To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Compressor... gimme your opinion....

eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
Okay, we all know that I do not have 220vac in my garage, nor do I hope to get it anytime soon. So, I make the best with what I have. That being said, I got a gift card to Sears the other day and came across this:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ir+Compressors+&+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

I like the fact that it has 6.8 SCFM at 90 psi, versus most other similar styles that only make it to about 5.5.

I have a 33 gal Husky oil-less right now (also 150 psi - it was a gift) and I am looking to get something a little more substantial, yet portable.

What do you think?


Ed
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ptschram

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
2,573
Location
Churubusco, IN
I ran one very similar to that for darned near 20 years before it finally gave up after daily use for four years, ten years of storage and another five years of daily use.

The weak link (IMO) in Sears compressors is the motor, and when they do fail, you learn they are a proprietary mounting design. A replacement motor costs almost as much as a new compressor and a motor and mount assembly cost almost as much, not to mention that by the time the motor wears out, the pump is probably on its last legs as well.
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
Given the electrical limitation situation, you are prolly looking at about the best you can get. As long as you stay away from direct drive, and shop by the SCFM spec (SCFM The last word) although spec information can sometimes be incorrect and worked the way promotion people want.:shocking:
 

Jokeman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
394
Location
Boston
Go for the Husky pro Stand up that 26 gallon. Its cheaper and has an Iron head.
 

brianpgriset

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2006
Messages
1,038
Location
Beaumont, TX
Looks like it performs pretty for for 120VAC but be prepared to dedicate around 20-25 amps to it. Since its only 20 gal. I would also look into getting another resivoir for it to get some more capacity.
 

kartracer55

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
5,317
Ed, If I were you I would email eaton and see what they can do about building you a 110 compressor. I dont think I still have the email (Searching for it as I type this) but as I recall they mentioned something about possibly being able to build a high output 110 compressor. If I find it I will post it up, but I would email and just ask what they can do for ya

Jim
 
OP
E

eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
kartracer55 said:
Ed, If I were you I would email eaton and see what they can do about building you a 110 compressor. I dont think I still have the email (Searching for it as I type this) but as I recall they mentioned something about possibly being able to build a high output 110 compressor. If I find it I will post it up, but I would email and just ask what they can do for ya

Jim
That would work - except I don't have a gift card for eaton compressor. The only reason I am even considering one is because I have teh means to get one from one of the "box" stores. But you're right.... if I had the $$$$ I would definitely be going with an Eaton.


Come to think of, maybe I will email them 'cause now I'm curious... :beer:
 

kartracer55

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
5,317
Something tells me you could EASILY find something at sears to spend that girft card on. hahaha
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
brianpgriset..... its a 25 gallon, not 20.

One thing I note is its a dual voltage motor, 120/240, and draws 15 amps. They also say its a 2 hp (which is running or ACTUAL hp according to them) I'm thinking a 2 hp should draw more amps than this.

My early 1970's Craftsman has a 12 gal tank, a one hp Doeer dual voltage motor, and an iron two cyl pump. it produces 6.4 at 40 psi, and 5.4 at 90 psi and 100 psi max. It draws 17.8 amps on 120V and half that on 240V.

So, even though they say its a running 2 hp, I still don't believe it.

I had a Craftsman 240V only that they claimed was 4 hp. I really don't know what it was and don't recall the specs, but it had an aluminum/iron sleeved pump like this one. I was reasonably happy with it.

Given the fact you have a gift card to use and this is a decent compressor, I think you will be happy with it. Even if you get a big shop and a stationary compressor, a good 120V compressor you can roll into the back of the pickup and go with it is handy to have. Thats why I keep mine, been handy for putting head charge on the 1500 gallon well tanks and other odd, away from the shop jobs.

Charles
 
OP
E

eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
kartracer55 said:
Something tells me you could EASILY find something at sears to spend that girft card on. hahaha
Ohh... you would be right!!!!!!!!!! But, my oil less is starting to make funky noises, and I brought this whole topic up as sort of a preemptive stike.

BTW... I took a look at the Cman pro and the Husky pro, and my gut tells me that the Cman is a better unit. It is an aluminum pump with iron sleeves (like a Briggs I/C motor), but that pump looked a lot more substantial in person that the Husky. The Cman motor is a GE industrial...

