Compressor Plumbing

[Lucid Moments]

So I bought my compressor and am now looking to get it plumbed. I am almost certainly going to go with some variety of system from RapidAir, or maybe PVC (sorry just had to throw that in there).

The building is 50' X 60' with the compressor located on one of the 50' walls about 8' off the corner. So to get it to where I want it I have to go the rest of the 42' down that wall, all the way across 60' (with at least one drop) and part way up the other 50' wall. I haven't ruled out doing a complete loop but I don't really believe that is necessary.

RapidAir's planning system wants me to go with 3/4" main line. How important is that, and if I do choose to go with 3/4" main how do I get a flexible line from the compressor to the start of my "hard" mounted line?

Compressor is Husky 60 gallon 3.7HP (advertised and I know what that means) 11.5cfm at 90psi.

 

[nadogail]

If you want a lot of opinions; just mention Schedule 40 PVC pipe, I can guarantee you will see a lot of responses.

Some of them will shock you with their vociferous objections.

Personally, I would prefer metal pipe with condensate traps and drain legs.

Actually I am using a tee coming off the compressor with a long hose to a distant corner (tucked into the rafters) and all that give me two locations to connect tools to.

I have a noisy 20 gallon oil free Devilbiss with a ?15 amp motor.

 

[engineer2]

I would go with a 3/4" perimeter loop near the ceiling with 1/2" drops where you need them.

 

[sberry]

With 3/4 in this scale you don't need a loop. Why fart with 1/2 drops, use the 3/4 all the way and save fitting types. Loops are good in some factory with continuous air beyond but simple is good here, let's it drive any condensate to the end.

 

[matt_i]

RapidAir's planning system wants me to go with 3/4" main line. How important is that, and if I do choose to go with 3/4" main how do I get a flexible line from the compressor to the start of my "hard" mounted line?

Eventually there has to be a Rapidair adapter from the blue pipe to an NPT fitting, either male or female, from there you can use a hydraulic line. My preference would be to use something like a Parker FTX-S machined adapter fitting from NPT-M to JIC-M, (probably a 3/4 NPT to #12 JIC) then your hydraulic "flex" hose can be made up with equivalent JIC-F swivel fittings on both ends. It makes the hose much easier to install and the JIC is a hydraulic-rated fitting.

 

[NeubCont]

FYI
There is a great thread on the Rapidair system on GJ (search Rapidair)
I am currently purchasing the needed items and will be installing shortly.
I learned a lot from it and would probably help you as well.
I am watching your thread as well.

 

[Nlped]

I did rapidair in my 40’x50’x12’ shop. I did 3/4” down 3 walls with five 3/4” drops, each with 2 quick connections...3 of them have 1/2”x50’ hose reels for air tools. My compressor is 60 gal and 6.5 hp with a beefy V-twin pump. I did a 3/4” s/s flex line from the compressor shutoff valve to the “dryer”. I have a home-brew cast iron pipe “dryer” setup that seems to do a wonderful job keep moisture out of my lines. The RapidAir stuff is very nice!


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[Kaizen]

With that size compressor I would NOT do 3/4 inch pipe. It would be great for flow for about ten minutes but then the compressor will have to get back up to pressure and all that tube is just more space it has to fill.
If you think you want to future proof it then fine. Do you have a 3/4 bung on that tank? Tractor supply has hydro hoses you can use for tank to regulator.

I have a 7.5 hp unit so went with rapid air kit. They also have a 3/4 hose and a 3/4 regulator for decent price. Someday I will have power and hear it run lol


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[Bretny]

I have about the same compressor and went 3/4 black pipe. Home depot can cut and thread any length you want. I have a home brew copper dryer before the tank.

 

[Lucid Moments]

FYI
There is a great thread on the Rapidair system on GJ (search Rapidair)
I am currently purchasing the needed items and will be installing shortly.
I learned a lot from it and would probably help you as well.
I am watching your thread as well.

I have seen the thread I think you mean. I priced out what they suggest and it is a little pricey. I am going to investigate other options.

 

[Lucid Moments]

With that size compressor I would NOT do 3/4 inch pipe. It would be great for flow for about ten minutes but then the compressor will have to get back up to pressure and all that tube is just more space it has to fill.
If you think you want to future proof it then fine. Do you have a 3/4 bung on that tank? Tractor supply has hydro hoses you can use for tank to regulator.

I have a 7.5 hp unit so went with rapid air kit. They also have a 3/4 hose and a 3/4 regulator for decent price. Someday I will have power and hear it run lol


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It does nave a 3/4" bung on the tank, and I will be checking Tractor Supply for the hose, thanks for that info.

 

[NeubCont]

Will send you a PM

 

[Falcon67]

With that bitty compressor, agree - 1/2" pipe run, 3/4 hose from TSC from tank to line plant. Put in a couple of more drops than you think, you'll find a need.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I have seen the thread I think you mean. I priced out what they suggest and it is a little pricey. I am going to investigate other options.

