Compressor drain

[posaune]

I have a 33gallon upright Craftsman compressor with an annoying drain. The first time or two I used it, it worked ok. After a few months though, it became almost impossible to move. It is supposed to be done by hand, but it was even hard to move with pliers. When I finally got it to budge, it didn't drain.

I finally decided today that I *had* to drain it, so I took the screw all the way out. Now it works better but leaks constantly. Short of an auto system, what should I use to be able to drain it easily? I don't use it much, so the simpler (and cheaper), the better.

What is in there is reverse threaded if that matters.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I don't know how Craftsman drains are, but on my Campbell Hausfeld compressor I bought new in 1994, the drain was like a wingnut. I went through a few of those, they would become harder to move so I'd have to use a wrench then it would get all twisted up. And they'd rust. Ordered a few earlier this year from CH and they have a different design which seems to work much better.

You may need to come up with your own custom solution.

 

[crankshaftdan II]

I don't have a crapsman compressor, but on my old kellog 33 gallon vertical model I installed a male pipe reducer (3/8' to 1/2") and bought a ball valve at menards w/quarter turn handle (red) 1/2" male brass type, removed red handle and screwewd in w/pipe wrench with pipe dope sealer, re-attached handle so it did not interfere with the legs of tank. pumped it up, turned valve wide open and rust and scale and h2o comes out just fine! No t-handle treaded gismo to bend, break etc. Just make shure you have the necessary clearance to open and close handle assy (may have to add more re-ducers??) Hope this helps)

 

[evintho]

I've got this on my IR. Works great! The best part is, with the extension you don't have to reach under the tank and ***** around. The drain is right there at your feet!

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-PA3005/p430.html

 

[posaune]

I've got this on my IR. Works great! The best part is, with the extension you don't have to reach under the tank and ***** around. The drain is right there at your feet!

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-PA3005/p430.html

That looks like the answer I am looking for. Is the part that threads into the tank reverse threaded though? That would be my only problem...

 

[smcdonn]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6D911

For a direct replacement. They sell numerous sizes.

 

[Matt M PA]

I made up my own as well with a 1/4 turn valve, an elbow and a long pipe ******.

 

[evintho]

That looks like the answer I am looking for. Is the part that threads into the tank reverse threaded though? That would be my only problem...

Nope. You've got an issue there. However, there is an easy remedy. Go to a plumbing supply house (not Home Depot!) and ask for a very short left/right ****** and coupling. It's denoted by a red dot. The ****** is reversed threaded and the coupling has one side reverse threaded to attach to the ****** with the other end having a standard pipe thread. Then simply attach the extension pipe from the drain kit to the coupling. Problem solved!

 

[jsaw]

Big trucks with air brakes use a brass petcock to drain moisture out of the air tanks. They last longer than the cheap ones that come on air compressor tanks. You should be able to find one at a NAPA store, or a truck parts store.

 

[lametec]

My CH came with the wingnut type, and it failed in short order (wingnut came off). I picked up a replacement at Home Depot that has a knurled dealy instead of the wingnut. Works a charm and is a lot easier to open/close.

One thing to keep in mind is that these drains don't require you to torque them down to reallyfriggintight. Finger tight will do it, and makes it a lot easier to open.

 

[lametec]

That looks like the answer I am looking for. Is the part that threads into the tank reverse threaded though? That would be my only problem...

Are you sure the threads are reverse? It would make little sense.

 

[crankshaftdan II]

Most drains that are threaded should be right hand thread, unless they goofed and put a reverse thread instead! Should be easy to correct unless the threads are stripped! Maybe you will have to make a reverse thread/right hand thread adapter to compensate to attach the right hand threaded parts? Good luck, works well for cleaning out the rust/water/scale/dirt that normally gets stuck in the original orfice.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

My CH came with the wingnut type, and it failed in short order (wingnut came off). I picked up a replacement at Home Depot that has a knurled dealy instead of the wingnut. Works a charm and is a lot easier to open/close.

One thing to keep in mind is that these drains don't require you to torque them down to reallyfriggintight. Finger tight will do it, and makes it a lot easier to open.

Yep, that wingnut design made those destined to fail.

The replacements I ordered from CH are similar to what you posted here.

 

[posaune]

Are you sure the threads are reverse? It would make little sense.

Well, to screw it into the compressor (which opens it), it is counter-clockwise. Turning it clockwise closes the drain and then takes the screw completely out.

Nope. You've got an issue there. However, there is an easy remedy. Go to a plumbing supply house (not Home Depot!) and ask for a very short left/right ****** and coupling. It's denoted by a red dot. The ****** is reversed threaded and the coupling has one side reverse threaded to attach to the ****** with the other end having a standard pipe thread. Then simply attach the extension pipe from the drain kit to the coupling. Problem solved!

It looks like this is what I need to do. I had no idea something like that existed- thanks!

 

[Art From De Leon]

I first thought you had a fitting like a radiator/block drain, but now I am not sure.

 

[lametec]

The drain is usually a two piece unit (with the exception of really cheap compressors). The part with the wingnut on it (the screw) and a fitting with threads on the inside (for the screw to go in) and on the outside (for screwing into the compressor). You change both these pieces when you change the drain.

See if your compressor model number is listed on this page: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/drain-valve-p-80275.html

 

[posaune]

The drain is usually a two piece unit (with the exception of really cheap compressors). The part with the wingnut on it (the screw) and a fitting with threads on the inside (for the screw to go in) and on the outside (for screwing into the compressor). You change both these pieces when you change the drain.

See if your compressor model number is listed on this page: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/drain-valve-p-80275.html

OH...

Maybe it *is* like that (except that mine is a thumbscrew without the wings). If it is, the other part is painted red like the red of the compressor.

I'll see if I can get pics sometime today.

 

[kbs2244]

I am pretty sure the one you have works like a radiator drain in that you screw it to the left to open it.
But the hole in the tank will have normal NPT threads on it.
Take the whole valve out of the tank and replace it with a brass ball valve.
The lever handled ones are easier to use.
If it is close to the floor maybe a 45 or 90 elbow between the tank and valve to aim it better?
A hose ****** and a short peice of hose will let you aim the junk into something.

 

[ATTappman]

I have the same compressor, only with a horizontal tank. Here's what I made for mine, out of a ******, an elbow, and a ball valve. The drain valve that screws into the tank is not reverse threaded.

 

[mikeweb]

I made up my own as well with a 1/4 turn valve, an elbow and a long pipe ******.

I did the same thing but using a 1/4 ball valve

 

[buening]

I plan on going the ball-valve route with mine for manual operation but it also has an automatic drain off a Tee (factory from IMC).

Does everyone just drain their **** out onto their concrete floor? My garage does not have a floor drain that I can run a tube to and the only other solution I can think of is to poke a hole through the stemwall and run a hose outside. Any kind of catch tray just blows **** everywhere due to the PSI. Curious if anyone has an genius idea other than staining their concrete

 

[Matt M PA]

oops...I should have written "ball valve". That's what I used.

And..since I'm retentive about the garage...I put a plastic sandwich bag over the fitting...then let some moisture out and trap it in the bag. (then again...I also put heavy clear plastic under old cars when I take the suspensions part...much easier to clean up later.

 

[posaune]

Well, I just went out and looked closer. I guess I should have done that first (but it is a pain to see under it where it is). Indeed I only took one part of the drain out. It should be simple to replace it with a real valve as suggested.

Thanks guys!