Compressor system

[manoweb]

Hi, after much research on the forums and the Internet in general, and the fact I managed to get a discount, I got the 5HP 2-stage 60gal compressor from HF. I was able to haul it home in the back of my truck and unload it in the garage.

I already own a 1/2" impact wrench that is one of the tools I will be using first. Other tools that will have an immediate usage include an air ratchet and tire chuck. In the future, I plan to sand blast and paint.

But now, it's a bit overwhelming, as the compressor comes simply with its tank and a 1/2" NPT thread hole. Today I will be buying the necessary for the electrical connection, the panel is very close so few feet of 8AWG wires will be enough.

After that, can I have some advice from compressor owners? Apparently my compressor cycles between 120 and 165 PSI, and the impact wrench works at 90PSI, so I'll need a regulator? I'll need about 50ft of hose to reach around; probably a ball valve on the tank? The vast multitude of adapters, different diameters, connectors is overwhelming me Could somebody suggest a "buy list" to allow me start wrenching? Thanks!

 

[kenfain]

Just getting started is easy. It's plumbing a complete system that's tough. First thing I'd do is get the unit to it's permanent spot. Then set up a proper drain, not the **** that comes with most of these units. You'll need to have a quality ball valve there. At least enough pipe to bring it out from under the tank, for easy access. If it's not easy, you won't drain it enough. Personally I'd recommend a quality, automatic drain, but that's just me,ymmv. Next you'll need a ball valve, at the tanks output. Next up, is a flexible hose, I use a hydraulic hose to get to a nearby hard mounting point. Then you'll need a pressure regulator. Next i'd use a hose whip to take me to the hose reel, which can be mounted temporarily at the closest mounting spot. This set up is temporary, because it does not address the condensed water in the air, so I'd plumb the whole thing to drain back into the compressor for now. But you'll still get some water. Proper plumbing of the appropriate air line material, is essential to totally eliminate water issues. But I'd suggest taking small steps on a big plumbing project like air lines. But I would start with the basics like drainage, and air shut off. Buy quality, everywhere you can, especially on stuff you put your hands on a lot. And remember no PVC air lines.
Well that should get you using this compressor. In my mind, that's the best way. You'll be able to see how the whole thing will work best for your situation. Who knows, you might find that you want to move things around to the other side of the garage. Maybe move the unit to a nearby corner, so it can be walled in, to minimize noise. So I'd not mount it to the floor just yet.

 

[manoweb]

Well I plan to build a real garage as a detached unit - but I bought this compressor now because I still need to perform some jobs. The compressor is still bolted to its pallet and I think I might try it out like this for now.

I'll check the drain part, I know the current valve is fairly low to the ground making it a bit more complicated to access it.

The compressor tank has a 1/2" NPT hole and as you said, I should install a ball valve. Is any suitable brass ball valve I can find at Home Depot OK for this application? With a ball valve I could at least start the compressor and see it reaches the nominal pressure within the expected time etc

 

[manoweb]

Also: is a regulator necessary for tools like an impact wrench or tire inflator?

 

[kenfain]

Yes, get the brass ball valves from the plumbing section. Use brass tubing from the gas section of plumbing. It's not a crime to mix metals, but I'd stick with brass for all I suggested. For the drain use a street ell, then plumb out to the valve, where there's easy access. As far as the pallet, some people leave em long term.
Your gonna want a regulator for air tools, really anything needs it,since most things only need about ninety psi. The compressor makes lots more than that, let it make it's maximum, probably 175 psi. A compressor needs to run, long and hot is okay. The output line on the pump has a heat diffuser for a reason. It gets really hot. That's not only normal, it's required to keep condensation from forming in the pump crankcase. Look for a milky white oil, means it's not working enough. Bad for the pump. So make sure it gets broke in proper. Then from now on make sure it gets good n hot often. Just to be clear, if you put it in an enclosure, it's probably a good idea to ventilate, even use a fan. It's the crankcase that needs the heat, not the head. It doesn't need any help getting hot.

