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Compressor size?

83diesel

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Looking for a 220 volt air compressor that will run 3/4" and 1" impacts for heavy truck suspension and tire work. Some air grinder and die grinder use, possably in the future a pressure sandblaster. All used one at a time, not for a multiple tech shop use.

I have searched numerous threads, most guys use 3/8 and 1/2" guns and do body work. I can justify the money for a more expensive compressor if needed but don't want to buy the most expensive one to find it is overkill. I have been looking at the IR's, Bel Aire, Quincy's and others around the 15 cfm range 60 to 80 gallon. I have seen a lot of controversy on tank size and how the compressor output is more important than the reserve capacity. Price range for spending is b/w 1000 and 1500 dollars. I have heard a lot of bad rap and read a lot of bad reviews on the newer IRs.

So anyone with a similar situation inform pros and cons on what you are using would be helpful. Only want to buy once.
 
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padronanniversary

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MiTM also. Love mine, and have been putting it through its paces. Built like a tank. I've had other major brands, and this is right up there with Quicy and Eaton
 

pipsters

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A 3/4" impact eats something like 40 cfm @ 90 psi under load. No idea about 1", I would guess 50 cfm+? Unless you plan on buying a compressor that will supply that, tank size (storage) is more important than the output.

That being said you still need one that will supply a sandblaster and die grinder. I have no idea what those tools use, but they are continuous use (if you plan on using them in that scenario) so you would need a compressor big enough to supply them with constant air if you don't want to lose performance.

I think die grinders are in the 20 cfm range continuous use, and sand blasters are higher.
 

larry_g

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Boy howdy that is a loaded question. I looked up some 3/4 impacts that run is the range of 10-55cfm's. A sand blast cabinet can also be a real air hog. I would suggest that you really figure out what the tool's you have and intend to get require for air consumption. I am one of the people who believes that tank size is of little consern when running air hogs. Once you **** the air out of the tank it is the motor/pumphead that determines what you can do. You will also have to consider the piping system and size of pipe. That said if you have a larger tank you will have a longer run time between waits for the system to recover. You have to determine if you can deal with the recovery time or if your loosing money while the system pumps up. If running the big stuff is infrequent then you have to make the choice.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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83diesel

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With the 3/4 and 1" guns they say 12 to 15 cfm but don't give a load cfm. Pretty much would take 10 lugnuts off, replace brake shoes, compressor built back up or almost caught up and tighten lug nuts, same with engine and suspension. Not constant running.

With the sandblaster and die grinders, need something that would keep up for a while, but would run out of sand or reposition, etc. So I guess a 80 gallon tank would be a must and at least 18 cfm?

I know the gas compressor at work 12.5 Hp Kohler IR with 30 gallon tank will run a 1" impact almost constantly and will keep up with grinders and 1" diaphragm pump that is the biggest air hog ever, I think 30+ cfm. The compressor puts out around 20 some cfm at 175 but does not stay there for long. Keeping in mind the compressor for home will be used for 8 to 20 hours a week depending on what's going on, so a little lag time and a little money saved would not hurt anything.

I plan on running 3/4" black pipe to all drops than reducing to 3/8" high flow and 1/4" high flow fittings on 1/2" and 3/8" 50 foot air hoses with several traps, drop legs and filters in the mix.
 

e-tek

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Sandblast cabs run about 25cfm. Highest tool users are DAs and buffers at 15-20. I`m surprised at the impacts useage as half inchers use much less....
 

pipsters

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12-15 cfm = 48-60 cfm under load. But obviously you aren't using them constantly. That was my point about tank size, not many people will buy 50 cfm compressors for home use.

My 25 gal compressor does just fine for my 1/2" impact (25 cfm under load) and its only 5.8 cfm. But it holds 25 gals @ 150 psi.

Buy one that will run the sanders and you'll be fine with any impact as long as its got a tank on it.
 
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83diesel

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A Saylor-Beal model#755-120 or closer to #X-755-120 10HP motor would be a minimum that might be to small. You are more likely going to need a duplex compressor. You can get up to 15hp motors but they run $3000. Any way you look its going to cost you several thousand dollars.

http://saylor-beall.com/air_compressors/tank_mounted_horizontal.php

Only repair shops I've seen compressors that big used is body shops and shops that have 10+ techs and then sometimes I've seen where they just keep adding 80 gallon compressors inline with the next one. I don't know if they use some sort of check valve to keep one compressor from overworking and the next one from underworking.

