Compressor drain extension!

[bcoke]

I have a new IR 80 gal 2 stage vertical compressor and wonder the best way to extend the manual condensorite drain out to where it is easier to operate! Thanks for any suggestions and pictures do speak a mouthful......thanks Bobbycoke

 

[LB-1911]

Here is how jesse72 did it.

I thought I would share this with everyone. I just did this today but have been wanting to and researching is for a while. I hate that the a/c came with a small drain valve that was impossible to get to without tipping the a/c over. Why would they even sell it like this? Anyways, I found on google this way to make a longer ball valve drain. This is the website that I referenced:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/compressor/drain/ball_valve.htm

First I moved the a/c away from the wall and unplugged it, then drained the air. A little water came out but its been about a week or so since I started using it.

Then I removed the old small usless plug/drain that craftsman installed at the factory...

Once that was out I laid out my new parts and began assembly. This is my first time doing any plumbing like this so I hope that I used the right of thread lock! Here is my parts list:
-Ball Valve, ¼" NPT
-¼" *******, 2", 6", 6"
-1/4" dual female connector
-¼" Street Elbow
-¼" 90º Elbow
-Pipe Thread Compound

I didnt use the small cresent wrench though but the a vice was handy but not necessary

I hope that was the right way to do the thread compound. I cant think of another way! haha

I made the mistake of putting the 90 degree street elbow on before putting it on the air compressor. So that came off and I installed it on the a/c alone. This is because with the wheels and stand you cannot spin the whole tube on at once.

And thats all she wrote. It was easy to to and only took about 20 mins. If you see something I did wrong, feel free to say so on the thread so that I can fix it and also so if someone is using this as a referance then they know the right way.
I know this will make me want to drain the water alot more just because its not such a pain in the ****. So al little work now, and maybe it'll save the compressor later! Thanks guys, enjoy

 

[wvrailroader]

Home Depot sells a ready made kit for $20. After pricing individual parts, the kit was actually the cheaper way to go. I have it on my compressor and it works pretty well.

 

[dclassical]

I did the same but shorter for it to not stick out too much (and so I could move it easily - it is a 30 gallon or so, horizontal). However at the end I added a flexible hose so I could direct the air/water where I wanted it.

 

[f575gtc]

attach a really flimsy hose and you have a extreme water wiggle suitable for ages 21 and up...

 

[pepi]

Try this idea:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081TJ04O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

you can have the cable attached to the handle, pull it to dump, let go it closes.

Never a need to bend down to drain the tank. Master degree in plumbing not needed, simple, simple did I say simple

 

[sberry]

I used old water tubing, absolutely obsolete for anything else and had to make 1 flare, found all the rest, plumbed 3 vessels together and out the wall. On occasion I read an air thread and walk over and kick the valves open a couple seconds.

 

[thickhead]

That compressor deserves an automatic drain in my opinion.

 

[sberry]

Auto is another place to add another failure. A simple ball valve was the standard for decades. The plumbing job above is good especially for a first timer,,,the connector for 2 pipes is a coupling, the only change I might make,,, and its a benefit of screwed, is to keep it within the same footprint of the unit. I might remove a ******, re install the valve, add a hose barb and plumb a rubber or plastic hose could go thru the wall if this is a wet environment with lots of use.

If you see something I did wrong, feel free to say so on the thread so that I can fix it and also so if someone is using this as a referance then they know the right way.
I know this will make me want to drain the water alot more just because its not such a pain in the ****. So al little work now, and

This is solid thinking. It will save the comp a little, water is not as big a deal as its made out to be but you are on the right track about making a routine chore easier with simple materials.

 

[torqueman2002]

I have a 2-stage, also. I put on an auto drain, set to turn ON when the compressor is 1st powered up and then every 30 mins.

To prevent a mess on the floor, the discharge pipe is run through the outside wall and connected to diffusers (keeps from startling my neighbor when he mows his lawn alongside the shop ).

The discharge pipe has a 'safety' feature. There's a short piece of flexible tube connected by hose clamps between the Auto valve's discharge pipe and the exterior pipe.

In the unlikely even the out-side plumbing becomes clogged, the hose will blow-off in the shop.

 

[sberry]

If you see something I did wrong, feel free to say so on the thread so that I can fix it and also so if someone is using this as a referance then they know the right way.
I know this will make me want to drain the water alot more just because its not such a pain in the ****. So al little work now, and

Put that little short nip that is now after the valve before it in place of the long one.

 

[redmondjp]

Make sure to keep tank drained if your storage location for the compressor gets below freezing.

 

[WhiskeyTangoFox]

I hard pipe all mine out as well like above pictures. After the ball valve I stick another 1/4" ****** in then get some clear tubing and slide it over the end thread. Makes it easy to blow the **** into a bucket.

I also extend out the oil drain ****** and put a ball valve and plug in it. Less messy. More apt to change the oil.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I came out of the tank with hard pipe until clear enough to install a ball valve, then added a 90 turned up. A piece of copper tubing was added to this to rise upward. This tubing has a U bend in it to point towards the floor about 10 inches up. This allows a gallon container sitting on the floor to catch the drainage.

 

[pepi]

This certainly deserves a look as to how it's done. Not a ****** out of place, very nice and a well thought out drain design.

 

[bcoke]

Thanks all that is what I was looking for.........Bobbycoke

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... I went with a cable pull drain plug, rather than an extension,....

 

[pepi]

Bondo has the right idea, simple, clean correct solution.

 

[DieselPills]

Bondo has the right idea, simple, clean correct solution.

There is no "correct" solution. There are several 'good' ways to do it. *sigh*

If one adds an extension pipe to the bottom, you're also adding a sump to the bottom of your air tank. The water first fills up the pipe to the valve, which should be galvanized or brass/copper. This means if you open the drain often enough water will never actually accumulate on your steel tank.

Even if I don't drain my tank for a while, the water always comes out clear, never rusty, because it is sitting in a 1/2" brass ******, not rusting out the bottom of my tank.

If you don't use an extra ****** you don't get that benefit.

 

[ovrrdrive]

As mentioned I use the extension from HD. For $20 it wasn't worth trying to do anything on my own.

As also mentioned, drain it everyday and the water never pools in the bottom of tank. It's all in the hose.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Extended-Tank-Drain-Valve-Assembly-072-0023H/205183928

 

[pepi]

There is no "correct" solution. There are several 'good' ways to do it. *sigh*

If one adds an extension pipe to the bottom, you're also adding a sump to the bottom of your air tank. The water first fills up the pipe to the valve, which should be galvanized or brass/copper. This means if you open the drain often enough water will never actually accumulate on your steel tank.

Even if I don't drain my tank for a while, the water always comes out clear, never rusty, because it is sitting in a 1/2" brass ******, not rusting out the bottom of my tank.

If you don't use an extra ****** you don't get that benefit.

That ridiculous plumbing is well ridiculous, the OP was looking for a quick, down and dirty way to dump some water. The valve and lanyard is the way. You, get on the floor to open the ball valve, with that plumbing contraption ...

That is like running around the block to cross the street... OH yeah that's a good plan right there

So what's your thought on this drain, no sump, dumps every cycle at the beginning and end, is pneumatic controled........ big word that means air

 

[DieselPills]

That ridiculous plumbing is well ridiculous

Like I said, lots of ways to do it. Your opinion is both offensive and stupid.

The best solution is to add an extra sump to your tank that won't rust. Anybody other than pepi disagree with this statement?

A ball valve and a ****** is not a "plumbing contraption". It couldn't get more reliable and simple than that. It also directs the dirty water into an appropriate place, not all over the floor like Bondo's plan.