Compressor - remotely controlled

[katit]

Anyone done it? I am not using shop all the time. There is many outlets and some tiny leaks. Compressor might cycle once or twice per day.
So, currently I have a switch (220) in my shop to turn it on/off.

I am moving compressor to different garage and it will be PITA to go there every time and flip breaker. Also, it won't be heard out there and I don't like to run it like this.

So, I was wondering if there is some kind of remote switch device I can hook up? In perfect world it would be like 24hr timer I can turn on manually, OR I can use WiFi app or something to turn it on?

 

[u3b3rg33k]

motorized ball valve at the tank on a motion sensor?

 

[Snapped-off]

Could you set up a wifi relay on the motor circuit?

 

[Firstram]

I have put together remote starters for dust collectors that work very well.

Use a heavy duty relay with a 120 volt coil and trip the coil with a Christmas light remote. Really need to know the specs on your compressor and what kind of starter/pressure switch it has to be more specific.

 

[LopezBart]

A double (or triple) pole contactor w/ a 120V coil will do this nicely.

Definite Purpose Contactors 101

www.wolfautomation.com

 

[dogdog]

A double (or triple) pole contactor w/ a 120V coil will do this nicely.

Definite Purpose Contactors 101

www.wolfautomation.com

^^^ I would go with this if you are that desperate.

or a 240v coil contactor / relay and a 240V wifi switch. would have safe you the hassle of pulling a neutral .

 

[danielbuck]

I wonder if there's a "smart" wall switch that can be controlled from your phone that is 220? I know lots of folks have "smart" outlets, but they are usually all 110.

I'd try to find the source of the leaks though, even if you figure out a switch like this.

 

[RTM]

I've seen 220v smart outlets online, but don't think they would run a compressor. I think using an 110V smart outlet to control the contactor as LopezBart said would be the easiest.

 

[rlitman]

motorized ball valve at the tank on a motion sensor?

I use a WiFi controlled motorized ball valve (actually, a 1000WOG stainless body valve with a WiFi actuator strapped to the handle), and just tell Alexa to turn on the compressor. Not that home automation is necessary, but in my case I use the compressor much less than the garage, and with hoses that reach outside the garage, I often want to pressurize the system remotely.

As for how to shut the compressor off, my vote is for a ball valve over a relay or electrical control. I actually have a motor starter contactor, so I could easily have interrupted it's coil without needing a separate contactor, but preventing the pump from running means that the system's leaks will always end up draining the tank, and you'll have to wait for a full cycle (and deal with the noise of the compressor running) before you get any air out. With a valve, there are no leaks, and the tank is blissfully waiting full for it's next use. That equates to less pump run time, which also means less water to drain. win-win-win

As for what sort of valve, well my tank runs up to 180PSI. My first attempt at this used a US Solid brass ball valve, rated for 80,000 actuations, but only 1.0Mpa, which is 145PSI. After several years, the reduction gearing wore out, I suspect from the abuse of too much pressure differential across the valve causing too much drag. So, for the second time around, I went with a 1000WOG stainless steel ball valve, in the hopes that the overkill valve would deal better with the pressure difference. Also, having an external valve actuator means that if the actuator breaks, I can disengage it and still manually operate the valve.

 

[danielbuck]

I run a motorized ball valve as my purge valve on the bottom of my tank, really handy to have a quick easy way to remotely purge water from the tank, might be something else worth looking at as well. I have mine on a wall switch right next to the garage light switch. every time I open and close up the garage while working, I can easilly hit the switch to burp out a few seconds of air to keep the tank clean. I've been using that for probbably close to 10 years now, it gets actuated at least a hand full of times per week.

 

[GeoBruin]

I have an intermatic pool timer on my compressor shed. It automatically kills the power every day around quittin' time so it doesn't kick on at night or run continuously when we're out of town. I imagine a wireless pool timer would give you the function you're looking for.

Here's a 5hp rated model.

Migro Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 50A Resistive 120VAC 40A 5HP Wireless Pump Control Timer Switch, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THD8VBN?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[katit]

This is compressor control unit. While we are on a subject, do you know why this black plastic elbow and brass fitting kind of spin easily?

