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Compressor Help

schmee

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Sep 19, 2012
Messages
13
Hey all,
After much review and help from this site, I just purchase the Quincy 5-HP 60-Gallon Two-Stage Compressor. I think it will be good for my home garage and has enough CFM's for mechanics and some "sanding".

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-2V41C60VC-Air-Compressor/p855.html


Question:
I am wanting to setup a regulator/filter setup and unsure what I need to do so. Pretty sure I don't want a lubricator, as I have read on here to do it at the tool if needed. I've been looking at a regulator/filter combos. The compressor states it will do 175psi. However, most of the reg/filter combo gauges do not go that high? Am I missing something??

Thanks,
Josh
 
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matt_i

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There are 200psi regulators out there, but keep in mind the input will be 175psi if you choose to run it that high. The output line pressure is the one you regulate to 100 or so.

I run my pressure switch on the compressor at 125psi to save money despite its verified capability to run up to 175psig. What I experience is this: nearing max line pressure the motor HP required is approaching maximum, and thus the current drawn is near max FLA (full load amps). I don't have the need to store extra air, it can just run another cycle if it gets low (and then it might not run for another week). Less heat, less amperage, are all directionally correct for longer compressor life.
 

manwithtools

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Hey all,
After much review and help from this site, I just purchase the Quincy 5-HP 60-Gallon Two-Stage Compressor. I think it will be good for my home garage and has enough CFM's for mechanics and some "sanding".

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-2V41C60VC-Air-Compressor/p855.html


Question:
I am wanting to setup a regulator/filter setup and unsure what I need to do so. Pretty sure I don't want a lubricator, as I have read on here to do it at the tool if needed. I've been looking at a regulator/filter combos. The compressor states it will do 175psi. However, most of the reg/filter combo gauges do not go that high? Am I missing something??

Thanks,
Josh

I purchased the same one on Sunday from the same vendor, wonder who will get theirs first?

The regulator ratings you are seeing are typically output ratings - which are fine as most air tools do not require over 90 PSI. Max inlet pressure on a couple of reputable ones I checked were 250 PSI (17 bar). Be sure to get a filter regulator without lubricator and get one that flows at least as many CFM as the compressor. I'd would personally chose a 1/2" model. I also like the idea of adjusting the pressure switch on the compressor to the lower setting as mentioned in another post.
 

JunkYardDawg

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Maine
So what "system pressure" is good to start with? I too have just purchased a nice 60-gallon compressor and the harbor fright refrigerated air dryer, and I was wondering how to regulate the system pressure to 120 PSI? I have been using the cheesy Craftsman oiless compressor, and directly hooked up to it. I never really had the opportunity to build myself a shop air system, and that'll be one of the first things I do once I get my arm out of this doggoned cast. So what is a reasonable system pressure for "shop air?"
 
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gungatim

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system pressure for "shop air" is dependent on the tool rating. a lot of tools are in the 90-100psi range for home use. I keep mine at around 95-ish. a paint gun takes a lot less pressure than a framing nailer, so it really depends on what tools you plan to use.
 

JunkYardDawg

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system pressure for "shop air" is dependent on the tool rating. a lot of tools are in the 90-100psi range for home use. I keep mine at around 95-ish. a paint gun takes a lot less pressure than a framing nailer, so it really depends on what tools you plan to use.

That's and easy answer: Air tools, sandblast cabinet, and paint guns. Do you think system pressure would be workable being set at 110 psi?
 

Cyberbear

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Don't use a regulator/oiler unit because you don't want oil in your spray gun air supply, and do not want to contaminate the air hose either. These things are best reserved for a commercial production environment. Also, if you have not already done so, install an automatic tank drain, you'll be happy you did.
 

Kaizen

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That's and easy answer: Air tools, sandblast cabinet, and paint guns. Do you think system pressure would be workable being set at 110 psi?

more then enough. the cfm is what you should be looking at. there's maybe a few cfm's difference between 90 and 140. It should power all you air tools but the question is can the compressor keep up with a da sander or comparable air hog tools. my 11.5 cfm compressor can't keep up with much so I have a lot of beer on hand for waiting. look at all your equipment for the psi and/or cfm requirements. 90 is more then adequate
 

JunkYardDawg

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schmee

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I purchased the same one on Sunday from the same vendor, wonder who will get theirs first?

Ha.. Mines coming to TX so we shall see.. :D

Thanks all for the advise and education. I too am upgrading from a Craftsman Oil less.

So basically, I can go with whatever filter combo I want so long as it does the CFM that mine will do? (15.2 at 175psi)
 

nadogail

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May you enjoy your new compressors in good health.

For a given line pressure the shop air system piping can be considered as a part of the reservoir.

At a former employer the loop around the plant was increased to 3" pipe, 600 feet long. Several, 4, compressors fed the loop and the various machines drew from it.

As an energy conservation measure the system pressure was reduced from 125 to 90 PSIG.

The only modification required to be made to the plant equipment was to replace the cylinders in a hoist with ones of larger diameter to lift the same load with reduced pressure.

Lubricators were at the using equipment, so that the system could deliver Clean Dry Air where needed.

This was a world apart from the little compressor in my garage.
 

manwithtools

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Ha.. Mines coming to TX so we shall see.. :D

Thanks all for the advise and education. I too am upgrading from a Craftsman Oil less.

So basically, I can go with whatever filter combo I want so long as it does the CFM that mine will do? (15.2 at 175psi)

Just got an email - mine's being delivered today :bounce:

And yes on the filter and CFM question. Most 1/2" NPT inlet and outlet in a good brand will meet that requirement. SMC, Parker, Norgen, Numatics are good brands. Look on eBay or Amazon for best prices.
 
