Compressor plumbing & aftercooler questions

[jacobm3]

Hi,

My new compressor just arrived and I'm trying to plan a good aftercooler and water separator system for it. The main use will be plasma cutting.

This is my first big compressor and I'm trying to figure out how all the parts work, especially around the check valve(s) and unloader valve.

It is a Quincy Q13160VQ:
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-Q13160VQ-Air-Compressor/p12330.html

I ordered an automotive transmission oil cooler to use as an aftercooler, but the inlets are quite a bit smaller than the 1/2" NPT outlet on the tank (maybe 5/16"), so I'm hesitant to use it in case it restricts airflow too much. Are there any other options like this that have 1/2" fittings and don't cost >$300?

Here's a picture showing the main plumbing from the pump to the receiver:

Here's the bottom end of the big copper tube going into the receiver:

From what I read, I believe the check valve as located inside the tank under that assembly and the skinny tube going off to the side is used to unload pressure from the pump once it shuts off.

I'd like to keep pressure in whatever aftercooler system I go with so the pump doesn't have to work to refill it every time, especially if I go the black pipe route since it will take a long time to fill/drain all that air space vs. just the normal hissing you get at the end of a cycle unloading the pump.

Would I need to add another check valve between the pump and aftercooler and put the unloader line between the pump and the new check valve in order to keep the aftercooler lines pressurized?

I'm thinking it would go like this:

pump > T-fitting feeding:
1. unloader line going to pressure switch
2. check valve > aftercooler > existing check valve entry to receiver with the old unloader line clamped off.

Does that make sense or is there a better way to do this?

Also, what's the little tower with the red circle on top? It looks like it has a small hole drilled near the top.

Thanks!
Jacob

 

[jacobm3]

Just found what looks like a decent option for a 1/2" cooler:

B&M 70274 SuperCooler Black Aluminum Fluid Cooler
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIIE12/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thoughts?

 

[theknurl]

Jacob;
look into automotive A/C evaporator pressure ratings.......they have larger fittings

 

[sberry]

Thoughts?

I will catch a little hell for this but as you said, its your first comp. Someone went to great trouble to design, build and sell it to you all ready to go and the first thing one does is screw with it. All built with instructions that says,,, hook wire here and hose there.

 

[sberry]

Just found what looks like a decent option for a 1/2" cooler:

B&M 70274 SuperCooler Black Aluminum Fluid Cooler
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIIE12/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thoughts?

Does the company that made this comp offer an aftermarket part for it? Is it in the instructions anywhwere,,, before you even use this start ordering everything you can think of or every half *** idea you have read and cobble it on?

 

[sberry]

Here is why I say this. Its one of the big truths that are just becoming self evident at my age, it may have been more obvious if I had more academic engineering education to find out I wasn't so smart a lot sooner.
I may have learned some of the principles a lot sooner vs learning them backwards thru experience.

 

[sberry]

I just spent a week on a gearbox with 20 moving parts and hopefully I will get it put together right this morning after a half a dozen tries. Some of it my fault, its rather basic, I have a parts but not service manual and some instructions and I can manage to fuk it up several times and am not willing to leave as is even though it would likely work and maybe even for my duration but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, it got worked on since it left the factory and hasn't been right since.

 

[sberry]

You bought a brand spanky new machine so you didn't have problems and its as good as it is going to get. Wait till its off warranty, try it, work some bugs out in the end user part which is the most important and you have enuf there to occupy your mind without getting in between all the design where you don't even know the oil filler and vent from a connecting rod.
This is a unit they made a long time and has been fiddled with by engineering to get the most reliable with safety and code factors all built in to it. I work on a lot of stuff other people work on, it worked a long time before they came along and decided it really want right and could be better and now wonder wtf,,, after all they just worked on it. I usually try to backtrack from there.

 

[scw1991]

my first concern is purchasing a transmission oil cooler for use as an aftercooler. What is the MAWP of this oil cooler? For your sake, I hope it's rated at more than the maximum output pressure of the tank.

Unless this compressor plans on running continuous, I would not see the need to install an aftercooler.

If you plumb your air lines correctly, this should be sufficient in removing excess moisture.

 

[sberry]

This unit will probably make close to 2x the demands of a plasma. Start with a service ball valve to a hose to a chunk of 1/2 pipe for a general manifold to a convenient location, add a regulator and a filter, after the regulator a T with a chunk of hose going to the plasma and another one going to a reel for other general work.
I added a little last resort filter at the machine, have a similar one leads in to my paint booth hose.

 

[jacobm3]

I will catch a little hell for this but as you said, its your first comp. Someone went to great trouble to design, build and sell it to you all ready to go and the first thing one does is screw with it. All built with instructions that says,,, hook wire here and hose there.

You're suggesting a stock compressor will produce air that's dry enough for plasma cutting?

Perhaps I should have mentioned I live in Houston where the humidity floats around 80%.

 

[sberry]

I have been using a stock comp for paint and plasma for 3 decades. Houston is a little more sensitive maybe but give it a try. We managed to do it before the internet. The main mod I would be tempted to make is a pipr ****** as long as is convenient to a ball valve with a hose plumbed out the wall so when you read a thread about someone fukking with an auto drain it reminds you to walk over and kick the valve with your toe for a few seconds on occasion to blow the water out, look at the unit, listen for a leak and be on your way.

 

[Gotcha640]

We have a Miller plasma cutter that looks a lot like the one in sberrys pic (blue, maybe 30 inches long, 18 high, 10 wide, heavy but portable). It's in storage or I'd get the model number.

We ran it off an 80gal Ingersoll Rand from a big box store. No special intercooler, no extra dryer. It did have a water trap, but that came with the compressor.

This was strictly hobbyist, but we cut up a few car frames, and made some jeep skid plates. Biggest days were probably 3 hours total cutting over a 12 hour period.

 

[sberry]

The number 1 deal s to listen, I have had my main since 72, I am familiar without even trying about the sound. We replaced motor bearings before failure a while back, 20 yrs ago fixed a rod knock and recently replaced a cap which tripped the breaker.
I boogered one drain, have replaced it with a bottom and a ball valve and replaced the outlet service valve, other than that stock.
As it is the most likely first service yours will need is belt tension. Run it a while to let it polish up, a year or so and zip a qt of that Amsoil comp oil in it and forget it.