I like idea of ball valve on wifi control. I have 2 garages and basement with air lines going everywhere.
Basement is where compressor used to be. Old garage is where I have lift and 2 outlets (one with hose reel). I just rebuilt hose reel with o-rings, but might be leaking there. Also, I know car lift button leaks.

Compressor getting moved into new garage. All piping done using 3/4 silver soldered copper. My guess there is about 150ft total of piping. Doubt any of the joints leak though.

Can anybody point to such valve with wireless control? Keep in mind, I don't have any ALexas or anything like that in my house. Ideally this valve should be able to connect to wifi. And ideally, I should be able to open it for 24hr using app or manually.

Maybe stupid question, but can't compressor pump by itself lose air? Because if so, then ball valve not going to help.
As I said, sometime it's weeks between compressor use. I almost feel like even if air lost and it needs to pump it back - it's maybe 30 minutes of "extra" work per year. No big deal.

 

[katit]

I have an intermatic pool timer on my compressor shed. It automatically kills the power every day around quittin' time so it doesn't kick on at night or run continuously when we're out of town. I imagine a wireless pool timer would give you the function you're looking for.

Here's a 5hp rated model.

Migro Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 50A Resistive 120VAC 40A 5HP Wireless Pump Control Timer Switch, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THD8VBN?tag=atomicindus08-20

This one is 120V though. My compressor is 240. But this is something that looks about right..

 

[nadogail]

I used a Water Heater time switch, about $30, to set my son's electric car recharging time to the Super Off Peak time period.

 

[GeoBruin]

This one is 120V though. My compressor is 240. But this is something that looks about right..

Oh, yep. Didn't even notice that. That was a quick search so hopefully a more in-depth search would turn up a 240 volt version.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I use a WiFi controlled motorized ball valve (actually, a 1000WOG stainless body valve with a WiFi actuator strapped to the handle), and just tell Alexa to turn on the compressor. Not that home automation is necessary, but in my case I use the compressor much less than the garage, and with hoses that reach outside the garage, I often want to pressurize the system remotely.

As for how to shut the compressor off, my vote is for a ball valve over a relay or electrical control. I actually have a motor starter contactor, so I could easily have interrupted it's coil without needing a separate contactor, but preventing the pump from running means that the system's leaks will always end up draining the tank, and you'll have to wait for a full cycle (and deal with the noise of the compressor running) before you get any air out. With a valve, there are no leaks, and the tank is blissfully waiting full for it's next use. That equates to less pump run time, which also means less water to drain. win-win-win

As for what sort of valve, well my tank runs up to 180PSI. My first attempt at this used a US Solid brass ball valve, rated for 80,000 actuations, but only 1.0Mpa, which is 145PSI. After several years, the reduction gearing wore out, I suspect from the abuse of too much pressure differential across the valve causing too much drag. So, for the second time around, I went with a 1000WOG stainless steel ball valve, in the hopes that the overkill valve would deal better with the pressure difference. Also, having an external valve actuator means that if the actuator breaks, I can disengage it and still manually operate the valve.

Try one of these (or ebay one for cheap):

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-MS8105A1030-Direct-Coupled-Actuator-w-Spring-Return-24V-44-lb-in-Torque

you can put a lever arm on it to make it move things, too. available in a variety of voltages.

This is compressor control unit. While we are on a subject, do you know why this black plastic elbow and brass fitting kind of spin easily?

I like idea of ball valve on wifi control. I have 2 garages and basement with air lines going everywhere.
Basement is where compressor used to be. Old garage is where I have lift and 2 outlets (one with hose reel). I just rebuilt hose reel with o-rings, but might be leaking there. Also, I know car lift button leaks.

Compressor getting moved into new garage. All piping done using 3/4 silver soldered copper. My guess there is about 150ft total of piping. Doubt any of the joints leak though.

Can anybody point to such valve with wireless control? Keep in mind, I don't have any ALexas or anything like that in my house. Ideally this valve should be able to connect to wifi. And ideally, I should be able to open it for 24hr using app or manually.

