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Compressor suggestion/question (Husky/Kobalt)

DerStig

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Looking to buy a compressor in the $200-400 range. How are Husky compressors? Or kobalt? It seems like they are made by the same company so any preference between the two?

Also, how is it that oil less compressors put out more CFM and more psi?

So I have a 30 gal 175 psi husky which is $269 whereas oilled one is only 155 psi but it costs $439.

The expensive one is sold as "ultra quiet" yet its only 75 db vs the oilless being 78 dB.

My use cases will primarily be inflating tires, running a 4 post lift and rolling jack, impact wrench, and nail gun.

It also has to run on a standard 20amp 110v circuit. Any other brand suggestions are welcome
 
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mustang68408

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I've really been looking at the Ingersol Rand Garage Mate + silencer filters... a tad more expensive, but portable, 110v, very quiet with the silencers ($10 a piece) and oiled engine
 
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DerStig

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I've really been looking at the Ingersol Rand Garage Mate + silencer filters... a tad more expensive, but portable, 110v, very quiet with the silencers ($10 a piece) and oiled engine

Thats a bit more than I'd like to spend and its also only 135psi. I dont understand why its so expensive. Isnt Husky also made in USA (or Kobalt).
 

Carroll B

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The decibel scale, dB, is logarithmic meaning a 3 dB change between the two you mention is a huge change. The logarithmic decibel scale goes up in powers of ten: every increase of 10 dB on the scale is equivalent to a 10-fold increase in sound intensity (which broadly corresponds with loudness). That means a sound of 20 dB is 10 times louder than a sound of 10 dB and a 30 dB sound is 100 times louder. Just so you know.
 
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DerStig

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The decibel scale, dB, is logarithmic meaning a 3 dB change between the two you mention is a huge change. The logarithmic decibel scale goes up in powers of ten: every increase of 10 dB on the scale is equivalent to a 10-fold increase in sound intensity (which broadly corresponds with loudness). That means a sound of 20 dB is 10 times louder than a sound of 10 dB and a 30 dB sound is 100 times louder. Just so you know.

I certainly know that, I m just puzzled why the more expensive unit (almost twice) is 20 psi less. Thats a significant difference.
 

CrashmanS

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One thing to consider is that most all air tools are only rated at 90 psi. You don't need a compressor that supplies for than 110-120 psi. What you do want is as much cfm (air volume) you can get. Psi doesn't run air tools cfm does. I would much rather have a compressor that has 12 cfm at 90 psi that tops out at 120psi than one that tops out at 175 psi that only has 5-6 cfm at 90. I would put more thought into a compressor that provides the most cfm at a psi that I will be using my tools at. I dont know a year tools that need 175 psi.

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DerStig

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I am aware of that but these single phase 110v units all have the same 5-5.3 CFM. I cannot get a 240v 3-4 hp units.

So the question is, should I pay $200-250 more and get an oiled unit or get one of the oilless ones?

My heaviest use case will be the rolling jack for my 4 post (rj45). I think for that high psi is very important.

The way I see this is unless I want to spend $600-800, the difference between $250 and $500 is only oil lubrication.
 

Ilikeike

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If you have the $ don't get oil-less, unless you need a small portable unit. Get the oiled unit and keep it forever. There's a reason the oil-less is cheaper, because in my opinion they suk.
 

Fish_Stick

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I've had 3 compressors so far; 1 was oil less, 1 was a direct drive oil and the final is the more traditional belt driven oil compressor. I regret the oil less and direct drive purchases heavily. Noisy as all get out and vibrate like crazy due to the high rpm. Both were Hitachi's but all of the oil less are noisy. Search craigslist or pawn shops for an older oil unit and save the money that way. My oil less was also starting to go bad after 3 years or so because the teflon ring was wearing out. Cost more to replace the piston than it was worth. Those little pancake compressors are a throw away item.
 
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DerStig

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The problem with the belt driven oilled systems is that they are usually 240. Is there a 110 one that is reasonably priced? I dont really use compressor that much, it will perhaps see 20-25 hours per year of usage thats why I cannot bring myself to spend $600-700 for one.
 