But, I'm just kinda fishin' for experiences and opinions here. And Charles is right about being able to have a decent portabble compressor.
 

brianpgriset

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2006
Messages
1,038
Location
Beaumont, TX
Charles (in GA) said:
brianpgriset..... its a 25 gallon, not 20.

One thing I note is its a dual voltage motor, 120/240, and draws 15 amps. They also say its a 2 hp (which is running or ACTUAL hp according to them) I'm thinking a 2 hp should draw more amps than this.

My early 1970's Craftsman has a 12 gal tank, a one hp Doeer dual voltage motor, and an iron two cyl pump. it produces 6.4 at 40 psi, and 5.4 at 90 psi and 100 psi max. It draws 17.8 amps on 120V and half that on 240V.

So, even though they say its a running 2 hp, I still don't believe it.

I had a Craftsman 240V only that they claimed was 4 hp. I really don't know what it was and don't recall the specs, but it had an aluminum/iron sleeved pump like this one. I was reasonably happy with it.

Given the fact you have a gift card to use and this is a decent compressor, I think you will be happy with it. Even if you get a big shop and a stationary compressor, a good 120V compressor you can roll into the back of the pickup and go with it is handy to have. Thats why I keep mine, been handy for putting head charge on the 1500 gallon well tanks and other odd, away from the shop jobs.

Charles


I have a 3HP compressor with a 120/240 motor. It says it draws 24 amps at 110VAC so for a real 2HP I think you're right, it should draw more than 15 amps. But the CFM ratings are pretty good
 
OP
E

eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
Just an update... a relative sent me more sears gift cards, so I went and picked up that compressor today. It's much quiter than the Husky oilless I have. It also appears to be made by Devilbiss (sp?) and not Campbell Hausfeld, which to me is a plus. All of the lines are copper or aluminum (not taht plastci ****) and the whole machine just seems to be a higher quality unit than the CH-sourced compressors that I have seen. Even the pressure gauges seem to be nicer than the cheesey ones that CH uses.

I filled it up with oil, ran it open to break it in - chnaged the oil and we're good to go. The only thing that I don't like so far is that the compressor shuts off anywhere between 140 and 150 psi... never the same place twice. But the manual said that the shut off point was "approximate" anyway, so I guess it's no big deal.
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
eschoendorff said:
The only thing that I don't like so far is that the compressor shuts off anywhere between 140 and 150 psi... never the same place twice. But the manual said that the shut off point was "approximate" anyway, so I guess it's no big deal.

The pressure switch and the gauge are still new. These things seem to need time to wear in. The pressure switch is especially that way. After a while you will notice that it will become more consistent in the on and off pressures as the metal parts take a set and wear in a little.

Charles
 

Jokeman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
394
Location
Boston
I have one of those craftsman pro compressors. Its getting replaced at x-mas time. Motor died and I cant find a 3hp that will run on 110. The 2hp that I bought doesnt have the sack to turn it over. I should just run 220 to my garage but its too much work cause the panel is on the other end of the house. If I had enough amounts of cash Id pony up for the Snappy compressor that is 10 scfm at 100psi. I tried Eaton but they dont make any 110 models. Im stuck between the Husky and Craftsman. I might pony up and get a dayton or IR. Im kinda stuck on what to do. A buddy of mine has an OLD husky that runs off 110 and its been through hell and back and is still kicking. Im not really sure what to do :headscrat
 
OP
E

eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
Jokeman said:
I have one of those craftsman pro compressors. Its getting replaced at x-mas time. Motor died and I cant find a 3hp that will run on 110. The 2hp that I bought doesnt have the sack to turn it over. I should just run 220 to my garage but its too much work cause the panel is on the other end of the house. If I had enough amounts of cash Id pony up for the Snappy compressor that is 10 scfm at 100psi. I tried Eaton but they dont make any 110 models. Im stuck between the Husky and Craftsman. I might pony up and get a dayton or IR. Im kinda stuck on what to do. A buddy of mine has an OLD husky that runs off 110 and its been through hell and back and is still kicking. Im not really sure what to do :headscrat

How old is yours? Now I'm glad I gotthe two-year extended warranty!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

bmwpower

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
Charles (in GA) said:
Thats OK, just report back in a couple of months about how badly you hate it due to the noise.

Charles

What?? I can't hear you. My compressor is pumping up...

I have one just like that. I think I've lost 2-4 dB in hearing from it.
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
No Joke....... If you work around those oilless compressors, you need to wear ear plugs........... you can easily damage your hearing. They are loud and the noise is intense.

