Compressor Airline Plumbing

[MFortie]

How much trouble am I asking for by not including a 'slope' in my airlines?

Reason being, I haven't quite figured out where I'm putting a compressor yet. I'm in the process of running electrical (lights & receptacles) in my 40'x60' steel building (16' walls) and have a 19' scissor lift on rental for the month.

I'm getting pretty close to wrapping up the electrical portion and am thinking I might as well run some airlines on the top girt while I have the lift. My thought is to run a horizontal run around the top of the walls with vertical drops at the corners and center columns (8 in all) -- that way I can put the compressor at any one location when I finally get everything else laid out. I might even put it outside in a shed and plumb through the wall.

I've already decided on aluminum lines, so we won't go into the pros/cons on materials and figure I'll need a drop leg at each outlet with a drain.

Would I be best served by running 3/4" lines for the whole system to give myself the flexibility I'm looking for?

BTW, the compressor will be in a vertical, 5hp flavor (haven't picked one quite yet.)

Thanks in advance!

 

[OldracerJones]

I would use the 3/4" lines, larger volume means more air availability. I used a drop at each regulator and it has worked great with no water issues with my plasma cutter or paint guns.

 

[akdiesel]

I also have a 40x60 shop and I also have 3/4" lines. As mentioned the larger air lines allow for less friction and more air capacity. The extra cost in larger lines seems to be to close to be an issue.
As for slopes in your lines, the air needs to be as dry as possible before it gets into your air distribution lines and tank, although the tank is a part of the dryer system in a basic set up. I don't have any slope in my lines but I am also in a low humid location and I have also taken some measures to cool my air and collect moisture before it gets to the main tank.

 

[ALinCarolina]

I think I understand what you are saying. I would just make sure there was no dip somewhere unless there was a drop at that point. In other words, make it so any water either flows back to the tank, or to the the end or down a drop. Even a slight slope would be better than having a low point. I'm planning on a similar setup for a 36' X 58'

 

[matt_i]

Don't think its a problem if you face the tees UP and force the water to climb first before it can go back down. Put a drip leg somewhere on the header, that tee going Down. The water will go there.

 

[LandofRath]

Why cant you add a little slope when you install them? Just design it so you have options when you get your compressor so your not locked into where it has to go. Then it should give you options to expand at a later date as well..

 

[jloehlein]

I have a similar setup and ran 3/4" copper above one of my wall girts. I did add a slope with all the tees for the drops facing upwards and a leg for a drain with the tee facing down at the low end. I'm in VA and it gets relatively humid, but I've never seen any water come out of my air line system. My compressor does have an aftercooler on it though and I get a bunch of water out of the tank drain.

I think you'll be fine without the slope, but would put the tees for the drops facing up and a drip leg with a tee facing down somewhere, as matt_i suggested.

 

[txturbo]

Mine goes through my garage wall to the outside of the house then runs 40 feet with a slight downward slope, goes up 4 feet, with a drain at the bottom, then runs 40 feet back to the garage with an upward slope, goes back into the garage and is hung under the ceiling joists. All takeoffs are off the top and go up 6 inches then turn down to about 4 feet off the floor with a drain on each leg. All with galvanized 3/4" pipe. Use metal so it cools the air and condenses the moisture out. The larger the main run the better because the air velocity will be slower during usage allowing better condensation.

 

[MFortie]

All good info; thanks everyone!

Mark