Compressor Automatic Drain

[mwritter]

I recently bought an Ingersol Rand Automatic Electronic Drain Valve, Model# EDV 2000. It came with the main assembly/power cord, , a 90-degree fitting for the botton of the tank, a large kunkle valve, and a large liquid-filled pressure gauge.

The IR instructions literally say:

1. Install EDV 2000 using proper sealant.
2. Supply EDV 2000 with electrical supply voltage.

There's no picture of the actual assembly. Can anyone enlighten me with some details?

 

[Provincial]

Here is a link to a PDF brochure that has a little more information.

http://www.thermokingedmonton.com/a.../EDV-2000 Electronic Drain Valve_Brochure.pdf

Check to see what the voltage is on your unit. It could be either 120V or 240V. Be sure to hook it up to the right voltage. If it has a 120V plug, you can just plug it into a wall outlet.

This unit is designed to be used in commercial applications where the compressor is cycling regularly during a work day. It will open the drain for a set time (up to 10 seconds) at an interval that you choose, up to 45 minutes apart.

Because this uses a timer independent of the compressor cycling, consider some sort of control that removes the power if you aren't using the compressor. Otherwise it will keep bleeding the tank all the time (like at night or when you are on vacation) and the compressor will cycle to build pressure back when enough pressure has been lost that it kicks the pressure switch in.

 

[mwritter]

Thanks for the help but I'm still pretty lost with this. Here is what was in the box from Northern Tool (I didn't take a pic of the fitting for the bottom of the tank, I know where that goes):

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Your tank probably already has a gauge to indicate internal pressure so the new gauge shouldn't be needed. The relief valve (has the brass handle shouldn't be needed either as your tank should have a pressure relief valve installed to prevent overcharging should the compressor switch not cut off at preset. The gauge would normally be fitted to the safety valve and that assembly fitted into the tank via one of the available bungs.

The electric valve appears that it is fixed where time lapsed and bleed valve open rates are set (I think my neighbor has a similar setup). Install the elbow into the tank drain. Install the electric valve into the elbow (or use a length of black iron pipe with another fitting to move it outwards). Note the flow indicator arrow cast into the electric valve body. Install another section of black iron, or a compression fitting with a length of copper tubing, to divert the blow off where you want it to discharge (E.G. a hole through the wall to vent outside or a small lidded bucket filled with steel wool to dampen the noise inside). When this electric valve opens up it will make a discerning amount of noise! The red handle is provided to shut off air flow so it doesn't discharge when the valve opens (like when you're going out of town or going in the house for the evening). I use a Speedaire programmable drain. It goes off every hour for 2-3 seconds. The small amount of air discharged would require a few days before the compressor kicks in. Unless you can hear the discharge while in the house like when you're sleeping or the compressor kicking then just leave it plugged in and the red handle turned to allow venting all the time.

 

[Provincial]

You also turn the red-handled valve off when you clean the screen (which is retained by the knurled nut at the end of the piece with the valve) that protects the electric valve from rust/dirt coming out of the tank. The timing of this cleaning depends on use, but in a home shop environment it should be cleaned at least once a year.

 

[mwritter]

If I just need the valve in the first pic that's easy enough to figure out. I just can't understand why they sent the other parts.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

I'm guessing the kit came with all the pieces to setup a tank without all the required bits installed. Simple enough but overkill for a lot of folks like yourself.