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Compressor air line, regulator & filter questions....

1320stang

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Dec 28, 2006
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4,567
Location
Edmond, OK
I had posted most of this below in a question about regulator brands and only Charles answered, but only about the brands, so I striped that out and reposted the rest of it.

https://goo.io/nJwYmJ

Is it better to have regulators and dryers at the drops or to have them close to the compressor? Also, do you dry before you regulate? Seems like the triple units dry, regulate, then oil.

I guess I need to back up a bit and talk about my configuration. My compressor is going at the front right side of the garage. In front of this I have a 10' deep, by 8' wide cubby that I just put a 'L' shaped bench in. My side of the garage is the outside side and the compressor is on that side. Across from the compressor and up the 4" rise into the cubby is the end of the bench that goes back the 10' and across 8' to the outside. Between that end of the bench and the compressor is a 36" door and the panelboard. My compressor is a 80 gal. 240V 2 stage Delta.

Right now I'm thinking of going up between the compressor and panelboard with a 10' stick of 3/4" black iron pipe thru the ceiling into the attic. I'll tee and take one side at 3/4" about 20' towards the garage door and come down with 3/4" about 2' inside the door on the outer wall. I'll have a tee with a 6" dirt/drip leg and a 3/4" or 1/2" ball valve on the bottom. The other side of the tee will have a 1/2" NPT regulator/dryer and a pair of disconnects. This is where I'll hook up to a pressure pot for a sand blaster for use outside. The eventual sand blast cabinet will sit next to it. Back at the first tee in the attic I'll turn 90 degrees and go across and down next to the sink. Same dirt/drip leg with ball valve and regulator/dryer after which, another tee and from there on, all 1/2" pipe. One side of the tee will go down and be for the front of the garage, the other side will turn and go up under my shelving above my bench, teeing off 3 or 4 times with drops down 12" or so towards the bench.

I figure the regulator/dryer at the bench will be about 25' from the compressor as the lines run and the far drop will be about 40'. All 3/4" horizontal lines will slope away from the compressor. Since I can't come off the top of my 1/2" lines under my shelving, I won't be sloping that line. Does this sound like a decent layout?

After some thought, and the inability to find US iron fittings, I'm rethinking about going with copper and just trying to be more efficient with my layout. I'll tee for the future media blasting area and only do about half my bench. In my drawings below, the air piping is single line, the dashed part is future.



 
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MustangRick

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Dec 26, 2006
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308
Location
KC
I have more luck putting the dry/reg/oil as close to the point of use as possible. I saw on a show a long time ago that the air needs to cool before you run it through the dryer or else the water vapor will go right through. My setup works way better with the units right where I plug in my hose.
I bought some cheap Harbor Freight dry/reg/oil and I have been happy once I wrapped teflon tape around just about everything. From my experience, with them lined up as dryer-regulator-oiler you can connect into the regulator right infront of the oiler for your none oil needs such as paint, blasting, and tires. This is of course if the regulator has taps for things such as gauges.

I would recommend to put a ball valve right above your tee, then a 12" down leg then another ball valve for your drain. This allows you to shut off the air to your units incase you want to. I tend to cut the air off at night so that I don't have pressure on my hoses incase they are hooked up. No real benefit, just something I started doing. Plus there are so many chances for air leaks with all the ******* attaching the regulators and such together.

When I put in 30 pieces of pipe and fittings and then chase a leak for weeks, the copper started looking pretty attractive. Then I had a water leak in my copper pipes tucked into the ceiling that was impossible to get solder into. I don't regret the black pipe at all, I am glad I installed extra tees and unions to make troubleshooting easier. I did learn that teflon tape and paste work wonders... I was using one or the other at the begining.
 

ZRX61

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Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
I looked at Husky's filters today... no means of attaching them to anything as there is no bracket.. or even someplace to attach a bracket to.. Guy in the tool dept at Home Cheapo "oh, thats a pretty stupid design, no wonder we don't sell many" LOL!
 
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1320stang

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Dec 28, 2006
Messages
4,567
Location
Edmond, OK
Both the Home Depot and Lowes in the little tubes are made by Campbell Hausfeld and relabeled for the stores.

I've been watching Ebay at the Wilkerson, SpeedAire and Norgren brands which all seem to be commercial, USA made products of quality.
 
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ron in sc

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Mar 19, 2006
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1,071
Location
Charleston, SC
I've had Speedaire filters for about 5 years. I was using 2 separate water/particle filters and 1 oil covalesing filter, then regulator. They were ok with my 3 hp, 60 gallon unit but not for my new 5hp unit with 80 gallon tank.

I've considered a refrigerated dryer but I think I'm going to use the following system:

-Sharpe 6910 which is two separate filters, one water/particles and the other oil covalesing. These are the ones used on their Dryaire system; that system has a third dessicant filter.

-Motor Guard M-60 filter

-Sharpe regulator
 

willot1

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Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Messages
12
Ron in SC, where are you looking to buy this set from? Local or online. THX
 
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