 

[manoweb]

Thanks. I asked about the regulator for two reasons:

- if installed before a 50' hose, the pressure at the end of the hose will be probably much lower. I am not planning to spray paint just yet, so I was asking to make sure
- installing a regulator is more work in terms of components I have to source. In particular I cannot easily find short runs (3-5ft) of hose with the proper fittings

 

[kenfain]

Gonna likely have more than one regulator before it's over. For now, you can adjust the regulator pressure up, to compensate for any drop. You just don't want to have full 175 psi going out through the hose, much less to the tools. So buy a good IR at Northern tool, or Craigslist. Any good brand will do.

 

[kenfain]

Air output hose and the ball valve need to be as large as possible. Don't use any reducing bushings coming out to the regulator. You want as much air as possible, no bottlenecks in the air system. You can get hydraulic hose any size for cheap. Cut to length with fittings n all, at lots of hydraulic hose places.
Use teflon tape, or pipe joint compound. I use the tape, then dish soap n water in a spray bottle. Check all plumbing for leaks.

 

[manoweb]

OK I went to HD and I bought the electrical and started the plumbing. My compressor's tank has a 1/2" output; I bought a 1/2" male to male ****** and a 1/2" ball valve. Are you suggesting maybe I should have gotten a 1/2" -> 3/4" ****** and a 3/4" ball valve?

 

[kenfain]

OK I went to HD and I bought the electrical and started the plumbing. My compressor's tank has a 1/2" output; I bought a 1/2" male to male ****** and a 1/2" ball valve. Are you suggesting maybe I should have gotten a 1/2" -> 3/4" ****** and a 3/4" ball valve?

I would, for the sake of not having to be concerned with I.D. of valves and *******. But the unit was likely designed for 1/2 inch. When dealing with air bigger is better. So you can do either, but you'll have less chance of restrictions, with the bigger size. I think you'll want to use 3/4, though. At least till the regulator for now. Then that'll be 3/4 also.

 

[firebox40dash5]

My shop compressor cuts in at 110psi and out at 150psi. Never had a regulator on it, never wanted one, never caused an issue. Good luck finding a regulator that would keep up with the air demands of a loaded impact gun, you might as well just make friends with your breaker bar. If you're that worried about it, I'd crank the cut-out down to something a tad more reasonable before I'd regulate it. Your compressor is going to run faster and more efficient below max pressure anyway, and the motor will probably thank you if you knock it down to ~150.

For short hoses, check Amazon. I got a few yellow Goodyear 1/2" jumper hoses last year, IIRC they were like $12 a pop.

We run everything through a Sharpe 8130 drier, and that seems to work pretty damn well now that I got it away from the tank outlet, you want a good run to it to let the air cool and moisture condense out. I don't think I've gotten more than a couple drops from the closest drop drain since I got ~10' of hose between the tank and it. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I have the regulator off an 880A setup laying around, let me know if you want it and it's yours.

 

[kenfain]

150 psi straight up to a cheap Chinese air chuck, that's just asking for trouble. Don't take my word for anything, Google it. See what the results of too much air pressure does to tools. Now having said that, I'll say we all choose our own shortcuts. Man is asking for the right way, he ought to at least know where he's cuttin corners. Make his own choices. The right way, gives the most satisfaction, versus money spent. But the money .... sometimes there's the rub.

 

[vonhef]

My shop compressor cuts in at 110psi and out at 150psi. Never had a regulator on it, never wanted one, never caused an issue. Good luck finding a regulator that would keep up with the air demands of a loaded impact gun, you might as well just make friends with your breaker bar...

I use a regulator set a 95 psi and it maintains that pressure perfectly with all my air tools. The scfm rating of the regulator I am using is somewhere around 3-4 times higher than the scfm output of my compressor so maintaining it's set point is no problem.

Every air tool I have ever purchased has a recommended operating pressure of 90 psi.
I would be concerned with shorter air tool life or even damage by operating much above that pressure.



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[firebox40dash5]

I use a regulator set a 95 psi and it maintains that pressure perfectly with all my air tools. The scfm rating of the regulator I am using is somewhere around 3-4 times higher than the scfm output of my compressor so maintaining it's set point is no problem.

Every air tool I have ever purchased has a recommended operating pressure of 90 psi.
I would be concerned with shorter air tool life or even damage by operating much above that pressure.



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Well, I do it about 6 days a week, and it works just fine.

I've got 80+ gallons of air behind my hose, at the same pressure. If you've got a regulator, you've got 0 gallons at the same pressure.

I don't use cheap Chinese air anything, but even when I have, it's never caused a problem.

