Compressor motor location/tank location question.

[MillerMav]

After spending a lot of time laying out my garage space (still in progress) and spending a lot of time just reading threads on here I have a question.....

I have found a few threads through the search function about separating the pump on my compressor from the tank. This fits the bill perfectly for me because I have a great location in mind for the pump where I could mount it and sound isolate it that really can't be used for anything else (under stairs). I would obviously make sure air circulation was accounted for to prevent overheating.

My question is does the pump HAVE to be in an certain location in relation to the tank? I have high ceilings so I thought that if I could put pump the under the stairs and then get the tank up in the air it would make my life much easier by giving me more floor space. Would this cause any kind of issue? If that idea is okay would I use a hard line or soft line to plumb from the pump to the tank? Last would I need any items in that line to prevent damage to the pump or tank?

Thank you for your help; I really did try to search this question but couldn't find an answer.

 

[rsanter]

The larger commercial compressors have the compressor without a tank and in an enclosure then the tank is separate. Many places use 2 tanks, a wet and a dry tank.
Compressor feeds into the wet tank then there is the oil and water separators and then goes into the dry tank.

Can you put the tank outside verses up high?

To connect the compressor and the tank you can use copper, aluminum, or steel pipe

Bob

 

[MillerMav]

Can you put the tank outside verses up high?

It wouldn't be possible to put the tank outside. Its an attached garage and all three of the exposed sides would not make for an elegant place to put a tank even with some creative camouflage. If I could I would probably figure out a way to just move the whole unit outside but then I would have to worry about freezing temperatures living in Michigan.

I could mount the tank on level with the pump if need be but having the pump down low under the stairs and the tank up high out of the way would be ideal.

 

[kbs2244]

When you run the piping up to the tank level a tee and a drip leg, like the gas piping, with a drain valve at the bottom of the drop leg.
The pipe should be large, 1 ½ or 2 inches.
That will slow the speed of the air in the pipe and increase the surface area for cooling.
The end result is going to be dryer air into the tank and lessening the need to drain the tank.

Don’t forget that a small car muffler plumbed into the pump intake system will quiet it down a lot.

 

[MillerMav]

I don't know if it matters but this is a 30 gallon CH compressor oil-less running off of 120v. I just thought I would throw that out there just in case. My plan is to do this over next week sometime because I have the week off for a "stay-cation" so my nights will be freed up to get some work done in the garage.

 

[bad_idea]

You can put the tank anywhere you want. Won't hurt a thing, just have to keep a few things in mind. You need to be able to drain the tank. You should install a relief valve on the tank, if it isn't already there. There may be a relief valve on the compressor pump, but I would put one on the tank too. If it is a smaller compressor, then you don't NEED to plumb a huge line from the pump to the tank, 3/4" would probably do it. This is one thing though where bigger is better. I would not put a valve between the pump and the tank. It may seem convenient to have the ability to isolate the tank from the pump, but if you ever forget to open the valve before starting the compressor something may go boom. You need to run a line from the pump to the tank, then plumb your air connections from the tank. The air needs to enter the tank to cool and shed most of it's water content before you run it through your tools.

Most people don't like to locate their air compressors or tanks up high because draining the water becomes a nuisance. You can always plumb an auto drain into it.

 

[gungatim]

If you locate the pump far away from the tank, put the check valve close to the compressor, don't just lengthen the pipe between the tank valve and pump. A long pipe will hold air pressure and make it difficult for the pump to start. Usually the check valve is mounted directly on the tank with a short pipe run from the pump. Remove the valve and run your pipe between the valve and tank, not the other way around.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If you locate the pump far away from the tank, put the check valve close to the compressor, don't just lengthen the pipe between the tank valve and pump. A long pipe will hold air pressure and make it difficult for the pump to start. Usually the check valve is mounted directly on the tank with a short pipe run from the pump. Remove the valve and run your pipe between the valve and tank, not the other way around.

No, the long pipe won't hold pressure with the check valve at the tank, since the pressure switch operated head pressure relief will dump the pressure in the pipe from the pump head to the check valve, it will just take longer to do it with the longer pipe.

Charles

 

[larry_g]

You need to run a line from the pump to the tank, then plumb your air connections from the tank. The air needs to enter the tank to cool and shed most of it's water content before you run it through your tools.

Most people don't like to locate their air compressors or tanks up high because draining the water becomes a nuisance. You can always plumb an auto drain into it.

X2 on the cooling effect of the tank. You can pipe out of the bottom of the tank for a drain and put the valve down where it is convenient to operate. So you do have to pay some attention to the orientation of the tank so you have a drain on the bottom and pull working air from a higher point on the tank.

lg
no neat sig line