Compressor Question for the Experts

[Craig67]

I have a Husky Tools 60 Gal Compressor from Home Depot and I noticed yesterday that when it is running and filling up the tank, there is air coming out of a small port in the power switch area where the tank pressure gauge is located. I wondered if it was a bleed-off for the pressure gauge itself, but that makes no sense. Before I undo all the piping and return it, I thought I would throw it out here and see if maybe it was something simple

Thanks,
Craig

 

[Major Ramifications]

It sounds like the unloader may be leaking. I don't ever remember seeing this happen before, but it is possible. The unloader is opened when the pressure switch is OFF, releasing the pressure between the pump and check valve (at the tank). Usually, there is a small piece of copper tubing leading to the unloader. Check to make sure exactly where the air is coming from. How long have you had this compressor? What is the model number?

 

[nissan_crawler]

I think he got it. It sounds like the unloading valve. If that's what it is, you'll probably just have to buy a new pressure switch.

 

[Craig67]

Thanks guys....I haven't even had it for a year. Model Number is VT631403AJ. It probably has 50 hrs on it. I hate to take it back for something such as this but it is under warranty. I'll call Husky and see if they want me to do.

 

[Craig67]

Some additional information. I looked at the drawing on Husky for a VT6314 and it does appear that the leak is somewhere in the area where item #15, the unloader valve, connects to the pressure switch. Funny thing is I can't see where the air is coming from. It almost feels like a pinhole type leak.

 

[michaudracing]

With the combination check valve/unloader I got for my compressor, it is normal for little pulses of air to come out while it is running. It's a small hole, maybe 1/32". I don't know if this is true for all combination valves.

-Steve

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

Does this valve leak only when its running? If it doesn't leak when it stops running and can hold the pressure i wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Major Ramifications]

Does this valve leak only when its running? If it doesn't leak when it stops running and can hold the pressure i wouldn't worry about it.

Neal, the unloader valve is wide open when it stops running, the check valve keeps the air in the tank from getting to the unloader. The unloader is closed when it is running, and any leak will just make the compressor work harder to fill the tank.

Craig, there is a tube running from the check valve (where the air goes into the tank) to the unloader (mounted on the pressure switch). Follow the tube to find the unloader. If the unloader is leaking while it is running, make sure that it is not being activated by the pressure switch (usually a little needle protrudes from the unloader and gets depressed by a lever on the pressure switch). You don't need a new pressure switch if only the unloader is leaking. Also, seeing as how this is a stationary unit (no wheels or handle) the warranty will pay an authorized service center to come to your location and repair the unit. I don't know if HD will be very helpful, since the warranty is with Campbell Hausfeld. If HD is no help, check the CHPower.com site to find an authorized service center near you. Call them to see if they can help you. If they can't, call another nearby service center. Not all of the centers repair compressors and those that do don't all make house calls. It might be simpler to take the unloader apart and clean it, or replace it. Good luck.

 

[rocketman]

The unloader is not much more than a schrader valve which lets pressure out of the compressor pump after the contactors in the pressure switch open. That way you don't have a load on the motor when it kicks on again. The little hose that goes from the side of the check valve (usually in the tank) to the unloader may itself be leaking. It is a nylon line generally on models such as yours. Soft copper on many others. They use a 1/4 MPT compression fitting which may also be the issue. Either way, almost everything can be replaced pretty inexpensively. Check here for parts. I'm not connected to this company but they have bent over backwards for me in helping me refurbish a compressor I have.

MASTER TOOL REPAIR

 

[Craig67]

Thanks all for the feedback. I called my local service provider and they said they would come out if I wanted. I decided to take the pressure switch assembly off and take it to them to fix.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

With the combination check valve/unloader I got for my compressor, it is normal for little pulses of air to come out while it is running. It's a small hole, maybe 1/32". I don't know if this is true for all combination valves.

-Steve

His is not the combination unit. He has a check valve at the tank, and a black plastic tube runs to the pressure switch where the unloader valve is located. When the pressure switch trips off, it pushes open the unloader, and dumps all the pressure from the compressor pump to the check valve.

Combination units close and dump every cycle of the piston, but are totally self contained.

Charles

 

[wsi]

I have the same compressor (husky pro model # vt631403aj) it is wired for 240 and I was told it is convertable to 120. I don't have any of the manuals and can't find anything usefull online. Can anyone tell me if .....

a) I can convert it
b) How is this done

Thanks

 

[metalmagpie]

I think "throw it out" is a fitting solution. Husky .. tch tch tch. I like Quincy.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I think "throw it out" is a fitting solution. Husky .. tch tch tch. I like Quincy.

These are Campbell-Hausfeld units, they are not bad compressors. Not top of the line like Saylor-Beal or Curtis, or several others, but not junk either.

Charles

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I have the same compressor (husky pro model # vt631403aj) it is wired for 240 and I was told it is convertable to 120. I don't have any of the manuals and can't find anything usefull online. Can anyone tell me if .....

a) I can convert it
b) How is this done

Thanks

If it can be converted, the data plate on the motor will show both voltages and amperages, such as 120/240 volts and 15/7.5 amps. It will also have motor internal jumper diagrams to show what wires and jumpers are connected to what terminals for each voltage. Of course, the plug also has to be changed, and you may find it draws too much current for a standard wall outlet. If the motor is over 1-1/2 hp, forget it.

Charles