My compressor is acting up. It will run fine at initial start-up, but after that when it goes to kick on it just pops the circuit breaker. I searched on "compressor problems" and saw check valves mentioned. I get plenty of pressure at start-up, it just won't reload. Could this be a check valve problem? Anyone experience this before? If I order a new check valve are there any other parts I should consider "while I'm at it"? Its a Sears 1 HP twin cyclinder from the 70's, model 106.152581. Appreciate any input. Thanks.
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Compressor Problem
- Thread starter Rickster
- Start date
Rick,
The check valve wouln't have anything to do with a tripped circuit breaker. Is it an on board breaker or the one in your electric panel? If it's the one in the panel and you're having intermitent tripping problems, I would look at the breaker.
Did it just start doing this one day or has it gradually been getting worse? If gradually getting worse, I would definitely look at replacing the breaker. They can tend to get weak and constant tripping will cause them to get worse, particularly with the high starting current draw from the 1HP motor.
Just my thoughts.
The check valve wouln't have anything to do with a tripped circuit breaker. Is it an on board breaker or the one in your electric panel? If it's the one in the panel and you're having intermitent tripping problems, I would look at the breaker.
Did it just start doing this one day or has it gradually been getting worse? If gradually getting worse, I would definitely look at replacing the breaker. They can tend to get weak and constant tripping will cause them to get worse, particularly with the high starting current draw from the 1HP motor.
Just my thoughts.
I continue to have the same problem from time to time. I haven't tried the fix, but it seems to make sense...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2610
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2610
jim dillon
Member
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2006
- Messages
- 9
I'm having the same problem right now and my compressor had been a good workhorse for many years. I have played with it including changing breakers etc. Had a compressor guy out and then two electricians and they all tried different things including changing the breakers etc. One told me to have the electric motor rebuilt which I did by a reputable firm-no change. Now I am going to install a new compressor motor I bought and will rebuild the old compressor because it was so quiet. What I have been doing to get me by is, I bleed off a bit of air with a die grinder or air nozzle and then it will restart without tripping and it has been getting me thru a few jobs. I know when I least expect it it will finally just go spit but that trick has been working for the last week or so.-Jim
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
MY posts seem to keep vanishing, I replied to this earlier today and it hasn't appeared. At least one other post vanished too. Lets hope this one gets thru.
Most air compressors have a valve connected to a small tube that goes to the head of the compressor, or somewhere between the check valve and the head. Sometimes it even connects right to the side of the check valve. If the relief valve is not opening after shutdown, the next startup of the compressor is againist pressure and that probably overloads it and trips the breaker. Usually this relief valve is opened automatically upon shut down by the pressure switch. I have two compressors and they both work this way.
Do you hear it relieving pressure upon shutdown?????????????
If not, you need to open and lube the pressure switch and possibly remove and clean and lube the relief valve. If it is not relieving automatically upon shutdown, operate the relief valve with your finger tip and then run your air tool till it starts automatically. I'll bet it starts OK then.
This was discussed a couple of months ago. Try reading this thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2610&highlight=compressor+check+valve
I have what is probably very nearly the same compressor, a 106.153542 which is a 1 horse, two cylinder, iron, oil filled, 12 gal tank, 8.1 scfm displacement, 6.4cfm@40psi and 5.4cfm@90psi, with a Dorr 120/240 convertable motor, painted a medium green that was common on Craftsman compressors, jacks, etc. about that time. I bought the compressor about 1972 or '73.
In the thread I linked to above, there are pics of my compressor with my finger pointing out the head pressure relief valve on the side of the pressure switch. If the check valve is leaking, that is easy to prove, just pump the tank up to pressure and then unscrew the large tube that runs from the head down to the manifold, between the gauge and the pressure switch. This tube screws on to the top of the check valve and if it is leaking you can easily detect it. Mine is air tight and will hold pressure for months.
Charles
Most air compressors have a valve connected to a small tube that goes to the head of the compressor, or somewhere between the check valve and the head. Sometimes it even connects right to the side of the check valve. If the relief valve is not opening after shutdown, the next startup of the compressor is againist pressure and that probably overloads it and trips the breaker. Usually this relief valve is opened automatically upon shut down by the pressure switch. I have two compressors and they both work this way.
Do you hear it relieving pressure upon shutdown?????????????
If not, you need to open and lube the pressure switch and possibly remove and clean and lube the relief valve. If it is not relieving automatically upon shutdown, operate the relief valve with your finger tip and then run your air tool till it starts automatically. I'll bet it starts OK then.
This was discussed a couple of months ago. Try reading this thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2610&highlight=compressor+check+valve
I have what is probably very nearly the same compressor, a 106.153542 which is a 1 horse, two cylinder, iron, oil filled, 12 gal tank, 8.1 scfm displacement, 6.4cfm@40psi and 5.4cfm@90psi, with a Dorr 120/240 convertable motor, painted a medium green that was common on Craftsman compressors, jacks, etc. about that time. I bought the compressor about 1972 or '73.
In the thread I linked to above, there are pics of my compressor with my finger pointing out the head pressure relief valve on the side of the pressure switch. If the check valve is leaking, that is easy to prove, just pump the tank up to pressure and then unscrew the large tube that runs from the head down to the manifold, between the gauge and the pressure switch. This tube screws on to the top of the check valve and if it is leaking you can easily detect it. Mine is air tight and will hold pressure for months.
Charles
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