 

[kenfain]

Well, I do it about 6 days a week, and it works just fine.

I've got 80+ gallons of air behind my hose, at the same pressure. If you've got a regulator, you've got 0 gallons at the same pressure.

I don't use cheap Chinese air anything, but even when I have, it's never caused a problem.

I don't doubt what your saying, but right on the package of that made in China air chuck, it says may burst at higher than 90 psi. Think 150 psi, and it slipped out of your hand, off the work bench, whatever. And hit the concrete = burst. Genuine made in China shrapnel. Now I hear what your saying, my air chuck is eighty year old brass, but that don't make it right. Also I believe it's been discussed to death, that excessive pressure shortens air tool life. Why chance it, regulators really aren't expensive.

 

[manoweb]

The main issue is not the regulator price - but the fact that I have 50ft of 3/8" hose and several connectors and adapters in between, some of which will go down to 1/4" and the result *may* be that, at the end, because of that I will end up having a pressure that is just enough the one needed for the tool. My other question becomes, with a regulator, how can I estimate how much to add to the pressure to make sure I get 90PSI at the tool?

 

[firebox40dash5]

I don't doubt what your saying, but right on the package of that made in China air chuck, it says may burst at higher than 90 psi. Think 150 psi, and it slipped out of your hand, off the work bench, whatever. And hit the concrete = burst. Genuine made in China shrapnel. Now I hear what your saying, my air chuck is eighty year old brass, but that don't make it right. Also I believe it's been discussed to death, that excessive pressure shortens air tool life. Why chance it, regulators really aren't expensive.

If you've got a package that states "may burst at higher than 90 psi" I wanna see it... that's some janky **** if it's rated at its burst pressure, should be AT LEAST 2:1.

Regulators aren't expensive, you're right. A regulator that can keep up with a good impact gun and not restrict flow OTOH, is not gonna be cheap. I want my impacts to have as much power as I can get... not throttle them to 90psi static, and then get maybe 50-60psi when I'm trying to hammer on a fastener. I already have to use my 3/4" gun more than I care to.

We have a couple things at the shop that we don't overpressurize, and they've got regs on them. If I actually needed just 90-100psi, I'd put a good regulator on the wall with its own drop, and use that when I needed to... otherwise, I prefer full pressure.

 

[kenfain]

The main issue is not the regulator price - but the fact that I have 50ft of 3/8" hose and several connectors and adapters in between, some of which will go down to 1/4" and the result *may* be that, at the end, because of that I will end up having a pressure that is just enough the one needed for the tool. My other question becomes, with a regulator, how can I estimate how much to add to the pressure to make sure I get 90PSI at the tool?

See this is why you want big fittings, so you don't have the flow necked down. Then the regulator works like it's supposed to. If you have any 1/4 in. Inline on this system, you could still turn up the pressure, but it'd be guesswork as to how much would equal 90 psi at the tool. You'd have to go by feel. It'd be better to just run a airline straight from the tank. That way you'd know exactly what's what.

 

[kenfain]

If you've got a package that states "may burst at higher than 90 psi" I wanna see it... that's some janky **** if it's rated at its burst pressure, should be AT LEAST 2:1.

Regulators aren't expensive, you're right. A regulator that can keep up with a good impact gun and not restrict flow OTOH, is not gonna be cheap. I want my impacts to have as much power as I can get... not throttle them to 90psi static, and then get maybe 50-60psi when I'm trying to hammer on a fastener. I already have to use my 3/4" gun more than I care to.

We have a couple things at the shop that we don't overpressurize, and they've got regs on them. If I actually needed just 90-100psi, I'd put a good regulator on the wall with its own drop, and use that when I needed to... otherwise, I prefer full pressure.

You said 150 not me. The package says dont exceed 90 psi. I'm saying at your 150 there could be trouble.
As far as a regulator goes, it regulates psi. Not cfm. So it'll still give all 80 gallons just at a set limit on psi. If your suggesting otherwise, your'e misinformed.

 

[firebox40dash5]

See this is why you want big fittings, so you don't have the flow necked down. Then the regulator works like it's supposed to. If you have any 1/4 in. Inline on this system, you could still turn up the pressure, but it'd be guesswork as to how much would equal 90 psi at the tool. You'd have to go by feel. It'd be better to just run a airline straight from the tank. That way you'd know exactly what's what.

