Compressor and water in the tank

[jeepntxj]

Background: These 2 compressors are at work, outside, feeding a concrete batch plant. The air is tied together on both, but are controlled separately inside the office. Depending on how much they have to pour, they can run one or the other, or both at the same time.


The problem is, the one on the left is fairly new and is building water in the tank QUICK. It was drained Saturday, but when I drained it just a few minutes ago, I got almost 5 gallons of water from it. The tank also gets considerably hotter than the other, like hot to the touch.


It ran from 6 AM to 1 PM or so Saturday, then drained. Yesterday, it ran from around 530 AM until about 230 PM, but wasn't drained. Today, they fired up about 5 AM and I just drained it 10 minutes or so ago, say 745 AM.


We have about 10-11 compressors total across all of our plants, but this one builds water much much faster than the rest. Is this an issue, or do some compressors just do that? This one is a Schulz while the rest are either IR or Quincy.

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[Chaznsc]

Are the other compressors of this design?

 

[Kevin C]

We have timed drains on all our compressors. That looks like a pretty high CFM unit, how does it compare to the others?

 

[grumpygator]

When I drove a redi-mix truck all the aggregate was constantly being sprayed with water. That makes that a high moisture area.
Oil bath air filters , auto drain,air water seperator on air out might help.
But it might be easier to move the unit to a dryer area.
**************Just Saying********G************

 

[jeepntxj]

We have timed drains on all our compressors. That looks like a pretty high CFM unit, how does it compare to the others?

It builds pressure ALOT faster than the others. Ive got all the specs written down, somewhere... right now all the tags are covered in concrete.

We have auto-drains all over the plant, but the way these compressors are set, we cant put anything coming off the bottom except a manual valve and a hose. Too much of a chance of someone using them as a step, or hitting it with some piece of equipment.

 

[jeepntxj]

We've tried the electric timed drains in the past, but they never last long. Cement dust gets on/in them and corrodes the wires, they're too exposed to the elements, and they're constantly hosed down by yard hands.

 

[pmiranda]

Sounds like it's just running more intake air than the others... more humid air in, more water in the tank.

 

[Oldbear]

We've tried the electric timed drains in the past, but they never last long. Cement dust gets on/in them and corrodes the wires, they're too exposed to the elements, and they're constantly hosed down by yard hands.

This might be a clue - maybe the air filters on your other units allow less water than this one...

 

[dumb as a stump]

I would be curious to find out what a box fan running continiously over the equipment and tank would do to the water quantity.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

If I am reading this right from the parts breakdown on the web site it looks like that pump has three low pressure cylinders (4.75in) feeding two high pressure cylinders( 2.5 in). The specs say it is an 80cfm pump but does not say at what pressure. That thing is pumping out a massive amount of air. For a comparison my Quincy 325 puts out close to 18cfm at 175psi I believe. I think the water build up is simply a cost of the amount of air you are generating. I would guess you simply need to put a protocol in place to drain the tank more frequently. Twice a day? Or get a refrigerated dryer.

 

[Chaznsc]

I will tell you what, since you are a nice guy, I will come take this one off your hands. No, no, dont even think about paying me a hauling fee, I will do it just to help you out.

 

[jeepntxj]

I will tell you what, since you are a nice guy, I will come take this one off your hands. No, no, dont even think about paying me a hauling fee, I will do it just to help you out.

Deal! I think maybe I'd have to get $20 or so for it, lol.

The filters are good, they get blown out every other day and changed every other week or so, because of the conditions they're put up against.

The humidity thing may be the key, though. Only 30 yards or so behind me in this picture is a ship channel.

I guess like said above, we'll just have to be more diligent in draining them, if there's not really any way around it.

 

[rsanter]

Seems to menthat you have too much moisture in the air around this system. I think you need to think about relocating this and going to a twin take system that will pipe air to a second tank near where you need the air.

You can also go to a high pressure water separator between the compressor and the tank to remove most but not all of the condensate water.

You can also go to a wet tank and dry tank system

Bob

 

[A_Pmech]

For each cubic foot of air compressed x amount of water falls out of suspension. Compress 100 cubic feet of air you'll get 100x of water in the receiver. The relationship is linear.

My guess is that's your biggest and most used compressor.

The only thing you can do about it is drain the water more frequently.

 

[PT Doc]

Are the other units 20hp as well.

 

[Torque1st]

Install an automatic timed drain in an enclosure to protect it from damage.

Cement dust is hell on equipment so you may want to invest in some larger and more efficient intake filters.

Another fan installed to blow air over the receiver will increase the condensate you have to drain but it will make water removal more efficient. Keep the receiver and equipment clean and free of cement buildup. Cement dust is an insulator that reduces the amount of heat the receiver will dissipate. Some of your other compressors may need a good cleaning. People have a tendency to ignore compressors as long as they are 'working'.

It is just maintenance....

 

[mx842]

You will continue to have problems with this compressor making water until you add a cooler to the unit. Compressing air makes heat and that heat condenses in the tank. The more air it compresses and pumps into the tank the more will drop out of the air and settle in the bottom of the tank.

The heating of the air while being compressed and then sending it into the big wide open space of the cooler tank allows the air to give up the moist air it took in from the intake and along with the sudden hot vs cold temp. changes the rest of the water condenses and forms on the inside walls of the tank.

Moving that compressor to a little more user friendly location would help but a compressor that size is still going to make a lot of water so a cooler of some kind will need to be added to control the moisture content in the tank. You could buy an expensive refrigerated unit or possibly build a cheap version there on site to get the moisture to a more acceptable level.

As most of the water gets separated from the air as it enters the larger area of the tank ( sort of like how an A/C unit works) you could build a enclosed box of some sort that could stand the wear and tear of careless feet or better yet build some sort of medal shed around the whole thing which would be better than just letting that beautiful machine sit out in the open like that.

Anyway what you can do is take the air that comes out of the compressor and send it by way of a coil of copper pipe to a secondary air supply tank where the air can cool as it travels the length of coiled copper tube an then this now cooler air as it enters the larger space of the secondary tank will give up the large majority of the water and it will drop to the bottom of the tank and the dryer air can leave out of the top and back to the compressor tank.

The secondary tank needs to be vertical and long enough to hold enough water to get through the day where it can be drained off at the end of the day or be placed in an area where you can install an automatic drain that can be enclosed somewhat to protect it from the elements.

This will not keep the water from forming but it will help keep the expensive compressor tank dryer along with providing the tools or equipment that this air feeds dryer air which should keep them working longer.

I made a sub tank out of a, 8' section of 1/4" thick, 6" iron pipe, 8" would be better. I welded caps on both ends that I had drilled and welded bungs for a drain and air outlet then I ran 25' of coiled copper to a bung I welded about center line for the air intake. I ran 1/2 copper line from the compressor and as it went into the tank I went up to 11/2. This gave me enough room to weld a splash block across from the inlet for the air to strike as it entered the tank forcing it downward so the water could be separated and fall to the bottom. I welded in the splash block before I put the end caps on so I could drop it in and hold it in place while I welded it. I left the tank with 1/2" iron pipe back to the tank entrance.