Fish_Stick

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Plenty of older units used to run on 110 and were belt driven. Currently running a 20 gallon Speedaire that's a 110 unit. Husky had a few models that were about a 30 gallon vertical with a oil unit on top. Craigslist and pawn shops are going to be the best bet for finding an older cheaper unit. New units from HD go for about $440. The problem with buying a new unit is that for $40 you can get a 240v model so you really feel like you got a bad deal since those units put out twice the air. Plenty of people are happy with the oil less units but personally they are just too loud.
 

brownbagg

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I got an husky, it was the company compressor for five years till the woodruff key lip out. boss thought it was toast so its been in my shop eight years. its not a top of the line, but its ok, never a problem for me
 

dave*99

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I've scrapped the 2 Oilless compressors I've owned due to failures. The two oiled compressors I own will likely outlive me. My usage is low too.
 
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DerStig

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The problem with 240v is getting that line to the garage. Cheapest quote I got was $750. No way I can swing $1500 for a compressor:(

Between kobalt, IA, and husky, whats the best choice?

Also, I m thinking 30 gal is the way to go because 60 gal will take forever to fill up using 120v.
 

manufacture

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The big difference between the compressor options the OP has given is duty cycle. The cheaper oil-less compressors have lower duty cycles than oiled. The combination of duty cycle and CFM are what make or literally break an air compressor. The Ingersoll Garage Mate is probably expensive because it is rated for continuous duty IE 100% duty cycle. I looked in the manual for the 30 gal 175 psi husky says it is rated for continuous running but it also says it should only be run at 50% duty cycle to prolong life. Seems pretty wishy washy to me.

With all that being said, none of the OP's uses would really require high duty cycles. If the OP wants to get into running sand blasters, air sanders, die grinders, or the like for any length of time then a continuous duty compressor would make more sense and be worth the extra cost.
 
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mustang68408

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Thats a bit more than I'd like to spend and its also only 135psi. I dont understand why its so expensive. Isnt Husky also made in USA (or Kobalt).

Well some of it is the Ingersol Rand name, but parts will be available in the future... and what are you running that requires more than 135psi?

The oiled compressors will outlast most of us as previously said...
 
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DerStig

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To be honest with you, I might sound stupid and I should be embarrassed, i dont even know what those things are (sand blaster, die grinder, air blaster, etc). I could look them up now in google but it would be cheating. I'm a weekend DIYer, I do big projects here and there (like a 625 sq ft playground retaining wall and playground or 12x20 shed or painting a deck), most of my real ******** usage is about cars.

I am putting a 4 post lift in my garage with a rolling jack and thats why I need a compressor. I dont have a single air tool right now. I might buy in the future though.
 
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DerStig

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Well some of it is the Ingersol Rand name, but parts will be available in the future... and what are you running that requires more than 135psi?

The oiled compressors will outlast most of us as previously said...

The rolling jack rj45 requires a lot of air and I think its high psi that will get its going rather than CFM. I think I need at least 150psi the user manual says 10-20cfm at 125 psi. The higher the psi and the tank size better it will be.
 

md21722

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Using a lot of air and doing it on 120V is going to be marginal. Plus single stage pumps just don't work that great at higher pressures and you have to allow for pressure drop across the lines. A lot of people think you set the regulator at 90, in the case of air tools, but the tools themselves are rated for working pressure, not what the regulator says when nothing is happening.

If the jack is rated 125, then you should ideally have the 175 PSI compressor. It will cycle probably 145-175, allow 20 for pressure drop gets you 125. So even if the tank is down and the compressor is just about to come on, the jack can still get the 125 PSI it wants.
 
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bagged150

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I have the husky 30 gallon and I love it.


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Fish_Stick

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The problem with 240v is getting that line to the garage. Cheapest quote I got was $750. No way I can swing $1500 for a compressor:(
.
I get you can't run 240V but that's why I wouldn't buy a brand new oil unit one since the prices are so close. $440 for the 110V Husky and $489 for a 240V 60 gallon Husky. Used is the way to go, picked mine up for under $200.
 