Yep, neck down as little as possible, and as close to your drops as possible.

I rigged our shop air together using pretty much what I had on hand when we moved in. I'm talking scraps of 3/8" hose with barb fittings and hose clamps. That was how I got from the tank to the filter/drier to the wall. I didn't really notice it, until I got my 3/4" impact, and it just flat fell on its face when you pulled the trigger. I swapped everything, using the biggest ball valve practical and keeping the hoses as large as possible. I think the smallest I have going into the pipes is now a 3/8" fitting, and that's out of the filter and adapted back up to 1/2". That and high-flow fittings made a HUGE difference. Shooting for 1/2" hose and fittings is money well spent. Just remember it's not the biggest deal if you have to neck down somewhere... just keep it short to minimize restriction.

You said 150 not me. The package says dont exceed 90 psi. I'm saying at your 150 there could be trouble.
As far as a regulator goes, it regulates psi. Not cfm. So it'll still give all 80 gallons just at a set limit on psi. If your suggesting otherwise, your'e misinformed.

Just about every air tool says don't exceed 90psi. Uhaul trailers say not to exceed 55mph too. MADD says you shouldn't drink more than 2 beers a week.

I know what a regulator does... but just like anything in the system, it can flow X cfm at Y psi. If you set a regulator to 90psi static, you're not going to get 90psi with the trigger squeezed, unless you get a beast of a reg. If you've got 175psi behind the regulator and you throttle it down to 90psi, then you're flow-limited to what the regulator will flow, and that's all you're getting downstream. You can have 80 gallons or 800 gallons, but if your regulator can't flow as much as the tool wants to use, the only thing it'll help is make it longer until the compressor kicks on.

I helped out a haunted house years back. Dude had a pretty standard "5hp" 60 gallon compressor, and had 24 pneumatic effects on 2 floors. He couldn't figure out why they were all slow as hell. It was plumbed with that 1/4" OD push-connect poly tubing... one line for each floor, daisy chained from one piece to the next. There was tons of air there and plenty of pressure, but it couldn't get where it needed to be worth a damn.

 

[Durka]

Compressor piping = Tool inlet x 3. General rule of thumb.

Those 1/2" bushings at the the tank SHOULD be 3/4" reducers. Unless you went with a somewhat cheap set-up. Then you either drill tap the bushing (there's usually no sealer on the bushing, -a silicon o-ring instead) or just replace the bushing.

Make sure you handle the moisture first...that's number 1 when plumbing one in.

 

[kenfain]

Yep, neck down as little as possible, and as close to your drops as possible.

I rigged our shop air together using pretty much what I had on hand when we moved in. I'm talking scraps of 3/8" hose with barb fittings and hose clamps. That was how I got from the tank to the filter/drier to the wall. I didn't really notice it, until I got my 3/4" impact, and it just flat fell on its face when you pulled the trigger. I swapped everything, using the biggest ball valve practical and keeping the hoses as large as possible. I think the smallest I have going into the pipes is now a 3/8" fitting, and that's out of the filter and adapted back up to 1/2". That and high-flow fittings made a HUGE difference. Shooting for 1/2" hose and fittings is money well spent. Just remember it's not the biggest deal if you have to neck down somewhere... just keep it short to minimize restriction.



Just about every air tool says don't exceed 90psi. Uhaul trailers say not to exceed 55mph too. MADD says you shouldn't drink more than 2 beers a week.

I know what a regulator does... but just like anything in the system, it can flow X cfm at Y psi. If you set a regulator to 90psi static, you're not going to get 90psi with the trigger squeezed, unless you get a beast of a reg. If you've got 175psi behind the regulator and you throttle it down to 90psi, then you're flow-limited to what the regulator will flow, and that's all you're getting downstream. You can have 80 gallons or 800 gallons, but if your regulator can't flow as much as the tool wants to use, the only thing it'll help is make it longer until the compressor kicks on.

I helped out a haunted house years back. Dude had a pretty standard "5hp" 60 gallon compressor, and had 24 pneumatic effects on 2 floors. He couldn't figure out why they were all slow as hell. It was plumbed with that 1/4" OD push-connect poly tubing... one line for each floor, daisy chained from one piece to the next. There was tons of air there and plenty of pressure, but it couldn't get where it needed to be worth a damn.