Maybe stupid question, but can't compressor pump by itself lose air? Because if so, then ball valve not going to help.
As I said, sometime it's weeks between compressor use. I almost feel like even if air lost and it needs to pump it back - it's maybe 30 minutes of "extra" work per year. No big deal.

I'm guessing that bottom tube in the red circle is the unloader, depressed by a lever inside when it cuts out/you flip it OFF.

 

[Firstram]

Any flavor 120v device can be used to trip a 120v coil on a relay.
Plug it into a nearby receptacle so you don't have to have to deal with a 4 wire cord to the compressor.

If that worries you, wire a cheap transformer into your switch and buy a relay with a low voltage coil.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I used a Water Heater time switch, about $30, to set my son's electric car recharging time to the Super Off Peak time period.

for most compressors, the factory switch/pressure control unloads the head. if you shut it off before it cycles and unloads (by disconnecting power via another means), then the compressor head stays loaded, and generally will fail to restart.

 

[micromind]

for most compressors, the factory switch/pressure control unloads the head. if you shut it off before it cycles and unloads (by disconnecting power via another means), then the compressor head stays loaded, and generally will fail to restart.

A 'Load Genie' will solve this.

It's an in-tank combination check - unloader valve. When the pump stops, it unloads automatically. When it starts, the unloader closes.

 

[nadogail]

for most compressors, the factory switch/pressure control unloads the head. if you shut it off before it cycles and unloads (by disconnecting power via another means), then the compressor head stays loaded, and generally will fail to restart.

My compressor and distribution system leak enough to make restarts easy.

 

[Shocker]

Hey @katit , check out this article - https://www.smarthomeperfected.com/high-load-220v-240v-smart-switches-plugs/

There are several choices for 240v smart plugs. WiFi or Z Wave or Zigbee with apps to control them, power usage data etc.

Should allow you to do what you want fairly simply.

 

[katit]

Hey @katit , check out this article - https://www.smarthomeperfected.com/high-load-220v-240v-smart-switches-plugs/

There are several choices for 240v smart plugs. WiFi or Z Wave or Zigbee with apps to control them, power usage data etc.

Should allow you to do what you want fairly simply.

Well, this article kind of pointed me to the similar direction with what I thought yesterday..

This one looks the best. Not sure if "10HP" rating is real, but it's way more than what's needed.
At least I can see what's inside. Relay, and contactor. And I can mount this right over my 220 outlet. And then hardwire compressor into this box.

About the same price if I piece it together (wifi relay + contactor + enclosure).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC2BT85?tag=atomicindus08-20

What you all think?

 

[PoorUB]

I have the motor starter wired through the lighting circuit so the compressor runs only when the lights are on. I have thought about adding a valve in the tank outlet powered by the shop lights.

IMO, killing the power is best. You could have some other failure, pressure switch, or relief valve fails and the compressor sits and runs constantly only you notice. It happed to me.

 

[katit]

I have the motor starter wired through the lighting circuit so the compressor runs only when the lights are on. I have thought about adding a valve in the tank outlet powered by the shop lights.

IMO, killing the power is best. You could have some other failure, pressure switch, or relief valve fails and the compressor sits and runs constantly only you notice. It happed to me.

In my case compressor is in different garage. So, it could/should be running lights or not. And I won't hear it in a house or in my shop. Thats where main problem is. I think electric disconnect is a way to go. Of course, I'd love to implement all other "tricks" and have ball valve, auto-purge, etc. But not sure if single do all device exists. And if I had to do one - I will do shut off.

 

[PoorUB]

In my case compressor is in different garage. So, it could/should be running lights or not. And I won't hear it in a house or in my shop. Thats where main problem is. I think electric disconnect is a way to go. Of course, I'd love to implement all other "tricks" and have ball valve, auto-purge, etc. But not sure if single do all device exists. And if I had to do one - I will do shut off.

I would seriously look into a remotely energized timer. A timer you have to manually trigger to start, but after 6 or 8 hours it shuts off and stays off.
IMO, if you have to remember to shut it off, you will forget and the compressor will get left on.