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sberry

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Don't start fugging with the pressure switch, leave it like they have it set at the factory. It will never work better than it does now.
 
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schmee

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Just got an email - mine's being delivered today :bounce:

And yes on the filter and CFM question. Most 1/2" NPT inlet and outlet in a good brand will meet that requirement. SMC, Parker, Norgen, Numatics are good brands. Look on eBay or Amazon for best prices.

Ah you ****... :D

Mine is shipped and will be here soon..:rocker:
 

matt_i

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Don't start fugging with the pressure switch, leave it like they have it set at the factory. It will never work better than it does now.

Its a nut on a threaded shaft that holds down a spring...pretty simple to work on...
 

sberry

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The had engineers who are specialists design, test and set this switch to work the best with the type of system it is. The along comes Johnny home owner and says,,, you know what, Im a smart guy which may be true so I will start fooling with it to make it better and save money in the same pull and it starts a chain reaction.
Now since we compromised the benifit of pumping 2 stage I will start on te worry about pipe size and a gnats azz loss thru some connectors I am going to try to find on sale and the 25 cents in I tried to save in power over a year is long gone and the machine doesn't work right and may in fact drive the bill up due to shortening the cycle and trying to keep up with slow air.
Even Home Depot has filters for 2 stage.
 

sberry

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Its a nut on a threaded shaft that holds down a spring...pretty simple to work on...
There is a difference between working on it and setting it correctly. Lots of broke **** is easy to work on.
I have been at this a while, I am not real smart or a natural mechanic. I am getting a bit better about the mechanic part but the subjects I write about are areas I have fairly extensive experience and often see the same mistakes repeated down the same line of thought, have made most of them myself.
I also know when experts or others bring good ideas on their own that don't translate well to small garages. I try to view myself as a value added salesman in that despite my own experience , expertise or personal preference to get the right machine and tools for the customer.
How I did something isn't always the right way, the last guy may not have put it together right either and a lot of long lingering issues with equipment are caused right out of the gate or at first service or repair. Plant maintenance people are notorious for this.
 

larry_g

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The had engineers who are specialists design, test and set this switch to work the best with the type of system it is. The along comes Johnny home owner and says,,, you know what, Im a smart guy which may be true so I will start fooling with it to make it better and save money in the same pull and it starts a chain reaction.
Now since we compromised the benifit of pumping 2 stage I will start on te worry about pipe size and a gnats azz loss thru some connectors I am going to try to find on sale and the 25 cents in I tried to save in power over a year is long gone and the machine doesn't work right and may in fact drive the bill up due to shortening the cycle and trying to keep up with slow air.
Even Home Depot has filters for 2 stage.

Do you run your tractors at full throttle all the time? Or do you find there are times when they will do the job just fine at less than full throttle and do so with better fuel economy? I know I run equipment less than full throttle at times. Even my tractor has a gear box on the PTO that allows 540 PTO speed at either 2100 or 1500 motor rpm, depending on the power required by the load.

lg
no neat sig line
 

sberry

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Yes but your air comp does not have operator controls on it. It has a constant regulated load. It is not your tractor. The fact that these are 2 different machines is even lost here. This is exactly my point.
It has been designed with basically millions of man hours, thousands of engineers, thousands of units set to an industry standard till you come along and basically try to convince me they are stupid and havnt considered efficiency along the way.
The user has fussed and looked at every page , studied and researched for the best unit,,, its shipped to his home, his first real comp, uncrates it, before he even has it plugged in finds a thread with basically a few get together and guess that the engineers don't know wtf till today and ewe should change one of the most basic settings on the machine.
 
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sberry

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The operator changes the throttle but doesn't get out wrenches and Rio with the fuel pressure. The reason to buy this was to deliver constant air to a regulator. If one sets this at 110 it's turniing off and pressure is falling below thresholds at the tool the second the trigger is pulled..
To deliver 90 at the tool thru 50 ft of 3/8 for a 1/2 gun takes about 130 in, just about kick on for 2 stage.
 

matt_i

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To deliver 90 at the tool thru 50 ft of 3/8 for a 1/2 gun takes about 130 in, just about kick on for 2 stage.

I'm sure you know this but the way its written could be misconstrued...the 2nd stage doesn't "kick on" like the secondary jets in an old carb....its a 2 cylinder arrangement where *all* the air, no matter what tank pressure, runs thru both cylinders in series. There's a large bore to capture a volume of air, where its initially compressed, then sent to the second smaller diameter cylinder, where its compressed to a higher pressure, hence the 2 stage.

The issues of adjusting the pressure switch are real. One can go out to their car or truck, and put your right foot flat on the floor, and not stop (except for fuel :D) for 400-500 hours before the engine is worn slap out with a big degredation in compression. But few of us drive it like that, it makes sense to only extract 50hp from your 300hp V8 most of the time. I need more than 10 weeks from my vehicle's engine...and...with some care and repair, I can make it last 10-20 years.

Compressor manufacturers have different life ratings for their pump. I saw 15,000 hrs somewhere on a lower grade model, Quincy advertises 50,000 pump hours, about a year of 24x7x365 operation. Of course those are validated at max ambient, max pressure, etc. Worst case condition. But, like my vehicle engine, also a piston-cylinder arrangement, I feel like I can get more pump life if I don't need to exercise the full horsepower every tank cycle.
 

sberry

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Its not your truck. This should be obvious,,, maybe not?
I we refering to the kick on setting on a 2 stage.
I got to wonder though, where did you learn this? How long is your experience with compressed air?
 
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nadogail

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An old man told me, and I have come to agree with him and his crowd, "If it works, Don't fix it".

Too much has been lost because someone decided to "Fix" what was not broken.
 
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