Compressor Automatic Drain

[MikeC55]

I've searched far and wide on the subject and it seems for a small (20 gallon), occasional use compressor, I'm limited to either a HF pressure change-actuated auto-drain valve or an electronic valve ($$ range 10 - 40). I'm getting a new tank and think this would be a good idea but am not sure which option would be best for a compressor that only gets occasional use. I'd still rather not empty it though because I do use it to adjust tire pressure and use a nail gun once in a while. A die grinder with cut-off wheel is probably the biggest air user I have. I know the plumbing supplied with the HD unit is garbage but the valve itself is at least serviceable and I'd use copper plumbing anyway. I also like the idea that the more you use the compressor (so it cycles), the more this type will open and drain while the electronic valve is simply a timed opening with no account of duty cycle.

Thoughts?

 

[alcorelli]

When I looked into adding an electronic unit to my compressor, I only found units that fired off at 45 second or one minute intervals. I was looking more for like once a week. My 60 gallon 5 horsepower compressor is in my house garage and gets used infrequently, especially now that we have a slew of Milwaukee 12 volt tools. The pressure change ones seem like a good choice for me. I did not know they existed. If you would like to share a link for them, I would appreciate it. Thank you

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[Z7What]

I purchased the HF auto drain when i bought my 29G 2HP compressor. Its been a few years since i bought them so im having a hard time remembering but IIRC the auto drain kit either broke while installing it or broke shortly after installing it. Instead of looking for a replacement i ended up just taking stainless tubing from the bottom drain up along the side and attached it with a valve to the belt guard, every so often i open the valve to drain it.

Wayne

 

[RumRiver5.0]

When I first got my compressor I wired in my timed drain. Thing is, it would scare the living **** out of me when I was under a car - so that had to end.

What I did was wired it to the electric motor power and set it to max blast (ten sec). Works great. If I'm not using it, I blast it out once a week if I remember..

 

[MikeC55]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought about the electronic one scaring me with a blast while I wasn't expecting it... The HF one only works when the compressor cycles at least. Link to it is here: https://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-68244.html

 

[alcorelli]

I can cobble one up with a relay and solenoid valve. Good idea to hook it up to the motor.
Thank you.

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[joshmodelskidoo]

I used some galvanized pipe with a valve on it for years so the water was pretty much just in the pipe. I recently hooked up the hf automatic drain but i plumbed it in with 1/4in copper vs the stiff plastic line it came with. I have herd it kick on a few times bit I haven’t pumped up my compressor or really tried it out to say if it works good or not

 

[Fixnair]

Auto drains are a good idea. Electronic ones are best suited for an industrial setting. They do consume a lot of air and if left powered up will drain your tank overnight. The pressure drop valves are good also but whatever kind you choose be sure to install a manual drain ahead of the automatic valve. This way you can test if your automatic valve is doing its job. If you open the manual valve and get a lot of water expelled that should tell you your auto valve is not doing it's job.

 

[Showkey]

Two issues.........the older they get the worse the problems both issue are related to debris.

1. They leak.

2. They clog up.

 

[red94chev]

I put one in at work a few months ago and I love it so far. I put it on a switch right next to the compressor switch so it's easy to turn on and off. I have it set for a 3 second blast every 20 mins which should hopefully keep any debris from causing issues. Time will tell as far as reliability goes.

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[Robby321]

I got a HF simple drain 25 years ago. Simple when pressure hits a few pounds, opens and drains. Zero problem. Can't find them anymore.

 

[dogdog]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought about the electronic one scaring me with a blast while I wasn't expecting it... The HF one only works when the compressor cycles at least. Link to it is here: https://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-68244.html

Don't get the HF kits they ****...

 

[gm54210]

Don't get the HF kits they ****...

Actually, they BLOW . . .

 

[hilld]

My autodrain goes off once a day (adjustable up to 99 hours). I purchased it before a lot of the smart plugs became available as that might be the cheaper route now.

https://www.mcmaster.com/3976T3/

 

[Bmw4life]

I need help with these auto drain valves. I already tried 2, and they seem to just bust, and then they're wide open, and they're just draining all the air uncontrollably.



Is it that the pressure is too high? I don't understand why they're failing.

 

[b-dog]

I have a cheapo like the one above and it has been working for 5+ years, my tank is 150 psi. Maybe your tank is old with a bunch of rust flaking off...?

I plugged mine into a switched outlet. When I turn on the shop lights, the compressor drain/vents. I also exhausted it through the wall to the outdoors to keep the scary noises at bay.

 

[Rinspeed]

I might be the odd one out but I don't like them at all. I simply bought a couple SS fittings, a ball valve and a short length of 1/2" tubing. One or twice a month I go over and crack the valve slightly to start letting the water out and then can open it farther. Many people will run a line outside but my walls are concrete so I just have a small catch pan under to catch all the water.

