Compressor pump break in procedure

[elcom]

I have an air boss compressor. I think that they were sold by NAPA.
The pump died, so I replaced it with a b2800 (identical) pump.

It's a 115V 2 hp compressor with a large vertical tank.

The question is: do I have to break it in? If so, what is the procedure?

The manual (attached) states that I should let it run without load for "a few minutes" then pump it up.
I did not know this, so I just pumped up the tank.
Should I drain it and let it run without load? change oil?

There seem to be all sorts of opinions out there including running without load for 30 minutes, changing the oil, checking the torque on the head bolts, etc.

 

[The Cobbler]

probably no harn done. but I would run it for 20 or 30 minutes with no load on it anyway.

 

[elcom]

Thanks. Change oil afterwards? Or no need?

 

[The Cobbler]

oil change is cheap & wouldn't hurt .

 

[Rinspeed]

Thanks. Change oil afterwards? Or no need?

I wouldn't bother but it certainly won't hurt.

 

[danielbuck]

I'm not sure that it would matter a whole lot, but running it unloaded and changing the oil certainly can't hurt. It's probably not a bad idea to change and look at the oil on anything that is new, or new to you. never know what you'll find

 

[elcom]

I did not know anything about the break in procedure prior to installing the pump, so I filled it with relatively expensive synthetic fluid ($15+tax from Home Depot) - took 1.5 bottles (so ~$32 - in this case 20% of the pump replacement price ). Therefore, if there is little/no benefit to an oil change, would prefer to avoid. However, if it will affect pump life, then I would do it.

Thank you to everyone for the advice!

 

[Steve_P]

I bought a new Quincy compressor ~20 years ago. It was delivered by the service guy for a "real" Quincy dealer, not someone like Northern Tool, and he had drained the oil prior to loading since it was horizontal in the truck. He said to fill it with oil, run it for a few minutes with the tank valve open, and then you're good to go. So this is what I did. I don't remember the first time I changed the oil, but it was certainly several years old by that point- maybe after 10 years. IIRC, I've only changed the oil twice in 20 years, at most 3X, and it comes out looking like new.

Edit- in the future, you can use SAE 30 non detergent oil, available at Napa, if you don't want to splurge on the synthetic.

 

[elcom]

Thank you! I think that the manual calls for 40 wt oil, but I get your point. No idea whether synthetic offers substantial benefit over semi-synthetic or conventional oil in a compressor pump.

 

[Davefr]

I have an air boss compressor. I think that they were sold by NAPA.
The pump died, so I replaced it with a b2800 (identical) pump.

It's a 115V 2 hp compressor with a large vertical tank.

The question is: do I have to break it in? If so, what is the procedure?

The manual (attached) states that I should let it run without load for "a few minutes" then pump it up.
I did not know this, so I just pumped up the tank.
Should I drain it and let it run without load? change oil?

There seem to be all sorts of opinions out there including running without load for 30 minutes, changing the oil, checking the torque on the head bolts, etc.

I would certainly retorque the head after an hour or so of running. (especially if the pump is aluminum). IME head torque on aluminum pumps is much less forgiving than cast iron but either way checking torque would be a good idea after a little run time.

 

[Walkers]

Running pumps with no head pressure is a recipe for disaster. The pumps rely on head pressure to keep the oil contained in the pump, which is why pumps burn up after underected hose ruptures. You have already run it with pressure, there will be no benefit to emptying it and running it with no pressure.

 

[Jswain]

Most people would advise against synthetic for break in as it can prevent the rings from seating.

Break it in wrong and perhaps it consumes oil, puts oil in the air etc.

Drain the synthetic into a clean container and save it, break in the pump with some cheap conventional and after at least a few hours of use then swap back. If you want to change oil right after the break in(not a bad idea either) then use conventional again for the first.

 

[elcom]

I had heard cautions against using synthetic oil for engine break in (e.g., cars). The concept of breaking in an air pump is new to me - not arguing against it, just noting that I am not familiar; hence this thread that seems to reflect a wide range of opinions.

1) Is the concern with using synthetic oil is that it is "slipperier" than conventional and therefore prevents break in? If so, then shouldn't it just delay break in (i.e., instead of seating within say 15 minutes, it will take 30 minutes) not prevent it?

2) If the synthetic oil prevents (as opposed to delays) break in, shouldn't switching to conventional oil resolve the problem? Why would slipperier oil damage the seals/rings at break in but not later? Of course, if synthetic oil damages seals/rings, that's a different issue and then it should never be used. Right?

 

[Jswain]

I had heard cautions against using synthetic oil for engine break in (e.g., cars). The concept of breaking in an air pump is new to me - not arguing against it, just noting that I am not familiar; hence this thread that seems to reflect a wide range of opinions.

1) Is the concern with using synthetic oil is that it is "slipperier" than conventional and therefore prevents break in? If so, then shouldn't it just delay break in (i.e., instead of seating within say 15 minutes, it will take 30 minutes) not prevent it?

2) If the synthetic oil prevents (as opposed to delays) break in, shouldn't switching to conventional oil resolve the problem? Why would slipperier oil damage the seals/rings at break in but not later? Of course, if synthetic oil damages seals/rings, that's a different issue and then it should never be used. Right?

Because if your cylinders get glazed the only way you are going to stop the oil seepage is dismantling the compressor and reglazing the cylinders, at a minimum.

It's not about the seals, it's about seating the rings. The engineers at every single air compressor pump manufacturer (probably) aren't wrong.

I would look up a break in procedure from one of the better manufacturers and use it ie: quincy, IR, SB, champion. No need to reinvent the wheel

There is the right way, which works, and is recommended. And then the throw whatever in it so you don't have to do an oil change and maybe it works...or maybe your compressor never seats the rings & you have really oily air making it useless for painting and a timebomb waiting to stick a rod and blow up because nobody checks the oil level in their compressor

The very best reciprocating compressors have head unloaders which when they reach cutout will continue to spin, unloaded so I wouldn't by into the "spinning without a load is bad" idea. Compressors burn out when an air line blow because they are not 100% duty units. The ones which are, do not burn out.

 

[elcom]

Again, not arguing, just trying to understand.
Thanks for clarifying the potential issue: glazing.

The manual for my compressor does not mention synthetic at all - just says "run a few minutes without load" then fill up and proceed.

I found a thread addressing this point: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/breaking-in-compressor-on-synthetic.7926/