StormcrowAz
Well-known member
I know there have been a lot of threads/discussions surrounding compressors and I think I’ve read through most of them, probably twice. Looking for thoughts, opinions, and constructive criticisms on what I’m looking to do. Apologies in advance for the word count and appreciate your time/feedback.
The basics: I would consider myself a hobby guy. Minor automotive, fabrication, and general tinkering projects. I would like to keep my die grinder happy (currently most frequently used air hog) plus eventually want to get a blast cabinet for small parts and possibly do some painting. My current air compressor is an oil-less Craftsman 30 gallon that has always been lacking. Lately it’s been sounding pretty rough and I’d really like to step it up a few notches. Buy once, cry once is what I’m looking to do with a nice shop set-up. A 5hp, 80 gallon unit sounds like it would suit my needs and I would like to keep the cost around $2k for the compressor.
First – The Compressor. I’ve been religiously looking at Craigslist and Offer Up (I don’t do Facebook) for the older used models, as most seem to feel that is the best balance of cost/value. Around here the only things I’ve seen are pretty beat-up looking, been left outside, 3-phase units. Plus spending upwards of $1k on something that looks rusty and was certified in 1995 gives me pause for concern. Not really interested in another project, would like something turn-key. General consensus seems to be Saylor Beall and Champion as the top contenders for the best new purchase option. Quincy used to be another on my list, but there have been grumblings lately about their QC being questionable on their lower-end units. The Saylor Beall VT-PL-735-80 looks real nice, but coming in around $3200. The Champion VR5-8 is more reasonable at about $2200. But for that kind of money, Eaton has a 7.5hp Polar Air set-up (PPE07V080V1) for almost the same cost. I’m thinking of going that route unless someone can talk me out of it.
Second issue – Electrical. Of course where I’m putting this thing is on the complete opposite end of the shop where the panel is, so I’m looking at a 100’ run of wire/conduit. From what I’ve read 6 gage with a 50 amp breaker is sufficient. My big bummer here is that the manual states to put the unit on a dedicated circuit, but with my panel situation I’m not sure I can swing that. The line I originally intended to work with would also feed the swamp cooler and lift. Both are infrequent use items so could avoid the double-dipping, but still not the best option. Mostly concerned about the compressor kicking in if the swamp cooler is running.
Third – Plumbing. This is a two-part issue. I’m leaning towards keeping the air line set-up simple. Four hose reels should be fine to feed everything I need to do, with the exception of the sand blaster, which I would run a dedicated line to. I don’t think I need to run drops every 10 feet around the circumference of the shop. I’ve been using one hose reel towards the front of the shop for years now and it’s not too bad. Is it necessary to run a complete loop around the shop for the extra reels? I figure if I ran a central line up and across the shop, branching off to the reels, it would cut the copper (yes, I’m using copper. Probably ¾” to the reels) usage in half. I know the loop provides pressure equalization and such, plus added air capacity. But would this be a necessity in my case? Here’s a generic mock-up of my shop (30x50x14) – I’m putting the compressor in a small shed outside. Red is the future blast cabinet. Green are the hose reels - two towards the roll-up door are lower and manual, the two closest to the compressor are higher up, retractable type. The Yellow lines represent the central copper line running down the middle of the shop. I didn’t put the down-drops for anything because I’m lazy and regardless if I went with the full 150’ loop or the central set-up, those need to be there anyways.
shop air 1 by TODD W, on Flickr
Plumbing – Both air and electrical. The way I figure it…I’ve got two options for going to/from the compressor shed. One is to run the lines on the outside of the shop, putting a hole up top in whatever wood panels (soffit?) are up there and down to the shed. Or…I thought about knocking a 4 or 5 inch hole in one of the cinder blocks and making a pass-through for the conduit and air line. Kind of like sleeving the block, something like this:
shop air 2
I like the stuff not being exposed outside, and I can put a ball valve to close off air to the whole shop, plus put in an on/off/kill switch for the electrical. Both right there on the wall where if needed I wouldn’t have to walk outside and get into the shed. Good idea or bad idea?
