Compressor auto-drain setup question

[Lu-Max]

I know that auto condensate drains for compressors has been discussed a bunch on this forum, but I still wanted to get some input on my options. I am buying a 60 gallon 2-stage compressor that will be kept in a very secure, ventilated shed out back behind my workshop. This is my hobby workshop, so although I will use the compressor often some weeks, there will also be periods where it will see little to no use. I want to set up an auto-drain on it instead of a manual ball valve since heading around to the back of my shop to unlock the shed just to quickly drain the condensation each time would get tiresome after while.

I've read numerous threads on the forum and have come up with two possible solutions.

Electronic Drain Valve:

These are programmable to open for a brief time at a specified interval. The longest interval I see on most of them is 45 minutes. Even using this longest setting would be kind of silly for my setup. I am thinking about getting a 120V plug-in mechanical timer, and then plugging the 120V electronic drain valve into it. This way I could set the mechanical timer to switch on for only say 15 minutes/day, then also set the electronic drain valve to run only once every 15 minutes. This would result in the auto-drain cycling once every 24 hours which I would be just fine with.

Mechanical:

Another option is a mechanical setup using a Moisture Minder kit or similar that only cycles when the compressor does. This actually sounds OK to me but I am curious as to the reliability and setup complexity vs. the electronic ones?

Option 3 would be a "zero-loss" setup, but most of these kits are at least $250, and I would prefer to spend less than that.

I would appreciate your input as to which option you think would work best. Not interested in the manual ball valve option for me particular setup.
Thanks.

 

[ctgoodman]

I'd like to hear about this too. I'm getting tired of opening the drain on my compressor when I'm done. Well, when I remember to do it..

 

[Cyberbear]

First, you need to keep in mind what your tank operating pressure is and choose a system designed for that pressure. Smaller compressors can get by with those simple $10.00 auto drain kits from Harbor Freight. My tank pressure is 175 psi and I needed a commercial auto drain unit, and I found a nice one on Ebay for $50.00 that automatically burps each time the tank pressure drops below a certain level.
Using the time regulated type system is more expensive and does no more than the simple auto drains on the market. I ran a brass line through my exterior wall and it spits the condensation outside the shop with no mess to deal with.

 

[pepi]

There is a discussion here regarding the Moisture Minder.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181031&highlight=moisture+minder&page=2

I used the HF cheapee, for some time, got educated on the advantages of a mechanical/pneumatic over electric control

The electric as you well know requires wiring, that introduces a point of failure, not shared by the mechanical/pneumatic type. I could go on common sense will tell you the rest.

From what I have learned, experienced, the Moisture Minder is the way to go. Evoid was mentioned and $50..... For 60 bucks, link for that is included in the discussion. It is a no brainer that the MM for 60 beans is the one.

I am a HotRod builder/IT guy so I have no horse in the race, so buy what you like as far as I am concerned. I do have hands on and 10 years of experience with the mechanical/pneumatic auto drain... ftiw

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

I have an automatic electrical type blow down no setting greater then 45 min not good so I have a large contactor on my 2 stage 175psi comp. when the lights go out the compressor is turned off and not action till I am in the shop. This has worked great for me. for the last 10 years. Just remembered I tide the electric blow down into the light switch because the compressor continued to blow down when everything was off during the night and lost air to the comp.

 

[Lu-Max]

I'll read that thread on the MM again, thanks pepi.

Cyberbear, can you give me more details on the one you are using? Thanks.

 

[sberry]

Its not likely you have to drain this every time you blow up a tire. Some places its a minor issue. With a charges system it could go a long time for diy use without needing a drain, months. Depends on the climate and duty cycle.

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks sberry. It actually is quite humid where I will be moving, plenty of days with fog so a tank drain would be a very good idea.

 

[Cyberbear]

It's been a while ago but I remember the older unit I used was labeled "Drain-O-matic" or something like that. There are other similar types but they can be a little costly, so shop around. They all do about the same thing, then it all comes down to price.

 

[ScaldedDog]

I used the auto - drain my Eaton compressor came with, and set it up on a timer as described in option 1 of the original post. Works great.

Mark

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks Mark.

 

[sberry]

I recall old units used to have a drop tube in them and usually only a petcock in the bottom. When they sat in the cold nothing that froze inside hurt anything. Now that we have them warm year around can use plumbed drains.
I have 3 tanks and manuals, if they been running a lot I read a thread about it as a reminder and walk over and give them a blast. Once the water has condensated in the tank it doesn't hurt much, get too much and it takes up space.

 

[Lu-Max]

I just want to prevent THIS from ever happening with my compressor.

(Credits: The link above is from the pirate4x4 forum)

 

[sberry]

Yes its a good idea to try to prevent that but its pretty rare and you are way likely to die in a car ahead of that. Your tank is pumped full of wet humid air, always wet inside. Body work, sandblasting and paint really add water fast. Blowing up a tire or impact not so much.
When we run maintainence most of the water forms in the lead comp tank, start real work a lot more forms in a receiver and a little more in the backup comp tank.

 

[SEV22XS]

They do make a float type auto drain that only opens when it senses water. I know as we have them here at work. How well they work I can't speak to.

 

[Lu-Max]

At this point I am leaning toward the Moisture Minder setup. It performs a quick mechanical dump each time the compressor cycles which will be perfect for me. This way there's no need to double-up on electronic timers. Suburban has a newer version available now called the "Moisture Minder II" (Suburban part number 142-0000). It has an internal reservoir vs. the original which had the small reservoir on the top. I'm now scrounging around to find a package deal on the MMII plus their deluxe installation package.

MMII:

MMII PDF

Original Moisture Minder (152-0000):

 

[Falcon67]

I looked at all these systems and for the money, I just put in a 1/4" gate valve and ran a pipe out of the wall. I have to move a bunch of stuff to even get to the compressor door, but then it's open the valve for 10 seconds and done. I do it about once a month. I'm not a production shop and there's never much water in the tank, maybe a real good spit if I forget about it for a while. Actually, I think I've only done it three times this whole year.