Im going to be building a 14x16 shed to keep my tools and air compressor in while Im building my shop. I plan on keeping the compressor in there after the shop is up (could take months to build) and run a line to the shop and not sure how long of a run I can make.
Compressor air line run?
- Thread starter jsice78
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volleyball
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3 miles.
Streetbu
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BUT... I would install a larger line than you think you need that way if you ever upgrade to a larger compressor you wont have to worry about it flowing enough. This is especially true if you plan on using any air hog tools, like a blast cabinet, da sanders etc. I would use 1" pipe and that will most likely be more than enough for what most of us do.
csp
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Might get a better answer if you state how far you're planning on running it so you get an idea of how big the line should be. Ask a question that open ended and you're not going to get very productive answers.
Richard Cranium
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and remember no pvc pipes
I may do dumb things once in awhile but I'm not stupid. The shed to the corner of the shop will be around 70 feet. I plan on using the shed for outdoor tools and stuff I don't want in the shop. I will someday set up a blasting room.
akdiesel
Well-known member
jsice78
Here is the problem I see with running outdoor lines in northern locations or any loactions for that matter.
I am sure you see freezing temps in your area. So this is part of the problem. Being you will want to concerl the air line most likely it will be burried, and it will lead to a collection point (water trap in other words). I have not been to NY but I am sure it gets humid so even more liquid than normal.
Being you are trying to do things on a budget you may not have the meens of using a nice desicant system or running heat trace for your air line.
The cold air or ground will condense the air the much more.
I would not recommend doing this in cold climates unless of course you can make sure you can blow out your lines after use and keep them isoalted when not in use.
I may get ram roded for this but PVC may not be a bad choice for underground air but the better choice would be PEX.
Here is the problem I see with running outdoor lines in northern locations or any loactions for that matter.
I am sure you see freezing temps in your area. So this is part of the problem. Being you will want to concerl the air line most likely it will be burried, and it will lead to a collection point (water trap in other words). I have not been to NY but I am sure it gets humid so even more liquid than normal.
Being you are trying to do things on a budget you may not have the meens of using a nice desicant system or running heat trace for your air line.
The cold air or ground will condense the air the much more.
I would not recommend doing this in cold climates unless of course you can make sure you can blow out your lines after use and keep them isoalted when not in use.
I may get ram roded for this but PVC may not be a bad choice for underground air but the better choice would be PEX.
schor
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Just run a temp air hose for now till you decide exactly what your going to do. As others have mentioned draining the moisture is going to be a problem in most installations where your running 70' from building to building.
Motown 454
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How about a small sponge ball or something similar. Make a place near the compressor to put it in and a place for it to shoot out on the other end and use it to push the water out with the pressure from the compressor, like they use for concrete pump trucks.
Just a thought.
Or a 90 at the end with a water service valve (and PVC pipe to the surface something like water services have) that you can open into a small dry well. You will have a valve in the building you can close When you want to empty it you open the valve under ground you'll have a straight run and the moisture goes into the dry well. Then you close it and it will go to your receiver tank.
Just a thought.
Or a 90 at the end with a water service valve (and PVC pipe to the surface something like water services have) that you can open into a small dry well. You will have a valve in the building you can close When you want to empty it you open the valve under ground you'll have a straight run and the moisture goes into the dry well. Then you close it and it will go to your receiver tank.
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Jmatlock88
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How about putting a 1/4 bubble grade on the buried pipe toward a low point near the shop. Make your shop air line have a 1/4 bubble grade to the low point as well. Install a tee and ball valve at the low point. Use a water meter type cover in the yard to access the ball valve. Drain the valve occasionally or set it up with an automatic timer valve.
I live in MN, humid as Florida in the summer, I might drain 1gal. of water out of my compressor every summer.
Make the appropriate drops, with ball valves and you should never have to worry about moisture.
I plan on having the driest air I can get. I'm hoping to use the air for a blasting and plasma.it tools. I plan on having drops to bleed the water out and having a nice air filter on there. Once I build my lean to on the compressor might go in there.
Motown 454
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If you run it deep enough it will be like a mini air dryer since it will run in cool ground.
schor
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That's the best route in the lean to, keep it closer to the shop.
RVDan
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I have an air line run across my yard in some sort of plasti conduit that was laying around. It's just rubber line and I can easily pull it out if I want to drain it or replace it. It's only sixty feet though, it might be tough to pull out something a lot longer.
Durka
Well-known member
Use the same stuff they use for high pressure gas. After all, that's what compressed air is. It's NOT PVC, -I can tell you that. It's a polymer composite material I believe. Comes in a roll. If you have to seam it, they use what's called a hot patch. Melts the two pieces together. The only time I've seen them break is from a excavator bite. 
BTW- Has to be below frost line, what ever that might be where your at. Here in MI, it's 42" below grade.
BTW- Has to be below frost line, what ever that might be where your at. Here in MI, it's 42" below grade.