Hello. So I got this oil free craftsman model #919165610 air compressor and it wouldn’t build over 90 psi… so I went ahead and changed the cylinders and rings and anything associated to that with new items. It builds over 90 psi now (I let it run until it got to 110ish and then turned it off because it took like 20 minutes to reach that pressure. The compressor is rated for 175 psi. Anyways does anyone have ideas on why it takes so long to build pressure? I heard that the copper wire needs to get super super hot but mine is fairly cool, it’s a little above room temperature. You can definitely hold on to it. I uploaded some pics if that helps at all..thanks in advance!!
Compressor issue
- Thread starter Dex64
- Start date
you have a leak somewhere, you need to get some soapy water & start looking.
the copper wire ? do you mean the tube that runs from the compressor to the tank? that should get very hot. (burn skin hot)
the copper wire ? do you mean the tube that runs from the compressor to the tank? that should get very hot. (burn skin hot)
another thing to check is that the gauge is reading accurate. ( swap out with another gauge)
Yes that copper tube that runs to the on and off switch contraption module thing. It does not get burning hot. I’m thinking it may be clogged. Should the tank be drained of air when taking this off?
I’ll order one and try
doubtful it is plugged . I strongly suspect you have a leak somewhere . does the tank hold pressure or does it leak down?
It does not get that hot. I can touch and keep my fingers there no problem. It has 2 pipes by the way one leasing into the motor or something and then one copper tube leading to the pressure switch where the wires are hooked up. The one going to the motor is a silver color and also doesn’t get hot.
It holds pressure yes
If there was a leak like that wouldn’t I hear air escaping? Also this is a 20 year old compressor lol so I’m think worst case scenario the motor is clapped out of its mind.
Bill T
Well-known member
I am going to make a suggestion.. please do not take this personally. From your post i gather that you are not very savy on compressor maintenance. If you have a friend close by, have him/her over to help you. An air compressor is a big bomb if you do get it very wrong. Get the pressure switch wrong , have an old tank (can look great on the outside and still be paper thin from rust on the inside), get the relief valve mis-adjusted or replace it with the wrong valve and caboom. Don't get me wrong, air compressors are not that hard to maintain or diagnose if you have the basics down, but we can't all be experts at everything.... don't rely on the internet if you are not sure. This board/ forum is great, has very knowledable folks on it, but they can only give you the answers to the correct questions. If you don't ask the right question, or misunderstand their response, bad things can happen. Again please do not take this personally, it is not intended to be negative.
Have a good day.
Have a good day.
BillK
Well-known member
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Nothing "needs" to get hot. It just gets hot. The tubing going to the unloader does not have any flow in it, so really, nobody cares if it gets hot. Whoever told you that is just a dumb person. When it's running, the tubing that actually has flow in it will get blazing hot and that is not helpful at all, it just happens. And really, I would encourage you to ignore all that sort of thinking entirely. It's just not helpful.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Probably. A leak big enough to really slow you down. But honestly, you could use soap in just a few seconds, so why argue?
Stedlin
Well-known member
Check the reed valves?
I’ll be doing it. Where should I spray and not spray? Kind of like the general area? Exactly what would you want me to spray.
Oil less air compressor, not sure if they have reed valves. When replacing the piston, sleeves and what not, I did not notice any reed valves
Yes I already ordered a new one via part number. I would clean it but idc what it takes to make this compressor run
Stedlin
Well-known member
All oilless air compressors use reed valves. If yours are leaking it could easily explain the problem.
Reed valves are likely bad. Item 114 on this page:https://mastertoolrepair.com/statio...-air-compressor-parts-919165610-p-960607.html
You can remove and check before spending the money. But may need gaskets to reassemble, maybe not though, depends on how cleanly they come apart.
You can remove and check before spending the money. But may need gaskets to reassemble, maybe not though, depends on how cleanly they come apart.
Zeke
Well-known member
Listen to Bill T. Another thing, IDK when compressors sold to the general hobby user began to charge past 120 lb. There is no need for 175 lbs. of pressure. Pressure build up is not linear and wastes electricity, not to mention wear on components.
You ask what kind of spray. Use a few drops of liquid soap in a trigger spray. Use Windex. You just want to see bubbles.