Nice segway from relevant subject to haunted house. I've never seen a full size, let's say 3/8 much less 1/2 inch regulator that couldn't keep up with the full capacity of even the largest capacity quick connect. But let's say you're right and all the engineers, professional air compressor installers, what have you, and me, we're all wrong. I can live with being cautious, with giving advice on a forum. Because I assure you these hokey China made accessories are out there. And to be forewarned is a good thing.

 

[manoweb]

OK I did some research for the "jumper" hose but even on Amazon I did not really find out anything. The best I've found on the Internet so far is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ft-15-ft-x-38-in-rubber-air-hose-remnant-60356.html
That apparently comes often in a 10ft length. I'd love to have something shorter...

 

[manoweb]

So it seems the impact wrench manual says the nominal operating pressure is 90PSI, but it says not to connect to a system with more than 200PSI. I am not saying it is right to connect it "up to" 200PSI, I am just wondering.

 

[kenfain]

OK I did some research for the "jumper" hose but even on Amazon I did not really find out anything. The best I've found on the Internet so far is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ft-15-ft-x-38-in-rubber-air-hose-remnant-60356.html
That apparently comes often in a 10ft length. I'd love to have something shorter...

Like I said, use hydraulic hose. It comes in all diameter, you decide which is best to fit what you've got. In this case 3/4. They custom cut to length. They crimp on the ends to match your fittings. Probably looking at twenty to thirty bucks, top. Just go to a hydraulic hose shop. Me, I found what I needed at Northern, pre made, in the hydraulic section. They have liquid filled gauges pretty cheap. Liquid filled just looks cool in this application. No real need, but they're cheap.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I really don't get this obsession with hokey Chinese ****. If it's dangerous, don't use it... problem solved!

It's like saying you always cook the steaks you buy off the white truck that drives around extra-well so you don't get food poisoning.

You can worry about other people buying Chinese **** and throttle your air system so theirs doesn't blow up. I'll enjoy my excellent air tool performance.

Jumper hoses:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038M50MK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kenfain]

You can worry about other people buying Chinese **** and throttle your air system so theirs doesn't blow up. I'll enjoy my excellent air tool performance.

Jumper hoses:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038M50MK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Running a nut at 150 psi? That's probably why you use your 3/4 air impact " all too often " . Yes it'll give good performance, no doubt about it. I've been wrenching for over forty years, don't recall needing a 3/4 impact on a passenger vehicle. Although there's been a few times I used a breaker bar. Oh well, to each his own.

 

[Durka]

So it seems the impact wrench manual says the nominal operating pressure is 90PSI, but it says not to connect to a system with more than 200PSI. I am not saying it is right to connect it "up to" 200PSI, I am just wondering.

What?

The more pressure the better (usually 175 psi max) at the header or behind the regulator. Regulator intake max is what you need to watch. A good diaphragm reg is the best and fairly cheap if you look around. The 3/4" Parker/WATTS is a good one with 300 psi max. Ebay probably has a few, 60 -100 bucks.

But like I said before, handle that moisture first.

 

[manoweb]

Durka, are you suggesting I drill the 1/2" hole I have in the compressor tank to make it 3/4"?

 

[firebox40dash5]

Running a nut at 150 psi? That's probably why you use your 3/4 air impact " all too often " . Yes it'll give good performance, no doubt about it. I've been wrenching for over forty years, don't recall needing a 3/4 impact on a passenger vehicle. Although there's been a few times I used a breaker bar. Oh well, to each his own.

I'm not sure I know what you're talking about, and I think that makes 2 of us.

If you're trying to imply my impacts overtighten ****... have you met my good friend Rusty? He's a pretty ubiquitous guy, from about VA north, and from the Atlantic to the Rockies. I have yet to need my 3/4" gun to remove something I put on. Hell, besides wheels (with torque sticks) I rarely use my 1/2" gun for reassembly. It's for getting **** apart for the most part. I use ratchets or one of my 3/8" guns to put 99% of things back together.

 

[manoweb]

I am in California (Bay Area) and generally do not have major rust issues even for metallic parts I leave outside. Is anybody familiar with how bad the compressor water condensation issues are in this part of the country?

 

[shooting4life]

Durka, are you suggesting I drill the 1/2" hole I have in the compressor tank to make it 3/4"?

