Compressor Pump Replacement

[ToddW]

So I have a 705 SAYLOR BEALL pump on my 80G compressor and I tipped it moving it and broke off the side right after/before the flanges
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271847811463?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g=I271847811463.N36.S1 (the entire left piece broke off).

I got the entire compressor for $100 on Craigslist so I don't really want to drop $1400 for the PUMP ALONE I know I can buy a Chinese knock-off for around $450 but that is still expensive to me for what I have into this entire thing

I already have a spare in use currently (60G made-in-usa Lowes) but I'd like to get my 80G 22CFM back working as 12CFM isn't enough for grinding and blasting.

Suggestions, thoughts?

I'd like to spend <$400 ideally.
Can someone weld the cast pump back together? I don't trust myself welding cast that's for sure.

 

[The Cobbler]

replacement parts available?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I'm confused as to what broke by your description. I'm assuming you're referring to the intercooler that is shown on the left side of the photo on e-bay? If so, I would assume either the intercooler and /or head would need to be replaced unless you are able to find a welder that wouldn't charge more that what replacement parts would run.
The SB 705 pump is a great pump and would be worth repairing.

Good luck

 

[Packard V8]

Can someone weld the cast pump back together?

Engine shops send cast iron heads and blocks to be welded all the time. Most every metro area has a specialized welding shop where they all go. Ask the rebuilders who does their cast iron repair.

You'll have to disassemble, thoroughly wash and bolt the crankcase to a flat plate to hold it in alignment while they v-grind and weld.

Should be able to git 'er done for less than $400.

jack vines

 

[md21722]

I'm assuming you broke the finned intercooler? Here's the parts catalog:

http://www.saylor-beall.com/wp-content/uploads/700SeriesManual.pdf

Call around and see how much a replacement is.

 

[N_Jay]

Did the head break or the Intercooler?
Are they one piece, or if not how are they attached to each other?
If it just the intercooler, I am sure there are some creative solutions.

 

[Packard V8]

I tipped it moving it and broke off the side right after/before the flanges . . . the entire left piece broke off. . . Can someone weld the cast pump back together?

While not crystal clear, from above, seems more likely he broke the crankcase than the head or intercooler.

Todd W., you owe us some photos to clear up the confusion.

jack vines

 

[ToddW]

Here are the pics

Had to go through old pics This broke a couple years back, and it's covered very well behind the shop at the moment

I was thinking I could MAYBE thread a pipe into the holes and/or thread + some type of sealent/epoxy but didn't want them vibrating out, maybe using some high-end PVC + epoxy for the flex? (not too sure about heat/pressure/vibration).

I'm also not 100% this isn't a knock-off replacement pump already -- anyone know how I can tell? I can tell it's def. more CFM than the lowes "Peak 5HP" I have though!

 

[N_Jay]

Looks like a new heard and intercooler are in order.
You could try having a shop weld up the ports, but betting the head is cheaper.

Maybe you can find someone with a dead pump and get a used one?

 

[ToddW]

Yeah, I'm thinking welding/cost will be prohibitive and could introduce more problems.

I'm not sure how tapping cast is, but I was also thinking I could grind it flat, tap new holes and DIY the inter-cooler myself? Any thoughts on that?

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Tapping cast iron is simple. Looks like plenty of metal there to thread in some 3/4" NPT ******* and re-attach the intercooler with some railroad unions. Use some schedule 80 fittings and you shouldn't have to worry about cracking.

If it were me, I'd tap the hole and run in some 3/4" NPT to compression adapters and run some thick copper tubing or pipe. I'd run a metal clamp from the middle cylinder block bolt to steady it so it didn't vibrate and break. It would probably shed a whole lot more heat than the original intercooler. 3/4" tubing will flow way more air than a 5hp pump can produce.

In a pinch, I'd hit up a few local compressor shops and see if they have any dead pumps you could salvage the head and intercooler off of. I'm pretty sure the knockoff pumps will bolt right on an actual Saylor Beall, and if it's a knockoff already, well, there you go.

Should have Made in USA embossed on it if it is a real Saylor Beall I think.

EDIT: It looks like a knock-off, since Saylor Beall compressors use a round air filter and the knock offs use a square one.

 

[ToddW]

Tapping cast iron is simple. Looks like plenty of metal there to thread in some 3/4" NPT ******* and re-attach the intercooler with some railroad unions. Use some schedule 80 fittings and you shouldn't have to worry about cracking.

If it were me, I'd tap the hole and run in some 3/4" NPT to compression adapters and run some thick copper tubing or pipe. I'd run a metal clamp from the middle cylinder block bolt to steady it so it didn't vibrate and break. It would probably shed a whole lot more heat than the original intercooler. 3/4" tubing will flow way more air than a 5hp pump can produce.

