Compressor air lines being installed

[Matt Harwood]

That sounds good but is there something that I can be found from home improvement stores? I think some reinforced PVC hose are rated for 175 PSI? barbed fitting though.

Here's the right stuff (and not expensive):

McMaster-Carr braided hoses

 

[ron in sc]

Photo of copper pipe for compressed air from attached garage to detached garage under constuction.

 

[Steve in Mi]

Nice setup ron. If anybody is looking for the pipe hangers like you used, or even in 304 Stainless @ ~ $23.00 ea., McMaster-Carr has them on page 1442.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[Chili Palmer]

95/5 is 95% tin, and the 5% balance is antimony with a trace of bismuth and or silver. It has a higher melting point and is more difficult to use then the old 50/50 solder which was half tin and half lead. Usually the first number refers to the tin content, and the second number to the balance content. The success of any soldered joint is to make sure that both mating surfaces are clean and free of any oxidation. The second thing that is required is a good heat source to uniformly heat the joint to get the solder to flow into the joint. Without the proper amount of heat, you will get a cold soldered joint that will either leak or fail in the future. Like welding, temperature is all important to creating the perfect bond.

Not only will the joint be a "cold" joint but if you don't heat up the 95/5 solder it will be brittle which will create minute cracks in the solder itself. I believe the new solder is based on some new European soldering standards. However, the 95/5 requires a much higher temp. to create a successful joint, I want to say the numbers are approx. 285 deg for 50/50 and around 450 deg for 95/5. The company I work for actually had to recall approx. 10% of our product due to the manufacturer switching solders but not using the proper heat (it was actually a supplier TO our manufacturer) which caused our equipment to just stop working (due to minute cracks in the solder) yet the batteries were still fully charged...

With this experience I am 100% trying to stay away from 95/5 at this time.


EDIT: Nice looking air lines by the way...!

 

[ron in sc]

I had to relocate the little drain tank I made due to where the air will enter the new garage. Photo is of lines installed. I have cover part of copper line with pvc to help avoid damage when digging.

I'm pressure testing it now. Failed first test. I over tightened one of the unions and cracked a solder joint so I had to re solder. I heard it pop when I was tightening it.

 

[mike944]

I tried the 95/5 tin/antimony solder, because i read that it makes the strongest joints, but i can't get good joints. I mean they seem to seal ok, but i don't know how solidly they connect, and they just look crappy. Is there a special flux for this solder?

 

[bmwpower]

Nice setup ron. If anybody is looking for the pipe hangers like you used, or even in 304 Stainless @ ~ $23.00 ea., McMaster-Carr has them on page 1442.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Yea, but no copper.

Aren't you supposed to use copper hangers when using copper pipe?

 

[Steve in Mi]

Yea, but no copper.

Aren't you supposed to use copper hangers when using copper pipe?

I don't know of any hard and fast rule that covers that although I think these hangers are probably available in copper or at least copper clad if you look further. Any time you have dissimilar metals in contact there is the potential for galvanic action. I noticed some of the other hangers used a rubber sleeve to avoid this. In a pinch a few wraps with rubber/plastic electrical tape or a piece of split hose should be adequate to prevent any reaction. I don't know about the reactivity of copper on stainless, relatively mild is my guess as I see a fair amount of SS hardware on copper buss bars.

 

[Ron Lombardo]

I;m a Plumber / Pipe fitter ... the copper split ring hangers are for copper tubing size and the galvanized Split ring hangers are for steel pipe size and they will also fit PVC,& Cast iron pipe.

The newest solder out there is LEAD FREE and its stronger then 95/5 and easier to use. For a beginner use a propane torch its not as hot and gives you more time to make a nice solder joint. Also use a wet rag once the joint is sodlered ..you can reheat it and wipe it.

There is also a less expensive hanger that I like the best ..its called a VAN HANGER .. its made of copper and you can use a piece of 1/2" copper instead of 3/8 rod. Makes it simpler ..you dont need all the hardware.

One minor thought and this comes from experience ...the AIR LINE MAIN should be lower and the tees face up and a U turn down to the point of termination ..the main should ALWAYS pitch back to the compressor... so the water can be drained there ..they have auto drains which is essentially a backwards steam trap. Then at the bottom of the air lien drop a small valve to drain the water in the drop.

My 2 cents.