I would not do that, 1/2 will be fine and flow all the air that you are going to really need. You are not going to be running a shop with multiple users on the air lines. You can only use one air tool at a time.

For the flex line, I just used a piece of the flexible steel mesh water pipe they sell for hot water heaters at HD. They are cheap, come in multiple sizes and easy to install. I have not had an issue with any leaks.

Also, for the drain valve, get a barbed fitting and some 3/8 plastic hose for the end of the ball valve. That way when you drain your tank you can put the hose outside or in a contain and catch the water easily.

 

[Durka]

Durka, are you suggesting I drill the 1/2" hole I have in the compressor tank to make it 3/4"?

Right, - IF your equipped. And if you have no other choice. Check the bushing first. - Like I said there's usually a reducer fitting installed in it. Just remove the reducer and it converts to 3/4". Just like that. The IR's, Quincys,Champions, SB's all have these bushings standard. The better compressors are 3/4" period, since 3/4" will achieve optimum performance.

Just run the standard Flex, -

View media item 40120

 

[Durka]

Btw , there's quite a few recent threads explaining all this. Older threads as well.

 

[manoweb]

Durka, shooting4life I'll take a picture and publish it tonight. The hole is 1/2" threaded in the hexagonal piece, there are no reducers.

 

[Durka]

50' of 3/8 hose will kill your pressure. Now a days they have 1/2" ID hose that is just as light or lighter than 3/8.

If you have to run 50'. Use 1/2" (30' recommended) then make absolutely sure you use High Flow fittings at the tool (or both ends depending upon your set up) Brass, they're 76 cents apiece, the better plated steel ends (males) are about a buck more. These cheap little fittings double your volume/flow.

The light hoses are made by,

Goodyear (the F5 hose), -only in blue.
Speedaire (Legacy in Speedaire green)
Legacy (Lime Green)

The F5 is Goodyears newest innovation...Someone finally smoked Legacy lol.

 

[Durka]

Durka, shooting4life I'll take a picture and publish it tonight. The hole is 1/2" threaded in the hexagonal piece, there are no reducers.

That would be better. I'm not familiar w/Harbor Freight compressors.

 

[kenfain]

I'm not sure I know what you're talking about, and I think that makes 2 of us.

If you're trying to imply my impacts overtighten ****... have you met my good friend Rusty? He's a pretty ubiquitous guy, from about VA north, and from the Atlantic to the Rockies. I have yet to need my 3/4" gun to remove something I put on. Hell, besides wheels (with torque sticks) I rarely use my 1/2" gun for reassembly. It's for getting **** apart for the most part. I use ratchets or one of my 3/8" guns to put 99% of things back together.

Clicked on this thread to try to be of some help to a brother. To the op, I sincerely hope I was helpful. But I won't be baited into an argument about something as ridiculous as this. Good luck!
Unsubscribe

 

[vonhef]

Below is a link to the regulator I use. It is a 1/2" that is rated up to 70 scfm. This will run any 1/2" drive impact I have researched.... But if you need a higher flow than this, they also sell a 3/4" regulator.
http://www.tptools.com/1and2-Regulator-and-Water-Separator,92.html?b=d*8088




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[Durka]

Below is a link to the regulator I use. It is a 1/2" that is rated up to 70 scfm. This will run any 1/2" drive impact I have researched.... But if you need a higher flow than this, they also sell a 3/4" regulator.
http://www.tptools.com/1and2-Regulator-and-Water-Separator,92.html?b=d*8088




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That's a MP, made not far away from here, - Detroit. I did try that exact same regulator x 3/4 w/red knob), well almost. The block was cracked on one side so I had to send it back to TP. I didn't get a replacement because that knob deal on top was too difficult to adjust. They refunded me and sent another to try, -buy if I like. That was a Master Pneumatic R75-4HT 1/2". It has the T-bar adjustment handle. That little thing is good to 300 psi @ the inlet/ 160 psi at the exit. Still a little difficult to adjust, they use heavy springs. I'm still using it though. It's only 1/2" and it's fairly restrictive, -so I use it on a blow/trim nailer station.

View media item 40363
The paint station is 100% high flow, -since I'm only pushing 15.9 cfms. So 3/4" filtration and diaphragm regulation. Actually, it's the do just about anything station lol, -

View media item 40364