In a pinch, I'd hit up a few local compressor shops and see if they have any dead pumps you could salvage the head and intercooler off of. I'm pretty sure the knockoff pumps will bolt right on an actual Saylor Beall, and if it's a knockoff already, well, there you go.

Should have Made in USA embossed on it if it is a real Saylor Beall I think.

EDIT: It looks like a knock-off, since Saylor Beall compressors use a round air filter and the knock offs use a square one.

there's hope!

Suggestions on a 3/4" NTP TAP? I've only got the cheapy HF set I rarely use, and for chasing only pretty much.

Thanks, I'll check for 'made in usa' some place...


Looks like I can get this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-3-4-in-Brass-NPT-Compression-Fitting-15002/204834391
& an Irwin made in USA 3/4" TAP.

Any issues with the above being brass? Would you go with another material, maybe something softer to not crack the cast since it's NPT?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

It appears to me that the intercooler is okay, you just need a new head.
I have an old 703 and I believe it has 'Made In USA' cast on the block, below the intercooler. Check yours.

Todd, if the pump is indeed a Saylor Beall, here is a link for a new replacement head (part # 4122) for $187...http://oemaircompressor.com/Saylor-Beall-Replacement-Part-4122.aspx?gclid=CK2szIi-8dACFZNffgodxFQPdA

Good luck.

 

[ToddW]

It appears to me that the intercooler is okay, you just need a new head.
I have an old 703 and I believe it has 'Made In USA' cast on the block, below the intercooler. Check yours.

Todd, if the pump is indeed a Saylor Beall, here is a link for a new replacement head (part # 4122) for $187...http://oemaircompressor.com/Saylor-Beall-Replacement-Part-4122.aspx?gclid=CK2szIi-8dACFZNffgodxFQPdA

Good luck.

Thanks! I'll uncover today and verify. I also need to make sure the intercooler didn't magically dissapear, although I'm sure with a replaced head I could very easily make my own cooler.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Make sure the hole is the correct size for a 3/4" NPT fitting. You can't just eyeball that, it has to be drilled to the correct diameter. If you don't have a drill big enough and a good press to keep it rigid while you are drilling, give the job to someone who can. I'd also flatten out the cracked faces with a grinder first so the bit doesn't wobble around trying to find the center of the hole. I'd also go with a 90 degree brass fitting so I'd only have to make two bends in the tubing to make a "U" bend, instead of a "U" bend and another two 90 degree bends to make it fit the compression fittings. Don't forget to make some sort of retaining strap to fasten it to the compressor at the bottom or vibes may crack it. DeVair found that out the hard way when their new copper finned inter coolers began to split. They were only fastened at the head and as the compressor shook, the intercooler vibrated enough to split the copper tube eventually, so they incorporated a flat metal band that came out from the middle block bolt and wrapped around the finned tube to stabilize it.

 

[md21722]

If you are threading both the head and intercooler to 3/4" NPT, how about using black iron ******* and unions. I prefer the ones from my local plumbing supply than the ones from the big box stores. The plumbing supply has Made in U.S.A. ones that seem higher quality for the same cost.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would check over the intercooler carefully first before making any decisions on what to do next. If it were me I would get a new head (and intercooler if necessary), since it would give the opportunity to check over the internals and clean things up.

 

[redmondjp]

OK, so in line with tapping those ports for threads, why not then just screw in brass compression fitting adapters and then use a coil of copper pipe in place of the stock intercooler? The mounting surface wouldn't be critical then, and the fittings would support the coil of copper pipe (although metal fatigue could be a factor, so anchoring the base of the cooling coil so it doesn't vibrate may be a good idea).

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Thanks! I'll uncover today and verify. I also need to make sure the intercooler didn't magically dissapear, although I'm sure with a replaced head I could very easily make my own cooler.

Todd, I was incorrect. I checked my old 703 pump, and it has a Saylor-Beall sticker with the serial number on it, but nothing cast on the crankcase or anywhere else I could find.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I seem to recall a thread I think Jonathan did a looong time ago rebuilding his 707... He posted the differences between an authentic USA SB and the chinese knockoff's... There are some parts that won't interchange because of size differences.

 

[ToddW]

Good point, can't eye ball it being 3/4"

OK, so in line with tapping those ports for threads, why not then just screw in brass compression fitting adapters and then use a coil of copper pipe in place of the stock intercooler? The mounting surface wouldn't be critical then, and the fittings would support the coil of copper pipe (although metal fatigue could be a factor, so anchoring the base of the cooling coil so it doesn't vibrate may be a good idea).

I was thinking of something along these lines!

Todd, I was incorrect. I checked my old 703 pump, and it has a Saylor-Beall sticker with the serial number on it, but nothing cast on the crankcase or anywhere else I could find.

Thanks, good to know I'll check.


I've messaged a few companies online looking for some used parts, so far nothing in stock