Compressor motor help please

[squarles67]

I got a great deal on an Ingersoll Rand T30 Compressor (free) but it has motor problems. It looks like they thought it was the capacitor as the cover was off and wires undone. I believe it is supposed to have two caps but only one was present.

I took the motor apart and the stationary switch is bad so I believe it can be fixed relatively cheap. It's missing one of the contacts (bottom one in the pic).

Does anyone know where I can get the switch? Part number?

Anyone know what start capacitor goes on it?

Here is the motor plate. It's single phase 5 HP

 

[rockwithjason]

it's a proprietary motor. i did find a diagram on flickr for it tho
https://www.flickr.com/photos/charles_jones149/3818450241/
you can try to contact IR for the stationary switch but i doubt you will have much luck. have you tried your local motor shop?

 

[squarles67]

The local guys only work on the big industrial motors

 

[bsaint]

If you can't get the parts, since you got it for free here is my two cents. You can get a Baldor 5hp single phase motor shipped from eBay for $360. It would be worth it for a T30 especially if its a white or gray unit. Tan or Black I would stay with trying to fix the motor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-HP-SINGLE...591?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4163971f5f

 

[nehog]

One path would be to fix the one remaining contact on the switch, use a relay to handle the actual current of the motor (since one contact won't have enough rating to last) and go with that. The diagram posted by RockWithJason has the capacitor specs.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

run this link.................

http://www.yellowpages.com/orange-tx/small-electric-motor-repair

I saw that Grayson was the large motor division, but there are 30 listings in the area for small electric motor repair. Surely one of them in Port Arthur, Beaumont, or across the river in LA can repair and test it for a decent price.

I was born in PA, and left there in '61 at the age of 6. We lived in Nederland. that high bridge at Orange always scared me when we crossed it. High bridges still scare me.

Charles

 

[squarles67]

Thanks guys. That motor on Ebay will be the route I go if I can't get anything done with this one. I'm just too cheap not to try and fix this one, I can't help it.

I'd already thought about hot wiring it using the one remaining contact. I'll likely do that if I can't find a new switch.

Charles I have a sister in law that is scared to death of that bridge. There is actually two of them now, they built a sister bridge in the early 90's. The old one built in '39 is south bound and the new one is north bound.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Graingers has that motor, but you won't like the price:

https://www.grainger.com/product/BALDOR-ELECTRIC-Motor-38G369?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/38G311_AS01?$smthumb$

Tommy

 

[pv74]

For a motor of that size, I would try an electric motor repair shop. Most cities tend to have at least one. It would probably be cheaper to go that route. I would also have them replace the bearings while they have it torn apart...those are standard parts and fairly cheap.

 

[squarles67]

Yea I saw that Grainger price when I was searching

I think I found the right switch on line, I'll post again when it comes in so the part number will be there for anyone searching down the road. It was $36

Everything else in the motor is fine, including the bearings

 

[redmondjp]

Yea I saw that Grainger price when I was searching

I think I found the right switch on line, I'll post again when it comes in so the part number will be there for anyone searching down the road. It was $36

Everything else in the motor is fine, including the bearings

Have you megger-tested the motor windings to see if the winding insulation is OK?

I have a similar motor as yours - I'll try to get outside to open the cover on it to see what values are used for the start and run caps.

 

[squarles67]

As a follow up to this I was able to get the stationary switch from http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/ and the Baldor part number is SP5064SP.

The diagram rockwithjasonposted was very helpful (it took me a couple tries to get it right though)

It does indeed take two electronic start caps, I only had one and it wouldn't start once it had pressure in it. Once I added the second one (and got it wired right) it runs great.

All in all I have about 75 bucks in it so i can't complain.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Glad,you got it sorted!

Tommy

 

[nehog]

Here is the diagram from rockwithjasonposted hosted here so future users won't have problems downloading it...