Charles
 

RavinJetta

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Messages
19
Yeah my father use to have a big 60 gallon oilless and it was definitely loud. He now has a 60 gallon oiled and it is much much quieter. Luckily I will not be using it daily and I doubt it will be running full cycle much. For the price it was hard to say no but I will test it out and see how bad it is in my garage. If it isn't bearable it is going back.
 

ron in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Messages
1,071
Location
Charleston, SC
eschoendorff said:
but there's no way that that compressor is puching 18cfm on 120v.

I would tend to agree with you. But then on the other hand that motor looks like a light duty model, the kind that turns at around 3450 rpm, so maybe that unit will produce that much cfm; it just will not be able to due it for very long.

When I was shopping for a compressor I noticed some manufactures would use the same compressor pump for several different models. They would put increasingly larger motors on the differents models to turn the compressor pump at a higher rpm to make more cfm. Ideally you want the compressor pump to turn as slowly as possible to help with durabilty. It's nice if the motor turns slower too for the same reason.

I believe some, if not all of the Eaton compressors have compressor pumps that are made in China. I think the motor are not made in America either, they may be from China too. Not sure of their record for durablity.
 

Junkman

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,615
Location
Northeastern CT
I've had American built compressors die on me prior to buying the Quincy. Any compressor that is splash lubricated has a limited life expectancy in my opinion. It might last your 10 years, but some of the less expensive imports might not even last 2 years. If you are young, and can afford a pressure lubricated commercial compressor, go for it. In 1959, I spent a lot and purchased a Kellogg that lasted me about 10 years of continual use. It was a good unit, but not as good as the commercial units that are being manufactured today. You have to look at more than the output, but how it is manufactured. It isn't how much the compressor will put out the specified amount, but for how long. If you spend $500 and get 3 or 4 years out of it and a comparable unit then will cost $700, you are wasting money. If you spend $1500, and get a top notch unit that will last you for 10 / 15/ 20 years, you are way ahead. There are also a lot of good used units on the market today. You will have to seek out a company that specializes in commercial compressors, but they are out there. Twelve years ago I got the Quincy for about $1500, and the list price at the time was about $2500. I shopped around till I found a good price, but I already knew what I wanted in a compressor. Also, keep your eye on eBay. I do see a lot of them listed there, and many are 3 phase units that go cheap. Change the motor to single phase and you will never regret the purchase. Always buy the best that you can afford, or regret it later in life.
 

bmwpower

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
Junkman said:
...Also, keep your eye on eBay. I do see a lot of them listed there, and many are 3 phase units that go cheap. Change the motor to single phase and you will never regret the purchase...

I thought about that, but then I realized I'm going to need a huge single phase motor to run a compressor that once had a 3 phase motor on it. The other question is, how big do you need when switching to a single phase compressor? Is there a conversion of sorts?
 

Junkman

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,615
Location
Northeastern CT
If it is a 3 phase 5 HP motor, then you replace it with a 5 HP single phase motor. The compressor is connected to the motor by belts, so the only consideration is the shaft size of the motor. You want that to be the same, so you don't have to start to look for parts. I have seen a lot of them on eBay that are just like mine, except for being 3 phase. For about $300 for the motor, it can be converted. I had also seen one that had dual compressor heads with dual motors, that sold for $500! If it weren't so far away, I would have bought it myself, even though I would never need the amount of air that the unit could put out.
 

bmwpower

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
Junkman said:
If it is a 3 phase 5 HP motor, then you replace it with a 5 HP single phase motor. The compressor is connected to the motor by belts, so the only consideration is the shaft size of the motor. You want that to be the same, so you don't have to start to look for parts. I have seen a lot of them on eBay that are just like mine, except for being 3 phase. For about $300 for the motor, it can be converted. I had also seen one that had dual compressor heads with dual motors, that sold for $500! If it weren't so far away, I would have bought it myself, even though I would never need the amount of air that the unit could put out.

Yea I guess 5 HP is 5 HP...lol.
I think you'd have to stick with 7.5 HP and below though, as I don't think I've seen 10 HP single phase motors for cheap, if at all.

What about motor speed (RPM)? And frame mount type?
 
