Compressor Plumbing

[mikehaugen]

Using bigger line is not going to work your compressor any harder, it may take longer to fill but it just effectively increases your tank size so will also not drop psi as much. If you are the type to only start your compressor when you need it and your system isn't very tight it may be an issue. I hardly ever turn off my compressor and I don't recall it ever cycling when I wasn't using it... I'd be surprised if it happened once a week when not in use. A small price I'm willing to pay for not having to wait for air every time I want to use it. You could also just install a ball valve between tank and lines and shut that off if it makes you feel better. (May be a good idea in case a line ruptures when you aren't around).

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[Lucid Moments]

Pvc is not rated for air it can kill when it explodes. Wouldn't use any type of plastic or shark bite fittings for air.

I'm not using PVC, my reference to that in the original post was meant to be taken as a joke. I'm using a little black iron, but mostly RapidAir's 3/4" Max Line.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Using bigger line is not going to work your compressor any harder, it may take longer to fill but it just effectively increases your tank size so will also not drop psi as much. If you are the type to only start your compressor when you need it and your system isn't very tight it may be an issue. I hardly ever turn off my compressor and I don't recall it ever cycling when I wasn't using it... I'd be surprised if it happened once a week when not in use. A small price I'm willing to pay for not having to wait for air every time I want to use it. You could also just install a ball valve between tank and lines and shut that off if it makes you feel better. (May be a good idea in case a line ruptures when you aren't around).

I know the larger line won't help at all. But the bung in the compressor was 3/4" and it is some future proofing. I'll run it once and it should be enough for any conceivable use I will have for it in the future.

 

[mikehaugen]

I know the larger line won't help at all. But the bung in the compressor was 3/4" and it is some future proofing. I'll run it once and it should be enough for any conceivable use I will have for it in the future.

I wasn't in anyway trying to talk you out of 3/4, just the opposite in fact. It is what I would use probably. My response was to a post or 2 trying to tell you not to use it because your compressor wasn't big enough for it.

Btw, are you 100% sure your bung is 3/4? I have I think the same compressor and off the top of my head I thought it was 1".

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[Lucid Moments]

I wasn't in anyway trying to talk you out of 3/4, just the opposite in fact. It is what I would use probably. My response was to a post or 2 trying to tell you not to use it because your compressor wasn't big enough for it.

Btw, are you 100% sure your bung is 3/4? I have I think the same compressor and off the top of my head I thought it was 1".

Yep absolutely sure it is 3/4. Started running some of the black iron yesterday.

 

[sberry]

A plus for 3/4 is it doesn't hurt those who put gobs of turns and fittings in. The pipe is large enough that there is almost no loss in these typical installs with all the common tools. This will handle inch air gun at modest distance.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

I too went with copper last Summer. I did 3/4 along the front half thinking I might eventually need to sandblast something. I transitioned to 1/2 to complete the loop. T up for the 1/2in drops to another T with a drop ear elbow and a dirt leg. Ball valves all over the place. I'm VERY HAPPY with the results.

I even cheaped out and used TypeM, the thin stuff, as 1/2in is rated at 420psi, and 3/4in at 346psi working pressures more than twice what my compressor outputs. I used Harris 95/5 solder which is rated at 200psi @ 250º.

My plasma is on the opposite side of the shop from the compressor. I was previously running from a rubber hose across the floor. I'm here in HUMID mid MO and my consumable life has improved 1000% or more. If you count the loop there is over 100ft of copper between the compressor and plasma. I never see any water in the regulator/seperator now.

Looking at the price of copper vs the rapid air I may do this as the fitting cost is a ton less using supply house. (3/4 elbows are less than 1$) do you have any pics of your setup? I do like the look of the blue line though, but maybe ill have to polish the copper so it looks good.

 

[mikehaugen]

Yep absolutely sure it is 3/4. Started running some of the black iron yesterday.

I see that now, I just checked. Although... it is bushed down from I believe 2" so I guess one could make it any size they wanted.

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[Lucid Moments]

I see that now, I just checked. Although... it is bushed down from I believe 2" so I guess one could make it any size they wanted.

Yes it is bushed down from 2" so you could certainly get a new bushing. I suspect they are available for almost any size.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Looking at the price of copper vs the rapid air I may do this as the fitting cost is a ton less using supply house. (3/4 elbows are less than 1$) do you have any pics of your setup? I do like the look of the blue line though, but maybe ill have to polish the copper so it looks good.

I'm going with RapidAir because I have no experience brazing. I'm sure I could learn, but it just isn't a skill I feel the need for. The RapidAir should go up quick and easy. And if I end up paying a little more, well, you pay for convenience sometimes.

 

[sberry]

I wish I had got a couple 100 ft 3/4 Rapids for runs in the ceiling, no splices but this is the manifold I built on the floor. This section goes on the wall.

 

[akdiesel]

You could also just install a ball valve between tank and lines and shut that off if it makes you feel better. (May be a good idea in case a line ruptures when you aren't around).

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I would like to second this option or to shut off the air compressor.
I had left for a short vacation (5 days) and came back and went into the shop to find a haze in the area and my 7.5 hp 80 gallon Curtis air compressor running. Unsure as to when it happened but I had forgot to disconnect one of those coil pvc lines and it had come apart. I had left my compressor on and the main valve open.
I now turn my air compressor off every night. My system holds pressure fine. No loos in pressure over 2 nights at least but now if a line ruptures I don't have a runaway compressor.
The compressor, surprisingly worked fine and is still alive. The haze was actually hot air with moisture from the compressor running for so long. The oil level was fine.

 

[Lucid Moments]

I already did put a ball valve almost immediately out of the compressor. I will probably keep the valve closed unless I am using the air, but even if I were to leave it open all the time it just makes sense to me to have one there.

 

[sberry]

It should be the first fitting out, before any rubber.

 

[Lucid Moments]

It should be the first fitting out, before any rubber.

I had to use a ****** to connect it to the tank, but other than that it is the first fitting.

 

[sberry]

Yes, that makes it disconnect the complete system. In many shops its the only valve needed.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Yes, that makes it disconnect the complete system. In many shops its the only valve needed.

I am also probably going to put in one more valve. The lines are going to go overhead along the walls past what I have in already, and thus will be slightly awkward to reach. So one more valve to isolate the hard to reach section so if there is a leak I can still have air.

 

[ZRX61]

For the flex line from the tank to the lines around the shop I used that clear plastic tubing with the nylon braid in it. Attached with hose clamps. 20+ years on the same piece of tube & only had to tighten the hose clamps 4 or 5 times.