Ordering parts on speculation is ignorant. Taking the thing apart is not even recommended. If it were me, I'd throw in the towel and buy a decent compressor and it wouldn't oil less or direct drive. I only use those as small portable ones and they last a few years depending on use and then go in the bin.
Lastly, it says '2-stage' so you might have an internal problem between cylinders. No spray will detect that. In fact, if it doesn't leak down when off, you have a problem.
You ask what kind of spray. Use a few drops of liquid soap in a trigger spray. Use Windex. You just want to see bubbles.
Ordering parts on speculation is ignorant. Taking the thing apart is not even recommended. If it were me, I'd throw in the towel and buy a decent compressor and it wouldn't oil less or direct drive. I only use those as small portable ones and they last a few years depending on use and then go in the bin.
Lastly, it says '2-stage' so you might have an internal problem between cylinders. No spray will detect that. In fact, if it doesn't leak down when off, you have a problem.
rayra
Well-known member
Nothing said about a pressure regulator and what it is set to.
My oil-free upright Craftsman noise polluter has a blow-off valve that is 140(?)psi and a regulator I usually leave around 100, since most of my air tools warn against anything higher.
Sounds more like the op's compressor is running until it goes into thermal shutdown, if it won't get to max / set pressure in a short while.
That the op doesn't seem to understand the very common and simple method of spraying all the air plumbing joints with a soap solution to detect a leak doesn't give me any confidence in either his mechanical ability or troubleshooting ability. It would probably help him and all of us if he finds a local with more skills to troubleshoot his problem.
My oil-free upright Craftsman noise polluter has a blow-off valve that is 140(?)psi and a regulator I usually leave around 100, since most of my air tools warn against anything higher.
Sounds more like the op's compressor is running until it goes into thermal shutdown, if it won't get to max / set pressure in a short while.
That the op doesn't seem to understand the very common and simple method of spraying all the air plumbing joints with a soap solution to detect a leak doesn't give me any confidence in either his mechanical ability or troubleshooting ability. It would probably help him and all of us if he finds a local with more skills to troubleshoot his problem.
Mick56
Well-known member
A blown head gasket could have symptoms like you describe. Run and run and hardly build pressure.
Just put new gaskets so they should be fine hopefully
I’m just new to air compressors. Never owned one so never needed to maintain one. I’m just building a truck so I’m looking for the right guidance on this and get everyone’s opinion. I’m not arguing with anyone or saying anyone is wrong, I’m just using what I think is common sense and saying if there was an air leak that bad then how can it not be heard lmao. When I discharge the tank my ears start to ring from the air coming out so I’d expect a heavy release of air coming from somewhere but I may be wrong I suppose since I don’t know anything abt these things nor care enough to really learn them. Just want someone to tell me what to change and do and that’s what I’m here for. So I appreciate everyone giving opinions instead of expressing their opinion on weather or not I can perform a mechanical fix. I built engines and transmissions so if that doesn’t scream mechanical inclanation I don’t know what does.
What do you mean by “leak down”. I remember my buddies air compressor would automatically shut off and then you’d hear air escaping from somewhere. Almost as a discharge. His is a one stage oil air compressor. It was a very quite sound of air escaping.. if that’s what you’re talking about then I do not have that sound once the compressor is turned off
I don’t care about the parts to be honest, if I can get this thing to work then anything I can replace with a new part will be replaced regardless if it works fine. If I can’t get it to work with every new part I can replace then I’ll j toss it in the bin. I’m about $50 deep into this thing so I’ll keep giving it a shot
Zeke
Well-known member
Leak down = air loss when off. Not that many air systems hold air overnight, much less weeks.
Ok ya I don’t have that issue. It holds perfectly
The brief rush of air when the pump turns off is the unloader valve. Is typically mounted to the pressure/power switch. When the pump turns off the valve opens and empties the air in the line between the pump and tank. A one way check valve where the air goes into the tank keeps you from venting the tank air when the unloader is open.
If you are holding air pressure when the pump turns off then your check valve and tank etc are good. My guess is you have a bad valve in the pump or a bad gasket. The typical symptoms of a bad gasket or valve is the tank pressure doesn't climb but there is no obvious leak.