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Compressor piping

smalltown

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Jul 9, 2015
Messages
985
Location
Western Maine
While waiting for my last electrical part to arrive (it's in the mail) I began thinking about just how to plumb the compressor.

I have been gorging myself on the numerous threads here, but have a few of what what I hope are easy question for somebody to answer.

I had originally thought black iron pipe was the way to go.

A close friend came over, and suggested galvanized pipe instead. I said that I had heard the galvanized pipe can have flaking inside.

Secondly he suggested schedule 40 PVC pipe was the way to go ! I replied that I had read that PVC pipe even schedule 40 could rupture, and spray plastic shards everywhere.

It got me thinking about the black iron pipe. Is that coated on the inside if not won't it have issues with rust?

Lastly I need only two air sources the first a hose reel at the front between my garage doors, and a second at the rear near a future work bench.

My compressor is located in the front corner of my garage. I am thinking of going vertical ~10' to the ceiling across the ceiling to a tee ~18', then ~3' to the reel, and ~29' to the rear of the garage then down. I mentioned that I was worried about the possibility of water in the pipe. I mentioned those DIY zig zag pipe arrangements (radiator) that I have seen posted on here. His thought was that it was overkill seeing that my small compressor ~3.5 HP would not generate much heat to begin with. Furthermore if I did construct a zig zag wouldn't that dictate that I would need to run all copper pipe in my system?

If you think water is not an issue what about those plastic kits ?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023http:// or even that newer aluminum tubing I have read about ?

Meanwhile I keep reading posts. Yes honey I'll be right up knowing I only have 17 more pages of posts to read :eyecrazy:
 
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lakeroadster

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Jan 19, 2015
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5,166
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Central Colorado
The tank of your compressor is steel. It isn't galvanized and it will rust on the inside... just like the black iron pipe will rust.

That's why you buy an inline filter separator, and why you blow down the lines at the end of each days use.

:thumbup:
 

md21722

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Nov 30, 2015
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1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
I would ignore your close friend's advice. Black iron will rust and as stated, that's why you use a filter. A 3.5 HP single stage spinning at 1000 RPM will generate heat. If you measured your outlet as it enters the tank its probably 220F or more.

Use a flexible hose to a vertical rizer that has a drip leg. And angle your horiztonal runs so condensate will run back towards the compressor drip leg. Install drip legs at every drop as well. Use unions where appropriate. You can secure it to the wall with Unistrut. Drain your tank regularly.

You could get into automation with automatic drains and what not, but in a small system I think its overkill unless you like the science of it all. Its too easy to open the drip legs and tank drain in a small system...

Be sure to run at least 1/2" pipe.

I like going to my local plumbing supply for stuff like this since they sell U.S.A. made Ward fittings and are usually on par or cheaper than Home Depot or Lowe's. And everything is in stock. No hunting through bins for stuff or going to multiple stores.

Done.
 
Last edited:

bugdust

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Dec 2, 2008
Messages
580
Location
Middleburg, FL
I used galvanized and have had no issues for 9 years now. I have drains and filters. All of my "drops" come off the top of the pipe.

I would try the flexible plastic if I built another shop.
 

southalabama

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Jan 10, 2011
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5,528
Location
Brewton AL
I wouldn't listen to anyone who suggested pvc.

Dad used copper.

Several of the auto body shops here use galvanized and have used it for years. They have plenty of drop legs and filters in the system.

Black iron in my area rusts badly. Even black iron pipe clamps rust and they don't have condensation and heated air going through them.
 

94EG8

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Joined
Apr 5, 2015
Messages
248
Black iron rusts. Galvanized is ok and aluminum is really nice. We have some of all 3 at work. Aluminum is far, far nicer to work with. Both in the initial installation and for future modifications. One person can work with it easily and quickly, even with long lengths. When I plumbed my garage that's what I went with.
 
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mike528

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Dec 20, 2014
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503
Location
Shelby county Ohio
I'm going to experiment with copper and press connect fittings. Press connect fittings from menards are rated at 200psi so I will probably put a blowoff valve on it in case it gets too high due to heat. If they don't hold up I can just go back in and sweat the joints.
 

fj5gtx

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Oct 26, 2009
Messages
50
I have followed Sharpe's direction as shown on the link below, using 3/4 black pipe for the mains. I used to paint (hvlp guns) alot, never had air quality/delivery problems. Built my first system in the 90s. When I moved, I took the all the black pipe with me (had a couple 20ft runs) and reassembled with some changes to fit the new garage. I have also used braided hose between the compressor and piping to remove any vibration. I have a pressure blaster and a blast cabinet, both with the largest nozzles - I don't have any moisture problems at all.

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout
 

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smalltown

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Jul 9, 2015
Messages
985
Location
Western Maine
Wanted to add that I finally received, and installed my new safety disconnect switch. I still haven't decided on the piping, but at least I was able to power up the compressor, and per the manufacturer let it run for 20 minutes to break it in. I'm getting there inch by inch !
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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Location
oregon
Ok, I don't have anything more to add to this thread, but I really like Ironhorse74's signature quote.

Just what we need, a bunch of primary school kids with two cans of beer smeared with peanut butter and jam between them in their lunch bag.

lg
no neat sigline
 
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