 

[katit]

I would seriously look into a remotely energized timer. A timer you have to manually trigger to start, but after 6 or 8 hours it shuts off and stays off.
IMO, if you have to remember to shut it off, you will forget and the compressor will get left on.

This is exactly what I was looking/hoping for. I kind of assumed that those WiFi devices have such capability? Specifically as I said, I'd like to set it where I turn it on for "X hours" from an app when I need it.

 

[larry4406]

I will be moving my compressor to my detached barn at some point.

I can turn the barn outside lights on from the house. This lighting circuit I wired a 120V switch plug to. I plan on installing an electric ball valve and a contacter powered off this switch plug.

When going to bed, if the barn outside lights are on, its my sign.

 

[rlitman]

Well, this article kind of pointed me to the similar direction with what I thought yesterday..

This one looks the best. Not sure if "10HP" rating is real, but it's way more than what's needed.
At least I can see what's inside. Relay, and contactor. And I can mount this right over my 220 outlet. And then hardwire compressor into this box.

About the same price if I piece it together (wifi relay + contactor + enclosure).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC2BT85?tag=atomicindus08-20

What you all think?

That looks like an air conditioner compressor contactor. Yes, it could be legit 40A 10hp. If you search around, you can find the contactor for under $20 (at most $30 if you find a top of the line one with silver contacts), and the wifi switch for also under $20. The box, is probably the most expensive part.

This is exactly what I was looking/hoping for. I kind of assumed that those WiFi devices have such capability? Specifically as I said, I'd like to set it where I turn it on for "X hours" from an app when I need it.

Most of the WiFi switches have an "inching" mode that will turn off after a pre-determined time. But that mode generally is limited to 1 hour max. You could create a routine that you call when you turn it on, that turns it off after a delay, and that is usually limited to 24 hours. I have a daily routine that turns off my compressor every night, just in case I forget to turn it off.

 

[katit]

That looks like an air conditioner compressor contactor. Yes, it could be legit 40A 10hp. If you search around, you can find the contactor for under $20 (at most $30 if you find a top of the line one with silver contacts), and the wifi switch for also under $20. The box, is probably the most expensive part.

Most of the WiFi switches have an "inching" mode that will turn off after a pre-determined time. But that mode generally is limited to 1 hour max. You could create a routine that you call when you turn it on, that turns it off after a delay, and that is usually limited to 24 hours. I have a daily routine that turns off my compressor every night, just in case I forget to turn it off.

Ok. After reading more details - those with enclosures - seems like enclosures themselves not "up to code". So, getting nice box is kind of OK. It's also OK to get contactor, and they could be found cheap.

Then only "wild horse" here is wifi relay. They come in million different kinds. And I can pick from many since my requirements now (amperage wise) is not bad. Pretty much any will do.

The only question is supply voltage to contactor. Looks like generally they are 24V. This means I need to get power supply so I have 24V feeding my WiFi relay which will feed contactor. Correct?

When you talk about "inching" mode... Yes, this sounds GREAT with exception of 1hr limit. WHY? And when you talk about "routine". Is that like a program? Is that specific to specific smart home system?

See.. I am trying to find some kind of wifi device which got internal permanent memory with physical buttons for on/off. So, in ideal world I would program button for 8hr "ON" and forget about it. WiFi connectivity and app and me remembering all that won't be necessary.
Of course, it would be nice if I have app installed and all connected to turn it on from wifi. But worse case - I can walk to compressor, turn on and it would be energized for 8hr without any wifi/apps.

Now that I think about it - If those wifi devices finicky - I'd rather have mechanical/physical timer which I can set. It is not so much of a problem to walk to compressor to turn it on for 8hr. Biggest problem is to not forget to turn it off..

 

[micromind]

How about a basic spring-wound timer. Put it series with the control circuit and if you need the compressor, just twist the knob to however many hours you think you'll need it.

You can put as many of these in parallel as you want, the first one to be wound up will start the compressor, the last one to time out will stop it.

 

[RTM]

Most of the WiFi switches have an "inching" mode that will turn off after a pre-determined time.

My Hubspace app will let me go up to 24 hours once I start it