Compressor in roof space questions (remote location)

[Com_VC]

Hey all,

I have been considering putting the compressor up in the roof space to so I can gain some more space on the floor and hopefully reduce the noise level. I just have a few questions.

The compressor has a regulator with a built in water trap mounted to it, the trap seems to pickup a lot of water, so would need to be drained quite regulary. Would sorta be a pain going up in the roof space just to do so.

I think I heard somewhere that there shouldn't be a trap mounted on the compressor anyway as it's always going to pickup water and should be placed further down stream?

Not sure what to do..

Should I just remove the regulator/water trap completly and run some gal piping and then add the reg/water trap further down stream where I have easy access to it?

Or is it a good idea to keep the regulator on the compressor?

Thanks

 

[930dreamer]

I'd remove the regulator from the compressor and install downstream. Keep a way to drain the tank because it will collect moisture. Just remember if you install the compressor in the rafters, that's where you will have to work on it. I like to be able to see the oil level etc and watch it run without climbing.

 

[Com_VC]

Thanks,

I have an auto drain valve, but it's sorta annoying when it goes off, is there a way to make it quiet?

I could probably fit a ball valve and use a string to open it up, I'd have to setup a spring to close the ball valve once I let go of the string though.

I have a fair bit of space to work up in the roof space, only thing I am sorta worried about is weight, I don't think it should put too much strain on the rafters though. It's a 3HP compressor with 50L tank, same configuration as your profile pic.

 

[zoomzoomjeff]

I plan on stuffing my 60 gallon tank up in the rafters, but separating the motor, compressor, and all related hardware and putting it below, so I can save space in the garage. I'll plumb a drain pipe from the tank to the floor level with a ball valve for drainage.

Kinda the best of both worlds, unless I'm missing something.

 

[MBfreak]

Hi, new to this great community, but been around tinkering for a while.
Live in mid Sweden, so winters are COLD. I have my compressor up in the attic which is ambient temp. I have put a AC compressor 50 W crankcase heater in, that I switch on when it is cold. This is to prevent water droplets from freezing in the compressor itself. The 200 liter accumulator tank is a bit of a worry. It is far too big to keep above the freezing point, so draining it in the winter is tough. Luckily, much moisture in the air condenses out at low ambient, so water accumulation in the winter is not a real big problem.
In the garage, I have a 2 liter oil/water separator filter unit. All works well. Getting rid of the spacerobbing machine and the noise is a real boon.

Fot the guys living in a decent climate, ( ie , non freezing) good for you and none of the above has any meaning .

Best regards

Ola

 

[nehog]

I don't think there is any reason you can't "remote" the tank drain... My tank drain is on a six inch piece of air-brake line so I can more easily reach it. Works well. Or just invest in an automatic drain?

 

[930dreamer]

Thanks,

I have an auto drain valve, but it's sorta annoying when it goes off, is there a way to make it quiet?

I could probably fit a ball valve and use a string to open it up, I'd have to setup a spring to close the ball valve once I let go of the string though.

I have a fair bit of space to work up in the roof space, only thing I am sorta worried about is weight, I don't think it should put too much strain on the rafters though. It's a 3HP compressor with 50L tank, same configuration as your profile pic.

Keep the auto drain, just put a gallon jug under it to catch the water.

 

[MBfreak]

Yo,

I envy you guys living in a decent climate. Up here, the remote drain/auto drain stuff will be the first to fill up with water, and come winter the drain stuff will freeze solid, unless you snake a heater cable along it.

Come spring , i will work again!

Ola

 

[kbs2244]

zoomzoom has the idea.
Put the tank out of the way and keep the moving parts where you can reach the.
If you use 3/4 or 1 inch pipe to go to the tank you should get enough cooling of the air and condensing of the moisture so that you don't get much, if any, in the tank.
It may be worth it to go to 1 1/2 or even 2 inch.
Then a drain valve at the bottom will take care of it.

 

[Com_VC]

Thanks all,

If I use bigger pipe won't the compressor take a long time to pump up? I was thinking 3/4" gal pipe for the long straight lines and using copper for the bends etc.

Obviously I want to do it right the first time, so if I need bigger pipe then that is fine too.

Also am I going to need a flexible line between the tank and the pipe, where do you get these from?

Thanks

 

[930dreamer]

Thanks all,

If I use bigger pipe won't the compressor take a long time to pump up? I was thinking 3/4" gal pipe for the long straight lines and using copper for the bends etc.

Obviously I want to do it right the first time, so if I need bigger pipe then that is fine too.

Also am I going to need a flexible line between the tank and the pipe, where do you get these from?

Thanks

I used hydraulic 3/4" hose that had the correct ends on it from a tractor supply company.

How big is the compressor? I used 1/2" black pipe mostly because it was free for my 5 hp compressor.

 

[Motofixxer]

Blk pipe is recommended for air lines, not Galvanized. Something bout the flakes of coating peeling off and clogging things or something.
A flexible line is recommended between the line and compressor to avoid vibration etc. If you do some searching on air lines on the site here you can probably find info on where/what to buy. Typically lines are available at local industrial places, truck service shops etc. Also I believe some is available at Tractor supply or Grainger, Mcmaster-Carr etc.

 

[Com_VC]

It's a 3hp compressor with 50L tank, pump is 16cfm.

I always heard black pipe would rust and gal pipe should be used?

 

[G M]

Here is my setup, 80 gallon stage

I have a remote breaker box for it, and the switch under that box controls a valve to turn on the auto drain and the valve that supplies the air to the lines. Upper copper line is the air, lower one is the drain.

 

[RickC]

My son and I are currently neck deep in a compressor build / remote tank project. Plans are to mount the 80 gallon (originally horizontal) tank in a vertical position against the rear wall of the shop. The compressor pump/motor assembly will be only a few feet away, mounted on a (heavy) wood and Uni-strut sled we've built for the purpose.

This will clear up a good bit of floor space, allow us to keep both pieces inside in a protected setting and separate the potentially noisy pump/motor assembly from a resonating tank.

The pump and motor restoration are complete, as is the mounting sled. The tank itself has been prepped and primed and is ready for paint.

It's been quite the project but we've covered our bases with attention to detail and safety. The pump, motor and tank all came to us as separate pieces as freebies.

I'll make a point to get a pic or two posted ... will make a lot more sense with a visual reference.

This is my first post ... been lurking and reading since October though. (Have consumed the entire 'Vises' thread as well as the entire 'Show / compressor' thread ... whew!!) Just re-upped today with a 'less-identifiable' user name .... looking forward to participating a bit now.

 

[sturgis 39]

The trouble with mounting the compressor in a roof space is the heat. The ceiling area is always the warmest spot. All vertical air lines should have a valve to drain the water before it enters the air tool. Usually about a one foot nibble below the nibble and valve that will feed the air tool. Moisture in the air will condense because of temperature changes in the shop and the water will collect in the lowest location.