Again, thanks for your time and input.
The basics: I would consider myself a hobby guy. Minor automotive, fabrication, and general tinkering projects. I would like to keep my die grinder happy (currently most frequently used air hog) plus eventually want to get a blast cabinet for small parts and possibly do some painting. My current air compressor is an oil-less Craftsman 30 gallon that has always been lacking. Lately it’s been sounding pretty rough and I’d really like to step it up a few notches. Buy once, cry once is what I’m looking to do with a nice shop set-up. A 5hp, 80 gallon unit sounds like it would suit my needs and I would like to keep the cost around $2k for the compressor.
First – The Compressor. I’ve been religiously looking at Craigslist and Offer Up (I don’t do Facebook) for the older used models, as most seem to feel that is the best balance of cost/value. Around here the only things I’ve seen are pretty beat-up looking, been left outside, 3-phase units. Plus spending upwards of $1k on something that looks rusty and was certified in 1995 gives me pause for concern. Not really interested in another project, would like something turn-key. General consensus seems to be Saylor Beall and Champion as the top contenders for the best new purchase option. Quincy used to be another on my list, but there have been grumblings lately about their QC being questionable on their lower-end units. The Saylor Beall VT-PL-735-80 looks real nice, but coming in around $3200. The Champion VR5-8 is more reasonable at about $2200. But for that kind of money, Eaton has a 7.5hp Polar Air set-up (PPE07V080V1) for almost the same cost. I’m thinking of going that route unless someone can talk me out of it.
Second issue – Electrical. Of course where I’m putting this thing is on the complete opposite end of the shop where the panel is, so I’m looking at a 100’ run of wire/conduit. From what I’ve read 6 gage with a 50 amp breaker is sufficient. My big bummer here is that the manual states to put the unit on a dedicated circuit, but with my panel situation I’m not sure I can swing that. The line I originally intended to work with would also feed the swamp cooler and lift. Both are infrequent use items so could avoid the double-dipping, but still not the best option. Mostly concerned about the compressor kicking in if the swamp cooler is running.
Third – Plumbing. This is a two-part issue. I’m leaning towards keeping the air line set-up simple. Four hose reels should be fine to feed everything I need to do, with the exception of the sand blaster, which I would run a dedicated line to. I don’t think I need to run drops every 10 feet around the circumference of the shop. I’ve been using one hose reel towards the front of the shop for years now and it’s not too bad. Is it necessary to run a complete loop around the shop for the extra reels? I figure if I ran a central line up and across the shop, branching off to the reels, it would cut the copper (yes, I’m using copper. Probably ¾” to the reels) usage in half. I know the loop provides pressure equalization and such, plus added air capacity. But would this be a necessity in my case? Here’s a generic mock-up of my shop (30x50x14) – I’m putting the compressor in a small shed outside. Red is the future blast cabinet. Green are the hose reels - two towards the roll-up door are lower and manual, the two closest to the compressor are higher up, retractable type. The Yellow lines represent the central copper line running down the middle of the shop. I didn’t put the down-drops for anything because I’m lazy and regardless if I went with the full 150’ loop or the central set-up, those need to be there anyways.
shop air 1 by TODD W, on FlickrPlumbing – Both air and electrical. The way I figure it…I’ve got two options for going to/from the compressor shed. One is to run the lines on the outside of the shop, putting a hole up top in whatever wood panels (soffit?) are up there and down to the shed. Or…I thought about knocking a 4 or 5 inch hole in one of the cinder blocks and making a pass-through for the conduit and air line. Kind of like sleeving the block, something like this:
shop air 2 I like the stuff not being exposed outside, and I can put a ball valve to close off air to the whole shop, plus put in an on/off/kill switch for the electrical. Both right there on the wall where if needed I wouldn’t have to walk outside and get into the shed. Good idea or bad idea?
Again, thanks for your time and input.
I actually have zero outlets on that back wall. While I was wiring it up, I did add an extra outlet on the left column of the Mohawk for the welder. 