Fish_Stick

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The rolling jack rj45 requires a lot of air and I think its high psi that will get its going rather than CFM. I think I need at least 150psi the user manual says 10-20cfm at 125 psi. The higher the psi and the tank size better it will be.

Directly from the manual for the RJ45:
"The air supply should be 20 CFM (.57 M³/MIN) and 100 PSI (7 BAR) to obtain the rated hydraulic pressure. Air Supply should be regulated to a maximum of 125 PSI (8.6 BAR)"
 

PCMusicGuy

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If you have a tractor supply around where you are, they commonly run the porter cable 30 gallon oil unit (pretty much the same as the husky or kobalt) for $299. It will be about as cheap as you can get a decent 120v oil lubed compressor.
 

Absentglare

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Looking to buy a compressor in the $200-400 range. How are Husky compressors? Or kobalt? It seems like they are made by the same company so any preference between the two?



Also, how is it that oil less compressors put out more CFM and more psi?



So I have a 30 gal 175 psi husky which is $269 whereas oilled one is only 155 psi but it costs $439.



The expensive one is sold as "ultra quiet" yet its only 75 db vs the oilless being 78 dB.



My use cases will primarily be inflating tires, running a 4 post lift and rolling jack, impact wrench, and nail gun.



It also has to run on a standard 20amp 110v circuit. Any other brand suggestions are welcome



I went with dewalt. It's nice and portable with these big wheels. Pretty quiet. It's factory lubed so you don't have to, but you can, oil it.

Works great. Saves me $50/year on sprinkler winterization.

cf360d8fb18ec029076d490c065d5977.jpg
 

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dave*99

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I went with dewalt. It's nice and portable with these big wheels. Pretty quiet. It's factory lubed so you don't have to, but you can, oil it.

Works great. Saves me $50/year on sprinkler winterization.

cf360d8fb18ec029076d490c065d5977.jpg

That unit produces only 4.9 cfm at 100 psi. Far below what the OP stated he needs.
 
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DerStig

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The problem with going used from craigslist is I need to rent a truck to carry it. Unless its closeby, on average it will cost me $70-100. On top of that I need to worry about lifting it to the truck and lowering it without tilting it.

I will check craigslist and see if there is a high quality brand 30 gal available.
 

matt_i

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There is no earthly way that this is all going to work. Either the jack can't be run or else the limitations on the air compressor have to be removed.

I linked a 7.5hp Quincy compressor which is somewhere around $2k. It doesn't even reach 20cfm @ 90psi...to reach the mfg stated requirements for the jack it would need to be a 10hp compressor.............

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...j-6-NBCgGquzbjOfRLG5K0bG1091yr-DsMaAoxI8P8HAQ
 

jcthorne

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I am aware of that but these single phase 110v units all have the same 5-5.3 CFM. I cannot get a 240v 3-4 hp units.

So the question is, should I pay $200-250 more and get an oiled unit or get one of the oilless ones?

My heaviest use case will be the rolling jack for my 4 post (rj45). I think for that high psi is very important.

The way I see this is unless I want to spend $600-800, the difference between $250 and $500 is only oil lubrication.


No, the RJ-45 rolling jack specifically requires a regulator to keep the pressure under 125 and also requires a water separator. You really do not need that big of an air compressor for this. I use a very quiet California Air Tools compressor (60db) that has no trouble keeping up with the two RJ-45 jacks on my lift.
 

jcthorne

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There is no earthly way that this is all going to work. Either the jack can't be run or else the limitations on the air compressor have to be removed.

I linked a 7.5hp Quincy compressor which is somewhere around $2k. It doesn't even reach 20cfm @ 90psi...to reach the mfg stated requirements for the jack it would need to be a 10hp compressor.............

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...j-6-NBCgGquzbjOfRLG5K0bG1091yr-DsMaAoxI8P8HAQ


It only needs those CFM requirements for a few seconds. My 6gal 1HP compressor has no trouble keeping up.
 