Last edited:

Junkman

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,615
Location
Northeastern CT
bmwpower said:
Yea I guess 5 HP is 5 HP...lol.
I think you'd have to stick with 7.5 HP and below though, as I don't think I've seen 10 HP single phase motors for cheap, if at all.

What about motor speed (RPM)? And frame mount type?

My Quincy turns at 1725 RPM. The less expensive compressors have a faster speed to make up for there lack of ability to produce more air at the slower speeds. I would assume that you could get any frame size in both single and three phase. I am not certain of this, but I believe that some motor shops can rewire 3 phase motors to run on single phase. Then, there are also phase converters that convert single phase to three phase. I have never used one, so I can't tell you how they work, but I know a local woodworker that has a shop full of 3 phase equipment that he uses. His workshop is fed by a 60 amp single phase service, and he has a motor that creates the 3 phase current for operating his other equipment. I guess that is what you call Yankee ingenuety... :bounce:
 

z28toz06

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2005
Messages
1,012
Location
Connecticut
bmwpower said:
Yea I guess 5 HP is 5 HP...lol.
I think you'd have to stick with 7.5 HP and below though, as I don't think I've seen 10 HP single phase motors for cheap, if at all.

What about motor speed (RPM)? And frame mount type?
5 Horse power is not 5 horse power. MAny companies play games with words and numbers. Do yourselves a favor and just read the info on this sight it is an eye opener, at least it was for me. This is from Eatons website about one of their other units. I like when a company educates you about the product not just their products. . Havent found mention yet of chinese products or if they are american made. I emailed the company so we can end the hearsay and rumors.

This pump has a displacement of 25 CFM and a free air of 19.5 CFM @ 100 PSI. Pump weighs 100 lbs. 650 RPM's - HALF the speed of our competitors. This unit has a high CFM per every revolution that it turns. To compare it to our competition, you will take the CFM of their pump (FREE AIR or SCFM-NOT Displacement) and divide the RPM into the CFM. This will tell you the CFM per every revolution that the pump turns. This unit has 0.03 for every revolution that it turns. This is twice the CFM per revolution of most of our competition. Our competition can match our CFM, but running double or triple the speed of this pump meaning they have a much smaller compressor pump - VERY loud operation and tons of water because of the higher heat of the pump from the high speed. LOW RPM is better!!--SUPER QUIET! We now have a way to catch these compressor companies lying about their CFM Free Air. We have a CFM Flow Meter - this checks your CFM at pressure. For example, we put this flow meter on this unit-it is cone-shaped internally. The higher the cone-shaped weight inside the meter, the more air it takes to hold it there. We opened the ball valve so that the unit maintained 100 PSI. We checked the flow meter and it was on 19.5 CFM Free Air. We put it on our units, but we also give the free air. DON'T BE TRICKED BY CFM DISPLACEMENT!! CFM displacement is bore times stroke times RPM @ zero pressure. As you go up in pressure, your pump loses efficiency. Always base your CFM on FREE AIR at pressure - not displacement. Compressors that are claiming more air than ours - the way to check them if they are being truthful is get their pump up time IN WRITING, then compare it to our CFM of this unit's pump up time, and you will see that most of them will not give you this in writing because it is not true! We were very curious, so we tested a 3450 RPM, 21 amps, so-called 5 HP motor like our competition's unit. We put it on and ran the pump at 1050 RPM and within 7 minutes, smoke was coming out from the back of the motor. Our BIG 5 HP, 1750 RPM motor runs it like NOTHING!! When buying a compressor, do not buy 3450 RPM motor if the unit has a free air of 16 or more. In cold weather start up, you will have problems in starting your pump because of low starting torque. The reason this unit has a prewired magnetic starter is because a pressure switch will not take the amperage of this motor. When you see units with no magnetic starter, or they are claiming "No Magnetic Starter Required", WATCH OUT because about the time the warranty runs out, you will be burning up pressure switches. They will not take the amp draw of a true 5 HP motor, 24.5 amps. This tells you not to buy HP, because the HP's you are getting are very untrue. This unit now includes continuous run. This option is nice when you are running a pressure pot sand blaster or running under heavy demands in your shop over 40% duty cycle. When a unit cycles frequently or when the unit is turning on and off multiple times in an hour, it is hard on your electric bill and your magnetic starter and your centrifugal switch in the back of a single phase motor. Every time the unit starts, the magnetic starter is arching. The continous run will eliminate a lot of the arching from multiple starts and stops. The continuous run is used only when the unit is in a 40% or more work load. This allows the intake valves to be pressed open by an air cylinder built into the cylinder heads. It allows air into the intake valve on the down stroke of the piston, but when the cylinder is on the up stroke, the valve is held open so the air that was just drawn into the intake valve is now blowed back out the intake valve . This helps to cool the pump internally by drawing cool air into the cylinder and absorbing the heat and blowing it back out at hot air. THIS PUMP DOES NOT HAVE REED VALVES - IT NOW HAS THE BEST VALVE IN THE COMPRESSOR INDUSTRY - DISK VALVES! Easy to maintenance - disk valves can be maintenance without touching the head gasket. They are sealed by an O-ring on top of the cylinder head with 4 bolts holding each valve in place. THIS PUMP HAS ALL STEEL CONNECTING RODS WITH REPLACEABLE INSERTS ON THE CRANK TO ROD JOURNAL AND ON THE WRIST PIN JOURNAL - not aluminum throw-away. This pump has 360 degree cooling around each cylinder which makes the pump run much cooler during operation along with low RPM. It takes approximately 5 amps per horsepower to make a horsepower--running horsepower, NOT starting horsepower. To be a true 5 HP motor, it takes at least 23 amps or it is not a 5 hp motor. They are giving you "Starting" HP which means nothing. It is not what you are actually getting. This motor is all copper windings with cast iron ends. This unit is wired in conduit and meets all NEMA Wiring Codes. This pump is dual belt drive. Anything over 16 CFM free air needs to be 2-belt drive or you will be going through belts all the time. This unit also has a cast iron motor drive pulley on the motor. The reason you see one belt drive on these bigger pumps is because companies are trying to cut costs and YOU are getting LESS for your money! This unit has an 80-gallon ASME Code Air Receiver-maximum pressure of 200 PSI @ 450 degrees. Do not buy tanks that are not ASME code because this is very unsafe. These tanks are inspected and approved by ASME. Unit features:


