Most generic compressor pressure switches have a fixed pressure differential. Usually 30 or 40 PSI. So, be aware that moving your cut in pressure will most likely move up the kick off pressure.
Compressors are designed from the factory with pulleys to match the pump to the motor. There generally isn’t much headroom to move the cut out pressure up without overloading the motor. Measure the current draw of the motor near the factory cut out pressure. If you are within say 10% of the full load amperage of the motor, I personally would not change anything with the pressure switch.
Unfortunately, this is one of the pit falls of a lot of single stage compressors. I ran into this with my first 90-120psi compressor. When fully pumped up, I could just squeak out 90psi working pressure on low to medium medium draw air tools, but it would fall to about 50-60 psi working pressure by the time the compressor would cut in. A higher pressure 105-135psi single stage was better, but I still couldn’t use high use tools without being seriously down on power when the compressor cut in. The newer 155PSI single sage compressors run most air tools pretty well, but at that point they start running awfully high cylinder temps. That’s the point when I upgraded to a two stage. That gave me the headroom to regulate down to 120-130 psi line pressure. Because the compressor cuts in at 145PSI, I now have a consistent line pressure, and never loose tool power as the compressor approaches cut in pressure.