JTG

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Are you the only one in the house? The reason I asked is oilless compressors are LOUD. I had one for years and my wife hated it. When it blew a rod I replaced it with a used oiled compressor and it's much quieter.
 

jcthorne

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Are you the only one in the house? The reason I asked is oilless compressors are LOUD. I had one for years and my wife hated it. When it blew a rod I replaced it with a used oiled compressor and it's much quieter.

Not when they are designed properly. Mine is only 60db. So quiet you can hold a conversation standing right next to it. One has to look at the specs, not just if its oiled or oilless. Designs and materials have come a long way.
 

bagged150

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That unit produces only 5.1 cfm at 90 psi. Far below what the OP stated he needs.



I must be reading something different but I did not see anywhere where he started an air pressure requirement. He did happen to talk about the same exact compressor that I have in his original post.


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LX-Markham

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I've got my air lines regulated at 90 psi, and it operates the bridge jack no problem. It does use a lot of air, but only for the 10 seconds that it takes to lift the car. Almost any compressor with a half decent tank will keep up with that.

For your first compressor and limited use, any of the ones the OP listed are fine.

If it were me though, I would try and find an oiled compressor. Most oiless ones are LOUD, except maybe some of the tiny nailer compressors. My DeWalt 1 gal. is pretty quiet.
 
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DerStig

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The husky 175 psi unit I mentioned is only 78dB. Thats not too loud and certainly not significantly louder than the IR unit that costs 2.5 more (and only provides 135 psi).

I am all for buying the best and buying it once but this is one of those things I just cannot justify going from $267 compressor to $699 one because of brand name and oilled yet its capacity is 25% less.

I dont think this husky is 85-90dB loud like some other oilless units.

I looked at 100 mile radius in craigslist and the only used 30 gal compressor I could find was a Kobalt which is the same thing as Husky.

I did find 60 gal units in 3-5HP range but a) they are so huge i dont think i can transport them and more importantly b) they all use 240v which I dont have and will cost me $750 to get it to my garage.
 
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DerStig

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I've got my air lines regulated at 90 psi, and it operates the bridge jack no problem. It does use a lot of air, but only for the 10 seconds that it takes to lift the car. Almost any compressor with a half decent tank will keep up with that.

For your first compressor and limited use, any of the ones the OP listed are fine.

If it were me though, I would try and find an oiled compressor. Most oiless ones are LOUD, except maybe some of the tiny nailer compressors. My DeWalt 1 gal. is pretty quiet.

The cheapest oilled compressor with 150 psi and 30 gal is $490. Its only "3 db" quieter and has 15% less capacity. I cannot justify spending almost double for 3db, I dont if you could justify it:)
 

dave*99

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I must be reading something different but I did not see anywhere where he started an air pressure requirement. He did happen to talk about the same exact compressor that I have in his original post.


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In post #19, the OP said:

The rolling jack rj45 requires a lot of air and I think its high psi that will get its going rather than CFM. I think I need at least 150psi the user manual says 10-20cfm at 125 psi. The higher the psi and the tank size better it will be.
 

dave*99

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The cheapest oilled compressor with 150 psi and 30 gal is $490. Its only "3 db" quieter and has 15% less capacity. I cannot justify spending almost double for 3db, I dont if you could justify it:)

I think you are missing an important point. The oil lubricated compressor will last a lifetime. And if you ever upgrade, it will have resale value far beyond what the oil-less compressor will have. I have disassembled a number of broken, worn out oil-less compressors. Many use a Teflon piston ring on a lightweight piston.

After my hardly used Campbell Hausfeld 2 gallon oil less compressor failed, I disassembled it. I found a replacement motor-compressor available for $20 on ebay. After looking at what was inside, I threw the whole thing in the trash. Not worth fixing it.

I had only used this unit for 2 years and only to inflate bicycle tires and bang in a few staples. So here is the reality: I spent $70 for the CH compressor that landed in the trash and another $200 for the Makita MAC700 that replaced it. Lesson learned.

As others have stated here, you do not need more than 100PSI to run your jack.
 
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