cast-iron pump-not sleeve cylinders-solid cast iron
large oil reservoir and an oil sight glass
2 large automotive-type air filters
true 5 HP motor-25 amp, 220 Volt, Single Phase
80-gallon ASME Code approved air receiver
2 V A-Belt drive-NOT 1 belt drive
all steel 13-gauge, HEAVY, HEAVY duty belt guard-built very durable (NOT plastic or wire birdcage-type guard)
quality pressure switch, pop-off safety valves, and ball valves
a ball valve drain plumped out the front of air receiver for easy draining condensation from air receiver-NOT cheap petcock-type drain
3/4" ball valve air outlet
3-year parts & labor warranty (NOT pro-rated) on unit on compressor pump & 2-year warranty on rest of unit
Unit weighs approximately 690 lbs (shipping weight). There are companies claiming all cast iron, but in reality they have a sleeve surrounded by aluminum. The way to tell if they are cast iron is to take a magnet with you when shopping. If the magnet does not stick to the compressor--IT IS NOT cast iron...it's aluminum. This unit comes complete with Owner's/Operator's manual and Parts manual. Bid on this unit and if you come to the factory to pick up your unit and you are not FULLY satisfied, you will not be obligated to take the unit with you and we will not send a negative rating (you will only receive a negative rating if you do not show up at all.) We are that confident that you will be 100% satisfied!! Please email us with city, state, and zip for a freight quote. We give some of the most competitive shipping rates---but we do not "bump up" the unit cost and then claim "free shipping"! Residential delivery is an additional $15.00 and liftgate service is an additional $15.00. You can also pick the unit up here at our factory to save on freight-(Ohio Sales Tax of 7.5% would then apply unless you have a tax id number) We accept Visa, MasterCard, Discover, money orders, cashier's checks, certified checks, or business and personal checks. However, if sending business or personal check, unit will ship 10 days after receipt of check. **PLEASE NOTE: When sending in payment for compressor, please include the following information with payment: Name, Business Name (if applicable), ship-to address, itemized list of what you have paid for (description of unit with amount, freight and additional services (if applicable). This helps our accounting department and ensures the correct unit is shipped since many are being shipped daily. If you have any questions, feel free to email us or call Matt Cain, Owner-Eaton Compressor at 937-456-1752. We offer the best factory service & warranty in the industry and have all parts in stock if you would have a problem - ready for next-day air shipment. Thanks for taking the time to
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom