Compressor Drain plug issue...

[aggie91]

While setting up my new shop, I plan on mounting the compressor outside under a lean-to that will keep the rain off, but still provide good airflow for cooling. Last time I used the compressor before putting it in storage for my move, I attempted to drain it and it spit some water out before completely stopping up. I ended up striping the valve, but managed to get it shut first.

So I planned on replacing the drain with a ball valve that would be easier to reach without getting up under the tank. First order of business was to remove the old valve. Well that ended quickly as I broke part of it off. So, I got the bright idea to remove the 2" reducer bushing out of the bottom of the tank since it had a nice 1-1/8" hex on it. A breaker bar and cheater pipe would not budge it even after soaking with PB Blaster overnight.

So, after some more PB, I got out the impact and hit it a few times, no movement....So, I got out the torch and rose bud tip and applied some heat to the area around the bushing to get the sealer soft and hopefully get it to move. Well it was moving and then this happened:



That orange stuff in the middle of the bushing is rust that clogged up the valve and kept it from draining...I knocked it out to get a look at how much material was at the area I have to work with.


It is kinda thin and now I have no way of grabbing the plug. The hole is about 3/8"-1/2" in diameter. I could drill and tap it, but with the broken casting, I would prefer to remove the whole bushing and replace it. I plan to run a 90 then a short piece of pipe out from under the tank to a ball valve and eventually an automatic drain valve.

What would you guys do to remove the plug? I am at a loss, but have a few ideas, but all of them are going to require a bunch of time and effort...

Any help from you guys would be great...

 

[Burgerkong]

Easy. Use a sawsall or a hacksaw to perpendicularly saw the plug until you almost hit the threads on the tank bung. Repeat this several times around the plug and just knock it free.

EDIT: By perpendicularly, I mean threading the blade through the hole and sawing. You should be able to relieve all the tension on the plug.

 

[aggie91]

Thanks for the feedback. That is along the lines of one of my thoughts. I just need to get my hands on a saws all.

 

[redmondjp]

Thanks for the feedback. That is along the lines of one of my thoughts. I just need to get my hands on a saws all.

You don't even need that; just a close-quarters hacksaw blade holder and a blade will do it (or just a bare hacksaw blade with a shop rag wrapped around one end). Yes, it will take a bit longer, but it will work. You don't want to cut too far into the threads on the tank side!

 

[thecj3man]

Weld a large nut onto the bung and use a impact wrench to free it up. If you have a welder.

 

[aggie91]

I have a welder, but since the plug is cast iron, I am not real sure the welding of a nut will work real well since the impact wrench I used was what broke off the hex part of the plug. Plus, the welder is inside the shop and the compressor is outside where I cannot get the welder close enough to use it and moving the compressor is a large PITA...

Korbin came home last night with a new HF saws all and said "Happy Birthday" since my birthday is next Wednesday, he gave me an early gift. So, tonight when I get home, I will give it a shot at getting that plug out.

 

[gungatim]

if you are not sure about welding a nut on the fitting, you could try the bearing removal trick: drill that hole larger, then weld a bead around the inside circumference of the fitting to shrink it. will make bearing races literally drop right out, so it may work to loosen it up enough to get it outta there with an e-z out...