 

[danielbuck]

I use an electric valve, but I don't use the timer feature, I wired it to a switch and just flip the switch for a second or two every time I turn the lights on or off in my garage. My compressor is located around the back, but wired the switch to the wall next to the lights. simple, and easy to remember.

 

[welder4956]

After my HF drain valve disintegrated, I ordered a better quality version from Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/product/CONRADER-Automatic-Drain-Valve-1-4-12U302

 

[rossn]

After my HF drain valve disintegrated, I ordered a better quality version from Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/product/CONRADER-Automatic-Drain-Valve-1-4-12U302

@welder4956 - How long have you had the Conrader drain valve installed, and how is it holding up / working? I have sensitive hearing, and even the pressure switch going off is too much for me (tinnitus). Does it reduce the pressure or it's just the full pressure coming out of the hose, loudly?

 

[rlitman]

... I have sensitive hearing, and even the pressure switch going off is too much for me (tinnitus). Does it reduce the pressure or it's just the full pressure coming out of the hose, loudly?

I have a 180 PSI tank and run a 1/2" ball valve on the drain, and the noise of an open pipe would be deafening, but into my drain muffler, you don't have to raise your voice to speak over it.

From my ball valve, I plumbed in a piece of 1/2" PEX, drilled some holes in the last few inches of the PEX, and shoved that into a container full of GutterFoam.

GutterFoam 5 in. K-Style Foam Gutter Filter (10-Piece) GF-K5-10box - The Home Depot

Eliminate dangerous dirty gutter cleaning and start spending time in doing the things you enjoy by adding GUTTERSTUFF K-Style Foam Gutter Filter.

www.homedepot.com

At the time, Home Depot would sell you a single wedge of foam for around $7, and that was plenty of material to fill up a 2 gallon pretzel "barrel". Off a 1/4" line like you get on one of those auto-drains, a mayonnaise jar should be enough. If you've got some worn out Scrub Daddy sponges, or other sources of coarse reticulated foam, that would work well. Since the drain water contains rust, I'd stick with a plastic foam, and not bother with something like stainless wool muffler packing.

I have my "muffler" tilted sideways, so any water runs out where I can collect and dispose of it.

 

[niget2002]

I have one of the HF valves sitting on a shelf waiting to be installed. I just haven't installed it yet.

I've also considered buying one of the cheaper electric valves. My plan was to set it for the minimum run time and plug it into a smart switch so it was only scheduled to come on once a week.

Currently I just have a valve that's easy to reach running through a hose to the outside of the shop. I open the valve when I think about it either while turning the compressor on, or turning things off at the end of the day.

 

[imagineer]

Whereas I don't have an automatic drain on the tank, I do have one on the home made air cooler that's between the pump and the tank.

At the bottom of the air cooler there are 24vdc "normally open" landscape sprinkler valves. The power supply for these is powered by one leg to the compressor motor (I.e., when the compressor starts, the valves close).

As the compressor runs, the hot air is piped through the cooler and then (through the check valve) into the compressor tank. When the compressor shuts off, the power is cut to the landscape valves, but the pressure is too high for them to open. Once the air pressure in the pump discharge line is reduced via the bleed-off line, the landscape valves open and any moisture is ejected through a small tube going through my shop wall to the outside.

If there was no air cooler, the volume of air in the discharge line would be considerably less and the bleed down would only take a few seconds. Due to the added volume of the air cooler, the cycle time for the bleed-off line to do it's thing is more like 20 seconds now.

The air cooler does remove a fair amount of heat and moisture, but I still have a manual valve at the bottom of the tank that's plumbed via a "T" fitting to the discharge tube for the landscape valves.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I know I am in the minority but I paid to have the auto drain on mine removed before they delivered it (Champion 80 gallon, 5HP, 2-stage)

Just not a believer - to east to just crack the drain every couple days.

I built a redneck “dryer”. There are two drains in the piping in the tool room and one at the bottom of each leg. I get a little water out of the first one in the tool room. Hardly any out of the bottom of the first leg and have never gotten anything out of the other three legs. I have MotorGuard filter/regulators at each of my three “outlets” and I have never gotten any moisture out of those drains either.

 

[Rockable]

For a small occasional use compressor, a manual drain is perfectly adequate and easy to use.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

On mine I just added enough copper pipe under the tank to act as a reservoir. It's copper so water doesn't corrode it much, and it's big enough that I only have to empty it a couple times a year. More you use or more humid your area install a bigger reservoir. Even if your tank is on the floor, it's easy enough to stick some copper pipe in the corner against the wall, or use larger diameter.

 

[engineer2]

I got the HF auto drain and it has worked flawlessly for years. More work to install as you have to run a line to the unloader valve. I liked the timed valves, but I like to shut it off when I shut the compressor off so it isn't clicking all the time.