Compressor on sale...a little help please!

[R6 Racer]

This is a great sale price for Canada! (60 Gal. compressors up here are $700+ all the time). I found out some things about it & am hoping for some help.

I am comparing it to a CH in the US @ $399(US) & it's pump is all cast iron.
10.3scfm@90psi.

The Iron Horse @ 449(Cdn) +6 mo. no pay/no interest.
It's a cast iron pump with cast aluminum heads.(don't know about the cylinders)+-.
11.2scfm@90psi.
The motor runs @3600rpm. (don't know about the pump, any help would be appreciated here)
The whole unit has a 1 year warranty.


I know the IH will be louder, but just how much louder?
Are there any other reasons any one knows of to stay away from aluminum heads & cylinders?

Do you think it would be worthwhile to make the 1@1/2hour drive (1 way) for the CH or am I better to go down the road 10 min & get the Iron Horse?

In after your opinions...please help!

Steve

 

[Garry Carter]

First of all ... we'll just get this out of the way up front ... I don't know SQUAT about compressors, rated HP, air pressure, or any of that important stuff. I simply have a small quantity of experience.

Bought a CH 60-gal 7-hp (supposedly) unit from Tractor Supply about 5 years ago because it was affordable -- about $400. I run lots of air tools. For continuous, albeit occasional commercial-level activity, it can't keep up. I find myself waiting for the compressor anytime I'm involved in a big project.

If I had it to do over, I'd spend the extra money and get a better compressor, probably an IR or a good used commercial/industrial quality unit. There's an old saying that ... "the bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the thrill of low price is gone."

 

[AJ1978]

When I am purchasing something I ask, What am I going to use this for? Will it be "just" enough or more than I will need. So before some people put in their 2 cents we will want to know what your looking to use it for and how often. On that note I can tell you some people have economy line copressors made by CH and they work fine, while other guys I know have burnt 2 and 3 up, because they are under powered. Post back

 

[R6 Racer]

I am trying to find the right buy on a good hobby compressor. It will be used almost exclusively by me. Mostly with assorted air tools including, sanders, ratchets all the usual stuff.
I am hoping to get (or make) a blast cabinet down the road a bit. I know this takes more air but I don't how much. I also don't mind taking breaks fairly often!

Can anyone tell me just how much louder the aluminum head compressors are & is there any other problems associated with the aluminum other than being louder?

Steve

 

[AJ1978]

Alot of compressors now a days in the "value line" are great for occasional and weekend use. The origin of materials, and quality sometimes suffer when imported depending on quality control, patents etc.
What is the ad specing for CFM delivered? I cant make it out but looks like 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI??

Noise is due to imbalance, vibration, excessive motor RPMS, I prefer a motor at the 1750 RPM. I have seen several alumnium head compressors that are very quiet.
Several years ago our vol. fire department purchased a CH "farm hand compressor" single stage 60 gallon, cast iron pump. The purpose was to keep a few older trucks full on air, and for a plymovent system. Average air useage led to the compressor cycling 5 6 times a day, occasionally a large project. The compressor pump spun bearings in 3 years!

I am not sure on who makes the pump you are looking at. Sandblasting would drain that unit if its a single stage quick and cause lots of heat. These economy compressors have poor heat dissapation characteristicts from what i have seen and read.

Running sanders, DA's Grinders will drain and if y ou dont mind taking breaks and mite not be using it daily I think you would be fine.

MY 2 cents. I have an old 1960's KELLOGG that has been in the family since then, the pump has only had the valves rebuilt twice. going for a 3rd soon. It has outlived 2 tanks, and unfortuntally my grandfather. it was slow turning but delivered a non stop supply of air, CAST IRON ALL THE WAY. When looking for a second unit for my house I narrowed it down to a SAYLOR BEALL, American made, CAST IRON. and Champion. I settled on a champion with reed valves, because it was used, but only 50 hours, and in great shape, and for an incredible price. The cylinder is alumnium and to be honest has done a great job for me, they have alot of finns for heat disipation and where i used to work had the same unit but with disc valves and it ran non stop for over 15 yrs and still running.
I am rambling and my thoughts are scattered. Get us the specs (I can't read them) and others will chime in. From what you are looking to do, I belive this mite work, please dont take me as being pushy, but I hate to see someone waste hard earned money.

 

[Skin]

Older compressors are definitely the best. I know a few small full time shops that are operating with 1960 era brunners and Saylor Bealls. The only caveat to check on older compressors is that the pumps [2-stage preferred] can be rebuilt and that the tanks are sound. Often times when they pop up people are trying to give them away due to their size and age. So if you got one for practically nothing, even if you had to rebuild the pump for a few hundred, it would be a better investment in the long run. Obviously just make sure you can still get parts. For older Brunners and Saylor Bealls you can.

The main benefit of the older models is they ran at a lower RPM and as a result cooler. Heat kills compressors plain and simple.

Thats not to say high RPMs are bad. Quincy has been selling models that operate at around 3500RPM for 15+ years and many of those are still going strong today. However those are also rather expensive compressors. I'd be dubious about the quality of the pump in a cheapo compressor like that which also functions at a very high RPM. It looks to be a single stage as well so its probably not very quiet either. My guess is either DeVilbiss or CH [They make the compressors found in most of the big box stores in the US] is behind the particular unit you're looking at so purchasing a CH thats the same would be pointless in my opinion.

as far as cast iron vs cast aluminum, either or. The bearings will fail a few times over before you'd need to worry about cylinder wear of either model.

 

[AJ1978]

Skin,
It's amazing how much racket these machines make and heat, I mean it blows my mind. There are some great deals on craigslist if you know what your looking for. Thats how I have found several units for myself and friends.

 

[HemiRambler]

I bought a barely used 5 hp Industrial compressor for 200 bucks - only catch was it 3 phase - I could have made a converter but instead bought another motor. New it was right around 2K.

So I so go used!!!! Harder to find a really good one, but the savings can be huge!!!

 

[NUTTSGT]

You did notice that the ad states, "limited to existing inventory, no rain checks"

You may be to late.

 

[jayoldschool]

Here is the thread that I started on this compressor deal a few days ago in the tool section. It has the link to the manufacturer site. I didn't get much response, either...

 

[Gary S]

At 11cfm, it is about a 3hp compressor. Use that number to compare to other 3hp compressors. The 60 gallon tank isn't something you use in comparing compressors.
A 100hp car with a 60 gallon gas tank won't perform any better than a 100hp car with a 20 gallon gas tank. Air compressors are the same.

 

[Professur]

One thing to watch for on cheap compressors. The motors on chinese built are frequently rated according to electrical consumption, not power output. I've got a cheap portable model that claims 3hp, but doesn't match the output of an american rated 1.3hp. When you do the conversion from HP to Watts you can catch them at it.

 

[wineslob]

Aluminum heads? Stay away. They warp.


Oh I'll put this up again:

1 HP single phase is roughly 16 amps @ 120V. At 220V just cut the amperage required in half.
2 HP is 24@ 120 and 12 @ 220V

Also, at "6.5 HP" (dubious at best) you will need at least a 30A 220V circuit. Check the motor plate, see if it's being "fudged".