So I guess an 80 gallon is a definate and probably at least 16 to 18 cfm at minimum. With sand blasters I have used smaller orifices to keep the air flow down and make sure I have several projects to keep myself busy if there is any wait time b/w buildup. Again not for production, just don't want to burn up a compressor in a year and don't want to wait for the thing to build up on each lugnut (turn a hour brake job into 3-4 hours)
 

mrholeshot

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1 inch impacts, sanders and such eat up some air. For a 1 inch Impact you need 1/2 hose and at least 15cfm@175 psi. While most makers rated them at max torque at 10-12 cfm at 90psi. The guns are slugs until you get them past 150psi. Thats based on CP797 and IR285.
 

cherokee140

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Sandblast cabs run about 25cfm. Highest tool users are DAs and buffers at 15-20. I`m surprised at the impacts useage as half inchers use much less....

I agree with this, the one thing you left out is are you doing this to make money on or is this for your home shop? The answer to that question opens up bunches of new questions. For me the few times I do body work (those are the tools I have that eat air) I can deal with a smaller compressor and use the money better in other areas of my shop. Air rachets, impacts, and even drills grinders do not eat air like sand blasters and air sanders do...how much you use those tools is what is going to depend on how big a comp. you need.
 
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Theloniousmonk

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MiTM also. Love mine, and have been putting it through its paces. Built like a tank. I've had other major brands, and this is right up there with Quicy and Eaton

+1, we used to service MiTM (build in Peosta Iowa!)... now most compressor companies including MiTM and Campbell Haus. use the same tanks and heads, but for some reason we would see a MiTM once in a blue-moon compared to a Campbell.

Don't be afraid of a Refurb. MiTM or IR either... as long as there is a warranty, you really can't go wrong. Most "refurb" jobs are actually new compressors (new head/motor or whatever was "defective" on initial delivery to PO)...

I need to dig out my volume formulas for usage/size scaling.
 

mrchuck

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I'm not part of Lowe's, but I bought my compressor 10 days ago, and it is a V-twin cast iron compressor, belt driven, and has a 3 YEAR parts and labor 100% warranty on it.
Yep, they will fix it 100% for 3 years.
It is quiet compared to others I've had.
 

Elroy

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Looking for a 220 volt air compressor that will run 3/4" and 1" impacts for heavy truck suspension and tire work. Some air grinder and die grinder use, possably in the future a pressure sandblaster.

I can justify the money for a more expensive compressor if needed but don't want to buy the most expensive one to find it is overkill.

As Elroy understands it, you can never have too much air. ESPECIALLY if you're planning on sand blasting

I have heard a lot of bad rap and read a lot of bad reviews on the newer IRs.

Now that kinds of depends on which series IR compressor you're talking about as IR makes some good stuff.

Look at Quincy or Saylor-Beal as these are the manufacturers. People like Bel-Aire simply repackage. Gardener Denver (Champion) is another recip OEM but they are the ones with problems as far as Elroy is concerned. A T-30 IR is hard to beat.

A good compressor is typically going to have features such as:

Fully Pressurized lubrication that's filtered
Not splash lubricated

Disc Valves
Not reed valves

Ample inter-cooling on two stage units

Cast iron
Not Aluminum

Full Roller Bearings that are L10 rated
not journal bushings

Actual piston rings
Not plastic or rubber o-rings

NEMA starters
Not simply a thermally protected motor

Tapper lock bushings on the drives
Not bored and keyed

Low RPM pumps (less that 500 or 600 RPM)
NOT 1,200 and 1,400 RPM pumps

Full size NEMA motors with D slip curves
Not some "custom" special application motor

Tanks that are internally coated
Not simply a dump valve

ASME certified tanks (should go with out saying)

Recips are fine and dandy but a screw kicks their ***

For complete satisfaction, Don't forget a properly sized drier that will actually depress the dew point.
Not some plastic filter that only catches rust.

Good luck on your selection. Elroy would recommend that you give IR another look see.
 
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BigAirT

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A lot of good information here. I have had a good deal of experience (15+ years) owning a pair of Big Quincy compressors, they were flawless in that time. When I bought a compressor for my "home" shop I couldn't find a smaller Quincy, I have since found them & when mine needs replacing it will be with a 2 stage 80 gallon Quincy.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Look at Quincy or Saylor-Beal as these are the manufacturers. People like Bel-Aire simply repackage. Gardener Denver (Champion) is another recip OEM but they are the ones with problems as far as Elroy is concerned. A T-30 IR is hard to beat.

Add Curtis to the list of quality USA manufacturers of compressors.

Charles
 

Junkman

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I have a Quincy pressure lubricated head on an 80 gallon tank and have never been happier with a compressor. I purchased it over 20 years ago, and it works as well today as the day it was delivered.
If you are going to be using a lot of air, and never want to run out, then buy one of the double head units mounted on an 80 gallon tank. Getting the pressure lubricated heads is the important part. The units that are splash lubricated just don't last as long. Quality comes at a higher price, and you get what you pay for.
 

Kev442

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If you want to blast continuously until the hopper needs refilling, you need to go bigger..
 
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