Compressor in a new garage

[Fordguy1964]

Ok. So the title is not really 100% true but hear me out. So I just bought a house with a 30x60 detached garage. I want a compressor, of course, so I brought the one from my old e. So the property also has a "well pump house" that is 20'x20' and is about 6 feet behind the garage. There is 220V out there in the pump house. I know you all are ahead of me on this one... the pump house is also insulated and has a thermostatically controlled 12" square exhaust fan. So this is the perfect location to have the compressor so I don't have to listen to it in the garage. The real question is how do I span the distance between the garage and the pump house? Do I trench and come in under both slabs and pop up through the floor? Do I install conduit above and run the air line overhead? This area between the buildings is grass the buildings are wood framed and steel sheeted. The location is in Southern Alabama so frost or freezing temps are rarely a problem.

What do you think?
Thank you

 

[Bessy]

Don't overthink it. Put an automatic/timed drain on the bottom of the compressor, then run pipe (or even hose) in a trench. Stub out conduit on outer wall of each building where you want your power/air in/out. Add a water/oil separator and regulator in the shop, and there you have it.

 

[908Jim]

I would use schedule 80 black pipe between the buildings and never think about it again. Through the walls above ground then down underground between the two.

Ideally, oversize the run, add a surge tank in the shop, and invest in high quality filtration.

Give thought to how you would shut the compressor off to avoid having to walk to the pump house.

 

[Fordguy1964]

I would use schedule 80 black pipe between the buildings and never think about it again. Through the walls above ground then down underground between the two.

Ideally, oversize the run, add a surge tank in the shop, and invest in high quality filtration.

Give thought to how you would shut the compressor off to avoid having to walk to the pump house.

Thanks. I am concerned with the pipe rusting out but I guess schedule 80 even underground will outlast me. That was my main concern with burial. That and the temp difference and condensating collecting water. Since that will be the system low point.

As far as the "remote" location, I am adding a motor starter in the garage and running a low voltage control wire over there to start it. That part was always in the plans.

 

[BillK]

My entire shop is plumbed in 3/4" copper. Way easier to work with than black pipe and it will also outlast you. Personally if there is a way to do it above ground and have it look acceptable that is what I would prefer. The underground part is always going to get water in it no matter how you run it. If you are not planning on doing any painting it might be ok but if you want really dry air I would not run it underground.

 

[imagineer]

Spend a few extra bucks and use stainless for the buried section, and slope it toward a drain valve.

 

[908Jim]

Thanks. I am concerned with the pipe rusting out but I guess schedule 80 even underground will outlast me. That was my main concern with burial. That and the temp difference and condensating collecting water. Since that will be the system low point.

As far as the "remote" location, I am adding a motor starter in the garage and running a low voltage control wire over there to start it. That part was always in the plans.

I think condensing is a definite advantage for you, helping make your water separators more effective. People spend a lot of money to cause condensation! By all means, use copper underground but protect the above ground sections. Even if some collects underground, who cares? If it blows out of my lawn sprinklers, it will probably blow out of your line too.

If it were me, the lines would come through the wall and up to two large filters/separators, like a 40 and 5 Micron, then into copper or rapidair with drops, drip legs, and point of use filtration as required.

 

[BillK]

Spend a few extra bucks and use stainless for the buried section, and slope it toward a drain valve.

Thats the problem with underground. The drain valve really needs to be at the lowest spot and that is impossible to do.

 

[Kaizen]

You have a 400sq ft building just for well pump? Sounds huge like you are pumping oil. Make sure you have enough amps there for both to kick on at the same time. If designed just for pump it might trip

 

[CraigStu]

Thats the problem with underground. The drain valve really needs to be at the lowest spot and that is impossible to do.

I agree. I'd run it overhead some way, somehow. Then it can drain to a valve.

 

[Hooked]

Being only 6' apart I think I would, if allowed, simply connect the two buildings and solve the overhead or buried problem. Also gives easy access if necessary and additional storage space or project specific workspace.

 

[Sumboodie]

I used 3/4" airline in a conduit. 100ft of trench.

 

[racecougar]

Is the pump house floor at ground level, or is it sunk into the ground (up here, pump house floors are well below the ground/frost line)?

 

[imagineer]

Thats the problem with underground. The drain valve really needs to be at the lowest spot and that is impossible to do.

Put the compressor on a riser stand, tall enough that you can put a vertical pipe and valve under the compressor tank. Slope the line back toward the compressor and "T" into the vertical pipe. If you want, you can add an automatic drain in place of the valve.

 

[908Jim]

Thats the problem with underground. The drain valve really needs to be at the lowest spot and that is impossible to do.

If compressed air blows the water out of my underground sprinkler system every fall, I would imagine it will blow out of the underground airline and get caught in a separator as well. Maybe I'm off base, but taking advantage of the ability to condense moisture with the underground line is a worthwhile trade. @Fordguy1964 can also T a drip leg underground and run some copper coil from the bottom of the drip leg back above ground and T into the automatic tank drain so that the drip leg and the tank both get drained automatically.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Thats the problem with underground. The drain valve really needs to be at the lowest spot and that is impossible to do.

Not really, that is what a waterbox is for, but I would use an extended stem on the drain valve to make it easier to reach. I have my shop water line in a box and use a piece of pvc pipe with a slotted end to turn both the supply valve and drain back valve while standing up. the waterbox sits on rocks in the ground to allow water drainage.

 

[no704]

Just run pvc

 

[CraigStu]

Yep, run 2" pvc above head height from one building to the other. Put your pipe, or even standard air hose, inside the pvc. Now any valves, drains, filters, water traps etc can be easily accessible. This can all be done in 2-3 hours. You can also run a new power supply through the pvc if it becomes necessary. KISS.