To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Compressor oil type?

mad57

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
I did a search on oil type here didnt find much, if i missed something i apoligize .. but iam looking to change oil in new/used compressor and read that 30w non detergent is used . but what is best for my out side compressor in winter?are the mobile 1 oils available in non detergent? in 30w?
iS 20W A WARM WEATHER OIL?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Zrexxer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
5,058
Location
Pflugerville, TX
I use Mobil Rarus 427, specifically made for reciprocating compressor duty. I don't know where you are or how cold you're anticipating it to be.
 

z28snksknr

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
1,827
Location
Turnersville, NJ
I asked this question a while back since my owners manual says "use any 30W synthetic oil." No discussion of non-detergent oils or otherwise.

I plan on using Mobil 1 10W-30. I don't know what bad effects any detergents are going to have, and I'm skeptical that it would be harmful.
 
OP
M

mad57

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
I asked this question a while back since my owners manual says "use any 30W synthetic oil." No discussion of non-detergent oils or otherwise.

I plan on using Mobil 1 10W-30. I don't know what bad effects any detergents are going to have, and I'm skeptical that it would be harmful.

Ive read else where on the net that compressors fail from detergent oils, but also some people use only that and no problems, considering the 30 dollar cost its worth the investement iam gonna try mobil 427.
 

wineslob

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
233
Location
The Northstate
Plain old 30 wt motor oil is fine in most reciprocating (piston) compressors. You don't have to worry about any of the "issues" of a combustion engine(heat oil burning, ect) so it works like a champ. I have used it in several small, tank mounted machines for years with no problems.
Some rotary screw machines use ATF, though I do prefer a synthetic in the ones at work.
 

Gary S

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
2,972
Location
Bismarck, ND
The owner's manual for my compressor calls for compressor oil, not motor oil. I use compressor oil. It costs about the same as motor oil.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

wineslob

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
233
Location
The Northstate
The owner's manual for my compressor calls for compressor oil, not motor oil. I use compressor oil. It costs about the same as motor oil.

Guess what, most likely it IS motor oil. :bounce:
Put it this way, a 1958 Joy 40 hp (recip) that used(s) the same exact construction as a new recip( read: todays), used..................30wt motor oil(same with a 50's I/R 15 hp unit we also had). It lasted 40 years before we sold it, and for all I know, it's still going strong.
It's kinda like the "fluid" (a BS name they give it) that we have (don't want to void the warrenty don't cha know) to use in our "new" rotary screw machine, except it's been re-badged by I/R so you pay twice as much ordering it from them. I order from their supplier.
 

radmotorworks

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
6
The 0/5/10-W rating is essentially polymers in the oil that let it pour down a hole at the same rate (same viscosity) even when in frigidair. These ingredients don't do much to lubricate. The advantage of using in cold outside is less startup strain on motor although, since you are not getting power off of it, I'm not sure if its that big a deal in a driven pump. Incidently, have not seem any -W ratings in non-detergent. You might go 20 instead of 30, non-detergent.

Non- is used if no oil filter as detergent oil suspends carbon particles and other stuff that leaks through combustion piston rings etc. (chemically something like a cross bar on a u-magnet) so it circulates until filtered out instead of embedding and growing a colony. In your compressor, these particles will splash circulate continuously which may cause more wear and failure in some cases.

Non-detergent oil lets particles settle which is why the inside bottom of your pump will look like a can of sludge. Synthetic is generally always better except for breakin when you want some conditioning wear for smooth running. Some "synthetic" is actually a blend. You may be in confusing territory as to where to get it. Amsoil PC Series is probably tops for reasonable $ but most Amsoil dealers in my limited experience do not stock (guess you could order but that might take too long).

Incidently, you want the best of the best--then buy DeVilbiss Sythetic--you get it at the Devil's dealers but it will cost more than a cheap compressor pump. This stuff is kool aid in color, pours like syrup, and is made for 24/7.
 

hetkind

Banned
Joined
Sep 28, 2008
Messages
995
Location
Johnson City, Tennessee
I do one change a year on the IR compressor, and I buy the IR branded compressor oil from Nothern Tool. Not worth it for me to chase down a second source on this...but I have a feeling that in a pinch, I could use Rotella, change it yearly and not have a problem...

Howard
 

Dan0myte

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
92
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan
Non- is used if no oil filter as detergent oil suspends carbon particles and other stuff that leaks through combustion piston rings etc. (chemically something like a cross bar on a u-magnet) so it circulates until filtered out instead of embedding and growing a colony. In your compressor, these particles will splash circulate continuously which may cause more wear and failure in some cases.

Non-detergent oil lets particles settle which is why the inside bottom of your pump will look like a can of sludge.

Thanks for posting that. I was just about to post the same thing. Motor oil in an air compressor is not cool. :sad:
 

Dan0myte

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
92
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan
What if your compressor has an oil filter???

The detergents in the motor oil still froth and cause aeration in the oil. The rings on the piston of an air compressor are not designed the same as the rings on the piston of a combustion engine and can not handle the detergents and this effect.

People say "Oh, I just put 10W-30 in there, it works fine." Well sure, it works. It's still oil and still a lubricant. But is it good for the longevity of your pump and rings? Nope. It's like washing your car with dish soap. Does it clean the car? Yep. Does it strip all the waxes and protectants off of your paint and make it vulnerable to damage? Yep. Probably not the best choice.
 

RbrtAWhyt

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
5,154
Location
North East Georgia
My compressor's instructions said to use "any synthetic 20W50 motor oil". I had a bottle of Harley Davidson SYN3 so I put that in there. I have a Husky I got from Home Depot. Its a radged CH unit. Does fairly well and I've had no complaints...
 

wineslob

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
233
Location
The Northstate
The detergents in the motor oil still froth and cause aeration in the oil. The rings on the piston of an air compressor are not designed the same as the rings on the piston of a combustion engine and can not handle the detergents and this effect.

People say "Oh, I just put 10W-30 in there, it works fine." Well sure, it works. It's still oil and still a lubricant. But is it good for the longevity of your pump and rings? Nope. It's like washing your car with dish soap. Does it clean the car? Yep. Does it strip all the waxes and protectants off of your paint and make it vulnerable to damage? Yep. Probably not the best choice.

So....being made of cast iron........................:confused:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom