compressor condensate piping critique / help?

[alecmcmahon]

can the more knowledgable folk please critique my test pipe setup for my 60 gallon setup?

I dont want to go too crazy with a ton of loops/drops - is two drops, with 2 drains sufficient? they are on 30" sections of 1/2"

in let out of the compressor would go in on the bottom left Tee with a 1/2" flex hose, the flex hose on the top right past the regulator/seperator would be going to a 50' hose reel, and the T on the top right would be futures for seperate drops across the shop.

thoughts?

 

[Bretny]

All your trying to do is remove water from the air? Steel pipe is a poor choice for this as it will quickly rust inside and possibly limit CFM. There is a better way that will remove water and save your tank. Add a cooler between the pump and tank.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/101_0068.jpg
Basicly the hot air goes in the center and cool comes out the top. You hang this on the wall so the drain on the right is down then just drain the valve as you would a compressor tank.
I have had this same system on my compressor for about 6 years and hardly ever get water out of the tank.

 

[David-L]

I have mine piped with a very similar design and have been pleased with how much it helps. I have 24 feet between my first and second drops but rarely get water out of the second. Anything is better then nothing and you can always change or add more pipe to the design later.

 

[JohnnyK8]

Looks very similar to mine - it works very well and the water that goes out is not rusty. I have two drains on mine. I think I have 48" drops.




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[alecmcmahon]

Any thoughts if I should add longer straight sections ? Would it be more beneficial over the short 30" pieces ?

 

[Kaizen]

Any thoughts if I should add longer straight sections ? Would it be more beneficial over the short 30" pieces ?

I used 4 ten foot sections on the wall at a slight incline. so mine goes back and forth with 2 90's on each end. I have a drain at the beginning so all the water drains back to that. I take air at the end which makes an upside down J down to the supply. Works very well. Yeah I have as much rust in my drain water as my tank drain water. never in my tools though. It did cost me about 250 bucks with all the fittings and hangers so in my new pretty garage i'll probably spend the money on an actual dryer like listed above. still up in the air. I like the long lengths of pipe for their simplicity. never have to worry about desiccant

 

[rattle_snake]

Any thoughts if I should add longer straight sections ? Would it be more beneficial over the short 30" pieces ?

The effectiveness of the system is proportional to the temp drop. More/longer pipe will cool more, condense more water out.

The steel pipe will likely outlast you. I see you have a filter right after it too.

Your flow will be limited by the hose reel and quick connects. Use Milton 'V', not 'M'.

As stated cooling before the tank is a better approach but more involved. The tank will outlast you as well.

 

[alecmcmahon]

Went for it, if it works , great - if not I can always add on, I'm not doing anything so crazy it's super important for moisture free air, I just wanted to set myself up with something basic and not spend a ton of money

 

[Weslsew]

Went for it, if it works , great - if not I can always add on, I'm not doing anything so crazy it's super important for moisture free air, I just wanted to set myself up with something basic and not spend a ton of money

What did you use to attach it to the wall? I need some brackets like that

 

[alecmcmahon]

What did you use to attach it to the wall? I need some brackets like that

Split ring pipe clamp, and ceiling bracket. You cut threaded rod to the size you need. You'll find them in the plumbing department of home Depot/Lowe's

 

[alecmcmahon]

new problems - sigh - I bought this 60 gallon compressor second hand off craigslist, seller said it worked great.

Compressor wouldnt pump up past 40 lbs, felt hot air spitting out the head when running, but didnt leak when i turned it off. Only purges air when pumping and wont build pressure.

Took the head off - looks like i'm ordering new gaskets.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hmmm. Sorry to hear that. But at least you have the skills and desire to fix.

Not to pee in your cheerios, but it looks like the valve-to-hose_reel hose is a restriction. The swivel on it is small. I would replace with a non-swivel type. It is possible to use a fixed end pre made hose without a union of you take the reel off the wall.

 

[alecmcmahon]

Hmmm. Sorry to hear that. But at least you have the skills and desire to fix.

Not to pee in your cheerios, but it looks like the valve-to-hose_reel hose is a restriction. The swivel on it is small. I would replace with a non-swivel type. It is possible to use a fixed end pre made hose without a union of you take the reel off the wall.

I was concerned about restrictions, but didnt think the hose swivel would of been it. I was concerned about the other end of the hose I had to go from 1/2" pipe to 1/4" pipe and valve to connect it.

 

[Bretny]

I have seen 1/2in pipe so corroded in a air system that it only had a 3/16 hole down the center. This was about 30ft from the compressor and past many 90*. It was near the end of a run that had a blow gun on it and thats all it ever had. I wouldnt use 1/2 black pipe if you ever have to replace anything. 3/4 and copper on my system.

 

[TractorJeff]

Order a Rebuild kit and change the Valves out while you have the head off.

 

[Norcal]

Order a Rebuild kit and change the Valves out while you have the head off.

Is it even possible to get repair parts for Harbor Freight products?

 

[BoostedOne]

Id run longer drops from your loops to your valves. Thats where the water collects, and once the water level hits that of your bottom loop run, its going to pull it with the airflow.

I have steel piping running the perimeter of my shop along the top. I then have straight drops to the outlets. I tee'd the drop about 4.5 feet from the ground. The branch of the tee goes to the outlet. The run continues another 2 feet to the valves. i dont do the loop thing.

Im constantly out in my shop and use the air heavily in a hot, humid climate(Florida). I drain my tank once every 3 or 4 months, and I crack the valves on the drops every month or two. The only time I get moisture coming out of the lines is when I have been running a sander 6-10 hours a day for several days.