Even if you don't use their product, they have some good information in their tech section that generally applies to any piping system.

 

[dagofast]

I did the air lines in my shop about a year ago and looked at the RapidAir system. Extra tubing is reasonable enough and the kits seemed to be reasonably priced. The problem for me was if you needed some extra fittings. Dang some of those were expensive! I ended up sticking with what I know works (and what I know how to work with; have torch, will solder) and put in ¾" type L copper. The 10' sticks are a bit expensive these days but the fittings are still dirt cheap compared to other air systems. Zero leaks & zero regrets.

 

[brownbagg]

get a HF reel and 100 ft of hose

 

[HotrodHR]

I used copper pipes and Sharkbite fittings. These are push to connect and work great... no soldering.

https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push

 

[Lucid Moments]

I was going on the price that was quoted from RapidAir's draw your system. That way was going to be about $1,100.00 and I didn't see doing that. NeubCont let me know that Northern has their 3/4" Master Line system on sale and after looking at that I have ordered one and I guess we will see what we will see. Northern doesn't have it locally so it will take a week or so to come in. I did pick up the hydraulic line from Tractor Supply and some Black Steel fittings (3/4" ******, ball valve etc) and thread sealant so I can get the compressor in use until I get time to put the Rapid Air up.

 

[Citation]

I haven't done it but a number of posters have talked about using PEX. It seems like a good, cost effective option.

LM, what tools are you planning on running? I don't see a problem with running 3/4" but I assume you will be the sole user vs multiple people drawing at the same time. I would think just a few 1/2 ID runs of pex or Rapid Air would be sufficient and hoses after that.

 

[Lucid Moments]

It will certainly be usually only me, running impact wrenches and cut off tools mostly. I do plan on getting a plasma cutter eventually too. The plan for a plasma cutter is the only reason I didn't go with an even smaller compressor.

 

[Bretny]

Even if your plasma has a dryer it still needs very dry air. I would put that at the end of the line.

 

[JPinSTL]

I too went with copper last Summer. I did 3/4 along the front half thinking I might eventually need to sandblast something. I transitioned to 1/2 to complete the loop. T up for the 1/2in drops to another T with a drop ear elbow and a dirt leg. Ball valves all over the place. I'm VERY HAPPY with the results.

I even cheaped out and used TypeM, the thin stuff, as 1/2in is rated at 420psi, and 3/4in at 346psi working pressures more than twice what my compressor outputs. I used Harris 95/5 solder which is rated at 200psi @ 250º.

My plasma is on the opposite side of the shop from the compressor. I was previously running from a rubber hose across the floor. I'm here in HUMID mid MO and my consumable life has improved 1000% or more. If you count the loop there is over 100ft of copper between the compressor and plasma. I never see any water in the regulator/seperator now.

 

[cupcakemike]

Your plasma isnt going to use a whole lot of air (volume wise), what it does use is at pretty low pressure (usually 40 psi or so) so I wouldn't step up to 3/4 just for that reason...

 

[Kaizen]

It does nave a 3/4" bung on the tank, and I will be checking Tractor Supply for the hose, thanks for that info.

Just FYI I had that compressor and my three inch cut off wheel worked for about ten minutes. It will work but be prepared to be patient while it gets up to pressure. I ran black pipe to get moisture out. It was so bad in winter it would freeze the tools.


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[Lucid Moments]

Just FYI I had that compressor and my three inch cut off wheel worked for about ten minutes. It will work but be prepared to be patient while it gets up to pressure. I ran black pipe to get moisture out. It was so bad in winter it would freeze the tools.


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Thanks for the heads up on the cut off tool issue. I wonder why that is. I don't have a pneumatic cut off tool yet, this will be the first compressor I have had that is capable of running them, but just looking at Astro Tools website they list their 3" in line cutoff tool's air consumption as 4 cfm. With the compressor capable of 11.5 cfm that shouldn't be a problem. Honestly for most of what I do 10 minutes should be fine, and for the rare occasion it isn't then I will just be patient, but it still makes me wonder.

And Winter is less of a problem down here than it is up where you live.

 

[Citation]

Thanks for the heads up on the cut off tool issue. I wonder why that is. I don't have a pneumatic cut off tool yet, this will be the first compressor I have had that is capable of running them, but just looking at Astro Tools website they list their 3" in line cutoff tool's air consumption as 4 cfm. With the compressor capable of 11.5 cfm that shouldn't be a problem. Honestly for most of what I do 10 minutes should be fine, and for the rare occasion it isn't then I will just be patient, but it still makes me wonder.

And Winter is less of a problem down here than it is up where you live.

