, you will very seldom see the need for lower pressure air unless using a paint gun.

Cheers
Steve

 

[stingry]

If you regulate down for the impact the lift may fail and kill you.

Wow, that's an scary statement!!! No way can lower or complete loss of air pressure cause the lift to fail!!

 

[tjdux]

Wow, that's an scary statement!!! No way can lower or complete loss of air pressure cause the lift to fail!!

That may be true but i honesty dont know how they work and what saftey locks they have. If its a lift that requires air pressure it would probably be wise not to reduce the pressure to it while in use. I assume there is a check valve to hold pressure in the lift cylinder but say you reduce pressure from the regulator at the compressor and then forget and try to raise the lift and it lowers and damages something.

Yes i did give a highly unlikely extreme example that may even be considered an exaggeration but not an impossibility.

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[tjdux]

Right now its not so much of a shop just a garage. I have a compressor (which has wheels and I can move it around) in one corner and the 4 post lift. They are probably 6-8 ft from each other.

I dont see myself using the air anything other than 4 post lift, rolling jack, inflating tires or balls, impact wrench and maybe a nail gun .[/QUOTE

With the requirements that you specify in the above statement, I think that you are way overthinking this!! Put the regulator/filter on the compressor and then tee the line with two 1/4" female quick connects. Run two 3/8" hoses from there, one to the lift locks and another to use for an air gun or the RJ45 jack. Put 1/4"male quick connects on the jack, lock release and any other air consuming tools that you may have. This setup will serve you well for what you need. If you ever expand to a larger shop and want to expand your air delivery system. all the components will be useable with an expanded, more sophisticated system. Most of the advice given above is good but more suited to larger shops. As far as a pressure regulator, you will very seldom see the need for lower pressure air unless using a paint gun.

Cheers
Steve

My shop is only 24x32 and i have hardlines and 4 dropdowns. One at each of 2 workbenches at the front corners of shop, one in between the 2 car doors in the rear middle with 100ft reel, and one in the middle where where i do auto maintence. Small shops benift from hardlines too and i just wanted to educate the OP as much as possible so he could make his own good plans for his persoanl needs.

It sounds like his plans and overall organization with that many differing types of projects and tools that running hardlines and drops will be much less dangerous trippy clutter of air lines all over the floor.

As far as regulators, I use multiple pressures for different nailers and staplers often for wood working projects. Brad nailer may need 100psi while a pinner may need 30 or 40psi.

OP may not need any, but its easier to plumb them in from the get go than add them in later. Maybe even if he does 2 drops juat put one reg at 1 drop.

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[tjdux]

Hey another tip ive learned the hard way, use thread compound instead of teflon tape. I feel its less likey to leak with air pressure than tape and a little easier to use. I even read an artile from handyman magizine with a "pro" plumber saying on some really important hard to acess fittings he will use both. That may be overkill but for air i have better luck with compound.

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[dave89iroc]

That may be true but i honesty dont know how they work and what saftey locks they have. If its a lift that requires air pressure it would probably be wise not to reduce the pressure to it while in use. I assume there is a check valve to hold pressure in the lift cylinder but say you reduce pressure from the regulator at the compressor and then forget and try to raise the lift and it lowers and damages something.

Yes i did give a highly unlikely extreme example that may even be considered an exaggeration but not an impossibility.

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most lifts you will see use a electric motor driving a hydraulic pump, and only use air pressure to RELEASE safety locks, so it is safe to raise a lift even with no pressure, just need some to lower it

some lifts in larger shops use air pressure to pressurize hydraulic fluid in a large tank, which in turn, through a hand operated valve, is used to operate the hydraulic cylinders of the lift, and also use air pressure to release safety locks, but even in this instance, a loss of air pressure will not cause the lift to fail, the hand valve is holding the pressurized fluid on the lift cylinders

 

[tjdux]

most lifts you will see use a electric motor driving a hydraulic pump, and only use air pressure to RELEASE safety locks, so it is safe to raise a lift even with no pressure, just need some to lower it

some lifts in larger shops use air pressure to pressurize hydraulic fluid in a large tank, which in turn, through a hand operated valve, is used to operate the hydraulic cylinders of the lift, and also use air pressure to release safety locks, but even in this instance, a loss of air pressure will not cause the lift to fail, the hand valve is holding the pressurized fluid on the lift cylinders

That makes total sense. The only lift i have personally used i think used air pressure to pressurize hydraulic cylinders. It definetly needed pressure to lift. And like i said i exaggerated a bit.

 

[tjdux]

Just to be clear to the OP i did exaggerate a bit on how losing air pressure may cause lift failure. The guys who posted about how the lifts work certianly know more about lifts than I do (which isnt much)

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[DerStig]

No problem, understood

What do you think about the rapid air system? I think 3/4" should be sufficient for me and the cost/effort to put it together isnt as bad as messing with metal pipes (I have no equipment to manage metal pipes).

On another question, should I be using a 3/8" NPT filter/lubricator combo or 1/4"? Thanks

 

[tjdux]

Those rapid are systems are nice and easy and had i known it existed when i did my shop i would probably have used that same system. As far as the thread size on oiler it really doesn't matter much. As long as you are going to leave everything 1/4 get 1/4. If someday you may upsize then get 3/8 and use a reducer bushing. If they are thr same price then 1/4 will not need extra fittings so it will be cheaper end price.

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