compressor problem

[NASTYZEN]

I have an RK Machinery 80 gallon compressor that started knocking.....
I suspect connecting rod bearings from the play when I rock the fly wheel back and forth.
Anyone ever made the repairs? What other things should I be looking at while I'm at it.
I see there are access plates on sides of the crankcase. I hope it can be fixed in place as it's a really tight space to work on. Sort of in a closet.

Any advice would be welcome.

 

[Strouty]

Have you found a parts list or pump breakdown yet? I am no help as far as actual replacement goes, I am just interested. I may have some compressor work to do myself. I just got a compressor that was semi disassembled and now I need to figure out what needs to be done to make it work.

What is the model number and vintage of the compressor?

 

[kams1973]

Be sure to check the wrist pin bushings/bearings as well.

 

[koditten]

Make sure you check the key in the flywheel/main pulley. My old quincy did that. Tightened up the set screw and no more knocking.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Just re-checked the play using a flash light this time and the fly wheel is real nice and tight on the crank shaft..unfortunately..
I found the parts list and blow up of the compressor though.
I'm going to contact them today to see what can be done.

 

[sberry]

On occasion the writ pin on the high pressure side fails,,, other than that tear it apart.

 

[b-body-bob]

Just re-checked the play using a flash light this time and the fly wheel is real nice and tight on the crank shaft..unfortunately..
I found the parts list and blow up of the compressor though.
I'm going to contact them today to see what can be done.

The exploded view shows the crank uses tapered bearings, so it could just be that causing the end play.

Since it's a tapered bearing system, be sure to figure out how to set the preload before you put it back together.

My Champion had one thick gasket that is used to preload the bearing, and the gasket kit came with that one in multiple thicknesses. So I mic'ed the original, and replaced it with the same from the kit. I had to stack two to get what I needed.

 

[NASTYZEN]

I'm not getting end play, I'm getting play in the rotational direction.
The only thing that could cause that would be wrist pin or connecting rod wear. No?

 

[b-body-bob]

OK, sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

[sberry]

Is that rod serviceable from the bottom? I had a couple of them apart but its wayyy back when and I remember replacing one rod insert or something and I ringed it while I had it apart, don't know if it needed it or not, I remember out of the blue it didn't sound right.
Mine started sounding funny earlier this year, sure as shate it needed motor brgs which was fine by me. I had to source a queer brg but scored it at the right price in the end at the wholesale house.
I like the quiet compressor but doesn't mean I don't want to hear it.
I had mine off about a day and flipped the back up on and used it a cycle or 2. I took the motor off and did it on the bench, I can do a lot of work in place but its a one off job and sometimes bite the bullet and take it out, refresh any mounting bolts and inspect etc, change out the belts if they have never been replaced. I put a new set on at 20 yrs and they still ook great after 20 more when we did the motor. I put 15$ in the whole service/repair.

 

[sberry]

I might plumb air in, I had it a long time, its not bad, could send some intake sound out and see how much it helped. I have since redone this with panels, its a bit louder and I could add 1 for a bit more but its not like a slap when it comes on and its in our bench area. Doesn't run a lot either but doesn't drive anyone crazy or to complaint. I can just hear it in my office if nothing else is running. It, the green one under cover sits next to a big steel column so I stuck a foam panel in there so the sound wasn't slapping a main piece of steel.
There has since had drains and we use all the tanks but have the breaker off to the blue upright. Its an old clunker and works fine for backup and hi demand, adds to sandblast punch and allows the small one to do the work.
This is one of the questions in another thread,,, was my comp big enough to run the tire machine, and Indy did a good job with that. At one point I went thru a curve demand was a little higher and I didn't want to be pinned to a single unit and I like the 3 hp on the electric service.
I grind 4 1/2 with electric but have painted lots of cars/trucks with the 3,,, one manager operator can do it but when the reason we got a second guy is to sand then the demand goes over the top a little or have to wait 50% even with small tip to blast but the other 99.5% it keeps 200 gallons up. I can cause number 2 to go on but I don't want to work that hard anyway. we wire wheel or sand for a couple mins that exceed the demand of the primary

 

[sberry]

Ok, back to comp,,, yes, rotational play, pull that sucker apart, if it aint wrecked put insert in. Service the rest at own risk depending on its age and service life. If this is a working unit a head gasket and valve cleaning couldn't hurt, if its got 1000's of hrs a set of rings although you can check with head off by running it and seeming if oil is sliding by. If you aint got it in the tank etc and the hrs not outrageous fix the problem only.
Cheap is ok here if its ok, no real gain to toss money at it.

In fact my blue one I made the head gasket from header paper. It come from a body shop, was plugged and a set of rings wouldn't hurt but it works. Have ran it 15 minutes in a year.

 

[Bob C]

The bottom of the jugs are tapered to facilitate the assembly over the rings.

That unit is designed very closely to Saylor Beall pumps and also very similar to the original Sanborn pumps like the SC-10. Very easy to work on.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Well, spoke to the tech guy and he said it's an easy fix that can be performed on the spot through the side covers. Just have to remove the inter coolers to gain better access.
Ordered the bearings and gaskets as well as new air filters...