Keep in mind the rating on most tools is average duty cycle, not continuous draw. My cutoff wheel would take my 20 gallon tank from ~130 to perhaps 100 in about 6 or 7 seconds. But don't worry too much. My brother has franken-pressor. It's a 10CFM pump on an 80 gallon tank. It runs up to ~140-145 psi. We had no issues cutting some bolts the other week even though it was quite a bit of steady running with his cutoff wheel. The compressor certainly cycled but it never lacked for sufficient air. Your compressor has a bit more flow, a bit less tank so it would likely be fine unless you are really running non-stop.

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks for the heads up on the cut off tool issue. I wonder why that is. I don't have a pneumatic cut off tool yet, this will be the first compressor I have had that is capable of running them, but just looking at Astro Tools website they list their 3" in line cutoff tool's air consumption as 4 cfm. With the compressor capable of 11.5 cfm that shouldn't be a problem. Honestly for most of what I do 10 minutes should be fine, and for the rare occasion it isn't then I will just be patient, but it still makes me wonder.

And Winter is less of a problem down here than it is up where you live.

I mistakenly thought I had a big and bad compressor so didnt bother looking at what they took for cfm. got all IR stuff. I have had a DA sander for ten years and not enough air to use it. lol. Good you are looking at that. Don't get me wrong. Its a good unit. I ran mine for hours at a time doing bodywork and just sold it for a couple hundred bucks. After i got the air dry i even used a pressure pot sandblaster to blast a car frame. I was trashed by the end as i'd sip beer waiting for it to get up to pressure.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Keep in mind the rating on most tools is average duty cycle, not continuous draw.

There is the part I was missing. Damn marketers doing **** like that to **** with me.

 

[Showkey]

There is the part I was missing. Damn marketers doing **** like that to **** with me.

Even after the class actions the marketers are still playing games with the numbers.
AVE has demo on compressor cfm thing:

 

[Augus7us]

Are you running this in the walls or on them?

 

[Lucid Moments]

Are you running this in the walls or on them?

On the walls.

All my electrical is surface mounted conduit too. This will be my first (and hopefully last) shop. I've been thinking about it for a long time so I have a pretty good idea how I want things, but until I actually work with it I won't know for sure. Putting it on the walls makes changing things much easier.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Even after the class actions the marketers are still playing games with the numbers.
AVE has demo on compressor cfm thing:

**** Me that is some horseshit. I wish I could say I didn't believe it. Or even that I am surprised. But I can't and I'm not. I wish I had seen this before I had bought my compressor, but I am not sure it would have made a whole lot of difference. I'm not sure I would be willing to afford to buy a "good" compressor.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Pex or pex-alu-pex.

It's not gonna blow up and kill your whole family like some would have you think.

 

[Kaizen]

**** Me that is some horseshit. I wish I could say I didn't believe it. Or even that I am surprised. But I can't and I'm not. I wish I had seen this before I had bought my compressor, but I am not sure it would have made a whole lot of difference. I'm not sure I would be willing to afford to buy a "good" compressor.

I started with that and managed. Spent quite a bit more on my new compressor to replace that one. This one will be my last one in my life. Everything gets more complicated though. Just moving it was a challenge. Electric will **** up half my subpanel when running. Etc etc. you will manage ok. But the 3/4 line won’t help


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[Citation]

Even after the class actions the marketers are still playing games with the numbers.
AVE has demo on compressor cfm thing:

I've got to wonder about the method there.
If I recall, he was having restricted flow when running of the tank, not the pump. The tank can generally flow a lot more than the pump so it seems unlikely the burst flow rate was less than the rated fill rate.

Based on a rough calculation I've found the stated fill rates to be reasonable for the compressors I've checked. The method is to calculate the uncompressed volume of air in the tank then estimate how long it would take to move that much air at the stated flow rate.

I've had good luck with this method. Generally the actual fill times and the calculation are close. This isn't like the misleading hp numbers.

 

[sberry]

Its not average flow but industrial averaging based normally on 100 units for sizing comps.

 

[sberry]

It's like the breakers in a panel under a 200 main. The average is a demand factor. Out of 100 air tools only 25 or 30% of them are ever running at the same time. In some cases it is as low as 21-23% for electric.
Air,, let's say 1 grinder takes 5 hp, 7 1/2 might supply 2 men workin body work, 10 3 or even 4. , 25 hp 25 or even more depending on process.
In a home.garage may need comp and pipe for 1 man and even 2 for short duration on the same pipe isn't a factor,, so what if the sander drops 100/200 rpm or a guy waits a minute till his bud is done or most of the time air is limited.by the comp and not the pipe.
I have used lots of ts for adding tools from the same hose. I have added another port to the regulator for 2. The little in line.reg.was used.for long runs where we transport hi pressure with small hose, regulate at the end for tools or paint guns.

 

[nikerret]

Here’s mine:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313214

I also made a crappy YouTube video of my setup:

 

[sberry]

As mentioned above the avg cfm rating, the actual is not the inflated HP numbers of old.

 

[fitter30]

Pvc is not rated for air it can kill when it explodes. Wouldn't use any type of plastic or shark bite fittings for air.