Compressor flywheel/pulley install

[plaidside]

I gave my son my old Ingersol-Rand air compressor that he is rebuilding.
He got the flywheel/pulley off using a three jaw pulley but he can only get it on about 1/2 way. The first pick is after it is installed and the second pic is before removal.
He tried heating it and there is no threaded hole in the shaft.
Any idea on how to spread the split in the flywheel or a way to get it on further?
Thanks,
Joe

 

[brollona]

Hammer some wedge into split, lubricate shaft with something like WD40, use puller and hammer wheel from sides while puling it. I would try like that.

 

[The Cobbler]

the slightest build up of crud/rust etc ca cause grief . as mentioned, wedge the flywheel open and a puller if needed . you could also try to sand the OD of the shaft that sticks out a bit . It looks like it's all been hammered on once before .

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Cold chisel or heavy screwdriver to spread the split. I'd pull the flywheel again and polish the shaft and maybe run an emery cloth through the wheel bore and add some anti-seize before trying to put it on again though. Don't beat on it too much or you will brinell the bearings.

 

[MBfreak]

If the clamp screw hole has one side with thread. ( If not, thread it)
Insert a steel wedge in the split and a screw in the thread. Tighten up snug.
Heat the entire assembly to 200 Centigrade ( kitchen oven works great) and tighten the screw some more.
Slip over shaft, remove screw and wedge. Let cool.
B4 any of this, polish shaft and hole, remove mushrooming with a file and make sure the keyway and key are free from obstructions. Some silicon oil rubbed on.

No BFH, please. No 3 ft long spanners. Cast iron is easy to break in expasnsion mode.

Ola

 

[matt_i]

Hmm, I don't see any of the paint burned off...that to me is probably not enough heat. Ideally the entire thing could be pulled back off using the puller, put in an oven at 300F for an hour, then go back at it.

The wedges (go from both sides) should be used carefully, the cast fan-sheave is already brittle enough and I'm guessing difficult to find a replacement.

I would resist all temptations to oil the interface or change any dimensions. I have seen it done a dozen times where an installer made their job easy by taking emery cloth to the shaft OD.... but the assembly failed long before it should have due to loose or lubricated fits. There's plenty of oscillation due to the constant input and reciprocating output.

Instead, find burrs with a file -- is excellent, figure out if the key and keyway are exactly aligned. That part won't self-pilot if they are clocked wrong.