Personally I used SCH 80 PVC for my airlines ..cleaner cheaper and hold s the same pressure.

 

[bmwpower]

...Personally I used SCH 80 PVC for my airlines ..cleaner cheaper and hold s the same pressure.

Let the flames begin....

 

[VDubJoe]

Ordered my clamps from MSC. Here's the link. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=02162634
.87 cents a peice, copper plated.
Joe

 

[Ron Lombardo]

Employees, manufacturing, construction sites, employers ... I thought we were talking a home garage ???

If it is a commercial application in a manufacturing enviroment .. welded sch 80 seamless ... I though we were talking ease of installation by a non professional.

 

[PAToyota]

Hmm... I thought we were talking safety as well...

 

[thorpe5278]

I also used schedule 80 PVC. But I am going back an re-plumbing with copper. I think schedule 80 is safe but it does not cool the air like copper and lets to much moisture through.

Have you ever had any problems with static electricity using PVC?

 

[ron in sc]

Finally finished installing air lines to new detached garage. Compressed air to new garage functioning with compressor located in attached garage.

 

[KenS]

Finally finished installing air lines to new detached garage. Compressed air to new garage functioning with compressor located in attached garage.

Please indulge me to take this slightly off topic for a moment:

Ron, how do you like your Little Giant ladder shown in the most recent photos you posted? My son is a construction foreman and recommended I get one for general home use after my old aluminum 6-foot step-ladder failed dumping me eight feet onto the concrete garage floor. The Werner MT-22 is about half the price of the similar Little Giant, but I hear the Little Giant has better fit and finish.

About the only negative thing I hear about Little Giant is that they are heavy and the hinges can be a little cantankerous. The really funny thing is that the QVC web site seams to have the best price on them.

 

[jesselyons2002]

I never knew you could use copper line for air lines. I works at a plumbing warehouse and see this stuff all the time. Sometimes we throw aways this stuff. Like M, L, and K copper lines.

 

[PAToyota]

Sometimes we throw away this stuff. Like M, L, and K copper lines.

You are kidding? If nothing else, scrap prices for copper is a couple bucks a pound...

 

[uparms]

Why use copper? Any benefit? Why not cast iron or PVC? Why not some of the new flexible stuff, (Expense).

 

[PAToyota]

Search for reasons not to use PVC - discussed to death. Short answer: shrapnel when it fails.

Copper or black pipe (not cast) are the old standbys. There are aluminum systems too, which go together pretty easily, but are usually as expensive (or more so) than copper.

My system is copper because sweating pipes is easier for me than threading black iron.

 

[ron in sc]

Ron, how do you like your Little Giant ladder shown in the most recent photos you posted?

I highly recommend the little giant ladder. Very, very stable. No problem with hinges once you figure out how they work. Ladder is heavy but that's the price of a well made stable ladder I suppose.

 

[KenS]

I highly recommend the little giant ladder. Very, very stable. No problem with hinges once you figure out how they work. Ladder is heavy but that's the price of a well made stable ladder I suppose.

Thanks Ron. I just wish we had a dealer near where I live. I did find that you can buy Little Giant demos at a discount here:

http://www.laddersales.com/little-giant.html?gclid=CO_v7OP6-pUCFQJvswodkxiHEw

 

[Torque1st]

I agree with ZRX61 about the drip leg by the tank. That long virtical is where you are going to get most of your water. For sure with copper and it's greater cooling ability.
I sure like that drip leg between the doors. Big dia and a good valve. Lots of capicity and easy to get to. That is what you need by the tank.

Draining that section back to the tank where the auto drain can take care of it is OK.

NEVER use PVC on a compressed air system. In many states, the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) has stepped in and regulated against using brittle plastics such as PVC in compressed air applications, and additional states are following suit. Some PVC pipe and fitting manufacturers have warnings on their sites. There are some grades of ABS and HDPE pipe and tubing that are suitable for air. Good luck finding them tho.

One of the functions of the air distribution system is to cool the air and condense moisture out of it. Metal pipes allow the air to cool, plastic pipes do not.

Copper is illegal in some areas because the soldered fittings let go when heated and accelerate a fire. Plastic would be prohibited for the same reason.

Iron pipe is not difficult to use. Just buy an assortment of ******* and fittings from the Home Box Store and return the excess when your project is done. Personally I like galvanized pipe for corrosion resistance but many localities specify black pipe by building code.